The eccentric Creperie Quartier d’été, with equally eccentric and delicious crepes click to enlargeBy now you’ve probably gathered we like it at Port La Forêt. So much so, that instead of moving on after two days we’re staying until next Monday or thereabouts.
Why are we staying on?
So many reasons.
The village (or is it a tiny town?) of La Forêt-Fouesnant is a lovely half mile walk away around a lake. Counter-clockwise, you walk by the forest; clockwise, you walk on the small road by lovely houses and the Crêperie Quartier d’été with its wonderfully eccentric owner just waiting to delight you with his crêpes and Fouesnant cidre served Breton style in pottery cups.
Jazz on the band stand
Behind our pontoon and hidden by trees is an old fashioned bandstand. Two days ago, we heard a small jazz band practising. I went to investigate – with my camera. The four musicians played trumpet, bass guitar, banjo and sax and rather than mind me taking pics they asked me to come on stage to take more!Members of the Cornouaille Jazz Band were practising on the bandstand ready for Sunday’s concert (lick to enlarge)If you’ve seen the film Chocolat with Johnny Depp the type of jazz they were playing was very similar to that played by the River Rats – syncopated, catchy, innocent and fun.
I learned they were some of the members of the Cornouaille Jazz Band, practising for Sunday’s 4pm concert and they insisted I returned to take even more photos! I will, but I must learn how to take good pics which have a strong backlight without using flash. Back to the new camera’s manual.
La Forêt-Fouesnant’s Boulangerie
Now here’s a treat. The Boulangerie is also a Patisserie and a Chocolaterie, with chefs that delight in precision cooking. It’s hard not putting on weight just by looking.
La Forêt-Fouesnant’s École des Chefs
Would you believe there’s a Chef School in La Forêt-Fouesnant, specialising in crêpes? We were only just saying how we’d love to learn how to make buck wheat crêpes (galettes de blé noir) the way Monsieur Quartier d’été makes them, so thin and lacy. Maybe, just maybe, we’ll sign up for a course….
So Play d’eau will be staying for the next few days. An added bonus is that the sun is out and forecast to stay out. Good call.
Piers and Lin
from the Saloon of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
The chocolates made by the Chocolatiere look so gorgeous click to enlarge
…and there were more…. click to enlarge
The cakes were glistening so seductively click to enlarge
The west Brittany coast is strewn with reefs, rocks and lighthouses click to enlargeWith the sun daring to make one of her rare but welcome appearances during the summer months, Play d’eau and ship’s company waved au revoir to the small, unspoiled town of Audierne.
Audierne may not have the finest of marinas but it’s ‘real’. Wi-Fi may only be available from a bar on the quay front provided you keep drinking Cidre Pression (quel dommage), but when you have fresh croissants and baguettes and fresh local vegetables and fish only 200m away in the small covered market, does it really matter?
The nav plan
The plan was to leave Audierne as the tide fell and enter Port La Forêt as the tide rose again without , timing both so we didn’t fall foul of the sand bars at the entrances to both ports. It worked. Bringing his catch home, a fisherman proudly displays a fine moustache click to enlarge
Again, the sea was kind to us, keeping wonderfully flat and calm all the way with a wind never reaching more than a 4 knot NW’ly. Perfection for Play d’eau, not for yachts.
Port La Forêt
The first time we visited Port La Forêt was three years ago. We loved it then and we still love it.
As the piggy in the middle between Benodet and Concarneau, Port La Forêt tends to be bypassed by visitors. Such a shame since it’s a quiet yet vibrant marina with facilities way beyond the norm.
The France-Finistère training centre for the Figaro and 60′ single-hull races is based at Port La Forêt and some of the pontoons are especially wide for these single and multi-hull racing yachts.
Tecky details
A delight to behold click to enlarge0933hrs FST – Departed Audierne
1523hrs FST – Port La Forêt
Planned distance – 38.1nm
Longest leg – 13.0nm, Audierne to Men Hir on the Pointe de Penmarc’h peninsula
Tech problems – minor, annoying issues with the nav gear requiring investigation.
Piers and Lin
from the Pilot House of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
Macif, one of the 60′ racing mono-hulls based at Port la Forêt with its huge mast click to enlarge
Looks like half the boat’s been cut off click to enlarge
A giant’s cat’s cradle for kids to climb in the play area click to enlarge
The Saveol 60′ racing mono-hull, one of many based at Port La Forêt click to enlarge
A Caravelle sailing vessel. There were 100 of these 60 tonners at Audierne (click to enlarge)We had no idea of the importance of Audierne and the sea – read on…
XVIth and XVIIth centuries
During the late XVIth and early XVIIth centuries, Audierne’s Breton sailors became known for their coastal navigation skills creating a commercial industry of almost a hundred 60 ton ‘Carvelle’ sailing vessels, all based in Audierne.
