Tag Archives: Les Sables d’Olonne

Cruising

Leg 15 (2015) – Les Sables d’Olonne to Pornichet

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The day we left, the sunrise was setting the town on fire
click to enlarge
The decision was taken to make as much headway north as reasonably possible.

Northwards Ho!

After nine days in Les Sables d’Olonne of wintry cold, windy and rainy days, we had an ETD of 0700. We knew the westerly swell would be a short and steep 1½m for the first two hours but it would gradually diminish as we passed between Île d’Yeu and the mainland, destination Pornichet.

With a gentle NW2, at 0707 we quietly singled the warps, removed shore power, started Play d’eau’s Cummins engines, edged out of the Olona marina and into the fairway with a glorious sunrise and her early morning light warm on our backs.

Olona marina

Given the negative comments we’d heard about the Olona marina, we’d always chosen to stay at Quai Garnier. This time, we visited Olona simply because of our previous experience of excessive and endless noise and copious quantities of dirt at Quai Garnier, earlier this trip.

Contrary to hearsay, we found Olona peaceful and clean. We had an excellent berth (A46) and the Super U was only a five minutes walk away.

It’s sad, since Quai Garnier’s Harbour Master, Wesley, and his assistant, Plaideau, were so helpful. So would we return to Quai Garnier? Yes, but we’d have to say provided noise levels had dropped and the dirt from offloading cargo vessels had significantly decreased.

En Route

The modern, smart Olona Marina Capitainerie
click to enlarge
Almost as soon as we exited the pierheads and turned west and north west to round the town of Les Sables, the swell made its presence known. Play d’eau and her crew nodded up and down in a somewhat exuberant manner for the next two hours until we were running up the coast between Île d’Yeu and the mainland.

Knowing this is where we almost hooked a net two years ago, we doubled our watch. True to form, we spotted a net just below the surface with only two white markers some 500m apart.

Play d’eau performed a tight pirouette of which the London Ballet would have been proud, missed the net and plotted her way around it whilst we breathed a sigh of relief.

Grand Rade de La Loire

By the time we came to the Grand Rade there was only the slightest breath of wind and the swell was exhausted. It was calm. For a bit of excitement, our track took us through 14 anchored cargo vessels the largest of which was the SCF Valdai at 237m.

Pornichet

The final approach to Pornichet was through a yacht race which for some reason was being held tight across the marina and its S-bend entrance. Tough, Play d’eau was constrained by draught in the narrow channel and racing offers no additional rights of way.

Without incident, comment or raised voice, we entered the marina and settled into our berth.

Met data

We woke to find this cargo vessel on the other side of the marina. Was it capsized?
click to enlarge
Les Sables d’Olonne: NW2, clear, good
Sea state: 1½m steep westerly swell becoming smooth
Pornichet: Clear skies, NW1

Nav data

Times are FST.

Date: 30 July 2015
Departed Les Sables: 0707 (7 minutes late – call of nature)
Arrived Pornichet: 1432
Pinchpoint: None
Longest leg: 21.7nm
Time en route: 7hr 25min
Planned distance: 61.6nm

Tech issues: Nil

Piers and Lin
from the Pilot House of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

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Cruising

Ambushed by the weather

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8am this morning, and endless black clouds and high winds assail us
click to enlarge
Own up – who turned our brilliant weather off?

The 6 weeks following our departure from Audierne on 12th June have been utterly glorious. Sun cream by the gallon (well, not quite), calm seas and blue skies, all courtesy of a friendly Azores high pressure system spreading its wings over Play d’eau. It was perfect.

But the moment John and Beryl left nine days ago, we’ve had thunder storms and high winds created by an endless march of depression after depression which have won the battle and sent the high pressure running.

Where now?

Good question. So far we’ve been holed up in Les Sables d’Olonne for six days and the first weather window seems to be next Thursday. If so, we’ll have been in Les Sables for nine days when we only intended one.

Our plan had been to visit Île d’Yeu, Pornic, Roche Bernard in the La Vilaine River, anchor off one of the beautiful, small islands of the Quiberon Peninsula, moving onto Lorient, the Glénans archipelago known as the Breton Tahiti, and finally Port la Fôret before heading for Camaret on the Finistère Peninsula on or around 9th August.

Looking further into the forecasts brings even more depressions. Growl.

