The fortified and walled city of La Rochelle click to enlargeWe’ve had a great time in the Bassin des Chalutiers in the Vieux Port of La Rochelle.
One of our sons, his wife and two children came to meet us for a day; we explored the Maritime Museé and the town; we walked; we were hot; we used the air con many times, and we met Pat and Michelle who spend their life racing their Class 40 yacht, Croix du Sud, all over the world – literally (see photo below).
The nav plan
There were two pinch points on this journey.
Rochefort is some 12nm up the River Charente and we’d been advised the lock gate to the marina would only be open between 1300 and 1400. If we missed it, we’d have to wait until the next day to gain access.The 3500 berth Les Minimes marina at La Rochelle click to enlargeBack at the Bassin des Chalutiers, the exit lock gate wouldn’t open until 1130 leaving us with a maximum of two and a half hours for the journey, in turn demanding an average speed of 12 knots. Too fast as far as I’m concerned, and even if we travelled at this speed there’d be no margin to play with.
Instead, we took the 2215 lock gate yesterday evening from the Bassin des Chalutiers and motored all of 1nm to Les Minimes marina. Given Les Minimes has 24hr access we could leave at our leisure for Rochefort, today.
The Journey
Having had strong W’ly winds for the last few days with the occasional rain and thunder shower, today was different. Hot, clear skies, with only a light E’ly wind. Perfect.
Passing Fort Boyard, we entered the Charente river an hour or so before high tide expecting the flood tide to give us an extra knot. Interestingly, the tide was against us yet in the last mile it changed and the river was still on the flood.Fort Boyard between Ile d’Aix and Ile d’Oléron click to enlargeCrazy – or am I missing something? Yes, I checked high tide with the Capitainerie and there was no mistake.
Arriving
The Charente river is lovely although an avocado green of mud in suspension. We followed the many leading marks passing strange fishing huts on stilts with large nets. Anyone know what these are for?
An astonishing piece of engineering is Le Pont Transbordeur, which suspends a cabin just above water height taking people and cars from one side of the river to the other, linking the road.
We were met by the Harbour Master in his dory and shown to a good berth. By gum, the marina’s a sun trap measuring well into the mid-30 degrees C.There are many of these huts on stilts with huge nets along the river Charente click to enlargeCan’t wait to explore the town and tour the Hermione which we saw close to the marina – it’s on tomorrow’s agenda.
The tecky details
Departed Les Minimes, La Rochelle – 0720
Arrived Rochefort – 1322
Planned distance – 25nm
Longest leg – 12.9nm up the River Charente
Tech issues – nil
Piers and Lin
From the Nav table of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
The 113 year old Le Pont Transbordeur links the road on either side of the Charante with a suspended ‘flying cabin’. You can see the cabin close to the water at the base of the left leg click to enlargeThe Transbordeur cabin started its crossing after we’d passed. click to enlargePat and Michelle on Croix du Sud. Having raced nearly every yacht race there is (including the Sydney-Hobart ‘many times’) their next race is the non-stop Le Havre-Brazil. click to enlarge
The two ‘weasels’ with Dad in the dinghy click to enlargeWe had a great treat yesterday.
One of our sons, his wife and two children are on holiday staying with two of their dear friends who live in Riberac, France.
Yesterday, they all came to visit us on Play d’eau in the Bassin des Chalutiers, La Rochelle.
Arriving just before lunch it was so good seeing them all again; we’d missed the family so much, and the two grandchildren, the ‘weasels’, gave us such hugs.
Their friends had created and brought a superb lunch with them, after which some of us dozed and had a siesta. Meanwhile, Play d’eau’s dinghy had become the focus of attention.
The weasels, as the grandchildren are known, tested the Torqeedo battery operated outboard to the full. Brilliant fun all round.Madam in charge in the dinghy with Dad as an optional extra click to enlargeA late afternoon stroll into the old town with ice creams was ‘de rigueur’ followed by dinner of various moules dishes on the quayside to complete our red letter day.
It can’t get much better than this.
