Play d’eau catches the early morning sun at Port Louis click to enlargeThis was a perfect journey. So gentle, so beautiful.
Why Sainte Marine when we had planned for one our favourite marinas, Port La Fôret? Vendée Globe racing yachts had filled the marina leaving no room to spare for Play d’eau, but Sainte Marine opened their arms to us.
The nav plan
Todays’ cruise had no pinch points. The wind would be from the N and NE and we’d be fully protected from it by the land.
The weather
A good forecast became reality. No complaints.
The journey
So we left Port Louis in warm, full sunshine with clear skies above and the N’ly wind behind us. We reversed from our mooring between the pontoon and the trawlers, turned to starboard and headed into the calm water of Lorient harbour.Dawn was still breaking as we reversed between the pontoon and the trawlers click to enlargeThe journey was uneventful apart from one trawler returning to its home port and one small fishing boat. We suspect neither had seen us, being too intent on counting their catches. Being once bitten twice shy, both had five blasts and altered course immediately – Kahlenbergs work really well!
Arriving
Arrival was simplicity itself. A call on Canal Neuf giving a five minute warning and one of the Capitainerie’s dory’s was by our side to show us to our mooring. So helpful.
Looking around, we’d forgotten the area is so pretty and delightful. Sainte Marine is on the west side of the river Odet, Benodet on the east side.
Motor Cruiser Tranquil Light
Would you believe, a boat we’d first met at Sainte Marina three years ago, and which had seen us seen in Port Haliguen was moored in front of us.Martin and Joyce and their Prestige 46 Tranquil Light click to enlargeMartin and Joyce of Tranquil Light, a Jenneau Prestige 46, had been cruising the west coast of France since May and are only now on their way home.
Martin brewed a luscious Cappuccino and Joyce presented some great mini-macaroons. We know who to visit for elevenses, afternoon tea, after dinner, hmmm – anytime….
The tecky details
Departed Port Louis – 0931
Arrived Sainte Marine – 1511
Time on passage – 5hr 40min
Total planned distance – 35.0nm
Longest leg – 17.0nm from Les Trois Pierres to Corn-Vas WCM
Tides: Midway twixt Springs to Neaps
Tech issues – nil
Incidents – nil
Navigational info: The river Odet flows at 4kts at springs which catches so many boaters unaware when mooring.
Piers and Lin
From the Nav Table of Play d’eau
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form. The trawler that altered course 70 degrees to avoid us. Kahlenbergs work brilliantly click to enlarge
Our ‘inaccessible by land’ river pontoon at La Roche Bernard. The only other habited boat moored alongside us click to enlargeWe’d had a brilliant six days at La Roche Bernard, not the least because we met Chris and Sue of Yacht Aquitaine again, whom we’d first met in Vannes.
The forecast was good but reality was to prove very different for our journey to Lorient.
En route to Arzal lock
0530 and the alarm woke us from a deep sleep. As I struggled to prise my eyes open I was thinking of good reasons not to go, but a strong cup of coffee from Lin soon put paid to the ideas.
Stepping out of the saloon to sniff the weather, total cloud cover drew blinds on any light from the night sky; so different from the previous night when clear sky allowed a huge full moon and countless stars to light the valley as clear as daylight. A NW F2 breeze ruffled wavelets in the river. The air felt damp. Silence was being broken as terns woke and began chirruping the first calls of the morning.Before dawn broke, the FLIR thermal image showed three yachts on mooring buoys and the Roche of La Roche Bernard behind them click to enlargeThe plan was to leave La Roche Bernard at 0700, head downstream to Arzal and take their first lock of the day at 0800.
Our 200m river pontoon was home to only one other inhabited boat which had chosen to be immediately next door to us. Wanting to be quiet we waited until 0640 to crane the dinghy onto the saloon roof. In the remnants of the night’s cloak the crane’s motor screamed as it lifted ‘T/T Play d’eau’ at which point the yacht’s two man crew popped out of the cabin, thanked us for the alarm call and made ready to cast off for the same lock as ourselves.
