Tag Archives: Beaucette Marina Guernsey

Leg 18 (2015) – Sainte Marine to Camaret

The day we left, the dawn sun was glowing through the milky cloud
click to enlarge
Please excuse the lack of photos in this posting – read on and you’ll see why.

We’ve never, ever been in such threatening seas.

Leaving Sainte Marine under a grey and cloudy sky, we headed south with a calm wind onto a flat sea, amongst many yachts. Soon we were heading into a slow, smooth swell which I have to say was rather enjoyable, even soothing.

‘The remnant of yesterday’s swell,’ I said knowingly to Lin.

Before I continue with the story, please excuse the lack of photos. The seas made it almost impossible to take any.

Penmarc’h Peninsula

Turning west to start the long passage around the Penmarc’h Peninsula we were joined by two 14m Dutch yachts out of Port Loctudy, forming a 7½kts cruise in company.

As the swell slowly increased, Lin retired to the saloon to take a Kwell and lie down. Having been in worse conditions around Start Point and Le Cap de la Hague, I was happy to continue. The positive was that the wind remained calm.

At least we had two yachts keeping Play d’eau company for encouragement.

When to abort?

As we were leaving, Yacht Popoff came in. Great name…
click to enlarge
After an hour our companion yachts were half disappearing in the troughs and I was at the point of making the decision to abort and return to Sainte Marine. The swell was now a fairly steep 4 metres.

The issue, though, was how to turn around? Crest to crest was far less than my turning circle and I certainly didn’t want to present Play d’eau broadside to this swell during a turn.

I tussled in my mind. Can it really get much worse? The wind was still calm and the yachts were still with us.

Turning NW

Reaching the westerly point of the Peninsula, the swell was at its worst. By now the yachts and their masts were disappearing in the troughs leaving only their VHF antennas visible. Quite a sight to behold. But I’d be telling an untruth if I said I was enjoying it.

Heading north west for the Raz de Sein, the first encouraging sign was the cloud clearing and the sun coming out. The second encouraging sign was the wind staying calm. The third encouraging sign was that the swell slowly, very slowly, starting to subside.

It took two hours before the swell had settled back to its initial gentle, acceptable rhythm and with no wind, the sea was quite glassy yet at times it looked as though it would shiver and come out in goose bumps. A strange sight.

Play d’eau motored out of Sainte Marine amongst a procession of departing yachts
click to enlarge
Later, Lin told me that when she’d woken, she’d looked out of the saloon windows, seen the sea towering above her at which point she decided denial was the best reality, closed her eyes and went back to sleep.

We mused whether a Kwell thrown into the sea would help have settled it. Maybe not.

Raz de Sein

The plan had been to enter the Raz at slack. Annoyingly, the tide turned some 30 minutes before the Admiralty tide tables and pilot books stated. More lumpy seas? Pah! Used to them now.

Ten yachts and Play d’eau converged on the Raz, yet I have to say that the transit itself was a bit of a non-event.

(Note to self: Remember the 30 minute tidal error error for next time)

Last leg

It took two hours to cross the Baie de Morgat before we arrived in Camaret where we took the last parking slot. We were both somewhat weary.

Two trip highlights

During the last four hours, four separate pods of dolphins came to play with Play d’eau. A wonder to behold and a thankful distraction.

A sunfish with its fin flopping side to side in the air, passed just a few feet away from us. It rolled slightly on its side so we could see eye to eye almost as though it wanted to say something.

Dinner out

The final highlight was dinner. Being so tired, we walked to the nearby Restaurant of the small Hotel Vauban where we ordered large pressions whilst looking at the short menu. Piers chose Melon Soup followed by Mackerel whilst Lin chose baked camembert with honey followed by moules.

Every moment spent waiting to be served was worth it. Each of the dishes was inspired, unexpected and obviously cooked fresh. This chef loves cooking!

A great way to end an ‘interesting’ day’s cruising.

Met data

Sainte Marine: Calm, cloudy, good.
Forecast sea state: Calm, with a slight swell.
Reality: An horendous swell.
Camaret: Calm, clear, good

Nav data

Times are FST.

