Play d’eau sets out for another lovely day of cruising click to enlargeIt was the Festival of Music, ‘a speciality’ we were told. What we didn’t know was that it started late evening and ended early morning.
It’s official
We’re well and truly addicted. Yet another day of flat calm seas, blue skies and calm winds. Even dodging lobster pots is becoming fun – who can see the next one, first?
Pornichet
Two days ago, the question was whether our destination was to be Pornic or Pornichet. Two years ago it was Pornic and it has to be said that although the village was lovely we found the marina oppressive. Having never visited Pornichet before, Pornichet it was.
Approaching along the 2nm channel, Pornichet’s lovely, long and golden beach was to the north of us, equally as long as the channel. But sadly, immediately behind the beach is an equally long line of multi-floored high rise ‘modern’ apartments.Dawn lights up the high rise apartments on Pornichet’s lovely beach click to enlargeWhat a marina! Coping with large boats, pontoons are large and the fingers are super long. Long enough for Play d’eau to have almost no overhang. Never known that before. We moored in ‘Oscar 13’, stern too, amongst other large and larger (but not quite as shiny) boats.
Walking to the Capitainerie, cars were parked everywhere. Range Rover after Range Rover, Porsche Cayenne after Porsche Cayenne, BMWs with no model numbers, their tyres seemingly wider than the cars themselves. Definitely no Sparkys.
Cafés line the long marina front rubbing shoulders with chandlers, marine engineering and bodywork specialists. Pornichet’s more a marina town than a marina.
‘But you have come at the right time,’ we were told. ‘It’s Music Festival week.’ I have to say we found it hard to exhibit as much excitement as the bearer of these tidings.
En route
After two bad nights, we woke early and cast off at 7am. Bad nights? The Music Festival started at 10pm in the marina cafés and ended around 2am. Thud, thud, thud from the over-amplified bass. Oh joy!Looking behind us, we saw a huge moustache heading for us… click to enlargeBut the passage was brilliant. Smooth as ever. So much so that Piers set to with continuing Play d’eau’s polishing regime.
(Message for Jason – since we left, Play d’eau’s had two full snow-foam washes, and we’ve almost finished a total polishing.)
Arrival
‘Quai Garnier. Ici Play d’eau,’ I said in my best French accent on channel 09. ‘Play d’eau, this is Quai Garnier,’ said the Capitaine in perfect English. ‘We have a place for you on pontoon A. I am here with your two friends from Yacht Harvester to greet you.’
It can’t get much better than this, can it?
Met data
Pornichet: NE1/2, clear skies, good visibility
En route: Wind backed to NW3
Sea state: Calm, glassy flat to ruffled
Les Sables d’Olonne: W3/4, mainly due to local sea breeze. Clear skies, good vis.
Nav data
…the boat jumped our wake, and the skipper waved click to enlargeTimes are FST.
Departed Pornichet: 0700, 22 June 2015
Arrived Les Sables d’Olonne (Quay Garnier): 1451 (16 mins ahead of schedule – must plan better!)
Pinchpoints: None
Longest individual leg: 21.7nm
Time en route: 7hr 51min
Planned distance: 61.2nm
Tech issues: None
Piers and Lin
from the Chart Table of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
(click on the photos below to enlarge, and use the left/right arrows)
As we left port, we fell into another yacht race click to enlargeNow we have to give fair warning. We could easily become addicted to this. We’ve had yet another gorgeous day of cruising on glassy flat seas, calm wind and dark blue skies.
Port Haliguen
I have to say that Port Haliguen is more a convenient stop-off point rather than somewhere exciting to stay and explore. Why? Catering for visitors is not its strength. Yes, the port is well equipped to help with anything your boat might need and the Capitainerie staff is really helpful but there are two major impediments.
First, Port Haliguen is a good 1½ miles from the nearest village. Second, finding a boulangerie for your mandatory breakfast croissants and baguette for lunch, let alone a local supermarket, requires a degree in geography and specialisms in map reading and GPS.
But as a one night stop-off for planning your entry to the Morbihan or for further cruising along the coast, it’s perfect since it has an H24 access.
Destination Pornichet and…?
A lone yacht going nowhere in no wind and beautifully flat seas click to enlargeSo we’d planned for one night only before setting course for a new destination, Pornichet, on the north coast of the mouth of the Loire by St Nazaire.