Merchants from all over Europe would hire these Carvelles, confident the crews with their knowledge of the narrow Breton channels would carry their goods safely.
The fortunes made by Audierne ship owners can be seen in the more opulent houses which remain to this day.
XVIIth and XVIIIth centuries
One of the magnificent houses built by an Audierne ship owner (click to enlarge)Later in the XVIIth century, French monarchy became involved in many wars hindering Audierne’s trade, and by the end of the XVIIIth century competition from the English and Dutch further diminished trade.
XIXth century
A maritime resurgence came in the XIXth century when sardine fishing became the new trade, growing to over 500 vessels supplying 20 canning factories, all based in Audierne.
Today
Today, there are no cargo vessels and no sardines and the number of fishing vessels has reduced considerably.
However, Audierne has diversified into shell fish, both farmed and fished and has a large processing plant standing halfway along the estuary. The output is huge and Audierne is now a major supplier throughout France of lobster, crayfish, scallops, brown and spider crab and langoustine.Audierne’s shell fish processing plant (click to enlarge)Piers
from the Saloon of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
Squash and Ginger soup ready to be devoured click to enlarge
The clue to this beautiful soup lies in its simplicity and flavour maximising. Although the amount of ginger may sound excessive, I assure you it isn’t. It’s just gorgeous.
Squash, Ginger, and vegetable stock click to enlarge
You will need
Saucepan
Hand-held or small stand-alone liquidiser
Cheese grater or a coarse Microplane
Bowl
Making the Squash and Ginger soup
Slice the squash into 2cm ‘wheels’. Cut the skin off, and, using a teaspoon, remove all traces of seeds and membrane.
Using the same teaspoon, use the edge to scrape the skin off the ginger.
Cut the squash wheels into 2cm x 1cm pieces.
The squash cut into 2cm wheels click to enlarge
Slice the ginger thinly, or grate it if you’ve kept it in the freezer. (Note: keeping peeled ginger in the freezer is a really good idea. It keeps for ages and can be grated easily whilst frozen)
Melt 150gm of butter in a large pan, add the squash and ginger and stir with a wooden spoon to ensure everything is covered with butter.
Cover the pan and cook gently for 10 minutes, stirring every two minutes to keep everything covered in butter.
After these ten minutes are up, add just enough stock to cover the squash and cook until the squash is just soft.
Remove the pan from the heat and allow it to cool down a bit before liquidising really well. If it’s too thick, add some more stock or fresh milk. Provided you’ve liquidised it well there’s no need to sieve this soup.
Serving the Squash and Ginger soup
The Squash and Ginger, basted with butter, before the stock is added click to enlarge
Pour the soup into a clean pan and reheat – do not boil – and add the rest of the butter. Stir well, adding salt to taste. (Note: don’t add pepper since it’s black specs will detract from the look of the soup)
Pour into warm bowls.
Place a small dollop (a Play d’eau technical term) of crème fraiche on the top of each serving and a small sprinkling of finely chopped coriander.
Each person should have six Soldier Croutons.
Additional touches
Once liquidised, allow the soup to develop its flavour in the fridge for 24hrs – if you can wait that long!
Drizzle some Truffle Oil on each serving before adding the coriander. Brings a earthy depth
This soup is also great as an Amuse Bouche, served either hot or cold without the croutons. Keeps well in the freezer.
So, so simple, yet so, so beautiful.
Piers and Lin
from the Galley of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
These are so much more fun than the usual square croutons, and so simple to make. Crouton soldiers, golden brown click to enlarge
For the Crouton Soldiers
1 slice of bread/person
1 tbsp olive oil and 1 tbsp sesame oil (enough for 18 crouton soldiers)
Kitchen paper
Making the Crouton Soldiers
Carefully cut the sliced bread into 8cm x 2cm strips.
Mix the oils, and sprinkle onto both sides of the crouton soldiers.
Tip – we mix the oils since sesame oil on its own can easily burn at a low temperature.
Warm a frying pan over a medium heat and add the crouton soldiers. After a minute, turn them over. You are looking for a lovely golden brown on both sides.
When they’re done, lift them out and place them on kitchen paper to absorb any surplus oil.
Crunchy and gorgeous.
