Tag Archives: Brittany

Leg 20 (2015) – Roscoff to Beaucette

Captain Lin drove Play d’eau out of the marina and onto Beaucette
click to enlarge
Drat!

Given a recurring gearbox problem and deteriorating weather forecasts, we made the decision to forgo our two week ‘jolly’ along the north Brittany coast and return straight to Beaucette.

After a bright, sunny day-off with a lovely walk into Roscoff to the supermarché for essentials of cider and local onions, we made ready to leave.

Clear skies with a light W’ly zephyr and little forecast swell encouraged us to set sail (set motors?) on the last leg of our holiday.

The planning

It was a neap tide and given the time of high water at Beaucette, our planning showed we should leave at 0730.

The route would take us across the bay to squeeze between the mainland and Les Sept Îles before the 47nm leg direct to St Martin’s Point on the SE of Guernsey before heading north to Beaucette.

En route

A Mach 2 fly-past
click to enlarge
The passage was really lovely; enjoyable, peaceful and uneventful. A joy.

Mind you, the first two hours were spent dodging concentrations of lobster pots and their trailing markers seemingly laid out specifically to trap Play d’eau.

These traps were augmented by clutches of keen fishermen bobbing around in their small Merry Fisher boats, appearing to block our homeward path.

Highlight

Suddenly, Lin shouted, ‘Look, quick, dolphins, port side.’

For ten minutes, a large pod of dolphin played and competed like Russian dancers in Play d’eau’s wakes as if they were performing a last farewell spectacular especially for us. We could almost hear them saying, ‘Look what we can do!’ before rushing off to jump and splosh on another wave.

It was a heart stopping, captivating moment of wonderment. We’ve tried but can’t find words sufficient to describe ‘rapturous’ so we’ll let the photos paint the story instead.

Arriving back in Beaucette was lovely. With greetings and hugs, we were made to feel so welcome again.

Au revoir, la belle France. À la prochaine.
click to enlarge
A perfect way to end a great holiday.

Met data

Roscoff: W1, clear, good.
Forecast sea state: Swell insignificant.
Beaucette: W2, clear, good.

Nav data

Times are FST.

Date: 9 August 2015
Departed Roscoff: 0731
Arrived Beaucette: 1645
Pinchpoint: Entry over the sill into Beaucette
Longest leg: 47.3nm
Time en route: 9hr 44min
Planned distance: 78nm

Tech issues: None.

Piers and Lin
from the Pilot House of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

(click on the photos below to enlarge, and use the left/right arrows)

Leg 19 (2015) – Camaret to l’Aber Wrac’h to Roscoff

Another spectacular sunrise light show
click to enlarge
Even though we’d had a somewhat tiresome passage yesterday, it had been unexpectedly rewarded by the second best dinner we’ve had whilst on holiday this year.

If ever there’s a reason to visit Camaret, it’s the Restaurant of the small Hotel Vauban.

Although tired, we felt back on form.

Go or no go?

With the morning’s forecast and actuals to hand, we plotted our next move over an early morning coffee (tea for Lin).

All looked good apart from a tight frontal system swirling around the peninsula, yet being so tight it was unlikely to present strong winds apart from isolated downdraughts and showers, maybe heavy, from any lurking cumulus cloud.

We made the decision to go.

Black skies

Against the black clouds, the sunlight was breathtaking
click to enlarge
As dawn approached, the sky to the east was clear apart from a narrow roll of cloud just above the distant horizon. In comparison, the fronts had covered the sky to the west with thick, black ominous cloud.

As the sun rose she found a small letterbox gap between the land and the cloud through which she beamed, creating rainbows and a glorious show of bright light.

With an ETD of 0900, we prepared for departure and cast off after a breakfast of French Bread (eggy bread fried in bacon fat – yummy) and coffee (tea for Lin).

Thankfully, yesterday’s swell had completely disappeared. Had it been scared off by Play d’eau’s wrath? The land protected us from an easterly force 3 wind and the transit through the Chenal du Four was yet again, placid.

L’Aber Wrac’h or…?