Battle plan

Well, two can play at this weather game. So, planning for the worst, rather than seven stops en route to Camaret with time off to play at each, we’ll do it in three. Pornichet, Lorient and Sainte Marine, taking any available weather window.

Meanwhile, if another high pressure graces us with its presence and banishes the depressions, we’ll stay and play. If it doesn’t, at least we know ‘the plan’.

You see, there’s always next year….

Piers and Lin
from the Meteorological Observatory of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

Cruising

Leg 14 (2015) – St Martin de Ré to Les Sables d’Olonne

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St Martin de Ré marina, taken from our quadcopter
click to enlarge
John and Beryl’s fortnight of cruising on Play d’eau had come to an end.

Amidst tears, damp handkerchiefs and endless wavings, the taxi drove slowly down the road, over the roundabout and on to La Rochelle’s airport. We stood a while, looking, and hoping beyond hope that the taxi would turn around and come back.

You see, John and Beryl are accepted as part of the family. We recognise this, my parents recognised this, as do our children. Family occasions of all sorts just wouldn’t be the same if John and Beryl weren’t there.

That’s why it was so hard to say goodbye.

St Martin de Ré

Surrounded by its early 17th Century fortifications originally designed by Cardinal Richelieu and later strengthened by Vauban, the small town of St Martin on the Île de Ré gleams with worn pavements, small alleyways adorned with hollyhocks, and square stone buildings with blue shutters and roofs of old, warm orange Mediterranean tiles.

A moat surrounds the fort’s inner sanctum half of which is locked to form the marina. No longer a citadel, the inner sanctum is now a few small street cafés and shops. St Martin de Ré is abuzz with life.

The weather changed

The small town is a maze of alleyways adorned with Hollyhocks
click to enlarge
Almost as soon as John and Beryl left, the weather changed.

Winds increased and the seas began to deliver a short, marked swell. Temperatures dropped and the humidity rose uncomfortably high.

The next two nights saw lightning and dramatic thunder storms bringing rain laden with copious amounts of dirt and dust held suspended for these last many weeks. Play d’eau became filthy and needed another one of her soapy bubble baths.

Where now?

Given only Lin and I were on board, it was quiet. No exciting tastings of the challenge to find a drinkable red wine as close to €2 as possible (it was €1 nine years ago); John wasn’t there to raise or strike the ensign at the correct times (two alarm clocks as reminders), or to source morning croissants. The list goes on. As I said, it was quiet.

Interestingly, it didn’t seem to matter where we went now. We couldn’t make our minds up. We found ourselves saying, ‘John and Beryl would have loved…’

The option was either Les Sables d’Olonne (again) or the beautiful, small Île d’Yeu. With the weather closing in our feeling of adventure was at a low ebb. We chose the safe option of Les Sables, but to use the Olona marina rather than Quai Garnia.

Our homeward journey northwards had to start.

Our last night

Having had such a great meal at Les Embruns with John and Beryl we had to return before leaving.

Welcomed back by the Chef to this small, boutique restaurant with its 13 tables, we had another magnificent meal. Some of the most adventurous and exciting cooking we’d had in years. We tried calling John and Beryl to share the fun. The calls went unanswered.

En route

The crew of this white, British yacht was fast asleep on the deck in their sleeping bags
click to enlarge
The lock gate opened at 7am, but a large, white, British wooden yacht was in the way. We couldn’t bring ourselves to wake the young crew so fast asleep on the deck in their sleeping bags. It was two hours before they woke and moved the yacht, allowing us to motor gently out of the marina into the moat and out of the fortifications.

Being sheltered by the island, the sea was flat. A number of shoals of sardines were creating energetic ruffles on the surface. We wondered what was chasing them for their breakfast.

As we neared the north of the island the swell rose and the ride became uncomfy.

Nearing Les Sables, the numerous trawlers and small fishing boats which inhabit (plague?) this area appeared on the radar.

Checking into Olona’s Capitainerie we were given one of the best moorings in this large but quiet marina.

Where next- and when?

The weather has certainly changed. The wind and swell are both high angered by a series of tight depressions ganging up against the west coast. The forecast shows we could be stuck in Les Sables for well over a week.

So where next? We have no idea. We may end up making an unsightly dash up the west coast and around the Finistère Peninsula to be in Roscoff for the 19 August where we hope to pick up our next guest, David, whom we’ve known since the early 1970s. We’ll see.