Date: 6 August 2015
Departed Sainte Marina: 1005
Arrived Camaret: 1720
Pinchpoint: Raz de Sein
Longest leg: 22.3nm
Time en route: 7hr 15min
Planned distance: 57.1nm

Tech issues: None.

Piers and Lin
from the Pilot House of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

Leg 17 (2015) – Lorient to Sainte Marine

An aerial pic showing the entrance to Lorient is guarded by the Citadel
click to enlarge
The forecast knew it, we knew it, and it was – lumpy.

But well worth it to reach Sainte Marine from which we can judge the attack on the Finistère Peninsula. Camaret, L’Aber Wrac’h and Roscoff, here we come.

Time off

We’ve always liked Port Louis. It’s a small, ancient town built to defend the entrance to Lorient’s inland sea. The marina is really well protected and has had a complete make-over during the last few years.

More of this when I publish a separate report on Port Louis marina.

Our neighbour was a lovely 1976 Nicolson 39 ketch, a twin masted, beautifully built yacht, called Galloper. We had a great evening with its owners, Dave and Lorna, before we each went our own way to eat out, only to find we were booked into the same Crèperie!

Au revoir Port Louis

The forecast was a SE4 with a southerly 1½m swell thrown up by a depression swirling around in the Atlantic. Well, the wind would be behind us and the swell shouldn’t be too much of a problem.

With Piers on warps, Lin took Play ‘deau off her berth soon after sunrise. Exiting the narrow entrance Play d’eau came face to face with two commercial ships, one large trawler, a high speed Pilot boat, a yacht and a tug. Pah! Nothing to Skipper Lin.

En route

We had a great evening with Dave and Lorna of yacht Galloper
click to enlarge
The forecast was spot on although the swell was more from the SW than the S, and at times was parallel to us, making the stabilisers work overtime although the ride wasn’t the comfiest we’d ever had.

The wind stayed pretty constant, hovering between a SE4 and SE5. The swell was as forecast with the added attraction (is that the right word?) of some wave slop on top.

Coast Guard

‘Play d’eau, Play d’eau, ici Cross Étel, à vous.’

Was that for us or was there another Play d’eau around? I waited, ready to growl if ‘another Play d’eau’ dared respond. None did. ‘Cross Étel,’ I answered trying to sound authoritative. ‘Ici Play d’eau.’

A stream of French followed. The only part I understood was, ‘…à vous.’ ‘Pardon,’ I said, ‘Je suis Anglais. Je ne comprend pas.’ ‘Play d’eau, this is Cross Étel. Mr Duhait wants you to know he will greet you in Sainte Marine this afternoon.’

That’s the second time Alain’s managed to persuade the Coast Guard to call me! How does he do it? Maybe it’s a member of his Jazz Band?

Sainte Marine

Casting off at 0700, we exited the marina and passed the Lorient waterbus as the sun was rising
click to enlarge
Entering the channel into the River Odet, Sainte Marine is on the east side with Benodet on the west.

The tide was in a full 4kt ebb creating significant standing waves in the narrow ½nm long channel. Dodging between tacking yachts, capsized windsurfers, small capsized catamarans, large catamarans seemingly taking up the rest of the channel, the lifeboat (no-one wearing lifejackets) that squeezed between us and small yacht, not to mention the exposed rocks in the middle of the channel, Play d’eau motored sedately, elegantly and gloriously between them all to be met by the Harbour Master and escorted to her berth.

When next?

When is the question, not where. We will either make for Camaret tomorrow (Thursday) or the next day, depending on how muich the swell dies down and the wind become favourable for the passage through the Ra de Sein.

Watch this space….

Met data

Trawlers take no prisoners – speed and wake come second to selling their catch
click to enlarge
Lorient: SE4, clear, good.
Sea state: 1½m south westerly swell, at times SE5
Sainte Marine: SE4, cloudy, good

Nav data

Times are FST.

Date: 5 August 2015
Departed Lorient: 0700
Arrived Sainte Marine: 1155
Pinchpoint: The tidal flow when entering Sainte Marine
Longest leg: 17nm
Time en route: 4hr 55min
Planned distance: 61.6nm

Tech issues: None.