Nearing the turn towards l’Aber Wrac’h we wondered if we should continue straight to Roscoff. The seas were comfortable, the wind had dropped to a light southerly force 2 and the sun had chased the cloud away. What could be better?

We did.

Nearing Roscoff

Yacht Meander en route to Ushant as we passed l’Aber Wrac’h
click to enlarge
Nearing Roscoff, the narrow channel between the Île de Batz and the mainland can look narrow and daunting with short changes of heading to avoid the many rocky outcrops. But provided you have understood the transits it’s really straight forward and good fun.

The many ferries and trawlers which use this channel are helpful and help by making way.

Calling Bloscon marina on channel 09, we were met at the entrance and guided to the hammerhead of pontoon A.

Success!

Met data

Camaret: E3, thick cloudy, good.
Forecast sea state: Calm.
Roscoff: S1, clear, good

Nav data

Times are FST.

Date: 7 August 2015
Departed Camaret: 0903
Arrived Roscoff: 1725
Pinchpoint: Chenal du Four
Longest leg: 16.2nm
Time en route: 8hr 20min
Planned distance: 61.8nm

Tech issues: None.

Piers and Lin
from the Pilot House of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

(click on the photos below to enlarge, and use the left/right arrows)

Leg 18 (2015) – Sainte Marine to Camaret

The day we left, the dawn sun was glowing through the milky cloud
click to enlarge
Please excuse the lack of photos in this posting – read on and you’ll see why.

We’ve never, ever been in such threatening seas.

Leaving Sainte Marine under a grey and cloudy sky, we headed south with a calm wind onto a flat sea, amongst many yachts. Soon we were heading into a slow, smooth swell which I have to say was rather enjoyable, even soothing.

‘The remnant of yesterday’s swell,’ I said knowingly to Lin.

Before I continue with the story, please excuse the lack of photos. The seas made it almost impossible to take any.

Penmarc’h Peninsula

Turning west to start the long passage around the Penmarc’h Peninsula we were joined by two 14m Dutch yachts out of Port Loctudy, forming a 7½kts cruise in company.

As the swell slowly increased, Lin retired to the saloon to take a Kwell and lie down. Having been in worse conditions around Start Point and Le Cap de la Hague, I was happy to continue. The positive was that the wind remained calm.

At least we had two yachts keeping Play d’eau company for encouragement.

When to abort?

As we were leaving, Yacht Popoff came in. Great name…
click to enlarge
After an hour our companion yachts were half disappearing in the troughs and I was at the point of making the decision to abort and return to Sainte Marine. The swell was now a fairly steep 4 metres.

The issue, though, was how to turn around? Crest to crest was far less than my turning circle and I certainly didn’t want to present Play d’eau broadside to this swell during a turn.

I tussled in my mind. Can it really get much worse? The wind was still calm and the yachts were still with us.

Turning NW

Reaching the westerly point of the Peninsula, the swell was at its worst. By now the yachts and their masts were disappearing in the troughs leaving only their VHF antennas visible. Quite a sight to behold. But I’d be telling an untruth if I said I was enjoying it.

Heading north west for the Raz de Sein, the first encouraging sign was the cloud clearing and the sun coming out. The second encouraging sign was the wind staying calm. The third encouraging sign was that the swell slowly, very slowly, starting to subside.

It took two hours before the swell had settled back to its initial gentle, acceptable rhythm and with no wind, the sea was quite glassy yet at times it looked as though it would shiver and come out in goose bumps. A strange sight.

Play d’eau motored out of Sainte Marine amongst a procession of departing yachts
click to enlarge
Later, Lin told me that when she’d woken, she’d looked out of the saloon windows, seen the sea towering above her at which point she decided denial was the best reality, closed her eyes and went back to sleep.

We mused whether a Kwell thrown into the sea would help have settled it. Maybe not.

Raz de Sein

The plan had been to enter the Raz at slack. Annoyingly, the tide turned some 30 minutes before the Admiralty tide tables and pilot books stated. More lumpy seas? Pah! Used to them now.

Ten yachts and Play d’eau converged on the Raz, yet I have to say that the transit itself was a bit of a non-event.