Met data

Les Embruns served some of the most exciting and adventurous food we’ve had in years
click to enlarge
St Martin de Ré: NW2, 8/8 cloud (stratus), good, calm with a swell
Sea state: 1½m swell from the west
Les Sables d’Olonne: Clear skies, NW3

Nav data

Times are FST.

Date: 21 July 2015
Departed St Martin de Ré: 0920
Arrived Les Sables d’Olonne: 1242
Pinchpoint: St Martin lock times
Longest leg: 17.5nm
Time en route: 3hr 22min
Planned distance: 25.9nm

Tech issues: Nil

Piers and Lin
from the Pilot House of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

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Leg 8 (2015) – Les Sables d’Olonne to La Rochelle

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Dawn breaks over Les Sables d’Olonne
click to enlarge
It was Sunday morning. We’d slept well. The endless succession of trawlers that passed by the marina en route to the busy 24hr Maritime Cooperative auction market at the end of the port had taken the weekend off. Well, almost all of them.

In their place, the Saturday night revellers had tried but failed in their attempt to compete, thankfully.

Quai Garnier

During our six days in Quai Garnier we’d cleaned and polished Play d’eau, eaten at our favourite restaurant Le Clipper and attended to many cabin and the engine room housekeeping chores. With John and Beryl coming on 3 July to spend two weeks cruising with us, Play d’eau had to look her very best.

To our delight, boaters we’d met along this coastal region with its beaches of golden sand two years ago seemed to materialise during our stay. So Play d’eau just had to host an early evening party, didn’t she? Lin created some delicious Canapés whilst I created (well, bought) the wines and beers.

Paul from Rowena was in Les Sables and filled my dive tank. I knew Paul and Sue from MBM Cruise in Company days
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Rowena, a Grand Banks that used to come with us on Motor Boat Monthly cruises in company was there as well. Paul and Sue

In addition, great evenings were spent on board Harvester (Glyn and Pat) and Stress Breaker (Nick and Rhona), and a breakfast of pain au chocolat and excellent coffee was consumed with gusto on Deo Jubilate with Trevor and Gill.

We had a wonderful time in Quai Garnier, even though the trawlers motored past us 24 hours a day, refuelled and re-iced opposite our pontoon whilst squadrons of seagulls never seemed to cease their incessant war cry….

Plaideau? Play d’eau?

Would you believe the Harbour Master’s assistant is known to her friends as Plaideau? Can you imagine the fun on the radio? ‘Play d’eau, this is Plaideau, over?’

Leaving Sables d’Olonne

Skipper Lin piloted Play d’eau from the fly bridge
click to enlarge
With checks complete, we were ready to go but the washing machine delayed out departure. A neighbouring boat had allowed their dog to pee on the pontoon cleats and the last thing we wanted was dog pee ropes. So we singled up ready to go, stood guard, and put the infected ropes in the washing machine – with an overdose of powder and fabric softener.

Hence, we left 14 minutes late, but we had beautifully white, soft ‘dog pee free’ ropes that had a fresh wonderful laundry aroma about them.

En route

Sandy beaches and good fishing are the hallmarks of Sables d’Olonne. So for the first ten miles, we threaded our way through endless lobster pots and small fishing boats whilst dodging trawlers with their long nets on even longer wire cables.

Nearing La Rochelle, we navigated between the mainland and the small Ile de Ré before passing under the 2.9km bridge which spans the island and La Rochelle.

As we approached la Rochelle, we saw a sad looking face under a ‘witch’s hat’
click to enlarge
Turning into the strait that leads to La Rochelle, the water became quite choppy and Play d’eau seemed to became a moving target for speedboats, water skis and boats rushing to find an anchorage on the already crowded Ile de Ré beaches. That’s apart from the many flotillas of tiny sail boats racing across the fairway.

Arrival

Access to the Les Chalutiers basin is through a single lock gate above which a short bridge carries a road. The gate is opened 2hrs before high water and closes 45 minutes thereafter.

With the gate open, we only had to wait for ten minutes before the siren sounded, the traffic stopped and the bridge lifted.

Having moored up, we found a yacht we’d met in Sables d’Olonne was opposite us, a Guernsey registered yacht was behind us as well as a huge Explorer Yacht, Med Adventure.

To bless Play d’eau, we found our mooring was on the Quai d’Honneur.

Of course!