Thereafter, the (current) plan is to visit Sables d’Olonne and La Rochelle (the locked Les Chalutiers marina – vieux port) where we’ll have our stabilisers fixed and meet John and Beryl who are flying out to spend a fortnight with us as we further explore the coast together.
The WW2 raid on St Nazaire
Lin’s Dad was in the Royal Navy during the last war on the Hunt-class destroyer, HMS Atherstone. Operation Chariot was the raid on St Nazaire with the objective of destroying the gates of the Normandie dock by ramming them with an explosive-packed destroyer, the obsolete HMS Campbeltown, to prevent the dock’s use by the German battleship Tirpitz.
The memory of his account of what happened with HMS Atherstone differs significantly from the history books….
En route
Morning trawling leave a long line of hungry seagulls click to enlargeWith no serenade from Alain as we left port, Piers let rip on the Kahlenbergs only to find a yacht race in full flight in front of us complete with support vessels buzzing about!
Piloting Play d’eau around the back of the fleet before paralleling and overtaking them, we were astonished to see the yachts were making some 5 knots in just a 2 knot wind. Then we realised they had their engines on so were actually motorboats in disguise.
The whole trip was in flat calm water and uneventful. Addictive.
We have a day off tomorrow (Sunday) and plan to move on to Sables d’Olonne on Monday.
Nav data
Times are FST.
Departed Port la Fôret: 0900, 19 June 2015At low tide, a small island appears on the Plateau du Four click to enlargePinchpoints: None
Departed Port Haliguen: 1030
Longest individual leg: 19.9nm
Arrived Pornichet: 1458
Time en route: 4hr 28min
Planned distance: 34.85nm
Tech issues: None
Piers and Lin
from the Chart Table of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
We ate at the wonderfully eccentric Créperie click to enlargeA serenade, flat seas, hot sun, dolphins, the ‘joy’ of falling into the middle of a yacht race in crowded waters, and just a touch of sunburn.
The last supper
To celebrate such a brilliant time in Port la Fôret of jazz, more jazz, meeting friends and being in such a beautiful area, we decided to eat out.
With cidre de maison on the table (2 bottles and pottery mugs) at the eccentric Crêperie Quartier d’été we ordered the day’s special: Crèpe Arlette, a gorgeous concoction with fromage de chèvre, confit de cidre, maison salade, et noise. Supremely delicious.
(Maison Salade – begs the question of when will the rest of the world learn how to serve and dress salad rather than just depositing two bits of tomato, a limp lettuce leaf and a sad slice of cucumber on a plate, undressed, with the temerity to call it a garnish?)
To follow we indulged in Crèpe d’Happy, a crèpe froment with green apple sorbet and manzana (wild apple) liqueur. Although we felt full we just had to have another but this time we chose crèpes froment with just sugar and lemon.
Is your mouth watering yet?
Au revoir Port la Fôret
The seas were glassy flat click to enlargeA fine, clear, calm day greeted us. Over a coffee (tea for Lin) we checked the weather and prepared for a 9am departure. Slipping the lines we gentled our way to a glassy flat sea which at times sparkled in the sun.
Leaving the pierhead we became aware of – music. Looking back, we saw Alain, the jazz band’s trumpeter, serenading us! We waved, he waved (as much as anyone can with a trumpet to their mouth) and when he stopped I replied with my trumpets, the Kahlenbergs.
What a great send off.
En route
We hadn’t been travelling long before Lin shouted, ‘Dolphins!’ Out came the cameras as they played about a hundred metres away from us.
12 miles from Lorient we spotted an AIS target on our track. It was a Yacht race buoy. Soon, we’d counted 56 yachts racing out of Lorient to a distant buoy way out to our starboard.
Looking at Lin, I said, ‘When they reach that buoy they’ll turn and come for the buoy on our track. We’ll be there just when they arrive. Oh, Joy.’
There’s only on thing to do in these circumstances. Close your eyes and go into denial. Well, not quite, but it’s the thought that counts isn’t it? It must have been because rather than turn and head for us they turned the other way and headed away. Denial works – result!
Quiberon Peninsula
Dolphins, so many of them, came out to perform just for us click to enlargeWe either took the long way around the rocky outcrops, or we cut the corner and threaded our way through the shallows between the rocks in the En Toull Bras channel. It was only one hour after low tide and at its shallowest point which was also its narrowest point, we’d only have 1m below our keel.
Play d’eau aced it.
Nav data
Times are FST.