(Note to self: Remember the 30 minute tidal error error for next time)

Last leg

It took two hours to cross the Baie de Morgat before we arrived in Camaret where we took the last parking slot. We were both somewhat weary.

Two trip highlights

During the last four hours, four separate pods of dolphins came to play with Play d’eau. A wonder to behold and a thankful distraction.

A sunfish with its fin flopping side to side in the air, passed just a few feet away from us. It rolled slightly on its side so we could see eye to eye almost as though it wanted to say something.

Dinner out

The final highlight was dinner. Being so tired, we walked to the nearby Restaurant of the small Hotel Vauban where we ordered large pressions whilst looking at the short menu. Piers chose Melon Soup followed by Mackerel whilst Lin chose baked camembert with honey followed by moules.

Every moment spent waiting to be served was worth it. Each of the dishes was inspired, unexpected and obviously cooked fresh. This chef loves cooking!

A great way to end an ‘interesting’ day’s cruising.

Met data

Sainte Marine: Calm, cloudy, good.
Forecast sea state: Calm, with a slight swell.
Reality: An horendous swell.
Camaret: Calm, clear, good

Nav data

Times are FST.

Date: 6 August 2015
Departed Sainte Marina: 1005
Arrived Camaret: 1720
Pinchpoint: Raz de Sein
Longest leg: 22.3nm
Time en route: 7hr 15min
Planned distance: 57.1nm

Tech issues: None.

Piers and Lin
from the Pilot House of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

Leg 17 (2015) – Lorient to Sainte Marine

An aerial pic showing the entrance to Lorient is guarded by the Citadel
click to enlarge
The forecast knew it, we knew it, and it was – lumpy.

But well worth it to reach Sainte Marine from which we can judge the attack on the Finistère Peninsula. Camaret, L’Aber Wrac’h and Roscoff, here we come.

Time off

We’ve always liked Port Louis. It’s a small, ancient town built to defend the entrance to Lorient’s inland sea. The marina is really well protected and has had a complete make-over during the last few years.

More of this when I publish a separate report on Port Louis marina.

Our neighbour was a lovely 1976 Nicolson 39 ketch, a twin masted, beautifully built yacht, called Galloper. We had a great evening with its owners, Dave and Lorna, before we each went our own way to eat out, only to find we were booked into the same Crèperie!

Au revoir Port Louis

The forecast was a SE4 with a southerly 1½m swell thrown up by a depression swirling around in the Atlantic. Well, the wind would be behind us and the swell shouldn’t be too much of a problem.

With Piers on warps, Lin took Play ‘deau off her berth soon after sunrise. Exiting the narrow entrance Play d’eau came face to face with two commercial ships, one large trawler, a high speed Pilot boat, a yacht and a tug. Pah! Nothing to Skipper Lin.

En route

We had a great evening with Dave and Lorna of yacht Galloper
click to enlarge
The forecast was spot on although the swell was more from the SW than the S, and at times was parallel to us, making the stabilisers work overtime although the ride wasn’t the comfiest we’d ever had.

The wind stayed pretty constant, hovering between a SE4 and SE5. The swell was as forecast with the added attraction (is that the right word?) of some wave slop on top.

Coast Guard

‘Play d’eau, Play d’eau, ici Cross Étel, à vous.’

Was that for us or was there another Play d’eau around? I waited, ready to growl if ‘another Play d’eau’ dared respond. None did. ‘Cross Étel,’ I answered trying to sound authoritative. ‘Ici Play d’eau.’

A stream of French followed. The only part I understood was, ‘…à vous.’ ‘Pardon,’ I said, ‘Je suis Anglais. Je ne comprend pas.’ ‘Play d’eau, this is Cross Étel. Mr Duhait wants you to know he will greet you in Sainte Marine this afternoon.’

That’s the second time Alain’s managed to persuade the Coast Guard to call me! How does he do it? Maybe it’s a member of his Jazz Band?

Sainte Marine

Casting off at 0700, we exited the marina and passed the Lorient waterbus as the sun was rising
click to enlarge
Entering the channel into the River Odet, Sainte Marine is on the east side with Benodet on the west.

