The walled town of Vannes click to enlarge
Founded by the Romans in 56 BC, Julius Caesar went on to conquer the area known as Brittany.
Throughout the third century, fortified walls were built around the town to protect it from ‘barbaric tribes’.
Between 1341 and 1364 wars of succession were fought between two families claiming the title Duke of Brittany, which was eventually won by Jean IV.
The union with France
Anne de Bretagne was the last duchess of Brittany, dying in 1514. The demise of Brittany was sealed when her daughter, Claude, married Francois d’Angouleme, the future king of France.
In 1532 Francois 1st stayed in Vannes and negotiated the Treaty of Vannes proclaiming the ‘perpetual union of the Country and Duchy of Brittany with the Kingdom and Crown of France’.
Although Brittany was still permitted to control taxes and maintain its own army, in practice its destiny lay in French hands. The title Duke of Brittany became obsolete, the region’s assets were stripped and its autonomy eroded.
Today, many Bretons today do not ‘officially’ recognise Brittany as part of France and would far prefer to return to self-rule.
Picture post cards of Vannes
The St Vincent town gate which faces the marina click to enlarge
Castle De L’Hermine which housed the Brittany Parliament click to enlarge
The glorious gardens of the Castle De L’Hermine click to enlarge
The Captain of the Guard’s residence click to enlarge
The Parliament’s Wash Houses click to enlarge
You just feel these buildings are tipping over click to enlarge
Party creations from a sweet shop called Glup’s click to enlarge
The woodwork structure is just beautiful click to enlarge
Gorgeous ancient buildings abound in the walled town click to enlarge
So many alley-ways with overhanging buildings click to enlarge
Piers and Lin
from the Saloon of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
Many colourful trawlers fish the Baie de Quiberon with seagulls hitching rides waiting from breakfast click to enlarge
Our next port of call, the walled town of Vannes, is at the top of the beautiful Golfe du Morbihan. The Breton word Morbihan means Little Sea, an apt description given it covers over 100 square kilometres (approx. 12,000 hectares), with more than 40 islands, the largest of which is the Île aux Moines with its 7km coastline.
The inland sea of the Golfe du Morbihan is separated from the Atlantic by a narrow strait through which 400 million cubic metres of salt water pour at each high tide.
The nav plan
The pinch points start at the narrow strait entrance to the Golfe where tidal flows create currents of over 4kts. These become more pronounced as you pick your way through the islands towards Vannes, in one place exceeding 9kts. Bear in mind Play d’eau cruises at 8kts so we could easily find ourselves going backwards!
The ‘Sandbanks of Poole’ equivalent to the Golfe du Morbihan click to enlarge
We planned to leave Port Haliguen so we’d arrive at Port Navalo, the entrance to the Golfe, at its high tide to be carried on its peak to Vannes. In practice, it gave us an unexpected additional 2kts all the way.
The Golfe is a favourite yachting area for thousands of boats. Couple this with fast Vedettes ferrying tourists, and it becomes a challenge to play boats against Vedettes against tides against the shallow sea!
Arriving
Access to Vannes is through a swing bridge which only opens at specific times. For us, this meant being at the bridge at 1530.
After three exiting yachts we went through and up a short canal to Vannes to berth.
Tecky details
The Vedettes don’t take prisoners. Travelling fast, they pass close and make large wakes click to enlarge
1242hrs FST – Departed Port Haliguen
1542hrs FST – Arrived Vannes
Planned distance – 19.3nm
Longest leg – 9.8nm of pilotage in the Golfe
Tech problems – nil
Piers and Lin
from the Pilot House of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
A cold, grey sky greeted us as we emerged from our cabin and raised the blinds in the saloon to view the outside world. Whilst Lin went to fetch fresh croissants (a pink job) I busied myself with engine and nav checks (a blue job). Lin at the helm, not always doing a pink job click to enlarge
Leaving Port La Forêt
Casting off at 0830, we motored gently from the sleepy marina along the narrow half mile channel to the open sea where we began dodging the many poorly marked lobster pots that seem to litter the Brittany coast.