Piers and Lin
from the Pilot House of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

(click on the photos below to enlarge, and use the left/right arrows)

Leg 16 (2015) – Pornichet to Lorient Port Louis

The July 2015 blue moon taken at 0530
click to enlarge
Having had a dinner of Lin’s luscious mince (heavy on the onions, mushrooms and thick, shiny gravy) accompanied with sweet corn and peas and followed by cantaloupe melon with a touch of framboise liqueur and lime juice, we fell into bed soon after 8pm.

I was up at 0500.

Northwards Ho!

The forecast had come good. A final weather check showed that if we transited the west side of the Quiberon Peninsula at noon, the wind would be at slack. What could be better, given the westerly swell there can heap over the shallows.

That meant an ETD of 0800.

Goodbye Pornichet

Spot on 0800, with a coffee in my hand to look ultra-cool to onlookers, we slipped warps and motored out of the marina’s S-bend entrance, built to protect westerly swells from entering and disturbing the peace.

Heading west, the brisk easterly 15kt wind was directly behind us. Given we were on a falling tide, the ride was flat and stable. Lovely for a crisp morning departure.

En route

To complement the blue moon, the effect of the sunrise was also spectacular
click to enlarge
The passage turned out to be somewhat uneventful. No-one tried to crash into Play d’eau; no-one even threatened us. In fact, it was quite boring with no-one to grumble at about COLREGS to make us feel holier than thou.

As you know, we’d originally planned to anchor off the east coast of the Île d’Houat in of its idyllic sandy bays on our return journey. Sadly, the weather disrupted this idea.

Passing to the west of the island showed us two more glorious and protected bays. Seeing this showed us that whatever the direction the wind was blowing, a night at anchor was possible somewhere around the lovely island.

True to plan, as we approached the Quiberon Peninsula, the tide was slack and the wind had died off. The rest of the journey was on a flat, almost glassy sea with no wind.

Port Louis

Having approached Lorient via the eastern channel, we entered and turned to starboard for Port Louis where we were met by the Harbour Master in his new orange RIB, sporting matching orange framed sunglasses – cool.

We were led to the hammerhead of Pontoon B. Another lovely mooring.

Given the weather forecast and our timing, we’ll probably stay here until Wednesday when we’ll head for Sainte-Marine to explore the River Odet before leaving for Camaret on the 8th August. All to the revised plan.

Met data

Pornichet’s entrance is an S-bend to keep unwanted westerley swells at bay
click to enlarge
Pornichet: NW4, clear at 0500, becoming cloudy by 0800, good
Sea state: 1½m steep westerly swell becoming smooth
Lorient: Clear skies, NW1

Nav data

Times are FST.

Date: 1 August 2015
Departed Pornichet: 0800
Arrived Port Louis: 1432
Pinchpoint: Quiberon Peninsula
Longest leg: 21.7nm
Time en route: 7hr 25min
Planned distance: 61.6nm

Tech issues: Having been saying nil, there was nothing new on this sector. But we have a list of seven items that need engineering attention on return to Beaucette.

Piers and Lin
from the Pilot House of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

(click on the photos below to enlarge, and use the left/right arrows)

Leg 15 (2015) – Les Sables d’Olonne to Pornichet

The day we left, the sunrise was setting the town on fire
click to enlarge
The decision was taken to make as much headway north as reasonably possible.

Northwards Ho!

After nine days in Les Sables d’Olonne of wintry cold, windy and rainy days, we had an ETD of 0700. We knew the westerly swell would be a short and steep 1½m for the first two hours but it would gradually diminish as we passed between Île d’Yeu and the mainland, destination Pornichet.

With a gentle NW2, at 0707 we quietly singled the warps, removed shore power, started Play d’eau’s Cummins engines, edged out of the Olona marina and into the fairway with a glorious sunrise and her early morning light warm on our backs.