The tide was in a full 4kt ebb creating significant standing waves in the narrow ½nm long channel. Dodging between tacking yachts, capsized windsurfers, small capsized catamarans, large catamarans seemingly taking up the rest of the channel, the lifeboat (no-one wearing lifejackets) that squeezed between us and small yacht, not to mention the exposed rocks in the middle of the channel, Play d’eau motored sedately, elegantly and gloriously between them all to be met by the Harbour Master and escorted to her berth.

When next?

When is the question, not where. We will either make for Camaret tomorrow (Thursday) or the next day, depending on how muich the swell dies down and the wind become favourable for the passage through the Ra de Sein.

Watch this space….

Met data

Trawlers take no prisoners – speed and wake come second to selling their catch
click to enlarge
Lorient: SE4, clear, good.
Sea state: 1½m south westerly swell, at times SE5
Sainte Marine: SE4, cloudy, good

Nav data

Times are FST.

Date: 5 August 2015
Departed Lorient: 0700
Arrived Sainte Marine: 1155
Pinchpoint: The tidal flow when entering Sainte Marine
Longest leg: 17nm
Time en route: 4hr 55min
Planned distance: 61.6nm

Tech issues: None.

Piers and Lin
from the Pilot House of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

(click on the photos below to enlarge, and use the left/right arrows)

Leg 7 (2015) – Pornichet to Les Sables d’Olonne

Play d’eau sets out for another lovely day of cruising
click to enlarge
It was the Festival of Music, ‘a speciality’ we were told. What we didn’t know was that it started late evening and ended early morning.

It’s official

We’re well and truly addicted. Yet another day of flat calm seas, blue skies and calm winds. Even dodging lobster pots is becoming fun – who can see the next one, first?

Pornichet

Two days ago, the question was whether our destination was to be Pornic or Pornichet. Two years ago it was Pornic and it has to be said that although the village was lovely we found the marina oppressive. Having never visited Pornichet before, Pornichet it was.

Approaching along the 2nm channel, Pornichet’s lovely, long and golden beach was to the north of us, equally as long as the channel. But sadly, immediately behind the beach is an equally long line of multi-floored high rise ‘modern’ apartments.

Dawn lights up the high rise apartments on Pornichet’s lovely beach
click to enlarge
What a marina! Coping with large boats, pontoons are large and the fingers are super long. Long enough for Play d’eau to have almost no overhang. Never known that before. We moored in ‘Oscar 13’, stern too, amongst other large and larger (but not quite as shiny) boats.

Walking to the Capitainerie, cars were parked everywhere. Range Rover after Range Rover, Porsche Cayenne after Porsche Cayenne, BMWs with no model numbers, their tyres seemingly wider than the cars themselves. Definitely no Sparkys.

Cafés line the long marina front rubbing shoulders with chandlers, marine engineering and bodywork specialists. Pornichet’s more a marina town than a marina.

‘But you have come at the right time,’ we were told. ‘It’s Music Festival week.’ I have to say we found it hard to exhibit as much excitement as the bearer of these tidings.

En route

After two bad nights, we woke early and cast off at 7am. Bad nights? The Music Festival started at 10pm in the marina cafés and ended around 2am. Thud, thud, thud from the over-amplified bass. Oh joy!

Looking behind us, we saw a huge moustache heading for us…
click to enlarge
But the passage was brilliant. Smooth as ever. So much so that Piers set to with continuing Play d’eau’s polishing regime.

(Message for Jason – since we left, Play d’eau’s had two full snow-foam washes, and we’ve almost finished a total polishing.)

Arrival

‘Quai Garnier. Ici Play d’eau,’ I said in my best French accent on channel 09. ‘Play d’eau, this is Quai Garnier,’ said the Capitaine in perfect English. ‘We have a place for you on pontoon A. I am here with your two friends from Yacht Harvester to greet you.’

It can’t get much better than this, can it?

Met data

Pornichet: NE1/2, clear skies, good visibility
En route: Wind backed to NW3
Sea state: Calm, glassy flat to ruffled
Les Sables d’Olonne: W3/4, mainly due to local sea breeze. Clear skies, good vis.