The nav plan
Today there were no pinch points to worry about and the plan was straight forward. As long as the weather played its part, or more accurately, as long as the forecasters were on our side, there’d be no problems at all.
The weather
The forecasts and synoptic charts showed the wind being N/NW F4 becoming N/NE F4/5 as the fronts passed.
This would be perfect and coincide with our plan to traverse the Teignouse channel through the reef at the base of the Quiberon peninsula, separating the Baie de Quiberon from the Atlantic Ocean.At the Arzal sluice barrier the Cormorants were waiting for breakfast click to enlargeGiven we’d be on a 1kt falling tide (helping us along), the NE’ly meant the wind wouldn’t be against us. If it had been it would have created a classic wind against tide scenario, building waves and swell, made worse as the sea funnelled through the channel over the reef.
The journey
As dawn’s light began to penetrate the clouds, we cast off, bid La Roche Bernard farewell and meandered gently downriver to Arzal’s Lock where we waited only ten minutes before it opened and allowed us to enter.
About an hour after leaving the lock and wending our way to the sea, it seemed the wind was probably a notch stronger than forecast but nothing worth being concerned about in the least.
Three and a half hours later as we neared the Quiberon peninsula, Lin and I had been urging the wind to be as forecast but it stubbornly refused to budge. As if to dig its heels in and show just how belligerent it could be, it backed to W’ly and increased to top end F5 and edged into F6.Waiting for the lock gates to open to let us out to the tidal part of La Vilaine river click to enlargeThis created a 1½ mile stretch of somewhat challengingly large and steep waves over the reef giving Lin and I the dubious pleasure of one moment seeing the sky, the next the ocean floor, then the sky again and the ocean floor again, as Play d’eau rode the bronco for the next fifteen minutes.
Once through the reef and heading NW to Lorient, the sea calmed to a gentle Atlantic swell and we could breathe again.
A blessing
Nearing Lorient and some three miles east of Île de Groix, we espied a flock of cormorants swimming on the water, which, on closer inspection was a small school of dolphins, playing and jumping! How brilliant was that?
Our unpleasant memories of the Teignouse channel roller-coaster just evaporated.
Arriving
Halfway to Lorient, the sea behind us was agitated and the remnants of a front hung over a lone yacht click to enlarge
The entrance to Lorient is a really narrow 135m wide from zero contour to zero contour. Since it was absolute low tide it was even less. Traffic was reasonably dense in both directions with many yachts and small fishing craft. To keep ‘in the flow’ Play d’eau was at idle and 5 knots. Sensibly, sail boats were pulling their sails down before entering the channel and running in under power.
There had to be one…
But there had to one, didn’t there, who insisted on entering the channel under sail alone. Not a problem in itself, but a potential problem. He’d been overtaking other boats and was now some 75m on my port side. All was well until the high walls of the ramparts to our starboard took his wind whereupon he immediately turned straight for me.
Nearing the Lorient entrance we kept to starboard ready to take the next channel to Port Louis I pulled all power off hoping he’d pass in front. Turning to starboard wasn’t an option; I was already as far to starboard as possible ready to turn into the next channel for Port Louis marina. click to enlargeTurning to port would have hit him. Engaging reverse power would have taken far too long to effect Play d’eau’s 35 tonnes of inertia, as would increasing forward power to accelerate. Even with fresh wind in his sails he kept on coming straight for me. Coming into ear shot he shouted ‘Give way! Sail!’.
What could I do? Evaporate? Almost hitting us and just before going about, he shouted, ‘You should plan and anticipate. We have sail.’
I felt like bellowing ‘9b’ (sail doesn’t have right of way in a narrow channel where a craft is restricted in its ability to manoeuvre) but was so stunned at his arrogance, I didn’t. It should have been he who planned and anticipated, not me. Where’s the Gattling gun when you most need it?
However, in complete contrast, a delightful and welcoming girl from the Capitainerie came out in a dory to greet us and shepherd us to our berth. Just as earlier with the dolphins, it’s so good that a blessing can ameliorate a growl-inducing event.