Piers and Lin
from the Saloon of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
PS – Lin has almost managed to eradicate the cherry stains from the sofa….
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
The France 1 Ocean Station Vessel 50 crew, launched 1958, decommissioned 1985 click to enlarge“Ocean Station Vessel Lima, Ocean Station Vessel Lima, Ocean Station Vessel Lima, this is Speedbird 201, over.”
When flying for BOAC in the 1970s, I’d call these ocean station vessels (OSVs) on the VHF radio when overflying the Atlantic. Being stationed in specific geographic locations, OSVs could identify you by radar and advise your position. Really helpful given astro-nav and Loran were the two main navigation aids – there was no GPS in those days.
The ship France 1
France 1 is now a Maritime Museum moored in the Bassin des Chalutiers in La Rochelle, just across from where we are with Play d’eau.
Yesterday, we paid our few euros, picked up the English France 1 briefing, and boarded her. Standing on the aft deck Lin began reading.
‘France 1 was a stationary meteorological frigate operating in the Atlantic in the 1970s.’OSV locations on the Atlantic click to enlargeIt turned out that France 1 was an OSV, and more to the point, one with which I must have had radio contact during the many Atlantic crossings I did in the Boeing 707 in the 1970s. Memories began flooding back.
Mayday, Mayday, Mayday
I only ever heard one Mayday whilst flying and it was over the Atlantic, at night. A Piper Cherokee Arrow, a small single engine light aircraft with retractable undercarriage was en route from Newfoundland to Ireland.
The pilot was radioing a Mayday. No was answered, so I responded. He told me the Cherokee’s undercarriage had suddenly come down, adding drag, decreasing his airspeed and increasing his fuel consumption such that he now had insufficient fuel to reach Ireland and would have to ditch in the Atlantic. Could I contact the nearest OSV for radar guidance so he could ditch next to it and be rescued?
On the radio you could sense his relief at knowing he now had a potential route to survival.
I contacted the closest OSV. Yes, of course they’d help. I asked for the sea state. It was dreadful. Really dreadful. High winds, high seas, with huge primary and secondary swells. With full cloud cover and no moon it would be pitch black. He wouldn’t be able to see anything. His chance of surviving would be minimal.The Communications Room on the France 1 The full size cardboard cut-out (left) is not me! click to enlargePassing the sea state back to the pilot you could hear the fear grip his voice.
In the short pause that followed, a new voice came over the ether. ‘Speedbird, this is Ascot, over.’
‘Speedbird, this is Ascot’
Ascot was the callsign used by the RAF, and in this case it was an RAF Nimrod aircraft designed for maritime surveillance and patrol.
‘Speedbird, we have altered track to intercept the Cherokee and will shortly be in range to talk direct. Meanwhile, can the pilot give us his rate of fuel burn and remaining fuel?’
In the minutes that followed, the Ascot was in direct contact with the Cherokee just as we flew out of range. The last transmission I heard was, ‘Cherokee, this is Ascot. If you would like, we will direct you on the most efficient track to Shannon. We will overfly and follow you and if you need to ditch we will drop a survival raft and alert the rescue services accordingly. Would you prefer this to ditching by the OSV?’France 1 had 3 x Paxman Norton 850hp main engines creating 110dB and 35C in the engine room click to enlargeI didn’t hear the response from the Cherokee – we’d just flown out of range.
Any news?
The next morning I bought the Daily Telegraph hoping to find some news. Inside, a column inch stated ‘Yesterday, an RAF Nimrod on Atlantic patrol escorted a Piper Cherokee to Shannon after it had declared an emergency. Under guidance from the RAF the Cherokee managed to land at Shannon moments before running out of fuel.’
As I gazed at the communications room in France 1, I was re-living the moment and wondering if this was the OSV with which I had acted as that Mayday Relay?
