All posts by Piers du Pré

Celeriac soup

14 July 2013 Piers du Pré Leave a comment

What a delicious soup this is. Whether you love or dislike celeriac or even know what it is (!) you will like this soup.

Celaric - not the best looking veg on the market stall — Celaric – not the prettiest veg on the market stall
*click to enlarge*

Again, the recipe for our celeriac soup has been developed over the last few years, ensuring it’s kept simple whilst maximising on flavour.

For the soup – at least 6 servings

1 medium/large Celeriac
150gm Salted butter
½ ltr Vegetable stock
Sea salt

For serving

50gm Salted butter
100ml Double cream
Crème Fraiche
Finely chopped Chives
Crouton Soldiers
Truffle oil

After liquidising, the celariac soup should be beautifully smooth
*click to enlarge*

You will need

Saucepan
Hand-held or small stand-alone liquidiser
Bowl

Making the Celeriac soup

Trim the celeriac and remove the outer layer of skin. You only want the white flesh. Take care, since this veg is a tough old thing and needs a sharp knife to cut it. Take care of your fingers.

Slice the celeriac into 2cm cubes. Hint: If there’s likely to be a delay between cubing the celeriac and starting to cook it, cover the cubes in a bowl of water with some lemon juice to stop the celeriac turning brown.

Melt the butter in a large pan, add the celeriac and stir with a wooden spoon to ensure everything is covered with butter.

Cover the pan and cook gently over a low to medium heat (don’t burn the butter) for 10 minutes, stirring every two minutes to keep everything covered in butter.

After these ten minutes are up, add enough stock to cover the celeriac and cook over a medium heat until the celeriac is just soft.

The Celaraic soup before the 'dollop' of crème fraiche is added — The Celaraic soup before the ‘dollop’ of crème fraiche is added
*click to enlarge*

Remove the pan from the heat and allow it to cool a bit before liquidising really well. If it’s too thick for the liquidiser, add more stock or fresh milk.

Provided you’ve liquidised it well there’s no need to sieve this soup.

Return it to the heat and add salt as required. You may be surprised how much is needed but you’ll know when it’s just right – it’s obvious.

Don’t add pepper. The black specs will spoil the look.

Serving the Celeriac soup

Pour the soup into a clean pan and reheat – do not boil – and add the double cream. Stir well and check if it needs any more salt.

Finally, check the consistency is right. Add more stock or milk to thin, or keep on the heat to thicken.

Pour into warm bowls and add a sprinkling of chopped chives and a drizzle of truffle oil on top.

Chives, truffle oil and the 'dollop' of crème fraiche just make this soup — Chives, truffle oil and the ‘dollop’ of crème fraiche just make this soup
*click to enlarge*

Finally, place a small dollop (a Play d’eau technical term) of crème fraiche on the top of each serving.

Each person should have six Soldier Croutons.

Additional touches

As with most soups, leaving them in the fridge to ‘mature’ brings a greater depth of flavour. Keeps well in the freezer.

This soup is also great as an Amuse Bouche, served either hot or cold without the croutons.

Coming soon…

Poached eggs that look so good
Vinaigrette dressing using a raspberry vinegar

Piers and Lin
from the Galley of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.

Cruising

Leg 9 – Île d’Yeu to Les Sables d’Olonne – 11 July 2013

12 July 2013 Piers du Pré 3 Comments

The forecast was right. The NE’ly had reached F5 again. Looking over the harbour wall showed a mass of white. Masts of departing yachts were ‘bucking like broncos’ as they made headway with water cascading over their bows. I suspect that if I was a yachtsman, I’d be shouting, ‘Yee Ha!’ – or is that Dave of Yacht Akemi I hear?

Decision criteria

The chart of our planned SE'ly track to Sables d'Olonne — The chart of our planned SE’ly track to Les Sables d’Olonne
*click to enlarge*

We’d normally wait until the wind and seas died right down. I mean, why have an uncomfy ride?

So what was the pressure to leave? First, the forecast was continuing with NE’ly F5/F6 for the next five days; not good. Second, the national French swarm starts this weekend possibly precluding a future mooring; not good. Third, I want to take Lin to dinner on our (41st) wedding anniversary on 15 July and restaurants in Île d’Yeu leave everything to be desired. Fourth, we need to be in La Rochelle for the 26 July – a long time away, but still a pressure.

Looking afresh at the chart, our track would be SE meaning a beam sea, reducing the closer we inched (centimetred?) to the mainland. That would be OK given we have stabilisers. So the main ‘nasty’ would be the first 1.3nm as we left Port Joinville whilst heading NE straight into wind and swell to clear shallow ground before turning SE just south of the Basse Mayence NCM.