Peace descended, and we forgave the forecasters.Port Louis the next morning. Peace reigned as dawn broke click to enlarge
The tecky details
Departed La Roche Bernard – 0710
Arrived Arzal lock – 0754
Departed Arzal lock – 0824
Arrived Port Louis – 1534
Time on passage – 8hr 24min
Total planned distance – 55.3nm
Longest leg – 17.8nm from Basse des Mats to NE Teignouse SHM
Tides – almost midway from Springs to Neaps
Tech issues – nil
Incidents – ‘There had to be one…’
Piers and Lin
From the Nav Table of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
This pigeon rested on Play d’eau for ten hours gathering its strength before flying off click to enlargeHi Everyone.
We are about to head for the Brest peninsula to take advantage of the neap tides. This will involve us travelling from La Roche Bernard via Port Louis (Lorient), Port La Foret, Camaret and L’Aber Wrac’h, in the next few days.
Of course, if the weather and sea state prevent this happening, we’ll have plenty of time to update the site.
Hence, if there are no posts please forgive us. There’re many sea miles to cover with little time off, leaving even less time for the fun of updating the website.
However, as soon as we can, we will resume normal service.
Piers and Lin
From the Saloon of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
When this year began we had no idea some of the ‘firsts’ that would happen.Lin and our four boys. They won’t tell us the joke they’re sharing…. click to enlargeIn October 2012 we spent a week in Guernsey making sure we knew the practical details surrounding our move to the island in March 2013 where we’d live on Play d’eau in the privately owned Beaucette Marina.
The first first – Furniture
We could store all our furniture in Guernsey but would it fit when we bought a house? Instead, the decision was made (not easy) to keep only those pieces that were family ‘heirlooms’ or had ‘special reasons’. The rest could either be sold or given to our sons. Their choices and requests were mostly able to be met and thankfully there was no falling out over who had what!
So, Jan 22 2013 saw most of our furniture being collected to be sold at auction. The rest was to go to long term store in Guernsey.
We slept on our mattress on the floor; we started married life that way but on a different mattress, I hasten to add! It was not as easy to get off the floor to get out of bed, age was creeping up on us. Our garden tables and chairs were used indoors and one sofa was kept for comfortable sitting.
We culled our bits and pieces into what we needed and could use on the boat now, what we would use later, and gave the rest to charity shops or sold. We became ebay masters! The remainder would go into short term storage in Guernsey where we could access them, if necessary.
I found I had squirrelled away loads of toiletries when they had been on special offer – they will keep us going until at least next year!
Second first – Houseless
We had been renting a house in Chetnole, near Yeovil, since selling Orchard Gate in Nov 2011. Now we had to vacate and clean the rental property so moved into a holiday let at the other end of the village for a week. We left this on 9 March 2013.
Third first – the Fox
I took the first car (our little Fox) to Guernsey at the beginning of March 2013, taking the fast ferry from Poole and back later that day for Piers to collect me.
Fourth first – Snow
We ‘first’ departed the UK on 9 March 2013. Piers had to go to USA so he flew back the next day leaving me to hold the fort. The following day saw the island assailed by a blizzard. The wind was gale force north-east and the snow was horizontal. It was exciting yet daunting. Guernsey had not had such bad weather for over 50 years and the airport was closed for 2½ days.
Fifth first – Cessation
We are no longer employed. Piers had started Onaphone in 1979 making his first sale the next year. Later, the company name changed to du Pré plc. It was really strange being cessated by our own company! Our last day of employment was 21 March 2013.
Sixth first – Guernsey
It was 22 March 2013 and finally we arrived in Guernsey to live on the boat. The longest time we had holidayed on her in one stretch was 10 weeks in 2010. Now to live on her with our belongings and in the winter as well! Guernsey self-store has been brilliant for those things of which we have no immediate need.
Seventh first – A Fiancée
Toby, our youngest son, proposed to and was accepted by his girlfriend Amy. He did ask Mark, Amy’s dad, for permission, beforehand. They will marry in South Africa next April.