Piers
from the Saloon of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form. The France 1 was diesel electric. Each of her three main engines turned a generator (above) to power… click to enlarge
…two electric motors one per propeller shaft click to enlarge
This rich tomato sauce is brilliant for pizzas and tomato based soups. It should feature as a staple in your on board larder.Rich tomato sauce click to enlargeCreate the following quantity in advance and you’ll have plenty to store in jars in the fridge where it’ll keep for months and months and months for use with many meals.
Rich Tomato Sauce
1 red onion
2 kg very ripe tomatoes, mixed varieties
200g vine tomatoes
1 tin chopped plum tomatoes
100g cherry tomatoes
1 250/370gm jar of sun dried tomatoes in olive oil
1 large clove of garlic, crushed
1 tsp mixed dry herbs (Herbs de Provence)
Olive oil as required
Preparation
Start by preparing the tomatoes. This will take a bit time but will be so worthwhile.
First, we need to skin them. Make a cross with two small cuts across the bottom of each tomato. Place them, one at a time, in a bowl of boiling water, bottom up. After a few moments you’ll see the skin start to peel from the cross. Lift the tomato out (not using your fingers!) and peel off all the skin.
Repeat this process for all the tomatoes.
Second, you need to de-seed them. Cut each into quarters and use your thumb to scoop out the seeds and non-fleshy bits. Do this over a bowl so all the discard is collected – don’t waste any of it. The liquor this produces is so full of flavour.
Note: If by the time you reach the cherry tomatoes you’re tired, just skin them. There’s no need to de-seed them.
Third, cut the flesh into thirds and add to the bowl of ingredients.
Finally, extract all the juice from the seeds and bits. To do this, pour the bits into a sieve over the bowl of ingredients and press the juice through using the back of a large spoon.
Now, chop the onion finely and fry gently in some olive oil until they’ve become translucent but not coloured. Add the crushed garlic.
After a few moments, add the dried herbs, the prepared tomato flesh, the whole content of the jar of sun dried tomatoes, and cook for 4 hours over a low heat.
There should be enough liquid in the ingredients, but if you need to add some water, do. In the same way, if you need more olive oil, add a tbsp at a time.
When cool, decant into jam jars and store in the fridge. As I’ve said, it’ll keep for months.
Note that we didn’t added any salt or pepper. That’s because this sauce is used as an ingredient with other recipes which, when they’re made, will be seasoned in their own right.
Piers and Lin
from the Galley of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
This Gazpacho is just perfect for a hot day when ‘cool’ is needed. It’s so refreshing, so ‘clean’.
(Modified on 3.8.2013 & 17.8.2013).
Making it in these quantities means you’ll have a good number of servings. Any left over can be kept in the fridge for use during a heat-wave, or frozen whilst you wait for the next heat-wave.
Gazpacho dressed with diced cucumber and shreds of basil click to enlarge
Ingredients
2 kgs tomatoes, mixed varieties, all very ripe
1 large red pepper, deseeded, pith removed, chopped
1 medium size red onion, chopped
1 large cucumber, peeled and sliced
6 tbsp rich tomato sauce
1 tbsp tomato paste
200ml vegetable stock (or water)
100ml extra virgin olive oil
3 tbsp. balsamic vinegar
1 large clove of garlic
3 tsp salt
½ tsp fresh ground black pepper
To Serve
Cucumber, peeled and diced, excluding the pippy bits
Basil, shredded
You’ll need
Large bowl
Large sieve
Large spoon
Sharp pointed knife
Liquidiser or good hand held blender
Saucepan with boiling water
To Prepare
Peel the garlic, slice lengthways and lift out the core, its soul. The soul causes bitterness, the last thing you want in this soup.
Chop the garlic finely, place it in a large bowl and add the stock, red pepper, red onion, cucumber, rich tomato sauce, tomato paste, olive oil, balsamic vinegar, salt and pepper.
Then attack the tomatoes. You need to skin and de-seed them, leaving only the flesh.
To do this, take a tomato, carve out its crown with a pointed knife, and make a cross with two small cuts across the bottom of each tomato. Place them, one at a time, in a bowl of boiling water, bottom up. After a few moments you’ll see the skin start to peel from the cross. Lift the tomato out and peel off all the skin. Provided the tomatoes are very ripe, this will be an easy task.