The SE corner of Ile d'Yeu. Why don't photos ever show how rough it really is? — The SE corner of Ile d’Yeu. Why don’t photos ever show how rough it really is?
*click to enlarge*

Decision – if we were happy to take a head sea, we’d go providing we saw the wind drop to F4 by midday. We were, and it did.

The journey

By 1145 the wind had dropped to a mid-F4. Lin had rigged Play d’eau for ‘silent running’ (everything stowed and battened down) so we left.

Between the breakwaters we began to experience the head seas. Once out of the breakwaters and heading straight into the wind and swell, it become ‘exciting’ but in no way fearful. Play d’eau is just brilliant. Sea spray was flying everywhere!

Just to make the point, five of the yachts we’d seen leave earlier that morning had turned around and were returning….

Once we’d turned SE, the ride became manageable, and the more the journey progressed the more the seas quietened and the ride became enjoyable.

Port Garnier, Sables d'Olonne — Port Garnier, Les Sables d’Olonne
*click to enlarge*

Arriving

Arriving at Les Sables d’Olonne was ease itself. Although the wind had risen to F6 it was from over the land so the sea was flat. We radioed Quai Garnier, were given a berth, and we moored up. Simples.

Play d’eau was covered in salt from the seas we’d taken. We’ll give her a good soapy bath in the morning.

The tecky details

1226 FST – Departed Port Joinville, Île d’Yeu
1646 FST – Arrived Les Sables d’Olonne
Planned distance – 29.7nm
Longest leg – 22.4nm – Basse Conche to the Petite Barge SCM
Tech issues – Stbd engine, small oil leak detected from the gearbox into the flywheel housing

Piers and Lin
from the Pilot House of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.

Cruising

A bus, a walk, a marriage, and another bus

11 July 2013 Piers du Pré 3 Comments

The proof that we took the bus!
*click to enlarge*

Lin won. It was 27°C and exceedingly hot.

I said we should hire a car with air-con; Lin said we should walk. Between these two extremes were hiring a mini-moke or cycling for which there are many Location de Vélos in Port Joinville.

In the end and by mutual agreement, we agreed a compromise. We’d walk. Lin began studying the map of this lovely 10km x 4km Île d’Yeu.

The bus…

We took the 1412 No 1 bus for its 17 minute journey from outside the Marie (the start of its route) across the island to the Plage des Sabias (the end of its route), whence we’d start our walk.

All roads on the island are really small, much smaller than Guernsey’s, and most buildings are painted white with Wedgwood blue shutters.

The coast we followed along the south of Ile d'Yeu — The coast we followed along the south of Ile d’Yeu
*click to enlarge*

Very much a Caribbean look and feel.

…the walk…

Having plastered ourselves with factor 30, we set off for the hour’s walk along the coast path which looked very similar to Guernsey’s south coast path, but scaled down.

En route was the 14th century ‘Le Vieux Château’, the Island’s only fortification, which becomes surrounded by the sea as the tide rises.

All that’s left is the main castle, but in its hey-day, the castle occupied a considerable area – see the pic.

Journey’s end was Port de la Meule, a tiny, pretty harbour mainly used by crab and lobster fishermen.

…the marriage…

Bride and Groom and Dad catch the bus home from the reception
*click to enlarge*

Just before climbing on board the No 5 bus for the return journey (the start of its route), a bride and groom appeared from the Port’s small but busy café. They’d just been married, had their reception at the café and needed to catch the bus back to the Port. I began taking photos…

In the bus they made straight for the back seats from where the groom asked if I would take some pictures of them with his camera.

They were so in love and so happy. Humbling.

…the bus

The No 5 took 11 minutes to return us to the Marie at Port Joinville (the end of its route).

We didn’t turn our heads to see what might be happening on the back seats.

Piers and Lin
from the Saloon of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.

The reception was held at this café at Port de la Meule — The reception was held at
the café at Port de la Meule
*click to enlarge*

Port de la Meule, the only other port on this small island — Port de la Meule is the only other port on this small island
*click to enlarge*

The description of Le Vieux Chateau, showing the size it used to be — The description of Le Vieux Chateau showing the size it used to be
*click to enlarge*

Le Vieux Chateau, which becomes an island as the tide rises — Le Vieux Chateau which becomes an island as the tide rises
*click to enlarge*

Cruising

Out of Brittany into Vendée

9 July 2013 Piers du Pré 3 Comments

Oops! We hadn’t realised that by moving south from Vannes to Île d’Yeu we were leaving the Department of Brittany and sailing into that of Vendée, a department in the Pays de la Loire region of west central France.