Olona marina

Given the negative comments we’d heard about the Olona marina, we’d always chosen to stay at Quai Garnier. This time, we visited Olona simply because of our previous experience of excessive and endless noise and copious quantities of dirt at Quai Garnier, earlier this trip.

Contrary to hearsay, we found Olona peaceful and clean. We had an excellent berth (A46) and the Super U was only a five minutes walk away.

It’s sad, since Quai Garnier’s Harbour Master, Wesley, and his assistant, Plaideau, were so helpful. So would we return to Quai Garnier? Yes, but we’d have to say provided noise levels had dropped and the dirt from offloading cargo vessels had significantly decreased.

En Route

The modern, smart Olona Marina Capitainerie
click to enlarge
Almost as soon as we exited the pierheads and turned west and north west to round the town of Les Sables, the swell made its presence known. Play d’eau and her crew nodded up and down in a somewhat exuberant manner for the next two hours until we were running up the coast between Île d’Yeu and the mainland.

Knowing this is where we almost hooked a net two years ago, we doubled our watch. True to form, we spotted a net just below the surface with only two white markers some 500m apart.

Play d’eau performed a tight pirouette of which the London Ballet would have been proud, missed the net and plotted her way around it whilst we breathed a sigh of relief.

Grand Rade de La Loire

By the time we came to the Grand Rade there was only the slightest breath of wind and the swell was exhausted. It was calm. For a bit of excitement, our track took us through 14 anchored cargo vessels the largest of which was the SCF Valdai at 237m.

Pornichet

The final approach to Pornichet was through a yacht race which for some reason was being held tight across the marina and its S-bend entrance. Tough, Play d’eau was constrained by draught in the narrow channel and racing offers no additional rights of way.

Without incident, comment or raised voice, we entered the marina and settled into our berth.

Met data

We woke to find this cargo vessel on the other side of the marina. Was it capsized?
click to enlarge
Les Sables d’Olonne: NW2, clear, good
Sea state: 1½m steep westerly swell becoming smooth
Pornichet: Clear skies, NW1

Nav data

Times are FST.

Date: 30 July 2015
Departed Les Sables: 0707 (7 minutes late – call of nature)
Arrived Pornichet: 1432
Pinchpoint: None
Longest leg: 21.7nm
Time en route: 7hr 25min
Planned distance: 61.6nm

Tech issues: Nil

Piers and Lin
from the Pilot House of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

(click on the photos below to enlarge, and use the left/right arrows)

Quadcopter No2

Cleared for take-off
click to enlarge
Having drowned our first Phantom Vision quadcopter in the most spectacular manner in Beaucette Marina a year ago (please don’t ask…) maybe you can understand my reticence to fly its replacement.

Quadcopter No2

Having carried No2 in Play d’eau’s pilot house ever since but never having had the courage to fly it, it’s been hassling me every day saying, ‘Come on! I want to fly. Are you a pilot or not?’

So with renewed (provoked?) confidence but with great caution and readings of manuals, I’ve been practising and taking pics and videos.

Trials

Ab-initio training started in a park with acres of land and no water. Soon, confidence returned.

Spot landings were on the agenda since I’d be operating either from the aft cockpit of Play d’eau or a pontoon.

Success!

Quad 2, you’re cleared to land…
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Being the quiet and undemonstrative sort of chap that I am, I have to say that it’s been quite successful. I’ve managed some half decent videos and stills as well.

Now I have to learn how to edit and link them to Play d’eau’s website – and can one add music to them?

Helpful advice is really welcome.

Piers
from Play d’eau’s College of Quadcopter Training
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

Ambushed by the weather

8am this morning, and endless black clouds and high winds assail us
click to enlarge
Own up – who turned our brilliant weather off?

The 6 weeks following our departure from Audierne on 12th June have been utterly glorious. Sun cream by the gallon (well, not quite), calm seas and blue skies, all courtesy of a friendly Azores high pressure system spreading its wings over Play d’eau. It was perfect.

But the moment John and Beryl left nine days ago, we’ve had thunder storms and high winds created by an endless march of depression after depression which have won the battle and sent the high pressure running.

Where now?