Nav data

...the boat jumped our wake, and the skipper waved
…the boat jumped our wake, and the skipper waved
click to enlarge
Times are FST.

Departed Pornichet: 0700, 22 June 2015
Arrived Les Sables d’Olonne (Quay Garnier): 1451 (16 mins ahead of schedule – must plan better!)
Pinchpoints: None
Longest individual leg: 21.7nm
Time en route: 7hr 51min
Planned distance: 61.2nm

Tech issues: None

Piers and Lin
from the Chart Table of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

(click on the photos below to enlarge, and use the left/right arrows)

Leg 6 (2015) – Port Haliguen to Pornichet

As we left port, we fell into another yacht race
click to enlarge
Now we have to give fair warning. We could easily become addicted to this. We’ve had yet another gorgeous day of cruising on glassy flat seas, calm wind and dark blue skies.

Port Haliguen

I have to say that Port Haliguen is more a convenient stop-off point rather than somewhere exciting to stay and explore. Why? Catering for visitors is not its strength. Yes, the port is well equipped to help with anything your boat might need and the Capitainerie staff is really helpful but there are two major impediments.

First, Port Haliguen is a good 1½ miles from the nearest village. Second, finding a boulangerie for your mandatory breakfast croissants and baguette for lunch, let alone a local supermarket, requires a degree in geography and specialisms in map reading and GPS.

But as a one night stop-off for planning your entry to the Morbihan or for further cruising along the coast, it’s perfect since it has an H24 access.

Destination Pornichet and…?

A lone yacht going nowhere in no wind and beautifully flat seas
click to enlarge
So we’d planned for one night only before setting course for a new destination, Pornichet, on the north coast of the mouth of the Loire by St Nazaire.

Thereafter, the (current) plan is to visit Sables d’Olonne and La Rochelle (the locked Les Chalutiers marina – vieux port) where we’ll have our stabilisers fixed and meet John and Beryl who are flying out to spend a fortnight with us as we further explore the coast together.

The WW2 raid on St Nazaire

Lin’s Dad was in the Royal Navy during the last war on the Hunt-class destroyer, HMS Atherstone. Operation Chariot was the raid on St Nazaire with the objective of destroying the gates of the Normandie dock by ramming them with an explosive-packed destroyer, the obsolete HMS Campbeltown, to prevent the dock’s use by the German battleship Tirpitz.

The memory of his account of what happened with HMS Atherstone differs significantly from the history books….

En route

Morning trawling leave a long line of hungry seagulls
click to enlarge
With no serenade from Alain as we left port, Piers let rip on the Kahlenbergs only to find a yacht race in full flight in front of us complete with support vessels buzzing about!

Piloting Play d’eau around the back of the fleet before paralleling and overtaking them, we were astonished to see the yachts were making some 5 knots in just a 2 knot wind. Then we realised they had their engines on so were actually motorboats in disguise.

The whole trip was in flat calm water and uneventful. Addictive.

We have a day off tomorrow (Sunday) and plan to move on to Sables d’Olonne on Monday.

Nav data

Times are FST.

Departed Port la Fôret: 0900, 19 June 2015

At low tide, a small island appears on the Plateau du Four
click to enlarge
Pinchpoints: None
Departed Port Haliguen: 1030
Longest individual leg: 19.9nm
Arrived Pornichet: 1458
Time en route: 4hr 28min
Planned distance: 34.85nm

Tech issues: None

Piers and Lin
from the Chart Table of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

Leg 5 (2015) – Port la Fôret to Port Haliguen

We ate at the wonderfully eccentric Créperie
click to enlarge
A serenade, flat seas, hot sun, dolphins, the ‘joy’ of falling into the middle of a yacht race in crowded waters, and just a touch of sunburn.

The last supper

To celebrate such a brilliant time in Port la Fôret of jazz, more jazz, meeting friends and being in such a beautiful area, we decided to eat out.

With cidre de maison on the table (2 bottles and pottery mugs) at the eccentric Crêperie Quartier d’été we ordered the day’s special: Crèpe Arlette, a gorgeous concoction with fromage de chèvre, confit de cidre, maison salade, et noise. Supremely delicious.