We realised our error soon after arriving at Port Joinville where almost no Brittany courtesy ensigns were to be seen – apart from ours.

After Googling, and with no appearance of haste whatsoever (of course), down came our Brittany courtesy ensign. After finding the local Chandlery, up went that for Vendée.

Our humble apologies to Vendée.

Piers and Lin
from the Pilot House of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.

The courtesy ensign of Vendée, now being worn from Play d'eau's port crosstrees — The courtesy ensign of Vendée now being worn from *Play d’eau’s* port crosstrees
*click to enlarge*

The courtesy ensign of Brittany was hastily replaced by that of Vendée
*click to enlarge*

Cruising

Leg 8 – Vannes to Île d’Yeu – 5 July 2013

6 July 2013 Piers du Pré

Yacht Aquitaine (Chris and Sue) were our hosts
*click to enlarge*

I confess that far too much Breton cider and Pastis was consumed and far too many olives fresh from the buzzing farmers’ market that morning; black in herbs and green in pesto. We had been invited for drinks by retired Chris and Sue of Aquitaine, a British yacht moored three places along the pontoon from us, together with their friends who were cruising in company with them on Lady Day.

Chris and Sue keep Aquitaine close by at La Roche Bernard on the La Vilaine river. Having cruised the area extensively for many years I took advantage of their local knowledge.

The plan takes shape

Taking Chris’ advice that we needed to see the off-lying islands before the annual French swarm begins on 14 July, we planned to go straight to Port Joinville on the Île d’Yeu and stay for a few days or more before returning to the mainland. A telephone call to the Harbour Master secured a mooring and the plan came together.

The Kerino swing bridge opened and we were off — The Kerino swing bridge opened, three greens came on and we were off
*click to enlarge*

The forecast promised a week of light NE’ly winds, high temperatures and clear skies from an Azores high of 1028mb. In honour, we erected the flybridge bimini cover to protect us from the impending rays.

The nav plan

The only pinch point for the route was the need to be at Vannes’ Kerino swing bridge at 0730, the morning’s only opening.

The Journey

Starting grey and overcast, by midday the forecasters were right. The clear blue sky had appeared and it was hot, very hot.

A small queue of boats waited for the 0730 Kerino swing bridge. As we exited into the narrow channel we came head to head with a coaster about to moor at the small commercial dock. Pulling as far over to the side of the channel as we dared the coaster slid by. Its skipper made a point of thanking us. Nice one.

We edged to the left of the narrow channel to make way for this coaster
*click to enlarge*

The ebb tide carried us all the way to the mouth of the Golfe averaging an extra 2kts which peaked at 5½kts close to the Grand Mouton.

Apart from one really silly fisherman in his small boat being intent on preventing a British boat from overtaking him by intentionally weaving to and fro in front of us, the ten mile journey through the Golfe was uneventful. My finger itched towards the Kahlenbergs but with discretion being the better part of valour I restrained myself, waited my time, attacked and won.

Passing close to the many reefs and islands which extend to the SE of Presq’ile de Quiberon, we espied some lovely places to anchor, especially the beach on the east of Hoedic. We marked map.

From Presq’ile to Île d’Yeu, we had a calm open Atlantic sea, its gentle swell, and a hot sun. It was lovely in the shade under the bimini.

Arriving

The tide was ebbing fast by the Grand Mouton beacon
*click to enlarge*

Île d’Yeu slowly appeared out of the haze seven hours after leaving Vannes and we pulled into the Port Joinville marina just ahead of schedule and the Harbour Master guided us to our berth. Perfect.

The tecky details

0720 FST – Departed Vannes
1558 – Arrived Port Joinville
Planned distance – 67nm
Longest leg – 29.1nm – Sud Banc Guerande SCM to Port Joinville WP
Tech issues – nil

Piers and Lin
from the Pilot House of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.

Lin at the flybridge helm under the bimini for shade from a very hot sun
*click to enlarge*

Play d'eau's wake en route to Ile d'Yeu — *Play d’eau’s* wake en route to Ile d’Yeu
*click to enlarge*

Cruising

Vannes – the farmers’ market

6 July 2013 Piers du Pré 3 Comments

It’s rare to find such an extensive farmers’ market. We’ll let the photos do the talking.