Departed Port la Fôret: 0900, 19 June 2015
Pinchpoints: None
Arrived Port Haliguen: 1535
Time en route: 6hr 35min
Planned distance: 52.9nm
Tech issues: None
Piers and Lin
from the Chart Table of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
(click on the photos below to enlarge, and use the left/right arrows)
The Cornouaille Jazz Band with Piers click to enlarge‘Would you like the jazz band to play on Play d’eau?’ asked Alain. Without even a micro-second hesitation we replied, excitedly, ‘Brilliant!’
Two years ago
It was two years ago that we’d tried to set this up but it hadn’t been possible. The marina was too full take us for the planned date.
Tonight’s the night
But now it would happen. 5 musicians would take up residence on the aft cockpit.
Jean-Aubert on banjo and guitar
Jean-Francois on tenor saxophone and clarinet
Alain on trumpet
Georges on drums
Michel on bass guitar
and last but not least, Jean-Michel (who sports the most magnificent bushy beard) – the band’s resident vidoegrapher.
The only player who couldn’t make it was Marc who played contrabass, alto and soprano saxophone last Sunday.
We need to prepare
The band warms up on the aft cockpit click to enlargeNotes to self: Check ship’s stores and wine cellar.
Peroni lager and white wine into the fridge. Red wine out of the bilge where it’s kept cool. London Pride (real ale) at the ready. Pastis in store, but out of whiskey. Must buy some.
For refreshments, we agree a version of stuffed eggs and plenty of nibbles. No time for anything else.
A walk to the small Carrefort in La Fôret Fouesnant secures said stores. Now to cooking.
The evening
At 7pm, the band begin arriving. All squeeze onto the aft cockpit. First problem – Play d’eau mains supply is through UK sockets. Not French. Alain runs back to his yacht to secure the extension leads and adaptors.
With everyone plugged in the warm up starts. Banjo and tenor sax tune to an A and the others follow. All set?
And off they go. Play d’eau rocks, not so much to the music but to the wakes other boats make as they pass. I announce sick bags are available.
Complete success
Jean-Aubert, band leader and retired heart surgeon, played guitar and banjo click to enlargeAfter some 10 pieces, it’s time to relax and for the band to sample British real ale, Italian lager, Scotch whiskey, Gordon’s Gin, Waitrose orange squash, and Play d’eau ice from Guernsey water.
Lin brings out the stuffed eggs on melba toast which disappear as fast as she can refill the tray. We’d used 14 eggs….
As the band departs amongst fond farewells and threats of making Piers play clarinet next year, we are left with the most magnificent memories possible.
We wonder if a jazz band has ever played on a Fleming before?
Piers and Lin
from the Green Room of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
(click on the photos below to enlarge, and use the left/right arrows)
The beautiful snow white Little Egret click to enlargeA small sound made me look up. An Egret was stalking its dinner in the shallows on the other side of the pontoon. Only a few metres away from me.
What’s for supper?
Slowly and stealthily feeling its way in the shallow of the water’s edge, it would waggle its feet in the sand to stir up anything that might be hiding.
And then it would strike. So fast.
Why here?
Behind Port la Fôret marina is a large brackish lake, home to many migrating sea birds. As the tide ebbs a muddy, sandy expanse is exposed attracting many Heron, Egrets and Terns, all stalking their supper.
The Herons wait, immobile, striking with precision whilst the Terns circle overhead, their short squeaks announcing they’re hunting. In an instant they’ll make a steep turn, fold their wings, dive and plunge with a soft ‘splosh’ into the shallow water, only to fly away a second or so later having gulped their supper. It’s all over in a flash of time.
Little Egret
The Little Egret’s outstandingly beautiful snowy white plumage contrasts with its slim black beak, black legs and yellow feet. Although a member of the heron family, the Little Egret is literally little, growing to only 26″ tall when fully adult.
And yes, he found three fish before flying off.
Piers and Lin
from the Hide of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
(click on the photos below to enlarge, and use the left/right arrows)
Alain Duhaut, trumpeter of the Cornouaille Jazz Band click to enlarge‘Concert at Port La Fôret, Sunday at 16 hours in the same place of there 2 years.’
Alain Duhaut sent me this email just as we leaving Audierne. Alain’s the trumpeter of the Cornouaille Jazz Band which we had the great pleasure of hearing two years ago.
So how exciting is that? His band was going to play again at Port la Fôret – and we’d be there. Quelle coïncidence.