Ensure no one is about when you make them – they’ll disappear without trace if you aren’t watching like a hawk!
Piers and Lin
From the Galley of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
Cornish sea salt. Until we tried this we hadn’t tasted real salt. click to enlargeThis post is to list the ingredients we’ve found to be best of breed. As time allows, we’ll be adding more.
Salt
From Table to Maldon to Pink Himalayan – which salt for you?
Our first ‘salt revelation’ came when we were shown that weight for weight, you have considerably more salt by quantity if you use an unprocessed sea salt rather than a free running, chemically enhanced table salt.
Our second ‘salt revelation’ was realising there were many different real salts: Maldon, Pink Himalayan, Cornish, Welsh coastal, and the list goes on and on.
So, we lined up over a dozen salts and tried them, judging each for its salty taste and saltiness strength factor.
Burford Brown eggs with their dark orange, luscious tasting yolks click to enlargeCutting to the chase, Cornish Sea Salt harvested straight from the Atlantic at the Lizard peninsula won by miles. A beautifully pure salt taste with a high salt factor meaning you use less to achieve the same saltiness.
Sadly, there’s no salt from Guernsey – maybe there’s a business to be had?
Cornish Sea Salt is available from some of the major supermarkets such as Tesco and Waitrose.
Eggs
Now this is something we just stumbled on without thinking. A ‘Doh!’ moment.
If we needed eggs, it was simply a question of size – small, medium or large.
One day, the only eggs left on supermarket’s shelf were from Cotswold Old Leg Bar hens. Opening the box to check them, the eggs were smaller than usual, but more surprisingly the shells were blue – not the normal brown or white!Maille raspberry flavoured vinegar click to enlargeLater, when we came to use them, the yolks were such a deep orange colour, and even better, when we came to eat them, the depth of flavour was so much more intense.
This led us to try other types, and the only other that’s a challenger is a Burford Brown. Taste-wise the same, size-wise it’s larger and with a dark brown shell.
So our recommendation is Burford Brown, followed by Cotswold Old Leg Bar.
Available from some supermarkets such as Sainsburys, Morrisons and Waitrose.
Vinegar
Having been served a mayonnaise that was so, so delicate and luscious, we were told it had been made with a Raspberry Vinegar. What a difference it made.
Since then, we have used Raspberry Vinegar for our own mayonnaise and vinaigrette dressings.
We’ve also tested various makes but there’s no doubt in our mind that Raspberry Vinegar from Maille takes the crown.
It can be difficult to find in the UK, but it’s everywhere in France, of course.
Olive oil
Colonna olive oil infused with organic lemons click to enlargeNow here’s an interesting one. From the many olive oils that range across the shelves, we’ve found a firm favourite which Lin uses in so many dishes.
Colonna Granverde.
This is a Sicilian extra virgin olive oil taken from the first cold pressing but with a difference.
Organic Sicilian lemons are added to the olives so both are pressed together producing an oil infused with a citrus zest and aroma. Perfect.
Available from Waitrose.
Guernsey Butter
Now here’s a delight you really must try.
Guernsey butter tastes of butter. Sounds crazy but just compare Guernsey butter with the butter you usually have and you’ll have one of those ‘Damascus Road’ experiences (well, almost) and you’ll realise what you’ve been missing!
Once you’ve opened a pack, there’s no need to keep it in the fridge. Just leave it out at room temperature. It keeps for weeks like that and is always at the right consistency to spread.
You can store Guernsey butter in the freezer for months if not years, and if you have the room I’d certainly recommend buying the June and July made butter since the cows will have been grazing on the fresh spring and summer grass.The butter of all butters. A rich, deep yellow butter, that restores faith in how butter should taste click to enlargeBoth salted and unsalted versions are made.
Do let us know how you get on with using Guernsey butter – hopefully you’ll never look back, and no, we don’t have shares in the Guernsey Dairy.
Waitrose usually stocks Guernsey butter.
Piers and Lin
from the Galley of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
La Vieille lighthouse 0.2nm NE of La Plate in the Raz de Sein click to enlargeWell, the wind screamed through yacht rigging and it poured with rain during the night but by 6am it had exhausted itself and become a reducing F4 with misty drizzle. By the time we cast off at 1113 it was a mere NW’ly 2. Perfect Play d’eau weather.
The nav plan
The ‘pinch point’ of the route was to be abeam La Plate WCM in the Raz de Sein at 1415 when the tide would be slack as it changed from north- to south-going. Given the wind was forecast NW F3, the passage through the Raz should pose no problems.