Repeat this process for all the tomatoes.
To de-seed the peeled tomatoes, first cut them into quarters. Then, using your thumb, scoop out the seeds and any loose debris into a sieve over the bowl of ingredients; the juice you’ll extract from this later will be key to the recipe. Don’t waste anything.
Set the tomato flesh aside.
Using the back of a large spoon, extract the juice from the seeds and debris into the bowl.
Finally, cut the tomato flesh into thirds and add to the bowl.
Mix everything as best you can.
Ladle the mix into a liquidiser and liquidise, but not into a fully fine liquid. Given the quantity you’ve prepared you may need to liquidise in several sessions.
Pour the final mixture into a clean bowl, give it a final stir, taste, and adjust the seasoning if necessary.
Cover with cling film and place in the fridge for 24 hours to mature.
Serve cold from the fridge with finely chopped cucumber sprinkled on top with shreds of basil.
Scrummy.
Piers and Lin
from the Galley of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
The garden travels in the sink for protection! click to enlargeHow does our garden grow? Very well, thank you. In fact, really well.
What’s planted?
Play d’eau’s garden is planted with mint, basil, thyme and chives. Having fresh herbs makes all the difference, and ‘boat grown’ somehow makes them taste so much better.
As some of you will know Lin used to grow orchids, so in addition to the herbs Lin has kept just one since space is at such a premium on the boat.
Where is Play d’eau’s garden?
Where do we keep them? When moored, the herbs are in the aft cockpit whilst at sea, the whole garden is kept in the sink for protection.
A bonus is when the chives flower. The flowers are so lovely in two ways; their looks and their concentrated taste.
The garden doesn’t attract green fly or other nasties, only comment from passing boaters.
Piers and Lin
From the Garden of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
The flower heads of chives are so lovely click to enlargePlay d’eau’s garden of key herbs click to enlarge
Pre-dawn long-range pic of Les Sables tralwers off-loading their night’s catch click to enlargeAs dawn was preparing to make her golden appearance to grace another red hot day, there was just enough light to see the trawlers off-loading their night’s catch at the maritime cooperative.
La Rochelle’s Bassin des Chalutiers was today’s destination.
Leaving Les Sables d’Olonne
Play d’eau was moored port side to. Having singled out the warps, Lin took the helm. Using a forward spring and a touch of starboard throttle, Lin gently eased the stern off the pontoon before engaging reverse power to take us off the berth at our planned departure time of 0730.
Neat, so neat.
The Journey
Flat calm and hot as we headed towards La Rochelle. On days like this it can be difficult to distinguish between sea and sky click to enlargeFlat, calm seas, under a hot sun. We almost succumbed to having the air conditioning on in the Pilot House, but noblesse oblige came to the fore. Instead, we baked (and regretted our decision).
Arriving
Access to the Bassin des Chalutiers is through a lifting bridge and lock gate, which is only opened for around two hours at top of tide. Hence, our early departure from Les Sables d’Olonne.
As we travelled under the huge bridge that links the beautiful Île de Ré with La Rochelle, we passed the deep water port before turning into the approaches to La Rochelle.
Giving the Capitainerie 30 minutes notice of our pending arrival on channel 9, we were met by M. Christian, Harbour Master, in his dory. Within moments the bridge lifted and M. Christian led us though the lock gate into the basin and to our berth.
We have electricity, water and Wi-Fi.
The tecky details
M. Christian, Harbour Master, guided us through the lock gate and to our berth click to enlarge0730 FST – Departed Quai Garnier, Les Sables d’Olonne
1245 FST – Arrived Bassin des Chalutiers, La Rochelle
Planned distance – 36.3nm
Longest leg – 13.7nm – Bourgenay SWM to NNW of Pt Grouin
Waypoints – 13
Tech issues – None.
Note: The oil leak reported on Leg 9 is under watch and will be repaired when back in Beaucette. The stabiliser pump and gearbox will have to be removed before the flywheel housing is exposed, after which the offending seal can be replaced.
