Play d’eau follows the bright star… (photo courtesy Kim Hollamby) click to enlarge
Happy Christmas, everyone!
May we immediately assure everyone that our radio silence for the last two years has not been because we’ve finally navigated to the great marina in the sky.
No. With considerable quantities of fuel left in life’s tanks, we’ve loved many months in the magnificent country of South Africa, spent time with family and dear friends, cruised the west coast of France (again), remedied some difficult faults on Play d’eau, and, and, and….
I mean, they say that when you retire you become more busy than ever and we can attest this to be absolutely true.
Now it’s Christmas 2017
So after such a long period of silence, the keys of my new laptop have started clattering away as I renew friendship with our website. Hence, we take this opportunity to trust you will all have a magnificent Christmas and an exciting New Year.
The Reason for the Season
As we know, the reason for the season is Jesus. Hallelujah indeed!
2018
Whilst we contemplate 2018 and make plans, one of our New Year’s resolutions is to keep the website up to date. So we thank you for your patience and ask you to keep a listening watch on this channel.
On a personal note
Whilst thinking of the reason for the season, Lin and I especially thank Him for the recent miraculous healing of a dear friend of ours. And we mean miraculous. Reality is reality.
Happy Christmas!
Piers
from the Pilot House of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
What an adventure. All two and half months of it. What a treat – but then we are retired!
In a nutshell
We drove hundreds of kilometres across magnificent mountain ranges, along extensive plateaus, visited a crane sanctuary, saw four of the Big 5 in a private game reserve, sampled some of South Africa’s finest food and wines, met our new family members again and made so many friends. Oh, and I had an infected wisdom tooth pulled out.
The term ‘the Big 5’ refers to the five most dangerous African animals to hunt. The African elephant, African lion, African buffalo, African Leopard, and the rhinocerous. We saw all except for the leopard.
Memories of the ‘Jungle Book’ flooded back as we journeyed through Limpopo, Mpumalanga, Kwa-Zulu Natal, Mthatha, and saw signs for Lesotho and Swaziland. Did we meet Shere Khan and Mowgli? Sadly, no.
We witnessed the stake out, the chase, and the munching click to enlarge
Our South African adventure was an overload of wonderment, beauty, friendship, sheer bliss and memories.
Drakensberg mountains
The dramatic Drakensberg mountains enclose the central Southern African plateau, stretching over 700 miles and reaching heavenwards to over 11,400 feet into deep blue skies. We’ll let the photographs speak for themselves.
Lichens Pass
Our return journey from Johannesburg to Durban took us through two villages called Egypt and Bethlehem before driving along the Lichens Pass. Majestic and breath taking are poor words with which to describe the visions laid before us.
One deep sadness
Trinity is taken out for a flight click to enlarge
On safari, the wildlife was spectacular but declining at an alarming rate. Poaching, coupled with a strong tourist trade paying high money stakes to hunt and kill for pleasure, are diminishing the animal kingdom at an alarming rate. For some animals, it’s already beyond a sustainable level.
The facts on poaching alone speak for themselves. In the last three years alone, 100,000 elephants have been slaughtered for their ivory whilst the desire for rhino horn from far east countries means the Rhino will be extinct by 2020; the birth rate is far, far lower than the slaughter rate.
Our human race has so much to answer for.
Return to Guernsey
Having spent so much time in South Africa we found it really hard to leave. We’d met so many lovely people, seen so many wonders and loved every moment. Yes, it was hard to leave.
Mr Weaver uses strips of reed to build his nest click to enlarge
We landed late in the evening at Guernsey’s ‘International Airport’. Stepping out into the rain, we asked the taxi driver to take us the long way back to the bungalow we’ve been lent whilst Play d’eau is being repaired.
We were soon being driven along the coast road. A strong onshore wind was hurling the seas against the rocks causing the spray to detonate in all directions. Very different from the hot South African summer we’d left behind. The smell of the sea, the sight of the spray. Yes, it’s good to be back, back home.
Photo album
From nearly 3,000 photos we’ve picked 182 in a slideshow for you. Colonial style hotels, mountain passes, game reserves and drives, lion kills, exotic animals – the list goes on.