Coast Guard
‘Play d’eau, Play d’eau, Play d’eau, this is Cross Étel. Over.’
We were on passage from Audierne and an hour from Port la Fôret. Why would the Coast Guard be calling me? Cautiously, I responded.
‘What is your destination?’ I was asked. ‘Port la Fôret, over.’ ‘Play d’eau, do you know a M. Alain Duhaut?’ ‘Oui,’ I said, even more cautiously this time. ‘M. Duhaut wants you to know he is monitoring your progress on AIS and will greet you when you arrive.’
The Coastguard relaying personal messages? Wow. But how totally brilliant of Alain.
Arrival
Play d’eau was berthed alongside the bandstand. Perfect. click to enlargeOn arrival, we were allocated pontoon R just outside the marina. I was about to question this decision when I realised Pontoon R would place us directly opposite the band stand and only 20m away. Did I sense Alan’s hand in this?
We were just finishing putting Play d’eau to bed after the passage when a trumpet played God Save the Queen, followed by the Marseillaise.
‘Alain!’ both Lin and I shouted as we jumped off the boat to very warm greetings.
The day arrived
With my camera rolling, the Cornouaille Jazz Band began. For two hours, the audience was rapt and children danced. We were gloriously entertained by the six enthusiastic players.
I’ll let the photos tell all.
Piers and Lin
from the recording studio of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
(click on the photos below to enlarge, and use the left/right arrows)
The final act of defiance – a dramatic downpour click to enlargeWe knew we were in for a week of strong winds. That’s why we’d kept moving.
The NE F6/7 had been relentless, howling across Audierne ever since we arrived accompanied mostly by strong sunshine with the occasional spot of rain.
But the weather was no match for Play d’eau. She was becoming uneasy and wanting to move on with her holiday. Play d’eau won, of course.
The weather suddenly gave in and the wind dropped, yet in the same way as a teenager mumbles after being told off, the blue skies were replaced by grey cloud as a warm front moved overhead and a gentle rainfall began.
As the door slammed in the final show of defiance, a sudden heavy downpour was the final flourish of ‘I don’t care’ before leaving the stage to a grey sky and no wind as evening fell to night.
We’d leave tomorrow, mid-morning.
Hydraulic leaks
The blue oil spill from the port stabiliser ram click to enlargeAnnoyingly, we’d found two hydraulic leaks associated with the port stabilser. The first was from a seal on the ram and the second was a weep on a gear oil feed pipe connection. Contacting Golden Arrow, the European distributor, we began discussing options with their stabiliser guru, Brian George. As far as continuing the cruise we could simply immobilise the port fin but continue using the starboard fin.
That would be fine provided there wasn’t a sudden increase in leakage so we needed to plan for Brian to attend Play d’eau in La Rochelle or sooner. It would be a day’s work.
Au revoir, Audierne
We awoke early. Although it was misty it was ‘good to go’. The wind was calm.
Piers bought the croissants, took some final photos, visited le propriétaire de la cave d’Audierne (from whom we’d bought an outstanding Armagnac and Alsace dessert wine), and the Harbour Monster to say, ‘Au Revoir’, and we cast off at 1115 just as the sun appeared.
En route
An unhappy house near the entrance to Port la Forét click to enlargeCompletely uneventful. Calm seas, a warm sun and a gentle breeze from the SW helping us along.
Working with a single stabiliser fin was fine. Not as precise, but perfectly acceptable. Mind you, the sea was kind today.
Nav data
Times are FST.
Departed Audierne: 1115, 12 June 2015
Pinchpoints: Access over the sand bars at the entrances to Audierne and Port la Fôret
Arrived Port la Fôret: 1620
Time en route: 5hr 5min
Planned distance: 39nm
Tech issues:
With no return of the previously reported vibration, the Tech Log entry was altered to ‘resolved’
The oil leak from the port Trac stabiliser ram is concerning. Discussions are ongoing with the European agents, Golden Arrow
Piers and Lin
from the navigation table of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
Dawn breaks over Audierne click to enlargeOh how we love this small, unspoiled, market fishing town which has no pretensions or modern glamour to smother its original reality. Thankfully, the long arm of ‘Progress’ has kept its destructive hands away from Audierne.
Meanwhile, the town’s extensive shell fish industry has kept it firmly on the haute cuisine map by serving much of France with fresh crab, lobster, langoustine, sardines and line-caught fish.
