8am this morning, and endless black clouds and high winds assail us click to enlargeOwn up – who turned our brilliant weather off?
The 6 weeks following our departure from Audierne on 12th June have been utterly glorious. Sun cream by the gallon (well, not quite), calm seas and blue skies, all courtesy of a friendly Azores high pressure system spreading its wings over Play d’eau. It was perfect.
But the moment John and Beryl left nine days ago, we’ve had thunder storms and high winds created by an endless march of depression after depression which have won the battle and sent the high pressure running.
Where now?
Good question. So far we’ve been holed up in Les Sables d’Olonne for six days and the first weather window seems to be next Thursday. If so, we’ll have been in Les Sables for nine days when we only intended one.
Our plan had been to visit Île d’Yeu, Pornic, Roche Bernard in the La Vilaine River, anchor off one of the beautiful, small islands of the Quiberon Peninsula, moving onto Lorient, the Glénans archipelago known as the Breton Tahiti, and finally Port la Fôret before heading for Camaret on the Finistère Peninsula on or around 9th August.
Looking further into the forecasts brings even more depressions. Growl.
Battle plan
Well, two can play at this weather game. So, planning for the worst, rather than seven stops en route to Camaret with time off to play at each, we’ll do it in three. Pornichet, Lorient and Sainte Marine, taking any available weather window.
Meanwhile, if another high pressure graces us with its presence and banishes the depressions, we’ll stay and play. If it doesn’t, at least we know ‘the plan’.
You see, there’s always next year….
Piers and Lin
from the Meteorological Observatory of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
The patisserie was calorific cruelty click to enlargeThis is just a postcard – not a letter.
Boulangerie
A short and delightful walk away is the boulangerie at La Fôret-Fouesnant. It’s a patisserie and chocolaterie as well, and has the most mouth watering and calorifically impressive displays imaginable.
One fine morning I arrived at 10am and asked for, ‘Trois croissants, s’il vous plaît.’ The young mademoiselle politely told me they were sold out and that in any case (glancing at her watch and giving me a look of disdain that only a French Mademoiselle can give) it wasn’t petit déjeuner any more, but déjeuner. Well, there’s telling you.
Suitably admonished I asked for a baguette and was rewarded with a beautiful smile.
Twixt the Marina and La Fôret-Fouesnant
The 18th century Le Manoir de Mesmeur is now the prestigious Cornouaille Golf Club click to enlargeThe mile and a half walk from the marina to the village is through a cooling wood and along a narrow walkway by the lake, passing on one side the prestigious Cornouaille Golf Club and the eccentric Crêperie Quartier d’été and smart houses on the other. Making this a round trip to acquire one’s breakfast croissants (don’t be late) is a joy.
The lake dries at low tide and re-fills to capacity as the tide comes in.
Fouesnant’s church
The ancient, weathered church stands proud near the water’s edge. Its tall and reasonably ornate spire houses its bells. Sadly, they must be cracked for they no longer ring with vibrancy, but more of a sad and empty ‘dong’.
Archipel des Glénan
Port la Flôret runs a ferry service to and from the Îles de Glénan, an archipelago off the coast. Known as the Breton Tahiti and only accessible in summer, the islands, sand and turquoise seas are spectacular.The Aigrette III would moor next to Play d’eau overnight click to enlargeFerries shuttle passengers back and forth, and one of the vedettes, the Aigrette III, would moor next to us, overnight.
Having waxed lyrical about the archipelago, we have yet to go there!
The Union Flag
Originally the 18th century Le Manoir Mesmeur, The Cornouaille Golf Club displays an array of flags of many nations. For at least the last two years, the Union Flag has been flown upside down.
Flying the flag this way has two meanings. Declaring a state of distress (maybe because the British players are always winning) or as a deliberate insult (maybe because the British players are always winning).
By the way, there’s only one time when the Union Flag can be called the Union Jack. Any idea when?
Piers and Lin
from the Writing Bureau of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
(Click on a pic and use left/right arrows to scroll through the album)
We ate at the wonderfully eccentric Créperie click to enlargeA serenade, flat seas, hot sun, dolphins, the ‘joy’ of falling into the middle of a yacht race in crowded waters, and just a touch of sunburn.
The last supper
To celebrate such a brilliant time in Port la Fôret of jazz, more jazz, meeting friends and being in such a beautiful area, we decided to eat out.
With cidre de maison on the table (2 bottles and pottery mugs) at the eccentric Crêperie Quartier d’été we ordered the day’s special: Crèpe Arlette, a gorgeous concoction with fromage de chèvre, confit de cidre, maison salade, et noise. Supremely delicious.