Piers and Lin
from the Engine Room of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
Le Clipper, restaurant gastronomique, where we celebrated our 41st wedding anniversary click to enlargeWe’ve had a great time at Les Sables d’Olonne celebrating our 41st wedding anniversary, cleaning Play d’eau, exploring the town and enjoying the constant movement of trawlers.
Wedding Anniversary
We ate at Le Clipper, one of many restaurants along the Quai Garnier where Play d’eau is moored. Why Le Clipper? It’s mentioned in the Michelin Guide, it looked different, and Madame was so welcoming when I enquired about booking.
We arrived at 7pm to be met by Chef (who looked like Alastair Simm), Madame and their daughter. Lots of hand shakings and welcomes, especially when we told them it was our wedding anniversary.
Over a Kir Royale (fraise for Lin, mûre (mulberry) for me) we chose from the 37 euro menu.
After the gazpacho amuse bouche, we both had ‘Foie Gras de canard mi-cuit, chutney de poires aux épices doux’ with a large glass of Coteaux du Layon, an Appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC) for sweet white wine in the Loire Valley wine region of France, made from the Chenin Blanc grape, locally often called Pineau de la Loires. Luscious.The Black Pearl, one of the larger trawlers click to enlargeThe main course was ‘Filet de boeuf du Limousin cuit au sautoir purée de pommes de terre aux truffles blanche d’Italie’ washed down with a bottle of Chateau Grand Barrail from Lamarzelle, Figeac, St. Emilion.
After cheese and a small green salad, Lin chose the Croustillant d’ananas de Côte d’Ivoire rôti au cinq épices, crème aux saveurs des îles et glace coco’. ‘Just like the Caribbean on a plate,’ said Lin. I had ‘Crémeux de chocolat blanc et opaline de sucre à la vanille’. No wine with this course – we were full up!
Coffee, tea and a glass of Armagnac ended a great evening. Très gentil.
Trawlers and the fishing port
Quai Garnier shares port with the trawlers and fishing community. Large and small trawlers work non-stop, at all hours of the day and night. After off-loading their catches, they refill with ice and diesel from the maritime co-operative.
What a beach
One of the smallest trawlers and lobster boats, working from Les Sables d’Olonne click to enlargeNow we know why the town has the name ‘Les Sables’. Its sandy beach is simply stunning, and in the current hot weather, people made a bee-line for it.
Le sable of Les Sables.
Well, we’re off to La Rochelle early tomorrow, so until we write again, bon soir.
Piers and Lin
from the saloon of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.The beautiful sand of the huge beach at Les Sables d’Olonne click to enlarge
Often I’m asked if I have any favourite products for looking after Play d’eau.Wurth Brake Cleaner click to enlargeI do, and here are some of the key items you’ll find in her ‘make-up bag’.
Engine Room
De-greaser and oil remover
When carbon tetrachloride (‘carbon tet’) was taken off the market because it was too dangerous a chemical for us lesser mortals to use (inhaling it apparently caused all sorts of illnesses, some more fatal than others), the task was to find a powerful degreaser which left no residue.
A great engineer introduced me to Brake Cleaner from Würth UK Ltd which I’ve found to be better than ‘carbon tet’. To make it easier to use and to reach difficult areas, I use Brake Cleaner in Würth’s 1 litre pump spray bottle.
The info says ‘A fast, effective removal of soot, grease, brake dust and oily residues. Residue-free cleaning. Acetone free. High material compatibility to paints, plastics, seals and rubber. AOX and silicone-free.’
Comes in various sized pressurised cans, or larger containers for use with a Würth spray bottle. A brilliant product.
Spray grease
This is another Würth UK Ltd product and one which I’ve used for years. HHS-2000 is a ‘highly adhesive, pressure-resistant, synthetic grease’.Wurth HHS 2000 spray grease click to enlargeIn other words, a thick sticky grease in a penetrating solvent.