Good question. So far we’ve been holed up in Les Sables d’Olonne for six days and the first weather window seems to be next Thursday. If so, we’ll have been in Les Sables for nine days when we only intended one.

Our plan had been to visit Île d’Yeu, Pornic, Roche Bernard in the La Vilaine River, anchor off one of the beautiful, small islands of the Quiberon Peninsula, moving onto Lorient, the Glénans archipelago known as the Breton Tahiti, and finally Port la Fôret before heading for Camaret on the Finistère Peninsula on or around 9th August.

Looking further into the forecasts brings even more depressions. Growl.

Battle plan

Well, two can play at this weather game. So, planning for the worst, rather than seven stops en route to Camaret with time off to play at each, we’ll do it in three. Pornichet, Lorient and Sainte Marine, taking any available weather window.

Meanwhile, if another high pressure graces us with its presence and banishes the depressions, we’ll stay and play. If it doesn’t, at least we know ‘the plan’.

You see, there’s always next year….

Piers and Lin
from the Meteorological Observatory of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

Leg 14 (2015) – St Martin de Ré to Les Sables d’Olonne

St Martin de Ré marina, taken from our quadcopter
click to enlarge
John and Beryl’s fortnight of cruising on Play d’eau had come to an end.

Amidst tears, damp handkerchiefs and endless wavings, the taxi drove slowly down the road, over the roundabout and on to La Rochelle’s airport. We stood a while, looking, and hoping beyond hope that the taxi would turn around and come back.

You see, John and Beryl are accepted as part of the family. We recognise this, my parents recognised this, as do our children. Family occasions of all sorts just wouldn’t be the same if John and Beryl weren’t there.

That’s why it was so hard to say goodbye.

St Martin de Ré

Surrounded by its early 17th Century fortifications originally designed by Cardinal Richelieu and later strengthened by Vauban, the small town of St Martin on the Île de Ré gleams with worn pavements, small alleyways adorned with hollyhocks, and square stone buildings with blue shutters and roofs of old, warm orange Mediterranean tiles.

A moat surrounds the fort’s inner sanctum half of which is locked to form the marina. No longer a citadel, the inner sanctum is now a few small street cafés and shops. St Martin de Ré is abuzz with life.

The weather changed

The small town is a maze of alleyways adorned with Hollyhocks
click to enlarge
Almost as soon as John and Beryl left, the weather changed.

Winds increased and the seas began to deliver a short, marked swell. Temperatures dropped and the humidity rose uncomfortably high.

The next two nights saw lightning and dramatic thunder storms bringing rain laden with copious amounts of dirt and dust held suspended for these last many weeks. Play d’eau became filthy and needed another one of her soapy bubble baths.

Where now?

Given only Lin and I were on board, it was quiet. No exciting tastings of the challenge to find a drinkable red wine as close to €2 as possible (it was €1 nine years ago); John wasn’t there to raise or strike the ensign at the correct times (two alarm clocks as reminders), or to source morning croissants. The list goes on. As I said, it was quiet.

Interestingly, it didn’t seem to matter where we went now. We couldn’t make our minds up. We found ourselves saying, ‘John and Beryl would have loved…’

The option was either Les Sables d’Olonne (again) or the beautiful, small Île d’Yeu. With the weather closing in our feeling of adventure was at a low ebb. We chose the safe option of Les Sables, but to use the Olona marina rather than Quai Garnia.

Our homeward journey northwards had to start.

Our last night

Having had such a great meal at Les Embruns with John and Beryl we had to return before leaving.

Welcomed back by the Chef to this small, boutique restaurant with its 13 tables, we had another magnificent meal. Some of the most adventurous and exciting cooking we’d had in years. We tried calling John and Beryl to share the fun. The calls went unanswered.

En route

The crew of this white, British yacht was fast asleep on the deck in their sleeping bags
click to enlarge
The lock gate opened at 7am, but a large, white, British wooden yacht was in the way. We couldn’t bring ourselves to wake the young crew so fast asleep on the deck in their sleeping bags. It was two hours before they woke and moved the yacht, allowing us to motor gently out of the marina into the moat and out of the fortifications.