Met data

Les Sables d’Olonne: Wind calm, clear skies, good visibility
En route: Wind became WNW F3
Sea state: Glassy flat, to smooth, to ruffled at La Rochelle
La Rochelle: NW3, mainly due to local sea breeze. Clear skies, good vis.

Nav data

The heavily fortified entrance to the ancient town of La Rochelle and its port
click to enlarge
Times are FST.

Departed Les Sables d’Olonne (Quay Garnier): 0914, 28 June 2015
(14 minutes late waiting for the washing machine to complete its cycle!)
Arrived La Rochelle (Les Chalutiers): 1356
(26 mins late due to late lock gate opening)
Pinchpoint: Lock times at Les Chalutiers
Longest individual leg: 13.7nm
Time en route: 4hr 22min
Planned distance: 34.3nm

Tech issues: None

Piers and Lin
from the Chart Table of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

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Cruising

Leg 7 (2015) – Pornichet to Les Sables d’Olonne

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Play d’eau sets out for another lovely day of cruising
click to enlarge
It was the Festival of Music, ‘a speciality’ we were told. What we didn’t know was that it started late evening and ended early morning.

It’s official

We’re well and truly addicted. Yet another day of flat calm seas, blue skies and calm winds. Even dodging lobster pots is becoming fun – who can see the next one, first?

Pornichet

Two days ago, the question was whether our destination was to be Pornic or Pornichet. Two years ago it was Pornic and it has to be said that although the village was lovely we found the marina oppressive. Having never visited Pornichet before, Pornichet it was.

Approaching along the 2nm channel, Pornichet’s lovely, long and golden beach was to the north of us, equally as long as the channel. But sadly, immediately behind the beach is an equally long line of multi-floored high rise ‘modern’ apartments.

Dawn lights up the high rise apartments on Pornichet’s lovely beach
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What a marina! Coping with large boats, pontoons are large and the fingers are super long. Long enough for Play d’eau to have almost no overhang. Never known that before. We moored in ‘Oscar 13’, stern too, amongst other large and larger (but not quite as shiny) boats.

Walking to the Capitainerie, cars were parked everywhere. Range Rover after Range Rover, Porsche Cayenne after Porsche Cayenne, BMWs with no model numbers, their tyres seemingly wider than the cars themselves. Definitely no Sparkys.

Cafés line the long marina front rubbing shoulders with chandlers, marine engineering and bodywork specialists. Pornichet’s more a marina town than a marina.

‘But you have come at the right time,’ we were told. ‘It’s Music Festival week.’ I have to say we found it hard to exhibit as much excitement as the bearer of these tidings.

En route

After two bad nights, we woke early and cast off at 7am. Bad nights? The Music Festival started at 10pm in the marina cafés and ended around 2am. Thud, thud, thud from the over-amplified bass. Oh joy!

Looking behind us, we saw a huge moustache heading for us…
click to enlarge
But the passage was brilliant. Smooth as ever. So much so that Piers set to with continuing Play d’eau’s polishing regime.

(Message for Jason – since we left, Play d’eau’s had two full snow-foam washes, and we’ve almost finished a total polishing.)

Arrival

‘Quai Garnier. Ici Play d’eau,’ I said in my best French accent on channel 09. ‘Play d’eau, this is Quai Garnier,’ said the Capitaine in perfect English. ‘We have a place for you on pontoon A. I am here with your two friends from Yacht Harvester to greet you.’

It can’t get much better than this, can it?

Met data

Pornichet: NE1/2, clear skies, good visibility
En route: Wind backed to NW3
Sea state: Calm, glassy flat to ruffled
Les Sables d’Olonne: W3/4, mainly due to local sea breeze. Clear skies, good vis.

Nav data

...the boat jumped our wake, and the skipper waved
…the boat jumped our wake, and the skipper waved
click to enlarge
Times are FST.

Departed Pornichet: 0700, 22 June 2015
Arrived Les Sables d’Olonne (Quay Garnier): 1451 (16 mins ahead of schedule – must plan better!)
Pinchpoints: None
Longest individual leg: 21.7nm
Time en route: 7hr 51min
Planned distance: 61.2nm

Tech issues: None

Piers and Lin
from the Chart Table of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

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Cruising

Leg 15 – Les Sables d’Olonne to Pornic – 15 August 2013

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A lovely calm sea for the cruise to Pornic
click to enlarge
Looking forward to another FLIR experience, we cast off from Quai Garnier’s pontoon A ‘exterieur’ and headed into the black an hour and a half before sunrise, destination Pornic in the départment Loire Atlantique, some 60nm to the North.