Picture postcards of Vannes’ farmers’ market

Oi! Who are you lookin' at? — Oi! Who are you lookin’ at?
*click to enlarge*

Nougat by the kilo - we bought some.... — Nougat by the kilo…we bought some….
*click to enlarge*

Lobsters by the dozen
*click to enlarge*

Ah! Langoustines by the hundredweight
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Henley doesn't get all the strawberries — Henley doesn’t get all the strawberries
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Flowers for all occasions
*click to enlarge*

Fruit stalls were everywhere
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Even the humble radish has its own display
*click to enlarge*

Olives of all varieties and flavours - memories of Ganges — Olives of all varieties and flavours – memories of Ganges
*click to enlarge*

Rose garlic was only one of many varieties
*click to enlarge*

Piers and Lin
from the Saloon of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.

Cruising

Vannes – a medieval town

6 July 2013 Piers du Pré Leave a comment

A potted history

The walled town of Vannes
*click to enlarge*

Founded by the Romans in 56 BC, Julius Caesar went on to conquer the area known as Brittany.

Throughout the third century, fortified walls were built around the town to protect it from ‘barbaric tribes’.

Between 1341 and 1364 wars of succession were fought between two families claiming the title Duke of Brittany, which was eventually won by Jean IV.

The union with France

Anne de Bretagne was the last duchess of Brittany, dying in 1514. The demise of Brittany was sealed when her daughter, Claude, married Francois d’Angouleme, the future king of France.

In 1532 Francois 1st stayed in Vannes and negotiated the Treaty of Vannes proclaiming the ‘perpetual union of the Country and Duchy of Brittany with the Kingdom and Crown of France’.

Although Brittany was still permitted to control taxes and maintain its own army, in practice its destiny lay in French hands. The title Duke of Brittany became obsolete, the region’s assets were stripped and its autonomy eroded.

Today, many Bretons today do not ‘officially’ recognise Brittany as part of France and would far prefer to return to self-rule.

Picture post cards of Vannes

The St Vincent town gate which faces the marina
*click to enlarge*

Castle De L'Hermine which housed the Brittany Parliament — Castle De L’Hermine which housed the Brittany Parliament
*click to enlarge*

The glorious gardens of the Castle De L'Hermine — The glorious gardens of the Castle De L’Hermine
*click to enlarge*

The Captain of the Guard's residence — The Captain of the Guard’s residence
*click to enlarge*

The Parliament's Wash Houses — The Parliament’s Wash Houses
*click to enlarge*

You just feel these buildings are tipping over
*click to enlarge*

Party creations from a sweet shop called Glup's — Party creations from a sweet shop called Glup’s
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The woodwork structure is beautiful — The woodwork structure is just beautiful
*click to enlarge*

Gorgeous ancient buildings abound in the walled town
*click to enlarge*

Alleys abound, with overhanging buildings — So many alley-ways with overhanging buildings
*click to enlarge*

Piers and Lin
from the Saloon of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.

Cruising

Leg 7 – Port Haliguen to Vannes – 2 July 2013

4 July 2013 Piers du Pré Leave a comment

Many colourful trawlers fish the Baie de Quiberon with seagulls hitching rides waiting from breakfast
*click to enlarge*

Our next port of call, the walled town of Vannes, is at the top of the beautiful Golfe du Morbihan. The Breton word Morbihan means Little Sea, an apt description given it covers over 100 square kilometres (approx. 12,000 hectares), with more than 40 islands, the largest of which is the Île aux Moines with its 7km coastline.

The inland sea of the Golfe du Morbihan is separated from the Atlantic by a narrow strait through which 400 million cubic metres of salt water pour at each high tide.

The nav plan

The pinch points start at the narrow strait entrance to the Golfe where tidal flows create currents of over 4kts. These become more pronounced as you pick your way through the islands towards Vannes, in one place exceeding 9kts. Bear in mind Play d’eau cruises at 8kts so we could easily find ourselves going backwards!

The 'Sandbanks of Poole' equivalent to the Golfe du Morbihan — The ‘Sandbanks of Poole’ equivalent to the Golfe du Morbihan
*click to enlarge*

We planned to leave Port Haliguen so we’d arrive at Port Navalo, the entrance to the Golfe, at its high tide to be carried on its peak to Vannes. In practice, it gave us an unexpected additional 2kts all the way.

The Golfe is a favourite yachting area for thousands of boats. Couple this with fast Vedettes ferrying tourists, and it becomes a challenge to play boats against Vedettes against tides against the shallow sea!

Arriving

Access to Vannes is through a swing bridge which only opens at specific times. For us, this meant being at the bridge at 1530.

After three exiting yachts we went through and up a short canal to Vannes to berth.