Being sheltered by the island, the sea was flat. A number of shoals of sardines were creating energetic ruffles on the surface. We wondered what was chasing them for their breakfast.

As we neared the north of the island the swell rose and the ride became uncomfy.

Nearing Les Sables, the numerous trawlers and small fishing boats which inhabit (plague?) this area appeared on the radar.

Checking into Olona’s Capitainerie we were given one of the best moorings in this large but quiet marina.

Where next- and when?

The weather has certainly changed. The wind and swell are both high angered by a series of tight depressions ganging up against the west coast. The forecast shows we could be stuck in Les Sables for well over a week.

So where next? We have no idea. We may end up making an unsightly dash up the west coast and around the Finistère Peninsula to be in Roscoff for the 19 August where we hope to pick up our next guest, David, whom we’ve known since the early 1970s. We’ll see.

Met data

Les Embruns served some of the most exciting and adventurous food we’ve had in years
click to enlarge
St Martin de Ré: NW2, 8/8 cloud (stratus), good, calm with a swell
Sea state: 1½m swell from the west
Les Sables d’Olonne: Clear skies, NW3

Nav data

Times are FST.

Date: 21 July 2015
Departed St Martin de Ré: 0920
Arrived Les Sables d’Olonne: 1242
Pinchpoint: St Martin lock times
Longest leg: 17.5nm
Time en route: 3hr 22min
Planned distance: 25.9nm

Tech issues: Nil

Piers and Lin
from the Pilot House of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

(click on the photos below to enlarge, and use the left/right arrows)

Leg 13 (2015) – La Rochelle to St Martin de Ré

We anchoed in 3m of water in this glorious bay
click to enlarge
I was in the middle of a lovely dream when the alarm rudely intruded and woke me. We had an hour before we needed to be hovering outside the 0645 lock, ready to exit the Les Chalutiers basin.

Today, the destination was St Martin de Ré.

Plan A

First, a hearing check. Thankfully, all eight of our collective’s ears were in good working condition despite the previous night’s Franco Folies’ best attempts to increase the sales of hearing aids.

Second, the mandatory visit to the boulangerie for our breakfast croissants and pains au chocolat.

Third, a review of the proposed passage: lock out at 0645, motor to a lovely sandy bay on the south east coast of the Île de Ré, anchor, have breakfast, swim and have lunch before motoring north along the east coast of the island to take the first lock into the heavily fortified town of St Martin.

Plan B

John dived off Play d’eau and swam in the 23°C sea
click to enlarge
Given the cloudy skies and breezy weather, we implemented plan B and nipped into the close-by Les Minimes marina to wait for the weak weather front to pass. Spending time at anchor in these conditions would not be pleasant.

Two hours after croissants the sun came out, the breeze disappeared and the waters calmed. Time to revert to Plan A.

Anchoring out

What a great time we had. The sunlit bay was a pure delight.

Having anchored in 3m of water, Beryl and Lin sat on the transom dangling their feet in the sea whilst John showed us to be the wimps we were by diving in and having a great swim.

St Martin, here we come

After 40 minutes of motoring we entered the fortified walls of St Martin, passed through the open lock and were directed to the same mooring we’d had two years ago.

It’s such a treat to be back here. Such a beautiful ancient town. A gem.

Met data

An alien spacecraft disguised as a boat?
click to enlarge
La Rochelle: NE3/4, low cloud cover, moderate visibility
Sea state: Choppy
St Martin de Ré: N2, clear skies, hot sun, no loud music

Nav data

Times are FST.

Date: 15 July 2015
Departed La Rochelle: 0645
Arrived St Martin de Ré: 1520
Pinchpoint: Les Chalutiers and St Martin lock times
Navigation: Pilotage
Time en route: 8hr 35min, inlcuding time in Les Minimes and anchoring time
Planned distance: 11.6nm

Tech issues: Nil

Piers and Lin
from the Pilot House of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

(click on the photos below to enlarge, and use the left/right arrows)

What on earth is it?

En route to La Rochelle the other day, we saw an extremely fast and strange shaped boat in the distance.