Lin brought the La Foret Fouesnant croissants and fresh coffee to the pilot house for breakfast and we were soon set up for the six hour passage to Port Haliguen, a small marina and fishing port on the south east side of Presqu’ile de Quiberon some fifty miles to the south west.
The nav plan
There are no real pinch points along the route today, but there’s one part worth mentioning.
Towards the end of our journey we pass to the south of Presqu’ile de Quiberon where we need to thread our way through the many reefs and islands which extend fourteen miles to the south west.Threading our way through the reefs, we passed within 50m of this outcrop click to enlargeThe track we take through this area will depend on the sea state at the time and how comfy we feel about cutting corners and threading our way thought the rocks!
Arriving
Just as we rounded Presqu’ile, the sun came out in her full glory and turned a grey day into a great day.
Given the sea state was completely calm, we chose the shortest of short cuts through the reefs where the tide, at times was running at 4 knots against us.
The Harbour Master was waiting for us in his RIB and led us to our berth. Would you believe, it had one of those pesky water connectors we’d first encountered at Camaret. The receptionist at the Capitainerie couldn’t have been more helpful. In answer to our first question she responded, ‘Oui, of course there’s Wi-Fi and here’s the code.’This is the adaptor required for the new style water outlets being installed in many French marinas click to enlargeIn answer to our second question, she replied, ‘The Chandlery is closed and there’s nowhere else to get the adaptor. But wait a moment.’ Picking up her radio she called another of the marina staff and spoke in rapid fire French. All I understood was ‘Play d’eau‘.
As we returned to Play d’eau someone asked, ‘Monsieur Play d’eau?’. ‘Oui’. ‘The Capitainerie asked me to give you this adaptor, with our compliments’.
So now we are the proud owners of the elusive adaptor!
Tecky details
0830hrs FST – Departed Port La Forêt
1453hrs FST – Port Haliguen
Planned distance – 51.1nm
Longest leg – 38.1nm, Pointe de Trévignon to Basse du Chanel SCM
Tech problems – a very slight oil leak from the aft of the stbd motor. Needs investigation Note: that the previous leg’s nav kit issues were all resolved with a re-boot. The question remains, what happened?
Piers and Lin
from the Pilot House of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
A hot sun in a clear blue sky with a cool breeze and a sea mist rolling up the estuary, set the scene for the Festival of Jazz at the bandstand on the last day of our extended visit to Port La Forêt. The six jazz musicians of the Cornouaille Jazz Band on the bandstand at Port La Forêt click to enlarge
…and they played
With the crowd ready and waiting, the Cornouaille Jazz Band’s six musicians and vocalist assembled their various amplifiers and instruments and put their heart and soul into playing blues, trad, and Chocolat ‘River Rat’ syncopations, using their array of saxophones, trumpet, clarinet, banjo, guitar, bass guitar, drums, and the occasional voice.
After two hours of fun the crowd didn’t want them to stop. ‘Encore, encore!’
We loved it.
So pleased we stayed that extra time at Port La Forêt.
Au revoir Port La Forêt
We’ve had a ball here.
Glorious walks, a beautiful local village, an outrageous Creperie, excellent quaffable cider, fresh croissants and Petit Moulé loaves from a Boulongerie that cares for perfection, swooping terns ducking and diving to snatch unwary fish for supper and to top it all off, Jazz on the Bandstand with the Cornouaille Jazz Band.
Au revoir Port la Forêt. À la prochaine.