Image captions appear below the thumbnails. Arrows on the left and right of the main images allow you to change photos manually and you can pause and play by the icon in the centre of the image.
So let the photo album tell our story. We hope you like it.
Piers and Lin
waiting for the return of our Play d’eau
Fleming 55
We left beautiful Beaucette Marina soon after midday click to enlarge1 September 2014. A decision had been made.
Having prepared our Fleming 55, Play d’eau, for the journey, Kim and I left sunny Beaucette soon after midday delivering a long and triumphant blast of the Kahlenbergs echoing around the marina’s quarry walls, and set sail (set motor?) for the journey. Not to South Africa, but Southampton via Alderney where we’d have a few hours break for supper.
Casting off from Buoy 20 in Braye Harbour, we travelled throughout a moonless night in a rather emotional sea and arrived in a flat calm Solent just as the sun rose, casting her fire orange hue over the water.
Having completed the handover to GRP Boat Repairs Ltd at Shamrock Quay, I caught the 1440 Blue Islands flight back to Guernsey and was tucked up and asleep by 8pm.
Why Southampton?
The sun rises over Cowes in the Solent click to enlargeWell, Play d’eau is in need of extensive repair work which will be carried out by UK specialists. Whilst there, Lin and I will take the opportunity to visit South Africa for the two months Play d’eau will be under cover in a heated shed.
A great friend of ours, Kim Hollamby, had flown to Guernsey to accompany me to Southampton. Lin was staying behind to make final preparations for our extended South African adventure.
Why South Africa?
Readers will remember that our youngest son, Toby, married his fiancé Amy in April this year in the Tala Private Game Reserve just outside Durban. We spent a month sightseeing this beautiful country and meeting members of our new extended family. We agreed that this, our first time in South Africa, would not be the last.
Why two months?
The chart plotter shows exactly where we are click to enlargeSimple. The work needed on Play d’eau will take two months, and since she is our home we have taken the opportunity to return to beautiful South Africa.
There’s so much to explore. Magnificent mountain ranges, wines, exotic game reserves, wines, family to meet, wines, journeys to be made, and have I mentioned the fine luscious South African wines?
What’s up with Play d’eau?
Good question. The main problem is hundreds of blisters on many of the surfaces above the waterline. Above the waterline? Yes, above the waterline.
Apparently, when she was built a water-attractive filler was used in some places under the gel coat rather than an epoxy water-repellent filler. Hence, any water resting on surfaces was ‘sucked’ through the gel coat, into the filler, causing blistering, looking just like a bad rash of teenage acne. Given her debut was at the 2002 Southampton Boat Show, she’ll be thirteen in a year’s time, so teenage acne isn’t a bad metaphor.
The Blisters
The hundreds of blisters look like a teenager’s bad rash of acne click to enlargeSo, Play d’eau will be in a heated tent, with the blister correction work being carried out by a Fleming recommended facility. Work will be monitored by a marine surveyor and finally signed off as complete and corrected.
Other work will include blasting the hull back to the original epoxy coating, applying additional epoxy, re-antifouling, reseating caprails, remaking any loose caulking in the teak decking, repairing any ‘dinks’ in the internal wooden flooring, certifying the fire protection systems, replacing a gearbox oil seal and servicing the Glendenning engine synchroniser.
And that will all take two months. But at least she’ll be ready for next year’s cruising with not a hint of acne.
Piers and Lin
from a friend’s bungalow near Cobo Play d’eau
Fleming 55
Well, we’re homeward bound. After a magnificent and glorious three weeks in South Africa, we have travelled from Cape Town to Durban to Amsterdam and will shortly leave for Guernsey.
Cape Town
After taking afternoon tea at Cape Town’s Mount Nelson Hotel (as a chap and chapess do), we flew to Durban and stayed at the Granny Mouse Country Lodge, some 90 minutes west of the city, for one night before catching an Emirates flight to Amsterdam.
Today, we take a Blue Islands flight back to Guernsey (via the ‘other island’) to be reunited with Play d’eau. In a strange way we know it’s time to go home, yet our hearts have been certainly captured by South Africa.