You can imagine the excitement when notices outside Audierne wet fish shops declare ‘Langoustines Vivante – arrive à 19 heures ce soir’. Queues grow long.
Similar to St Peter Port
In a way, the town looks similar to St Peter Port before its marinas were created. The fishing fleet moors against the long sea wall which fronts the town’s road with its shops, houses and the Le Goyen 3 star Hotel. More houses line the small hill behind, all with slate roofs. The marina has been added at the end.
She needed a bath
After six hours, we finished cleaning and had a drink click to enlargeHaving travelled from Beaucette in not the best of seas, Play d’eau was covered in salt and needed a good bath.
Jason, who cleans and polishes Play d’eau regularly, had been a good tutor. ‘A good soapy bath at least once a week and a good coat of carnuba wax polish every two months. Do the upper deck one month, and the lower deck the next.’ Yes, Jason.
Having arrived in the early morning from Camaret, we started just after lunch. Six hours later, she’d had her (very) soapy bath, all over, been rinsed down and chamois leather dried. She looked good, really good. We broke out the Peroni and quaffed on the aft deck in hot sunshine.
Bas Armagnac and…
The sign read ‘De Vigne en Vin’ and pointed to a side road. Once inside the Cave, fine wines were beautifully laid out in three cool cellars. The last had an array of Armagnac.
After many tastings, resistance was low and we just had to buy a very fine Armagnac, didn’t we?The cellars of De Vigne en Vin d’Audierne click to enlargeBeing fully in the spirit of the event we began tasting dessert wines. An Alsace from the Gewurztraminer grape stood out. It would have been ungracious of us not to buy it and find an excuse to drink it.
A treat
Having had an unexpectedly good dinner served with beautiful French elegance in the 3 star Hotel Goyen two years ago, we booked a return treat.
The surroundings hadn’t changed. A light grey décor, wallpaper on the doors, white starched table cloths and waitresses who seemed to flow and glide rather than walk.
Whilst consuming glasses (note the plural) of champagne, we studied the menu. With Lin choosing lobster for a main course the Maître d’hôtel returned with three live local specimens displayed on a silver salver. Pointing to one of them, Lin said, ‘Emile, please.’
An excellent bottle of Sancerre accompanied six local No 3 oysters, crab meat rolled in thin slices of raw white fish, and langoustine tails (raw) in a delightful soya and lentil broth. Emile, gently roasted, and a sea bass poached in a fennel vegetable stock, followed. With no room for anything else, Piers paid the bill and knocked his expresso all over the table cloth.Le Goyen 3 star Hotel click to enlargeWithout doubt, the stars were the lobster and sea bass. It’s rare to find fish so beautifully prepared and both were simply magnificent. And now for the ‘but’: if there was any criticism, it was that the accompaniments on the dishes were dark brown or grey and somewhat dull. They needed the next level of brightening with colour and burst of flavour.
A day trip to Quimper
Being such a small marina, mainly for privately owned fishing and sailing boats, there’s only room for a handful of visitors on the hammerheads. Given its size there’s no marina wi-fi (wee-fee) so visits to the local bars and cafés for Chocolat Chaud or Cidre Pression were necessary. Quelle domage.
On the other hand, if we had a mobile wi-fi extender as we did in South Africa, we might be able to save the not inconsiderable amount we were spending on cidre.
On a dull and chilly day, we took the hour long bus journey to Quimper (yes, Piers went on a bus…). We found the Orange emporium next to the Cathédrale Saint-Corentin de Quimper. €85 later, we had a 4G Orange Let’s Go (pay as you go) Airbox and credit valid for six months. Will it work?
Time to depart
And now we must make ready to depart for Port la Fôret tomorrow, 12 June 2015.
Piers and Lin
from the saloon of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
A Bas Armagnac magnifique click to enlarge
An equally magnifique Alsace dessert wine click to enlarge
Cathédrale Saint-Corentin de Quimper began construction in the 1200s click to enlarge
An interesting roof line click to enlarge
The Catherdral’s Last Supper window click to enlarge
Glorious back streets of ages untold click to enlarge
Ocean Pearl squeezes through the narrow entrance of Camaret marina click to enlargeAfter our horrid yet triumphant marathon passage making yesterday, we had a day off to recuperate before tomorrow’s short weather window would allow us to transit the Raz de Sein on 6 June.
If we missed this window, we’d be stuck for at least a week whilst the forecast NE gales played endless and annoying percussion by slapping rigging against masts of neighbouring yachts.