Tecky details

The Vedettes don't take prisoners. Travelling fast and passing close leaving large wakes — The Vedettes don’t take prisoners. Travelling fast, they pass close and make large wakes
*click to enlarge*

1242hrs FST – Departed Port Haliguen
1542hrs FST – Arrived Vannes
Planned distance – 19.3nm
Longest leg – 9.8nm of pilotage in the Golfe
Tech problems – nil

Piers and Lin
from the Pilot House of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.

Cruising

Leg 6 – Port La Foret to Port Haliguen – 1 July 2013

3 July 2013 Piers du Pré 1 Comment

A cold, grey sky greeted us as we emerged from our cabin and raised the blinds in the saloon to view the outside world. Whilst Lin went to fetch fresh croissants (a pink job) I busied myself with engine and nav checks (a blue job).

Lin at the helm, not always doing a pink job
*click to enlarge*

Leaving Port La Forêt

Casting off at 0830, we motored gently from the sleepy marina along the narrow half mile channel to the open sea where we began dodging the many poorly marked lobster pots that seem to litter the Brittany coast.

Lin brought the La Foret Fouesnant croissants and fresh coffee to the pilot house for breakfast and we were soon set up for the six hour passage to Port Haliguen, a small marina and fishing port on the south east side of Presqu’ile de Quiberon some fifty miles to the south west.

The nav plan

There are no real pinch points along the route today, but there’s one part worth mentioning.

Towards the end of our journey we pass to the south of Presqu’ile de Quiberon where we need to thread our way through the many reefs and islands which extend fourteen miles to the south west.

Threading our way through the reefs, we passed within 50m of this outcrop
*click to enlarge*

The track we take through this area will depend on the sea state at the time and how comfy we feel about cutting corners and threading our way thought the rocks!

Arriving

Just as we rounded Presqu’ile, the sun came out in her full glory and turned a grey day into a great day.

Given the sea state was completely calm, we chose the shortest of short cuts through the reefs where the tide, at times was running at 4 knots against us.

The Harbour Master was waiting for us in his RIB and led us to our berth. Would you believe, it had one of those pesky water connectors we’d first encountered at Camaret. The receptionist at the Capitainerie couldn’t have been more helpful. In answer to our first question she responded, ‘Oui, of course there’s Wi-Fi and here’s the code.’

This is the adaptor required for the new style water outlets being installed in many French marinas
*click to enlarge*

In answer to our second question, she replied, ‘The Chandlery is closed and there’s nowhere else to get the adaptor. But wait a moment.’ Picking up her radio she called another of the marina staff and spoke in rapid fire French. All I understood was ‘Play d’eau‘.

As we returned to Play d’eau someone asked, ‘Monsieur Play d’eau?’. ‘Oui’. ‘The Capitainerie asked me to give you this adaptor, with our compliments’.

So now we are the proud owners of the elusive adaptor!

Tecky details

0830hrs FST – Departed Port La Forêt
1453hrs FST – Port Haliguen
Planned distance – 51.1nm
Longest leg – 38.1nm, Pointe de Trévignon to Basse du Chanel SCM
Tech problems – a very slight oil leak from the aft of the stbd motor. Needs investigation
Note: that the previous leg’s nav kit issues were all resolved with a re-boot. The question remains, what happened?

Piers and Lin
from the Pilot House of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.

Cruising

Jazz on the Bandstand & ‘au revoir Port La Forêt’

3 July 2013 Piers du Pré Leave a comment

A hot sun in a clear blue sky with a cool breeze and a sea mist rolling up the estuary, set the scene for the Festival of Jazz at the bandstand on the last day of our extended visit to Port La Forêt.

The six jazz musicians on the bandstand at Port La Foret — The six jazz musicians of the Cornouaille Jazz Band on the bandstand at Port La Forêt
*click to enlarge*

…and they played

With the crowd ready and waiting, the Cornouaille Jazz Band’s six musicians and vocalist assembled their various amplifiers and instruments and put their heart and soul into playing blues, trad, and Chocolat ‘River Rat’ syncopations, using their array of saxophones, trumpet, clarinet, banjo, guitar, bass guitar, drums, and the occasional voice.

After two hours of fun the crowd didn’t want them to stop. ‘Encore, encore!’

We loved it.

So pleased we stayed that extra time at Port La Forêt.

Au revoir Port La Forêt

We’ve had a ball here.

Glorious walks, a beautiful local village, an outrageous Creperie, excellent quaffable cider, fresh croissants and Petit Moulé loaves from a Boulongerie that cares for perfection, swooping terns ducking and diving to snatch unwary fish for supper and to top it all off, Jazz on the Bandstand with the Cornouaille Jazz Band.

Au revoir Port la Forêt. À la prochaine.

Piers and Lin
from the Saloon of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.