Piers and Lin
from the Saloon of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
The Trumpeter, who played and played and played click to enlarge
The vocalist sang ‘Let my people go’ (in French, of course) click to enlarge
The bass guitarist click to enlarge
Proficient on banjo and guitar (sounded just like Johnny Depp) click to enlarge
The clarinetist played clarinet and sax click to enlarge
The clarinettist plays his preferred instrument click to enlarge
The drummer never had a break click to enlarge
Always waiting for his big moment to go crazy! click to enlarge
The bass sax was almost as tall as the player click to enlarge
The saxophonist with his array of saxaphones click to enlarge
The bass guitarist with one of the sax players in the background click to enlarge
The Trumpeter, my point of contact click to enlarge
The eccentric Creperie Quartier d’été, with equally eccentric and delicious crepes click to enlargeBy now you’ve probably gathered we like it at Port La Forêt. So much so, that instead of moving on after two days we’re staying until next Monday or thereabouts.
Why are we staying on?
So many reasons.
The village (or is it a tiny town?) of La Forêt-Fouesnant is a lovely half mile walk away around a lake. Counter-clockwise, you walk by the forest; clockwise, you walk on the small road by lovely houses and the Crêperie Quartier d’été with its wonderfully eccentric owner just waiting to delight you with his crêpes and Fouesnant cidre served Breton style in pottery cups.
Jazz on the band stand
Behind our pontoon and hidden by trees is an old fashioned bandstand. Two days ago, we heard a small jazz band practising. I went to investigate – with my camera. The four musicians played trumpet, bass guitar, banjo and sax and rather than mind me taking pics they asked me to come on stage to take more!Members of the Cornouaille Jazz Band were practising on the bandstand ready for Sunday’s concert (lick to enlarge)If you’ve seen the film Chocolat with Johnny Depp the type of jazz they were playing was very similar to that played by the River Rats – syncopated, catchy, innocent and fun.
I learned they were some of the members of the Cornouaille Jazz Band, practising for Sunday’s 4pm concert and they insisted I returned to take even more photos! I will, but I must learn how to take good pics which have a strong backlight without using flash. Back to the new camera’s manual.
La Forêt-Fouesnant’s Boulangerie
Now here’s a treat. The Boulangerie is also a Patisserie and a Chocolaterie, with chefs that delight in precision cooking. It’s hard not putting on weight just by looking.
La Forêt-Fouesnant’s École des Chefs
Would you believe there’s a Chef School in La Forêt-Fouesnant, specialising in crêpes? We were only just saying how we’d love to learn how to make buck wheat crêpes (galettes de blé noir) the way Monsieur Quartier d’été makes them, so thin and lacy. Maybe, just maybe, we’ll sign up for a course….
So Play d’eau will be staying for the next few days. An added bonus is that the sun is out and forecast to stay out. Good call.
Piers and Lin
from the Saloon of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
The chocolates made by the Chocolatiere look so gorgeous click to enlarge
…and there were more…. click to enlarge
The cakes were glistening so seductively click to enlarge
The west Brittany coast is strewn with reefs, rocks and lighthouses click to enlargeWith the sun daring to make one of her rare but welcome appearances during the summer months, Play d’eau and ship’s company waved au revoir to the small, unspoiled town of Audierne.
Audierne may not have the finest of marinas but it’s ‘real’. Wi-Fi may only be available from a bar on the quay front provided you keep drinking Cidre Pression (quel dommage), but when you have fresh croissants and baguettes and fresh local vegetables and fish only 200m away in the small covered market, does it really matter?
The nav plan
The plan was to leave Audierne as the tide fell and enter Port La Forêt as the tide rose again without , timing both so we didn’t fall foul of the sand bars at the entrances to both ports. It worked. Bringing his catch home, a fisherman proudly displays a fine moustache click to enlarge
Again, the sea was kind to us, keeping wonderfully flat and calm all the way with a wind never reaching more than a 4 knot NW’ly. Perfection for Play d’eau, not for yachts.
Port La Forêt
The first time we visited Port La Forêt was three years ago. We loved it then and we still love it.
As the piggy in the middle between Benodet and Concarneau, Port La Forêt tends to be bypassed by visitors. Such a shame since it’s a quiet yet vibrant marina with facilities way beyond the norm.
The France-Finistère training centre for the Figaro and 60′ single-hull races is based at Port La Forêt and some of the pontoons are especially wide for these single and multi-hull racing yachts.