Spray it and the solvent penetrates the smallest of orifices taking a thin film of grease with it. As the solvent evaporates the grease is left.
I use it for linkages, moving joints and for keeping camper hood press studs easy to use.
Verdigris and Rust remover
Now here’s a great product. Biox from Conservation Resources UK Ltd.
It’s a bio-degradable gel which literally eats verdigris and rust. Brush it on, wait for to do its work, and wipe and wash it away. Result? Clean, gleaming metal with no residue.
Far better than using wire wool or carborundum paper which leaves ‘bits’ which are so difficult to remove completely and which will cause further problems.
I use Biox on Play d’eau’s water strainers and stuffing boxes, and anything that’s become rusty that I hadn’t noticed!
Engine room cleaner
More recently, I’ve found Muc-off Marine to be a great general cleaner for around Play d’eau’s engine room and transom.
Spray it on, and using a soft rag or small scrubbing brush the area comes clean as a whistle. Note: Don’t use a scrubbing brush on polished gel coat! Biox verdigris and rust eater click to enlarge
Body Work
Gel coat cleaning is an area that’s guaranteed to start endless debate from both ends of the spectrum. So without ducking for cover, theses are some Play d’eau basics.
Household cleaners like Cif and Fairy liquid all have abrasive particles within them leaving a minutely abraded surface which will trap dirt more quickly next time. As time goes on, the surface becomes more and more damaged and harder and harder to keep clean. Not a good scenario.
Now for the products we’ve found which work really well without damaging Play d’eau’s bodywork gleaming.
Gel coat cleaner
I’ve replaced my usual Farecla Deep Clean with Muc-off Marine which lifts off those stubborn black streaks really easily.
Fender and dinghy cleaner
In the same way you shouldn’t use abrasives to clean gel coat, don’t use them on vinyl.
Instead, Play d’eau’s make-up bag contains Poly Marine Ltd’s Inflatable Boat Cleaner and Inflatable Boat Finish. Spray the Cleaner on and leave it a minute or so before cleaning using a small gentle brush, or a rag. Dirt just lifts off.Muc Off Marine general cleaner click to enlargeThen don’t forget to use the Polish. Again, it really works keeping the surface shiny and less able to attract dirt.
Teak
Now here’s a real point of contention. So many of us will dig our heels for what we believe works, so for what it’s worth, I’ll start with some Play d’eau basics.
Teak is a natural oily wood, so there’s no need to add oil to it. Adding a dressing of oil does nothing for the wood apart from attract dirt.
Scrubbing teak will damage it by taking out the soft wood leaving ridges of hard wood. In time, the teak will need sanding back.
Brushing along the grain will also take out the soft wood. We don’t do it.
The three main issues teak suffer from are litchen (light green when wet), mould (black), and dark green algae. Left untreated, the litchen especially can cause damage. So what works?
General cleaning should be with a hose with not too much pressure. Follow this with a dousing of salt water to discourage lichen and mould.
If you feel you have to use a brush, only use a soft brush and only across the grain.
However, maybe once a year, a more radical treatment is necessary to rout out lichen and mould so out comes the Wessex two part Treatment, an acid and an alkali. When applied properly your teak will look brand new and will have suffered no damage. Poly Marine Ltd’s Dinghy and Fender cleaner and polish click to enlarge
Pressure Washers
I won’t have a pressure washer anywhere near Play d’eau.
On teak, pressure washing rips out the soft wood leaving the grain standing proud and soon sanding will be the only option for any restoration provided the teak is thick enough to withstand sanding.
Gel coat is also damaged by pressure washing. Not only is gel coat easily scratched, we know it’s porous (aka osmosis). Put both these together and you can see that pressure washing can so easily cause damage. Although ‘instant’ results can be achieved, the longer term is damage requiring repair.
For gel coat, there’s nothing like elbow grease and a low rpm electric polisher. Takes a lot more time, but the results are so worth it.
Piers
from the Engine Room of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
These were the voyages of Piers and Lin du Pré aboard their Fleming 55