Even with clear skies there was no moon. Maybe, because today’s a French public holiday, apparently something to do with Napoleon being officially recognised as a ‘good egg’, the moon had taken its own day (or night) as an Astronomic public holiday.

The nav plan

The pinch point was the latest time we could safely enter Pornic given the continuous silting it suffers in its approach channel.

I’d called the Capitainerie and Mademoiselle said she’d reserve a place for us. ‘Have you been here before?’ I was asked. ‘You must stay close to the rouge, the red channel markers, where it’s OK for you.’

We planned the north bound route to go anti-clockwise around the outside of the reefs surrounding Île de Noirmoutier rather than risk cutting through the narrow gap at its southern extremity and the mainland. Numerous published warnings advise not trying and although that to me is like a red rag to a bull, I agreed.

The route kept us some 5nm off the coast but there were large areas where the seabed rose to within the 10m depth contour. That would mean pots, lots of pots, and dozens of fishermen in their Merry Fishers hoping for a fresh catch for lunch and always somehow being directly in our way.

We weren’t to be disappointed.

The weather

With a gentle wind mainly from the E, and flat calm seas, we were completely protected by the land. The skies were clear, no moon (have I mentioned that?), and the visibility was perfect.

Our new Furuno FAR2117 picks up pots so well. The 4 strong returns ahead and port were pots, the three small light yellow returns ahead were gulls, and the long blue trail pointing 030 degrees was a helicopter we tracked doing 69kts
click to enlarge

The journey

The moment we passed over the 10m contour, pots were everywhere with clusters of ten being common. However, in the main they were well flagged and visible.

But deceptive. On this, our 15th passage since we left Guernsey, we came across our first net. At first, it looked like two more clusters of pot markers about 300m apart. Aiming to pass between them we saw, too late, a line of small white floats, maybe 10cm diameter and each 30m apart.

‘Net!’ I shouted as I pulled the throttles to idle and the gears to neutral. ‘Watch the floats as we go over them,’ I called to Lin.

We coasted and waited. Would I have to dive to cut ourselves free? Would our rope cutters work? I waited as Lin watched from the side of the Pilot House.

After an age, Lin shouted, ‘Looks like they’re not following us – we’re OK.’ I waited a few more moments just to be sure before engaging the gears and opening the throttles again. We’d had our first ‘net experience’.

Not knowing how nets are cast, I suspect each float has a line which suspends the net a few metres below the surface. We’d passed over the top.

Cruising up the west coast of Île de Noirmoutier it was just about high tide giving us some 4.5m above chart datum, confirmed by comparing the depth sounder against a sounding on the chart and the embedded local tide tables in our Furuno nn3d chartplotter.

‘If you’re OK with cutting the north western corner and passing through the reef, we’ll do it,’ I said the Lin. Looking at the chart, the calm sea and perfect visibility, the only issue would be pots and the fishermen. ‘We can dodge the pots, and for the fishermen we have Kahlenbergs – they don’t – and a black water tank,’ I added.

Sadly, we didn’t have to use the horns, not even once, but cutting the corner saved some 3.5nm and 25 minutes, putting us exactly on the best time to arrive at Pornic.

Dozens of small boats were out fishing over a
shoal bank just N of Île de Noirmoutier
click to enlarge

Arriving

Leaving Île de Noirmoutier behind we entered the Baie de Bourgneuf of the Grande Rade de la Loire, and headed ENE straight for Pornic.

Pornic looked lovely. Large, beautiful villas lined the coast. Mature pine trees were everywhere, from which it earned its name of the Jade Coast.

Keeping close to the red port hand channel markers, we entered the marina and saw Mademoiselle in her dory waiting to take us to our berth. Perfect.

We intend to stay here a few days giving us plenty of time to explore.

The tecky details

Departed Les Sables d’Olonne – 0536
Arrived Pornic – 1249
Time on passage – 7hr 13min
Total planned distance – 59.9nm
Tides: Neap
Longest leg – 21.7nm from Basse Vermenou to Pont d’Yeu SCM
Tech issues – nil
Incidents – 1. The net.

Piers and Lin
From the Nav Table of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.

Cruising

When do we return to Guernsey?