(Maison Salade – begs the question of when will the rest of the world learn how to serve and dress salad rather than just depositing two bits of tomato, a limp lettuce leaf and a sad slice of cucumber on a plate, undressed, with the temerity to call it a garnish?)
To follow we indulged in Crèpe d’Happy, a crèpe froment with green apple sorbet and manzana (wild apple) liqueur. Although we felt full we just had to have another but this time we chose crèpes froment with just sugar and lemon.
Is your mouth watering yet?
Au revoir Port la Fôret
The seas were glassy flat click to enlargeA fine, clear, calm day greeted us. Over a coffee (tea for Lin) we checked the weather and prepared for a 9am departure. Slipping the lines we gentled our way to a glassy flat sea which at times sparkled in the sun.
Leaving the pierhead we became aware of – music. Looking back, we saw Alain, the jazz band’s trumpeter, serenading us! We waved, he waved (as much as anyone can with a trumpet to their mouth) and when he stopped I replied with my trumpets, the Kahlenbergs.
What a great send off.
En route
We hadn’t been travelling long before Lin shouted, ‘Dolphins!’ Out came the cameras as they played about a hundred metres away from us.
12 miles from Lorient we spotted an AIS target on our track. It was a Yacht race buoy. Soon, we’d counted 56 yachts racing out of Lorient to a distant buoy way out to our starboard.
Looking at Lin, I said, ‘When they reach that buoy they’ll turn and come for the buoy on our track. We’ll be there just when they arrive. Oh, Joy.’
There’s only on thing to do in these circumstances. Close your eyes and go into denial. Well, not quite, but it’s the thought that counts isn’t it? It must have been because rather than turn and head for us they turned the other way and headed away. Denial works – result!
Quiberon Peninsula
Dolphins, so many of them, came out to perform just for us click to enlargeWe either took the long way around the rocky outcrops, or we cut the corner and threaded our way through the shallows between the rocks in the En Toull Bras channel. It was only one hour after low tide and at its shallowest point which was also its narrowest point, we’d only have 1m below our keel.
Play d’eau aced it.
Nav data
Times are FST.
Departed Port la Fôret: 0900, 19 June 2015
Pinchpoints: None
Arrived Port Haliguen: 1535
Time en route: 6hr 35min
Planned distance: 52.9nm
Tech issues: None
Piers and Lin
from the Chart Table of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
(click on the photos below to enlarge, and use the left/right arrows)
The Cornouaille Jazz Band with Piers click to enlarge‘Would you like the jazz band to play on Play d’eau?’ asked Alain. Without even a micro-second hesitation we replied, excitedly, ‘Brilliant!’
Two years ago
It was two years ago that we’d tried to set this up but it hadn’t been possible. The marina was too full take us for the planned date.
Tonight’s the night
But now it would happen. 5 musicians would take up residence on the aft cockpit.
Jean-Aubert on banjo and guitar
Jean-Francois on tenor saxophone and clarinet
Alain on trumpet
Georges on drums
Michel on bass guitar
and last but not least, Jean-Michel (who sports the most magnificent bushy beard) – the band’s resident vidoegrapher.
The only player who couldn’t make it was Marc who played contrabass, alto and soprano saxophone last Sunday.
We need to prepare
The band warms up on the aft cockpit click to enlargeNotes to self: Check ship’s stores and wine cellar.
Peroni lager and white wine into the fridge. Red wine out of the bilge where it’s kept cool. London Pride (real ale) at the ready. Pastis in store, but out of whiskey. Must buy some.
For refreshments, we agree a version of stuffed eggs and plenty of nibbles. No time for anything else.
A walk to the small Carrefort in La Fôret Fouesnant secures said stores. Now to cooking.
The evening
At 7pm, the band begin arriving. All squeeze onto the aft cockpit. First problem – Play d’eau mains supply is through UK sockets. Not French. Alain runs back to his yacht to secure the extension leads and adaptors.
With everyone plugged in the warm up starts. Banjo and tenor sax tune to an A and the others follow. All set?
And off they go. Play d’eau rocks, not so much to the music but to the wakes other boats make as they pass. I announce sick bags are available.
Complete success
Jean-Aubert, band leader and retired heart surgeon, played guitar and banjo click to enlargeAfter some 10 pieces, it’s time to relax and for the band to sample British real ale, Italian lager, Scotch whiskey, Gordon’s Gin, Waitrose orange squash, and Play d’eau ice from Guernsey water.
Lin brings out the stuffed eggs on melba toast which disappear as fast as she can refill the tray. We’d used 14 eggs….