We’d be pushing ourselves but it would be worth it to be south of the Finistère Peninsula before the strong winds came. The plan was coming together.
Audierne, here we come.
Throughout the day, the skies remained heavily overcast with a strong, cold wind but no rain.
Croissant and hot chocolate
Although both Lin and I had sore tummies and my head still hurt, we retraced our steps into the village to have croissants and hot chocolate. A delectable feast.Ocean Pearl looks the business as she moors click to enlargeHow come only the French can make such delicious croissants?
Yesterday’s vibration
Being moored on the outside wasn’t ideal, so as soon as there was space in the marina we took it.
With nothing obvious being found with the drive shafts in the engine room, we needed to check if anything had been snagged on a prop. Piers would either don the dive kit or try our underwater video camera bought especially for the purpose.
Cable tied to the boat hook, the small camera worked brilliantly. The props could clearly be seen and thankfully nothing untoward was seen. We concluded we must have been snagged something during yesterday’s passage which had come free as we manoeuvred in Camaret.
We wait to see if the vibration returns on the next sector.
A phone call
Ocean Pearl moored opposite Play d’eau click to enlargeMy phone rang. ‘Piers, it’s Braun, Ocean Pearl. We are thinking of coming into Camaret. Are you there? We’re in the Chenal du Four right now.’
By mid-afternoon, the enormous Ocean Pearl held her breath and squeezed through the narrow marina entrance to moor in the only space available. Neighbouring yachts also held their breath whilst their skippers were heard to mutter, ‘Alors’, ‘Sacr%eacute; bleu’, and ‘C’est enorme!’
‘Come along for drinks, tonight,’ invited Tina. We need no encouragement.
A tour of Ocean Pearl
Lin’s first words were, ‘Wow, this is huge,’ as we stepped into the saloon.
We cannot begin to describe how large and beautifully crafted the vessel is. What a pilot house! To learn Braun and Tina had crossed the major oceans of the Pacific and Atlantic and have just been cruising extensively in the Baltic, was breathtaking.
There’s no doubt the Nordhavn 64 is built for serious ocean cruising in wonderful luxury.In pre-dawn twilight, cliffs and rocks look daunting as we left Camaret click to enlargeAs I write, I can hear Lin saying, ‘No, it’s not happening…’
The second fragile weather window
Given access to Audierne is limited by tide, the latest time to leave Camaret would be 0445 even though it placed us in the pinchpoint of the Raz de Sein an hour before slack water. The current spring tides wouldn’t help either and hopefully the forecast NW3 wind would be realised.
En route
As quietly as possible, we cast off and let the wind drift us away from the pontoon. Using engines only we manoeuvred out of the marina.
The FLIR thermal imaging camera came into its own. Presenting a daylight picture we were able to see pot markers, take avoiding action, and not be ‘hooked’.
Meeting a NW4/5 wind along the headland, the first hour was into the swell (again) and slop (again), but it smoothed out as we turned south for the Raz leaving us riding a 2m Atlantic swell only, broadside-on. The bonus was that the wind began to abate.
A yacht race
Early dawn after leaving Camaret click to enlargeHaving had the radar on short range for pot spotting, I increased it to 4 miles just before turning S towards the Raz. To my surprise dozens of targets covered the screen like angry acne, each with an AIS.
It was a yacht race. Some fifty or so 6m and 7m yachts were following a clockwise course from Morgat, through the Raz, along the S coast of the Ile de Sein to its western tip before heading NE to the Basse du Lis SCM and finally striking for Morgat.
The yachts had interesting names, such as ‘Follow me solo sailor’ and ‘Dinky toy solo sailor’.
Hey, if 6m yachts can handle the Raz, how on earth can we make a fuss?
The Raz
As hoped, the Ile de Sein protected us from the wind which by now had more W in it that N, making the transit almost smooth. Another non-event.At the end of the Raz, numerous Gannets signify a good feeding ground click to enlargeOnce through, the wind petered out as if by a switch. With only a following 2kt gentle breeze we cruised the next 7nm to Audierne in complete flat sea comfort. A call to the Harbour Master confirmed a hammerhead was ready for us as we entered the estuary and followed the narrow, winding dredged channel to the marina.
Audierne
The Harbour Master recognised and welcomed us, giving us a great welcome. He reminded us he was known by his friends as the Harbour Monster!