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Calm seas as the sun rose
taken from the saloon on leaving St Martin de Ré
click to enlarge
Whilst moored in Port Garnier marina, Les Sables d’Olonne, thinking or our return plans to Guernsey, local trawlers of all sizes pass us by heading for their cooperative some 300m beyond the marina.

Since they bring fresh catch every moment of the day, we really don’t mind the noise or being tossed around by their wakes since the cooperative’s huge Poisonnerie displays the most amazing range of fresh fish and crustacea you can imagine.

None of this “it has to be sent to Grimbsy to be irradiated and tested for foot and mouth (or whatever it is)”. Straight from the sea to Play d’eau’s galley. What could possibly be better?

So what are the plans to return to Guernsey?

So, our plan is to be back in Guernsey by the end of September.

To achieve this, there are two possible neap tide windows in which to navigate the Brest peninsula and its Raz de Sein and Chenal du Four, namely the 31 August and 14 September.

Whichever we take, we’ll spend the remainder of the time exploring Brittany’s north coast before heading for Jersey to meet Graham and Francis of yacht Woolly Mammoth and finally heading home to Beaucette Marina.

Piers and Lin
from the Nav Table of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.

Cruising

Leg 14 – St Martin de Ré to Les Sables d’Olonne – 11 August 2013

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Ian and Wendy on their Moody 422 bound for the Caribbean
click to enlarge
A UNESCO World Heritage site, St Martin is Île de Ré’s historic capital and ancient port surrounded by the citadel.

Small, old, full of history, buzzing with life. We cherished our time there.

You have to live the dream

Ian and Wendy’s Moody 422 yacht, Silver Slipper, was moored directly behind us. Having met in March 2012 and married in April 2013, they are gradually making their way to Las Palmas to take the ARC to the Caribbean.

‘We’ll cruise the hundreds of Caribbean islands until we feel it’s time to move on to the Pacific through the Panama Canal.

‘You have to live the dream – you must live the dream,’ emphasised Ian, ‘so we’ve sold everything to make it happen while we can.’

Watch the video of their departure from the UK bound initially for Guernsey, complete with their dog, Bumble.

Play d’eau makes a graceful stage exit

‘Living the dream’ captured as the sun rose behind us
click to enlarge
With clear skies, a calm wind and the temperature already in the mid-twenties, it would be another perfect day for Play d’eau.

Ten minutes before our 0800 ETD we still had two 53’ motor boats and three yachts rafted against us. With one foot clearance behind, we were hemmed in by two boats in front, our bows in the gap between them by six feet.

At ETD plus ten they’d all moved and we cast off. We sidled, went forward a few feet and finally swung Play d’eau’s stern out and towards the lock, gracefully reversing out of the marina as though making a stage exit after the final curtain call.

The nav plan

Only one pinch point today, and that was the opening time of the St Martin lock. Not a problem, and given the travel time to Les Sables d’Olonne was only some three hours we’d arrive before lunch when hopeully there’d still be a space for us at the Quai Garnier port.

The Journey

The radar screen erupted with yellow targets as we neared Les Sables d’Olonne (30 second trails in blue)
click to enlarge
A really gentle and calm crossing with the fun beginning in the last few miles when the radar erupted with a rash of yellow targets as the world appeared to be out on their boats. There were dozens and dozens, everywhere.

Arriving

As planned, there was space for us on pontoon A, but within an hour of mooring up (and Lin having hosed Play d’eau down) boats were being turned away.

The tecky details

Departed St Martin de Re – 0810
Arrived Les Sables d’Olonne – 1141
Total distance – 25.8nm
Longest leg – 17.5nm from Les Islattes NCM to Bourgenay SWM
Tech issues – nil

Piers and Lin
from the Nav Table of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.

We overhung the boats in front by 6 feet and had five boats rafted against us
click to enlarge
Only 1 foot clearance between us and Silver Slipper
click to enlarge
Cruising

Leg 10 – Les Sables d’Olonne to La Rochelle – 18 July 2013

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Pre-dawn long-range pic of Les Sables tralwers off-loading their night’s catch
click to enlarge
As dawn was preparing to make her golden appearance to grace another red hot day, there was just enough light to see the trawlers off-loading their night’s catch at the maritime cooperative.

La Rochelle’s Bassin des Chalutiers was today’s destination.