As Amy’s brother, Kevin, had said to us, ‘South Africa gets in your blood’.
How right he was.
Some last pics
Here are some last pics from the many we took.
Our room at the Tala Private Game Reserve KwaZulu-Natal click to enlarge
Our 12m long room at the African Pride, Melrose Arch, J’burg, with its green and red lighting click to enlarge
The Queen Victoria Hotel was close to the waterfront which buzzed with life click to enlarge
These guys were great with their improvisation and rhythms click to enlarge
“The wheel on the front goes round and round’ click to enlarge
Traditional skills are still being used click to enlarge
The port and marina were so busy click to enlarge
Table Mountain was wearing its table cloth click to enlarge
The cloud disappeared… click to enlarge
…and window cleaners were suspended by ropes click to enlarge
Sandwiches, cakes, savouries, scones, creams, jams, breads and 'nibbles' click to enlarge
We indulged in afternoon tea at The Mount Nelson click to enlarge
Piers’ favourite click to enlarge
We stayed at the Granny Mouse Country Lodge for our last night in SA click to enlarge
Our room had a wood burning stove – great because it dropped to -3C overnight click to enlarge
Granny Mouse overlooks the valley and its river click to enlarge
The fog stayed hovering above the river click to enlarge
As the sun rose, it was -3C, frosty, and fog steamed off the river click to enlarge
A great sign by Reception click to enlarge
Water taps and corrugated iron made a novel water features click to enlarge
Nearby were the stunning 95m (310′) Howick Falls click to enlarge
Piers and Lin
Granny Mouse Country Lodge
…on temporary leave of absence from Play d’eau
Fleming 55
Although it was Autumn, there were still some magnificent flowers in full display whilst leaves and vegetation were showing their vibrant autumnal colours.
Wherever possible, we made use of sunrise and sunset light.
One big problem – we know the names of some, well two or three, but the majority leave us guessing…
Let us know your favourite
If you have a moment, please let us know your favourite pic – thank you.
Piers and Lin
Granny Mouse Country House, KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa,
…on temporary leave of absence from Play d’eau
Fleming 55
We started our drive but we soon had to keep stopping for photos click to enlargeAfter our two nights at the Rosendal Winery, the drive to Altes Landhaus (Schoemanschoek, Oudtshoorn) was greater in distance and greater in beauty if the latter was at all possible.
The enormity of the endless, dry, arid mountain ranges, the unusual variety of colours, the ostriches, baboons and other animals we couldn’t identify, was captivating.
Altes Landhaus
We were staying in another boutique hotel, the Altes Landhaus, a large Victorian colonial style farmer’s ranch, beautifully restored and with gardens full of intense colours.
Everywhere in this ranch was huge including our room. I say room yet it was really three rooms. The bedroom, lounge and bathroom were all of equal size.
A nice touch was a decanter of sherry resting on a side table to refresh us.
Peace
The browny-red colours reminded us of Devon soil click to enlargeBoth Rosendal and Altes have been so peaceful. It’s Autumn so guests are few; both hotels are in the middle of nowhere so there’s no noise apart from crickets, toads, tree frogs, endless bird song much of which is heard on David Attenborough’s documentaries, and the dinner gong.
For the next two nights we have a rest from fine dining and calories and plan the next stage of our journey – to Plettenberg Bay before setting course for Toby and Amy’s wedding in the Tala Private Game Reserve.
We’re so excited. We want to press the time accelerator.
Piers and Lin
Altes Landhaus
…on temporary leave of absence from Play d’eau
Fleming 55
Beaucette Marina
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
Different rock formations everywhere click to enlarge
The ranges rolled on for miles into the distance click to enlarge
So hot, so dry, yet animals thrive here click to enlarge
By now we are nearing our destination click to enlarge
We arrive at Altes Landhaus click to enlarge
Bougainvillea lined the 100m driveway click to enlarge
Alternating red and white, a wall of colour was created click to enlarge
Langer township’s African Gospel Church click to enalrgeWe had no idea how much today’s tour of a township, District 6 and Robben Island, was going to affect us.