As soon as we emerged from the protection of the marina the wind began to pick up and for most of the journey to the Raz we had a WNW F5 with a 2m+ Atlantic swell on our beam causing Play d’eau to ‘loolop’ (a special Play d’eau technical term…) creating white caps on the coffee. The stabilisers worked hard.
Interestingly, the two hour journey to La Plate was more tiresome than the transit of the Raz itself. Maybe because the Raz was at slack, maybe it was the westerly wind. But it certainly wasn’t the tyrant it can be.
La Plate West Cardinal Marker in the Raz de Sein click to enlargePassing La Plate at 1412 (three minutes early: note to self – must try harder) we turned east towards Audierne with the wind and swell behind us. A gentle and lovely ride.
Audierne
Our AA guide tells us Audierne used to have a great fishing fleet travelling to Africa to catch tuna. Nowadays its fishermen concentrate on crustacia, lobsters, crab and langoustines.
Arriving
Arriving in Audierne was great fun. The marina is 1nm up the river, reached by a dredged channel which is narrow, and I mean narrow, passing some 25m from the breakwater and 15m from the fishing wharf – narrower than Beaucette Marina’s entrance! Concentrating on the leading lines marked by fore-aft chevrons, it worked perfectly.
Having called the harbour master, he had a hammerhead ready for us. Remembering we were there three years ago almost to the day, he was on the pontoon to welcome us back. A lovely touch.
Round the Finistère corner
The last few days have meant early rises and long hours. Now, well and truly around the Finistère corner, the pressure’s off and we can saunter south to warmer climes as and when we feel like it.
As I write, it’s overcast, raining and chilly. Lin’s just reminded me it’s mid-summer’s day tomorrow, and Christmas is only 6 months and five days away; forever the cheer-leader!This Gannet was swimming in the middle of the Raz de Sein with no concerns at all click to enlarge
Tecky details
1113hrs FST – Departed Camaret
1537hrs FST – Audierne
Planned distance – 30.5nm
Longest leg – 11.8nm, Basse de Lis SCM to La Plate WCM
Tech problems – nil
Piers and Lin
from the Pilot House of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
Message to Gary – given langoustines are fresh every day, we’re going to make Langoustines bisque!
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
The sun rises over a calm sea as Play ‘eau leaves L’aber wrac’h click to enlarge
Having rigged for ‘silent running’ (it was still night when we left) Play d’eau motored out of L’Aber Wrac’h marina and down the river bound for Camaret at 0430 to catch the best of slack tide whilst transiting the notorious Chenal du Four.
With almost no wind the seas were flat. Oily, glassy flat calm. Perfect for Play d’eau and her crew.
Nearing the Chenal, the seas remained spirit level flat although a N’ly wind had started to appear, sending occasional shivers of ripples across the surface.
Camaret or Audierne?
Arriving off Le Conquet a decision had to be made. Should we continue to Camaret or slow to 3.5kts to reach the even more notorious Raz de Sein at slack tide in five hours time?
By now the wind was a rising N F3 and the forecast was soon for a F4/5. The choice was to take the Raz in the forecast wind or wait for the forecast F3 in the morning. We chose the latter trusting the forecast was right. If it wasn’t, we’d be spending many days in Camaret waiting for the next weather/tide window. The strange water fitting which is apparently now a standard in many French marinas click to enlarge
Water, water everywhere, but not a drop to drink
Arriving in Camaret it was already blowing a strong F4. The marina was crowded with yachts waiting for elusive weather windows but we managed to squeeze into a space on the end of a pontoon giving us a metre between our stern and a yacht and our bow not quite overhanging into the channel.
Having connected shore power I went to hook our hose to the pontoon’s water supply. Looking for the tap all I found was something resembling a compressed air outlet. ‘Is this the water supply?’ I asked a British yacht. ‘Yes. Many French marinas have been upgrading their water outlets, and this fitting is now common.’ Hmmm.
We walked the mile into town to pay our dues to Le Capitainerie and ask where we could buy the fitting for our hose. With a Gallic shrug and a sound like ‘Pfff’, the words ‘Je sais pas’ completed the gesture.
A half mile further on found the Chandlery. More of a nautical gift shop than a ‘swindlery’. The only hose fittings they had were garden fittings. Maybe the Super-U?
Hose fittings or Lunch?
A perfect lunch, Pate de Campagne Echalotte and baguette. The Maille Framboise vinegar is only in the pic to show we found some at the Super-U; it’s not for adding to the pate! click to enlargeA half mile further on we found the Super-U. Again, no hose fittings. To compensate, we bought a large slice of Paté Campagne Echalote Fraiche for lunch to go with a Baguette. Perfect.