As the band departs amongst fond farewells and threats of making Piers play clarinet next year, we are left with the most magnificent memories possible.
We wonder if a jazz band has ever played on a Fleming before?
Piers and Lin
from the Green Room of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
(click on the photos below to enlarge, and use the left/right arrows)
The beautiful snow white Little Egret click to enlargeA small sound made me look up. An Egret was stalking its dinner in the shallows on the other side of the pontoon. Only a few metres away from me.
What’s for supper?
Slowly and stealthily feeling its way in the shallow of the water’s edge, it would waggle its feet in the sand to stir up anything that might be hiding.
And then it would strike. So fast.
Why here?
Behind Port la Fôret marina is a large brackish lake, home to many migrating sea birds. As the tide ebbs a muddy, sandy expanse is exposed attracting many Heron, Egrets and Terns, all stalking their supper.
The Herons wait, immobile, striking with precision whilst the Terns circle overhead, their short squeaks announcing they’re hunting. In an instant they’ll make a steep turn, fold their wings, dive and plunge with a soft ‘splosh’ into the shallow water, only to fly away a second or so later having gulped their supper. It’s all over in a flash of time.
Little Egret
The Little Egret’s outstandingly beautiful snowy white plumage contrasts with its slim black beak, black legs and yellow feet. Although a member of the heron family, the Little Egret is literally little, growing to only 26″ tall when fully adult.
And yes, he found three fish before flying off.
Piers and Lin
from the Hide of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
(click on the photos below to enlarge, and use the left/right arrows)
Alain Duhaut, trumpeter of the Cornouaille Jazz Band click to enlarge‘Concert at Port La Fôret, Sunday at 16 hours in the same place of there 2 years.’
Alain Duhaut sent me this email just as we leaving Audierne. Alain’s the trumpeter of the Cornouaille Jazz Band which we had the great pleasure of hearing two years ago.
So how exciting is that? His band was going to play again at Port la Fôret – and we’d be there. Quelle coïncidence.
Coast Guard
‘Play d’eau, Play d’eau, Play d’eau, this is Cross Étel. Over.’
We were on passage from Audierne and an hour from Port la Fôret. Why would the Coast Guard be calling me? Cautiously, I responded.
‘What is your destination?’ I was asked. ‘Port la Fôret, over.’ ‘Play d’eau, do you know a M. Alain Duhaut?’ ‘Oui,’ I said, even more cautiously this time. ‘M. Duhaut wants you to know he is monitoring your progress on AIS and will greet you when you arrive.’
The Coastguard relaying personal messages? Wow. But how totally brilliant of Alain.
Arrival
Play d’eau was berthed alongside the bandstand. Perfect. click to enlargeOn arrival, we were allocated pontoon R just outside the marina. I was about to question this decision when I realised Pontoon R would place us directly opposite the band stand and only 20m away. Did I sense Alan’s hand in this?
We were just finishing putting Play d’eau to bed after the passage when a trumpet played God Save the Queen, followed by the Marseillaise.
‘Alain!’ both Lin and I shouted as we jumped off the boat to very warm greetings.
The day arrived
With my camera rolling, the Cornouaille Jazz Band began. For two hours, the audience was rapt and children danced. We were gloriously entertained by the six enthusiastic players.
I’ll let the photos tell all.
Piers and Lin
from the recording studio of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
(click on the photos below to enlarge, and use the left/right arrows)
The final act of defiance – a dramatic downpour click to enlargeWe knew we were in for a week of strong winds. That’s why we’d kept moving.
The NE F6/7 had been relentless, howling across Audierne ever since we arrived accompanied mostly by strong sunshine with the occasional spot of rain.
But the weather was no match for Play d’eau. She was becoming uneasy and wanting to move on with her holiday. Play d’eau won, of course.
The weather suddenly gave in and the wind dropped, yet in the same way as a teenager mumbles after being told off, the blue skies were replaced by grey cloud as a warm front moved overhead and a gentle rainfall began.
As the door slammed in the final show of defiance, a sudden heavy downpour was the final flourish of ‘I don’t care’ before leaving the stage to a grey sky and no wind as evening fell to night.
We’d leave tomorrow, mid-morning.
Hydraulic leaks
The blue oil spill from the port stabiliser ram click to enlargeAnnoyingly, we’d found two hydraulic leaks associated with the port stabilser. The first was from a seal on the ram and the second was a weep on a gear oil feed pipe connection. Contacting Golden Arrow, the European distributor, we began discussing options with their stabiliser guru, Brian George. As far as continuing the cruise we could simply immobilise the port fin but continue using the starboard fin.