Township
Our guide warned us that we may find this tour somewhat gruelling. He was right. So very right.
Langer is a township, a mass of cheap one and two story concrete buildings where blacks were settled when being displaced from land which whites claimed for themselves.
Typically, a two small room building is now occupied by six people. One room for sleeping, the other serving as a kitchen and day room. Communal toilets serve many buildings. Running water and electricity is in many cases, a bonus.
We felt uncomfortable. Here was utter poverty and in their eyes we were white rich tourists looking at them and their environment. But we were told again and again not to feel bad since a proportion of the tour fees went to help the township.Pottery is taught and the results are sold click to enlargeOn the plus side, projects were underway where manual skills are taught and developed, and schools have sprung up. In one of them, 30 gorgeous, excitable three year olds sang to us. Their happy innocent, eager eyes and untainted souls made us wonder where they’d be in years to come. Lin and I wept.
We sang ‘The wheels on the bus go round and round’ to them as they squealed with delight.
There are no state hand-outs. The people of UK have no concept of poverty or the poverty line.
District 6
Moving to District 6 we first visited the museum where an ex-prisoner, originally incarcerated and beaten for spreading anti-government propaganda, showed us around, explaining what happened not only to the area, but to his family and hundreds of others.The sand paintings were really beautiful click to enlargePhotographs and newspaper articles detailed the devastation of what happened.
Robben Island
By now, our minds were emotionally disoriented. I can’t think of a better term. Yet the hour and a half boat ride to Robben Island did nothing to prepare us for the next stage of our tour.
Another black ex-prisoner who’d also been beaten and tortured and held in the same prison block as Nelson Mandela, greeted us. Apparently, blacks could be imprisoned and kept without trial for as long as the authorities wanted. No time limits applied.
Dog kennels were twice the size of prison cells.
Although we were encouraged to take photographs of the prison and especially the tiny cell where Mandela was held, I couldn’t. I felt that if I did, I’d somehow be trivialising something of untold value that should be held just as it was and not consigned to digital format.
Revenge or Reconciliation?
Part of a giraffe sand painting click to enlargeThe language we kept hearing from those who suffered for so many years was common. ‘Reconciliation, not retribution or revenge, only reconciliation.’
What a great and inspired leader Nelson Mandela was. Without him, one dreads to imagine the blood bath that would have undoubtedly happened.
Who can possibly follow in his footsteps?
Leaving Robben Island
Leaving the small Robben Island harbour, we were astounded by the thousands of cormorants that lined the breakwater.
Maybe one cormorant for each prisoner that perished here, I wondered.
Piers and LinThousands of cormorants lined Robben Island’s breakwater. One per prisoner? click to enlargeMount Nelson Hotel
…on temporary leave of absence fromPlay d’eau
Fleming 55
Beaucette Marina
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
The Mount Nelson Hotel, Cape Town with Table Mountain behind click to enlargeWe arrived at the start of our South African extravaganza at this magnificent old colonial-style hotel, the Mount Nelson, late last Sunday evening after an unexpectedly prolonged journey.
The Mount Nelson is affectionately know as ‘The Pink Lady’ or ‘Nellie’.
The last three days
We’ve packed so much into the last three days. The weather has been unexpectedly perfect with temperatures in the high twenties, cloudless skies and a gentle cooling breeze.
Table Mountain, Cape Point, the Cape of Good Hope, Botanical gardens, District 6 and Robben Island have taken every moment. Robben Island has left us emotionally exhausted.
To make you smile…
Yesterday, we were having an early breakfast on the terrace when the sun poked her nose through the palm trees beyond the infinity pool at the end of the beautiful green lawn.
With our table laden with glorious tropical fruits, the aromas of freshly watered garden mixed with good strong coffee, were intoxicating.
Then the sun went out. It was a street lamp.
Piers and Lin
Mount Nelson Hotel
…on temporary leave of absence from Play d’eau
Fleming 55
Beaucette Marina
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
These were the voyages of Piers and Lin du Pré aboard their Fleming 55