Tecky details
A delight to behold click to enlarge0933hrs FST – Departed Audierne
1523hrs FST – Port La Forêt
Planned distance – 38.1nm
Longest leg – 13.0nm, Audierne to Men Hir on the Pointe de Penmarc’h peninsula
Tech problems – minor, annoying issues with the nav gear requiring investigation.
Piers and Lin
from the Pilot House of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
Macif, one of the 60′ racing mono-hulls based at Port la Forêt with its huge mast click to enlarge
Looks like half the boat’s been cut off click to enlarge
A giant’s cat’s cradle for kids to climb in the play area click to enlarge
The Saveol 60′ racing mono-hull, one of many based at Port La Forêt click to enlarge
Squash and Ginger soup ready to be devoured click to enlarge
The clue to this beautiful soup lies in its simplicity and flavour maximising. Although the amount of ginger may sound excessive, I assure you it isn’t. It’s just gorgeous.
Squash, Ginger, and vegetable stock click to enlarge
You will need
Saucepan
Hand-held or small stand-alone liquidiser
Cheese grater or a coarse Microplane
Bowl
Making the Squash and Ginger soup
Slice the squash into 2cm ‘wheels’. Cut the skin off, and, using a teaspoon, remove all traces of seeds and membrane.
Using the same teaspoon, use the edge to scrape the skin off the ginger.
Cut the squash wheels into 2cm x 1cm pieces.
The squash cut into 2cm wheels click to enlarge
Slice the ginger thinly, or grate it if you’ve kept it in the freezer. (Note: keeping peeled ginger in the freezer is a really good idea. It keeps for ages and can be grated easily whilst frozen)
Melt 150gm of butter in a large pan, add the squash and ginger and stir with a wooden spoon to ensure everything is covered with butter.
Cover the pan and cook gently for 10 minutes, stirring every two minutes to keep everything covered in butter.
After these ten minutes are up, add just enough stock to cover the squash and cook until the squash is just soft.
Remove the pan from the heat and allow it to cool down a bit before liquidising really well. If it’s too thick, add some more stock or fresh milk. Provided you’ve liquidised it well there’s no need to sieve this soup.
Serving the Squash and Ginger soup
The Squash and Ginger, basted with butter, before the stock is added click to enlarge
Pour the soup into a clean pan and reheat – do not boil – and add the rest of the butter. Stir well, adding salt to taste. (Note: don’t add pepper since it’s black specs will detract from the look of the soup)
Pour into warm bowls.
Place a small dollop (a Play d’eau technical term) of crème fraiche on the top of each serving and a small sprinkling of finely chopped coriander.
Each person should have six Soldier Croutons.
Additional touches
Once liquidised, allow the soup to develop its flavour in the fridge for 24hrs – if you can wait that long!
Drizzle some Truffle Oil on each serving before adding the coriander. Brings a earthy depth
This soup is also great as an Amuse Bouche, served either hot or cold without the croutons. Keeps well in the freezer.
So, so simple, yet so, so beautiful.
Piers and Lin
from the Galley of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
These are so much more fun than the usual square croutons, and so simple to make. Crouton soldiers, golden brown click to enlarge
For the Crouton Soldiers
1 slice of bread/person
1 tbsp olive oil and 1 tbsp sesame oil (enough for 18 crouton soldiers)
Kitchen paper
Making the Crouton Soldiers
Carefully cut the sliced bread into 8cm x 2cm strips.
Mix the oils, and sprinkle onto both sides of the crouton soldiers.
Tip – we mix the oils since sesame oil on its own can easily burn at a low temperature.
Warm a frying pan over a medium heat and add the crouton soldiers. After a minute, turn them over. You are looking for a lovely golden brown on both sides.
When they’re done, lift them out and place them on kitchen paper to absorb any surplus oil.
Crunchy and gorgeous.
Ensure no one is about when you make them – they’ll disappear without trace if you aren’t watching like a hawk!