(Maison Salade – begs the question of when will the rest of the world learn how to serve and dress salad rather than just depositing two bits of tomato, a limp lettuce leaf and a sad slice of cucumber on a plate, undressed, with the temerity to call it a garnish?)

To follow we indulged in Crèpe d’Happy, a crèpe froment with green apple sorbet and manzana (wild apple) liqueur. Although we felt full we just had to have another but this time we chose crèpes froment with just sugar and lemon.

Is your mouth watering yet?

Au revoir Port la Fôret

The seas were glassy flat
click to enlarge
A fine, clear, calm day greeted us. Over a coffee (tea for Lin) we checked the weather and prepared for a 9am departure. Slipping the lines we gentled our way to a glassy flat sea which at times sparkled in the sun.

Leaving the pierhead we became aware of – music. Looking back, we saw Alain, the jazz band’s trumpeter, serenading us! We waved, he waved (as much as anyone can with a trumpet to their mouth) and when he stopped I replied with my trumpets, the Kahlenbergs.

What a great send off.

En route

We hadn’t been travelling long before Lin shouted, ‘Dolphins!’ Out came the cameras as they played about a hundred metres away from us.

12 miles from Lorient we spotted an AIS target on our track. It was a Yacht race buoy. Soon, we’d counted 56 yachts racing out of Lorient to a distant buoy way out to our starboard.

Looking at Lin, I said, ‘When they reach that buoy they’ll turn and come for the buoy on our track. We’ll be there just when they arrive. Oh, Joy.’

There’s only on thing to do in these circumstances. Close your eyes and go into denial. Well, not quite, but it’s the thought that counts isn’t it? It must have been because rather than turn and head for us they turned the other way and headed away. Denial works – result!

Quiberon Peninsula

Dolphins, so many of them, came out to perform just for us
click to enlarge
We either took the long way around the rocky outcrops, or we cut the corner and threaded our way through the shallows between the rocks in the En Toull Bras channel. It was only one hour after low tide and at its shallowest point which was also its narrowest point, we’d only have 1m below our keel.

Play d’eau aced it.

Nav data

Times are FST.

Departed Port la Fôret: 0900, 19 June 2015

Pinchpoints: None
Arrived Port Haliguen: 1535
Time en route: 6hr 35min
Planned distance: 52.9nm

Tech issues: None

Piers and Lin
from the Chart Table of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

(click on the photos below to enlarge, and use the left/right arrows)

Quelle surprise

The Cornouaille Jazz Band with Piers
click to enlarge
‘Would you like the jazz band to play on Play d’eau?’ asked Alain. Without even a micro-second hesitation we replied, excitedly, ‘Brilliant!’

Two years ago

It was two years ago that we’d tried to set this up but it hadn’t been possible. The marina was too full take us for the planned date.

Tonight’s the night

But now it would happen. 5 musicians would take up residence on the aft cockpit.

  • Jean-Aubert on banjo and guitar
  • Jean-Francois on tenor saxophone and clarinet
  • Alain on trumpet
  • Georges on drums
  • Michel on bass guitar

and last but not least, Jean-Michel (who sports the most magnificent bushy beard) – the band’s resident vidoegrapher.

The only player who couldn’t make it was Marc who played contrabass, alto and soprano saxophone last Sunday.

We need to prepare

The band warms up on the aft cockpit
click to enlarge
Notes to self: Check ship’s stores and wine cellar.

Peroni lager and white wine into the fridge. Red wine out of the bilge where it’s kept cool. London Pride (real ale) at the ready. Pastis in store, but out of whiskey. Must buy some.

For refreshments, we agree a version of stuffed eggs and plenty of nibbles. No time for anything else.

A walk to the small Carrefort in La Fôret Fouesnant secures said stores. Now to cooking.

The evening

At 7pm, the band begin arriving. All squeeze onto the aft cockpit. First problem – Play d’eau mains supply is through UK sockets. Not French. Alain runs back to his yacht to secure the extension leads and adaptors.