We love this small, unspoiled, market fishing town which has no pretentions and no modern glamour to smother its reality.
The sun was hot, the wind calm, and to our delight, we saw the farmers’ market was in full flow.
It’s so good to be back.
Nav data
La Vielle signifies the end of the Raz de Sein. Can you see the small fishing boat? click to enlargeTimes are FST.
Pinchpoints: Raz de Sein and tidal access to Audierne
Departed Camaret: 0445, 6 June 2015
Arrived Audierne: 0942
Time en route: 4hr 57min
Planned distance: 30.2nm
Sunrise: 0603
Tech issues: With no return of the previously reported vibration, we ticked it off as ‘resolved but watch’ in the Tech Log.
Piers and Lin
from the navigation table of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
The graveyard for old wooden fishing boats is next to the marina click to enlarge
Audierne. Hot sun and calm winds. Destination achieved click to enlarge
Looking aft as we descend into the trough of the 3m swell click to enlargeDate of departure: 4 June 2015
We couldn’t sleep.
By 1am we were up and dressed. The light of the full moon was reflecting off the glassy flat harbour sea untouched by any hint of a wind. Perfect.
Fragile weather window
Yet we also knew from the forecast that as soon as we rounded St Martin’s Point on the SE of Guernsey and started heading WSW, we’d meet a 3m Atlantic swell topped with 1m waves stirred up by a NE4 wind.
These conditions would stay with us until abeam L’Aber Wrac’h for some 15 hours before turning south for the Chenal du Four and Camaret.
We knew it would be uncomfy. But we also knew that if we didn’t take this fragile weather window and make Camaret we would lose at least a week whilst the fronts in the North Atlantic and their associated pressure gradients played havoc with the winds and seas.
The old saying that the boat could cope but the crew couldn’t, would soon ring in our ears.
The longest day
Having cast off at 0230 and transited the east coast of Guernsey, we turned WSW and came head to head with the 3m swell. But it was just a roller coaster; gently up to its peak and gently down into its trough. In a way, quite soothing, soporific, quite enjoyable.
Were there the forecast 1m waves? Yes, but annoyingly they created a nasty steep slop causing Play d’eau to wallow. It was that movement, hour after hour, which made us both feel unwell. Lin was. I just felt ill but wasn’t. I also began to develop a fierce headache.
The Mary Celeste?
After 14 hours we turned SSW for Camaret where the seas became glassy flat click to enlargeSome 20 miles past Guernsey a target appeared on the radar, fine on the starboard bow. AIS gave her details as the 14m long Mardrea, at anchor, yet making 6.7kts.
At 0401 she passed 1.4nm to the north of us. No navigation lights to be seen and even in the pre-dawn light she was invisible.
Un petit mystère, je pense.
Planned diversions
In case we didn’t want to continue, we’d planned our options to return to Guernsey or divert to Roscoff or l’Aber Wrac’h depending upon where we were along the route. At each point we made the decision to keep going.
Chenal du Four
By mid-afternoon, clear skies were replaced by a grey, overcast dullness.
After 14 hours of this endurance run, we turned SSW for the Chenal du Four. Thankfully, the wind soon abated to a gentle F2 and the wind whipped waves and swell subsided.
By the time we approached the Chenal du Four the sea had become glassy flat. The wind was a mere 2kts, and what could have been a difficult encounter was nothing of the sort. A complete non-event.
Camaret
Pointe de Sainte Mathieu – the end of the Chenal du Four click to enlargeCamaret was full, albeit because boats had moored inconsiderately by occupying far more room than necessary. With a flat sea and no wind, we were content to moor on the outside of the outer pontoon.
Wanting to set foot on terra firma, we took the short walk into the village and had the mandatory first pression of the trip.
Post-mortem
Was the trip dangerous? No. Was it unpleasant? Yes. Was it worth it? Without question. Why? We were now well positioned to round the peninsula and start enjoying the holiday before the pressure gradients whipped themselves up to unsociably strong winds.
Nav data
Times are BST.
Pinchpoint: Chenal du Four
Departed St Peter Port: 0230
Arrived Camaret: 1952
Time en route: 17hr 22min
Planned distance: 139nm
Sunrise: 0506
Tech issues: Vibration when synchronising the engines. Having 100rpm difference stopped the vibration. Must check in Camaret.
Piers and Lin
from the navigation table of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
These were the voyages of Piers and Lin du Pré aboard their Fleming 55