Piers and Lin
From the Galley of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
Cornish sea salt. Until we tried this we hadn’t tasted real salt. click to enlargeThis post is to list the ingredients we’ve found to be best of breed. As time allows, we’ll be adding more.
Salt
From Table to Maldon to Pink Himalayan – which salt for you?
Our first ‘salt revelation’ came when we were shown that weight for weight, you have considerably more salt by quantity if you use an unprocessed sea salt rather than a free running, chemically enhanced table salt.
Our second ‘salt revelation’ was realising there were many different real salts: Maldon, Pink Himalayan, Cornish, Welsh coastal, and the list goes on and on.
So, we lined up over a dozen salts and tried them, judging each for its salty taste and saltiness strength factor.
Burford Brown eggs with their dark orange, luscious tasting yolks click to enlargeCutting to the chase, Cornish Sea Salt harvested straight from the Atlantic at the Lizard peninsula won by miles. A beautifully pure salt taste with a high salt factor meaning you use less to achieve the same saltiness.
Sadly, there’s no salt from Guernsey – maybe there’s a business to be had?
Cornish Sea Salt is available from some of the major supermarkets such as Tesco and Waitrose.
Eggs
Now this is something we just stumbled on without thinking. A ‘Doh!’ moment.
If we needed eggs, it was simply a question of size – small, medium or large.
One day, the only eggs left on supermarket’s shelf were from Cotswold Old Leg Bar hens. Opening the box to check them, the eggs were smaller than usual, but more surprisingly the shells were blue – not the normal brown or white!Maille raspberry flavoured vinegar click to enlargeLater, when we came to use them, the yolks were such a deep orange colour, and even better, when we came to eat them, the depth of flavour was so much more intense.
This led us to try other types, and the only other that’s a challenger is a Burford Brown. Taste-wise the same, size-wise it’s larger and with a dark brown shell.
So our recommendation is Burford Brown, followed by Cotswold Old Leg Bar.
Available from some supermarkets such as Sainsburys, Morrisons and Waitrose.
Vinegar
Having been served a mayonnaise that was so, so delicate and luscious, we were told it had been made with a Raspberry Vinegar. What a difference it made.
Since then, we have used Raspberry Vinegar for our own mayonnaise and vinaigrette dressings.
We’ve also tested various makes but there’s no doubt in our mind that Raspberry Vinegar from Maille takes the crown.
It can be difficult to find in the UK, but it’s everywhere in France, of course.
Olive oil
Colonna olive oil infused with organic lemons click to enlargeNow here’s an interesting one. From the many olive oils that range across the shelves, we’ve found a firm favourite which Lin uses in so many dishes.
Colonna Granverde.
This is a Sicilian extra virgin olive oil taken from the first cold pressing but with a difference.
Organic Sicilian lemons are added to the olives so both are pressed together producing an oil infused with a citrus zest and aroma. Perfect.
Available from Waitrose.
Guernsey Butter
Now here’s a delight you really must try.
Guernsey butter tastes of butter. Sounds crazy but just compare Guernsey butter with the butter you usually have and you’ll have one of those ‘Damascus Road’ experiences (well, almost) and you’ll realise what you’ve been missing!
Once you’ve opened a pack, there’s no need to keep it in the fridge. Just leave it out at room temperature. It keeps for weeks like that and is always at the right consistency to spread.
You can store Guernsey butter in the freezer for months if not years, and if you have the room I’d certainly recommend buying the June and July made butter since the cows will have been grazing on the fresh spring and summer grass.The butter of all butters. A rich, deep yellow butter, that restores faith in how butter should taste click to enlargeBoth salted and unsalted versions are made.
Do let us know how you get on with using Guernsey butter – hopefully you’ll never look back, and no, we don’t have shares in the Guernsey Dairy.
Waitrose usually stocks Guernsey butter.
Piers and Lin
from the Galley of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
These were the voyages of Piers and Lin du Pré aboard their Fleming 55