That would be fine provided there wasn’t a sudden increase in leakage so we needed to plan for Brian to attend Play d’eau in La Rochelle or sooner. It would be a day’s work.
Au revoir, Audierne
We awoke early. Although it was misty it was ‘good to go’. The wind was calm.
Piers bought the croissants, took some final photos, visited le propriétaire de la cave d’Audierne (from whom we’d bought an outstanding Armagnac and Alsace dessert wine), and the Harbour Monster to say, ‘Au Revoir’, and we cast off at 1115 just as the sun appeared.
En route
An unhappy house near the entrance to Port la Forét click to enlargeCompletely uneventful. Calm seas, a warm sun and a gentle breeze from the SW helping us along.
Working with a single stabiliser fin was fine. Not as precise, but perfectly acceptable. Mind you, the sea was kind today.
Nav data
Times are FST.
Departed Audierne: 1115, 12 June 2015
Pinchpoints: Access over the sand bars at the entrances to Audierne and Port la Fôret
Arrived Port la Fôret: 1620
Time en route: 5hr 5min
Planned distance: 39nm
Tech issues:
With no return of the previously reported vibration, the Tech Log entry was altered to ‘resolved’
The oil leak from the port Trac stabiliser ram is concerning. Discussions are ongoing with the European agents, Golden Arrow
Piers and Lin
from the navigation table of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
Dawn breaks over Audierne click to enlargeOh how we love this small, unspoiled, market fishing town which has no pretensions or modern glamour to smother its original reality. Thankfully, the long arm of ‘Progress’ has kept its destructive hands away from Audierne.
Meanwhile, the town’s extensive shell fish industry has kept it firmly on the haute cuisine map by serving much of France with fresh crab, lobster, langoustine, sardines and line-caught fish.
You can imagine the excitement when notices outside Audierne wet fish shops declare ‘Langoustines Vivante – arrive à 19 heures ce soir’. Queues grow long.
Similar to St Peter Port
In a way, the town looks similar to St Peter Port before its marinas were created. The fishing fleet moors against the long sea wall which fronts the town’s road with its shops, houses and the Le Goyen 3 star Hotel. More houses line the small hill behind, all with slate roofs. The marina has been added at the end.
She needed a bath
After six hours, we finished cleaning and had a drink click to enlargeHaving travelled from Beaucette in not the best of seas, Play d’eau was covered in salt and needed a good bath.
Jason, who cleans and polishes Play d’eau regularly, had been a good tutor. ‘A good soapy bath at least once a week and a good coat of carnuba wax polish every two months. Do the upper deck one month, and the lower deck the next.’ Yes, Jason.
Having arrived in the early morning from Camaret, we started just after lunch. Six hours later, she’d had her (very) soapy bath, all over, been rinsed down and chamois leather dried. She looked good, really good. We broke out the Peroni and quaffed on the aft deck in hot sunshine.
Bas Armagnac and…
The sign read ‘De Vigne en Vin’ and pointed to a side road. Once inside the Cave, fine wines were beautifully laid out in three cool cellars. The last had an array of Armagnac.
After many tastings, resistance was low and we just had to buy a very fine Armagnac, didn’t we?The cellars of De Vigne en Vin d’Audierne click to enlargeBeing fully in the spirit of the event we began tasting dessert wines. An Alsace from the Gewurztraminer grape stood out. It would have been ungracious of us not to buy it and find an excuse to drink it.
A treat
Having had an unexpectedly good dinner served with beautiful French elegance in the 3 star Hotel Goyen two years ago, we booked a return treat.
The surroundings hadn’t changed. A light grey décor, wallpaper on the doors, white starched table cloths and waitresses who seemed to flow and glide rather than walk.
Whilst consuming glasses (note the plural) of champagne, we studied the menu. With Lin choosing lobster for a main course the Maître d’hôtel returned with three live local specimens displayed on a silver salver. Pointing to one of them, Lin said, ‘Emile, please.’
An excellent bottle of Sancerre accompanied six local No 3 oysters, crab meat rolled in thin slices of raw white fish, and langoustine tails (raw) in a delightful soya and lentil broth. Emile, gently roasted, and a sea bass poached in a fennel vegetable stock, followed. With no room for anything else, Piers paid the bill and knocked his expresso all over the table cloth.Le Goyen 3 star Hotel click to enlargeWithout doubt, the stars were the lobster and sea bass. It’s rare to find fish so beautifully prepared and both were simply magnificent. And now for the ‘but’: if there was any criticism, it was that the accompaniments on the dishes were dark brown or grey and somewhat dull. They needed the next level of brightening with colour and burst of flavour.