With everyone plugged in the warm up starts. Banjo and tenor sax tune to an A and the others follow. All set?

And off they go. Play d’eau rocks, not so much to the music but to the wakes other boats make as they pass. I announce sick bags are available.

Complete success

Jean-Aubert, band leader and retired heart surgeon, played guitar and banjo
click to enlarge
After some 10 pieces, it’s time to relax and for the band to sample British real ale, Italian lager, Scotch whiskey, Gordon’s Gin, Waitrose orange squash, and Play d’eau ice from Guernsey water.

Lin brings out the stuffed eggs on melba toast which disappear as fast as she can refill the tray. We’d used 14 eggs….

As the band departs amongst fond farewells and threats of making Piers play clarinet next year, we are left with the most magnificent memories possible.

We wonder if a jazz band has ever played on a Fleming before?

Piers and Lin
from the Green Room of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

(click on the photos below to enlarge, and use the left/right arrows)

We had a visitor

The beautiful snow white Little Egret
click to enlarge
A small sound made me look up. An Egret was stalking its dinner in the shallows on the other side of the pontoon. Only a few metres away from me.

What’s for supper?

Slowly and stealthily feeling its way in the shallow of the water’s edge, it would waggle its feet in the sand to stir up anything that might be hiding.

And then it would strike. So fast.

Why here?

Behind Port la Fôret marina is a large brackish lake, home to many migrating sea birds. As the tide ebbs a muddy, sandy expanse is exposed attracting many Heron, Egrets and Terns, all stalking their supper.

The Herons wait, immobile, striking with precision whilst the Terns circle overhead, their short squeaks announcing they’re hunting. In an instant they’ll make a steep turn, fold their wings, dive and plunge with a soft ‘splosh’ into the shallow water, only to fly away a second or so later having gulped their supper. It’s all over in a flash of time.

Little Egret

The Little Egret’s outstandingly beautiful snowy white plumage contrasts with its slim black beak, black legs and yellow feet. Although a member of the heron family, the Little Egret is literally little, growing to only 26″ tall when fully adult.

And yes, he found three fish before flying off.

Piers and Lin
from the Hide of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

(click on the photos below to enlarge, and use the left/right arrows)

Encore, encore

Alain Duhaut, trumpeter of the Cornouaille Jazz Band
click to enlarge
‘Concert at Port La Fôret, Sunday at 16 hours in the same place of there 2 years.’

Alain Duhaut sent me this email just as we leaving Audierne. Alain’s the trumpeter of the Cornouaille Jazz Band which we had the great pleasure of hearing two years ago.

So how exciting is that? His band was going to play again at Port la Fôret – and we’d be there. Quelle coïncidence.

Coast Guard

‘Play d’eau, Play d’eau, Play d’eau, this is Cross Étel. Over.’

We were on passage from Audierne and an hour from Port la Fôret. Why would the Coast Guard be calling me? Cautiously, I responded.

‘What is your destination?’ I was asked. ‘Port la Fôret, over.’ ‘Play d’eau, do you know a M. Alain Duhaut?’ ‘Oui,’ I said, even more cautiously this time. ‘M. Duhaut wants you to know he is monitoring your progress on AIS and will greet you when you arrive.’

The Coastguard relaying personal messages? Wow. But how totally brilliant of Alain.

Arrival

Play d’eau was berthed alongside the bandstand. Perfect.
click to enlarge
On arrival, we were allocated pontoon R just outside the marina. I was about to question this decision when I realised Pontoon R would place us directly opposite the band stand and only 20m away. Did I sense Alan’s hand in this?

We were just finishing putting Play d’eau to bed after the passage when a trumpet played God Save the Queen, followed by the Marseillaise.

‘Alain!’ both Lin and I shouted as we jumped off the boat to very warm greetings.

The day arrived

With my camera rolling, the Cornouaille Jazz Band began. For two hours, the audience was rapt and children danced. We were gloriously entertained by the six enthusiastic players.

I’ll let the photos tell all.

Piers and Lin
from the recording studio of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

(click on the photos below to enlarge, and use the left/right arrows)