We also managed to find some Maille Raspberry Vinegar which we prize highly and which has proven impossible to find in Guernsey.
The storm?
By the time we returned to Play d’eau the wind had risen to a N’ly high F5 vindicating our call not to carry onto the Raz de Sein.
Let’s hope the wind has dies down as the forecasters predict, ready for noon departure tomorrow? We’ll see.
Tecky details
0515hrs FST – Departed L’aber wrac’h
0955hrs FST – Arrived Camaret
Planned distance – 36.4nm
Longest leg – 7.4nm
Tech problems – nil Makes you wonder what stories this old abandoned wooden trawler could tell Play d’eau over a beer click to enlargePiers and Lin
Piers and Lin
from the Pilot House of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
PS: Message for Hil – we’ll save some Framboise for you.
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
The orange brush stroke twixt sky and sea as Play d’eau left St Peter Port click to enlargeThe sea was calm as the sun woke from its night’s dreams to peek over Herm, creating an orange brushstroke between the grey sky and sea, as we motored out of St Peter Port. Such a contrast from the previous evening’s strong E’ly F5 blowing swell and white caps into the harbour the previous evening.
The eleven and a half hour sector from St Martin’s Point to Lizen van Ouest WCM (five miles due north of L’Aber Wrac’h but ten sea miles around the rocky coast) remained surprisingly calm with almost no Atlantic swell and only the occasional V-formation of gannets.
Taken by surprise
In the middle of the vast, peaceful open ocean, our solitary bubble was suddenly pierced. ‘Play d’eau, Play d’eau, Play d’eau, this is Still Calm, Ch16, over.’ I was being hailed by a 60’ East Bay (I think it was) which was closing on us at 21kts en route to Benodet. Perfect calm en route between St Peter Port and L’Aber Wrac’h click to enlargeIts Jersey owner had apparently bought a pair of Kahlenberg horns from Toby and had heard about Play d’eau.
Small world, aye?
The calm seas extended right through to L’Aber Wrac’h where we were able to cut corners close to the rocks and motor gently up river to the marina, finding a perfect spot to park just inside the wavebreak at 7.30pm French Summer Time.
Our first taste of France, 2013
Needing exercise, we jumped ship and walked to the Café du Port and had our first taste of France – a cold Pression. After thirteen hours of sailing (motoring!) it was just gorgeous.
It took great will power not to have another; we had to have supper and plan for our early morning departure for Camaret.Our first cold pression this year – hard not to order more…. click to enlargeBut whilst sitting at the bar, we found ourselves gently rocking.
We’d found our sea legs!
Tecky details
0519hrs BST – Departed St Peter Port
1812hrs BST – Arrived L’Aber Wrac’h
Planned distance – 105.4nm
Longest single leg – 92.7nm
Tech problems – nil
Piers and Lin
from the Pilot House of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
PS – Message for Dave and Gary – Restaurant Le Vioban is exactly where you said it would be. The menu looks luscious, so we’ll eat there on our return trip in a month or three…
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
Sunset at L’Aber Wrac’h click to enlarge
The wonderful sunset light across L’Aber Wrac’h’s marina click to enlarge
Play d’eau in St Peter Port, Guernsey at the start of our summer cruise around Brittany click to enlargeAt last!
After I don’t know how many weeks of staring at weather forecasts, the skies and sea states, we have started our summer cruise – just four days before mid-summer’s day.
Waiting had caused Cabin Fever to set in to the point it had almost become Cabin Rot. Endless delays had been caused by high winds and tracing the last of the gremlins in the new electronics.
But now it’s goodbye Cabin Fever, hello Brittany.
Summer Cruise Leg 1
So today we positioned Play d’eau from Beaucette Marina to St Peter Port to take advantage of catching the tide early tomorrow morning (18 June) for the 12 hour journey to L’Aber Wrac’h on the north west coast of Brittany.The St Peter Port water taxi fondly known as the ‘St Peter Port exocet missile’ click to enlargeThe next day (19 June) we plan to take the Chenal du Four and Raz de Sein bound for the pretty, little marina, at Audierne. After that, who knows?
When will we be back?
Our plans are to cruise the west coast of Brittany followed by the north coast as well. How long will we be away? Who knows – maybe we’ll be back in September, maybe October. We’re retired now, so it doesn’t matter.
Piers and Lin
from the Pilot House of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
These were the voyages of Piers and Lin du Pré aboard their Fleming 55