Leaving Les Sables d’Olonne

Play d’eau was moored port side to. Having singled out the warps, Lin took the helm. Using a forward spring and a touch of starboard throttle, Lin gently eased the stern off the pontoon before engaging reverse power to take us off the berth at our planned departure time of 0730.

Neat, so neat.

The Journey

Flat calm and hot as we headed towards La Rochelle. On days like this it can be difficult to distinguish between sea and sky
click to enlarge
Flat, calm seas, under a hot sun. We almost succumbed to having the air conditioning on in the Pilot House, but noblesse oblige came to the fore. Instead, we baked (and regretted our decision).

Arriving

Access to the Bassin des Chalutiers is through a lifting bridge and lock gate, which is only opened for around two hours at top of tide. Hence, our early departure from Les Sables d’Olonne.

As we travelled under the huge bridge that links the beautiful Île de Ré with La Rochelle, we passed the deep water port before turning into the approaches to La Rochelle.

Giving the Capitainerie 30 minutes notice of our pending arrival on channel 9, we were met by M. Christian, Harbour Master, in his dory. Within moments the bridge lifted and M. Christian led us though the lock gate into the basin and to our berth.

We have electricity, water and Wi-Fi.

The tecky details

M. Christian, Harbour Master, guided us through the lock gate and to our berth
click to enlarge
0730 FST – Departed Quai Garnier, Les Sables d’Olonne
1245 FST – Arrived Bassin des Chalutiers, La Rochelle
Planned distance – 36.3nm
Longest leg – 13.7nm – Bourgenay SWM to NNW of Pt Grouin
Waypoints – 13
Tech issues – None.

Note: The oil leak reported on Leg 9 is under watch and will be repaired when back in Beaucette. The stabiliser pump and gearbox will have to be removed before the flywheel housing is exposed, after which the offending seal can be replaced.

Piers and Lin
from the Engine Room of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.

Cruising

Memories of Les Sables d’Olonne

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Le Clipper, restaurant gastronomique, where we celebrated our 41st wedding anniversary
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We’ve had a great time at Les Sables d’Olonne celebrating our 41st wedding anniversary, cleaning Play d’eau, exploring the town and enjoying the constant movement of trawlers.

Wedding Anniversary

We ate at Le Clipper, one of many restaurants along the Quai Garnier where Play d’eau is moored. Why Le Clipper? It’s mentioned in the Michelin Guide, it looked different, and Madame was so welcoming when I enquired about booking.

We arrived at 7pm to be met by Chef (who looked like Alastair Simm), Madame and their daughter. Lots of hand shakings and welcomes, especially when we told them it was our wedding anniversary.

Over a Kir Royale (fraise for Lin, mûre (mulberry) for me) we chose from the 37 euro menu.

After the gazpacho amuse bouche, we both had ‘Foie Gras de canard mi-cuit, chutney de poires aux épices doux’ with a large glass of Coteaux du Layon, an Appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC) for sweet white wine in the Loire Valley wine region of France, made from the Chenin Blanc grape, locally often called Pineau de la Loires. Luscious.

The Black Pearl, one of the larger trawlers
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The main course was ‘Filet de boeuf du Limousin cuit au sautoir purée de pommes de terre aux truffles blanche d’Italie’ washed down with a bottle of Chateau Grand Barrail from Lamarzelle, Figeac, St. Emilion.

After cheese and a small green salad, Lin chose the Croustillant d’ananas de Côte d’Ivoire rôti au cinq épices, crème aux saveurs des îles et glace coco’. ‘Just like the Caribbean on a plate,’ said Lin. I had ‘Crémeux de chocolat blanc et opaline de sucre à la vanille’. No wine with this course – we were full up!

Coffee, tea and a glass of Armagnac ended a great evening. Très gentil.

Trawlers and the fishing port

Quai Garnier shares port with the trawlers and fishing community. Large and small trawlers work non-stop, at all hours of the day and night. After off-loading their catches, they refill with ice and diesel from the maritime co-operative.

What a beach

One of the smallest trawlers and lobster boats, working from Les Sables d’Olonne
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Now we know why the town has the name ‘Les Sables’. Its sandy beach is simply stunning, and in the current hot weather, people made a bee-line for it.

Le sable of Les Sables.

Well, we’re off to La Rochelle early tomorrow, so until we write again, bon soir.

Piers and Lin
from the saloon of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.

The beautiful sand of the huge beach at Les Sables d’Olonne
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