We didn’t have time to target it on radar – it seemed to disappear as fast as it came.

What is it?

Whilst in Les Minimes yesterday, we found it. But what on earth is it?

Have I been watching too much Star Trek?

Piers and Lin
from the Master Mind studio of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

(click on the photos below to enlarge, and use the left/right arrows)

Leg 12 (2015) – St Denis d’Oléron to La Rochelle

Staging for the threatened ‘Pop Concert Énorm’ was assembled in St Denis
click to enlarge
As the staging for a ‘Grand Groupe Pop Orchestre’ was being assembled, a large multi-coloured van was prowling around with its public address system booming to one and all that a ‘Pop Concert Énorme’ would be held in the marina ‘Ce Soir’.

It was our cue to depart. Leaving the concert énorme behind we made our escape, motored out of the marina and along the narrow fairway between the channel markers.

Anaesthetised

With Play d’eau having been the collision target for so many boats (is it something we’ve done?), we’ve become anaesthetised to being surprised.

Only once on this short passage were we attacked. A small 18′ motor boat from the St Denis Bateau École was hovering outside the fairway ahead and to port of us. Engaging its outboard engine, it turned, sped up, and made to cross the fairway aiming just ahead of us.

‘Here we go, again,’ I said to John. ‘How many COLREGS is this one about to disobey?’

This Newfoundland dog, keeping an eye on the skipper, was bigger and heavier than any of its crew
click to enlarge
All five on board the small boat were seemed to be talking at the same time to the poor chap under training, probably drowning the student with ‘wise guidance’ oblivious of what was happening or where they were going.

With my finger hovering to fire five shots from the Kahlenbergs, I held off. Were any of the five people on board the training boat looking out? Ah, one of them, leaning against the stern, looked up and saw us. Would he alert the others? No. Was he hypnotised? Was he so excited at the thought of the concert énorme that he couldn’t speak?

We watched in amazement. With power off, we slowed down and the Bateau École gently slipped in front of us. Only as the boat passed under our bow did they look up. None looked surprised. Some even waved, and I think the word they uses was ‘Bonjour’.

Énorme becomes Gigantic

We thought we’d escaped until we neared La Rochelle and saw the most gigantic staging, and above the sound of our engines we felt, more than heard, bass with a power that defied explanation. We vibrated.

Although half a mile away from where we were berthed, the noise was horrendous. Thankfully, it stopped sometime around 3.30am.

Next morning

Dusk fell on the marina front in St Denis
click to enlarge
Somewhat blurry eyed, we surfaced, yawned, stretched, scratched, made teas and coffees and opened the saloon doors only to see staging being erected immediately behind us on the waterfront.

We learned that at 10am sharp a military parade would be made in front of local dignitaries. So not another concert, just a parade.

Being next to the waterfront, we decided to dress Play d’eau overall. We had twenty minutes before ‘kick-off’. We made it. She looked lovely.

People began assembling, military began lining up, PA systems were checked, and at 10am sharp – nothing happened. It seemed no one knew what to do. With many discussions, scratching of kepis and examinations of clipboards, someone began introducing the assembly forty minutes later.

We never quite understood what the parade was for. Yes, there was a lot to say over the PA, and yes, some decorations were handed out, and yes, someone inspected the parade, and yes, colours were paraded with much marching music played over the PA.

With a final march pass it was over. Whilst dignitaries left in their cars and some on their motorcycles, we undressed Play d’eau and had lunch.

Met data

Sea sports are taught from year dot
click to enlarge
St Denis d’Oléron: WSW3, cloudy, hot sun, good visibility
Sea state: Smooth, with a swell from the west
La Rochelle: W3, clear skies, hot sun, and loud music

Nav data

Times are FST.

Date: 13 July 2015
Departed St Denis: 1128
Arrived La Rochelle (lock): 1500
Pinchpoint: Access to Les Chalutiers
Longest individual leg: 4.2nm
Time en route: 1hr 32min
Planned distance: 11.2nm

Tech issues: Nil

Piers and Lin
from the Pilot House of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

(click on the photos below to enlarge, and use the left/right arrows)