A day trip to Quimper
Being such a small marina, mainly for privately owned fishing and sailing boats, there’s only room for a handful of visitors on the hammerheads. Given its size there’s no marina wi-fi (wee-fee) so visits to the local bars and cafés for Chocolat Chaud or Cidre Pression were necessary. Quelle domage.
On the other hand, if we had a mobile wi-fi extender as we did in South Africa, we might be able to save the not inconsiderable amount we were spending on cidre.
On a dull and chilly day, we took the hour long bus journey to Quimper (yes, Piers went on a bus…). We found the Orange emporium next to the Cathédrale Saint-Corentin de Quimper. €85 later, we had a 4G Orange Let’s Go (pay as you go) Airbox and credit valid for six months. Will it work?
Time to depart
And now we must make ready to depart for Port la Fôret tomorrow, 12 June 2015.
Piers and Lin
from the saloon of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
A Bas Armagnac magnifique click to enlarge
An equally magnifique Alsace dessert wine click to enlarge
Cathédrale Saint-Corentin de Quimper began construction in the 1200s click to enlarge
An interesting roof line click to enlarge
The Catherdral’s Last Supper window click to enlarge
Glorious back streets of ages untold click to enlarge
It was Alain, the trumpeter from the Cornouaille Jazz Band! He’d arrived in St Peter Port from Port La Forêt in his 6m yacht and could we meet.
Parking on St Peter Port’s Victoria Pier there was no mistaking Alain’s bright red yacht. He told me that 40 years ago his father had sailed with him to Guernsey in this very yacht.
Not having been back in all that time, he felt it was right to make the pilgrimage and at the same to meet Lin and I again.
An audience
After some delicious Breton Cidre, Alain produced his piccolo trumpet. ‘Just for you,’ he said.Alain played on the back of Play d’eau… click to enlargeAlain played and played, ending with the British National Anthem. Cries of ‘Encore’ and ‘Bravo’ came from the impromptu audience that had gathered on the adjacent piers.
A visit to Play d’eau
The next day, Alain joined us on board Play d’eau. Jason, a Frenchman who lives in Guernsey and keeps his yacht, Bullet, next to us, joined the party to ensure we didn’t miss any conversation.
Lin had made some delicious canapés, and with bottles of Guernsey cider we toasted Port la Forêt and the Cornouaille Jazz Band. When the cider was exhausted, rosé appeared.
Before leaving, Alain produced his trumpet again declaring it was only right to play on Play d’eau, in Beaucette.
Alain played his heart out. His piccolo trumpet echoing around the Beaucette’s quarry walls. Again, an audience appeared. After many encores, it was, sadly, time to go.
A two-way promise
…and the whole of Beaucette was rewarded click to enlargeWe promised to return to Port la Forêt and in return Alain promised to bring his band to play on Play d’eau en masse.
One condition. Breton Cidre.
Piers and Lin
from the bandstand of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
Alain, the band’s Trumpeter emailed to say the group would like to perform on Play d’eau click to enlargeWith Port La Forêt having no space for us on our return from Port Louis in Lorient, we had to forgo a treat we’d been looking forward to so much, for two months.
You may have seen the post we made about the Cornouaille Jazz Band. It was an unexpected delight to see them perform when we visited Port La Forêt on the south-bound leg of our cruise down the west coast of France in June.
We’ll meet again
Following our visit I was contacted by trumpeter Alain who graciously emailed me saying how much the group had liked the photos I had taken and given them before we left. Alain continued the email exchange by saying that if we returned to Port La Forêt the band would like to come and perform for us on Play d’eau!
How brilliant would that be? What major fun! We’d find a way to fit them on. Some in the aft cockpit, some on the flybridge roof – we’d make it work.
We were so looking forward to this and were planning to stock up with Pastis, biere et Cidre Breton.
Jazz on Play d’eau
Jazz on Play d’eau was bound to turn into a major pontoon party as well. There would be riot of boaters from all over the marina converging on the pontoon to see and hear the group. Raises the question of how many boaters does it take to sink a pontoon?
But it was not to be. Port La Forêt was full.
Maybe, just maybe
Our exploration of the west coast of France has shown us just how glorious and special this part of France is. So much so that we are considering whether to change our 2014 plans from the Baltic to another exploration of France. So much more to see and do.
Would Port La Forêt would have room for us next year? We wonder, we dream.
Meanwhile, our thanks must go to Alain and the Cornouaille Jazz Band for their kindness and willingness.
Piers and Lin
From the Saloon of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
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These were the voyages of Piers and Lin du Pré aboard their Fleming 55