Eighth first – Piers was officially old
Piers was 65! We had a huge gathering of all the family in May – the weather was very good to us and brilliant memories will be cherished.
Ninth first – Exploration
We have been away exploring since June 18 and ventured further south than ever before. We reached Rochefort which is up the river Charente (south of La Rochelle) and a lovely place to visit. From there, we’ve started the return back north, visiting places we missed on the way down.
Tenth first – Another Fiancée
Adam, our third son, proposed to, and was accepted by Perdita. Wow, two future daughters-in-law in 4 months. So exciting for us all. How come this all happens when we are not in the UK?
We still have another 4 months of this year. How many more ‘firsts’ are there waiting for us?
Lin
From the Saloon of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
The falling spring tide would bring today’s special challenges. The gorgeous 23m yacht Copihue left Pornic half an hour before us click to enlarge
La Vilaine River
La Roche Bernard is some 10nm up the beautiful La Vilaine river. Just beyond midway is the Arzal lock and the 1400 écluse would be perfect – if the planning allowed it.
The nav plan
The first challenge was the time to leave Pornic before the spring tide had fallen to a level where the silted marina approach channel would be too shallow for our safe exit to the Baie de Bourgneuf.
The second was the mouth of La Vilaine which has sand bar 2nm long at its ‘embouchure’ reducing depth only 0.5m above chart datum.
Planning showed that if we left Pornic as the latest safe time and kept our speed to 7kts (using one engine only to save servicing time) we’d arrive at the mouth to La Vilaine as the tide was on the rise giving us an extra 1.5m above chart datum. Adding that to the chart’s 0.5m would give 2m. Since Play d’eau’s draft is 1.52m, she’d have 48cms under her keel.We motored through a shoal (a wobble?) of these huge 2′ diameter jelly fish click to enlargeWell, that was the theory which we knew would be subject to many factors such as additional silting, atmospheric pressure, wind effect and so on, but we could test this as we approached the mouth by monitoring chart soundings against the depth sounder. Dead slow at this point just in case.
The weather
A NE F3, clear skies and excellent visibility greeted us when we woke at 0630. Even if the wind had been much stronger it wouldn’t have mattered since the land would be there to protect us.
Preparation included Lin going to the Capitainerie to use their wi-fi (wee-fee) to download emails only to find the Capitainerie wasn’t open but the laundry was. Perching the laptop on the washing machine – ‘le wee-fee marshed’ as they say in French.
The journey
Lin took Play d’eau off her berth at our ETD of 0754 and manoeuvred her towards the entrance. A sharp turn to starboard took us into the approach channel, the depth was just right, and we were into the Baie de Bourgneuf.Approaching Arzal lock, about half way from the sea to La Roche Bernard click to enlargeTravelling close to the Jade Coast our journey took us past the Pointe de St Caldas and into the Grande Rade de La Loire.
Crossing the approach channel to St Nazaire Lin was reminded of her Dad’s involvement on the raid on the lock gates of the Normandie dry dock in WW2. He was on the hunter destroyer, HMS Atherstone, and his account of the Atherstone’s involvement differs significantly from that in the text books….he lived to tell the tale and have five children, one of which, of course, was Lin.
From Point du Croisic with its shoal of jelly fish (or is it a ‘wobble’?) to Piriac-sur-Mer, we passed the small bird sanctuary and mussel farms of Île Dumet to port before heading for the mouth of La Vilaine.
The whole journey was so, so pretty.
’Bonjour La Vilaine’
At her shallowest point, La Vilaine’s sand bar gave us 1m clearance below Play d’eau’s keel. We thanked her.We entered the Arzal lock stopping before the lifting bridge took our mast off! click to enlargeLa Vilaine is a beautiful river. Leaving the mussel farms behind and the dark green tree lined banks ahead, we wove our way towards the lock at Arzal.
Arzal Lock
The timing worked. The lock was open as we approached and the lights were green. We entered, stopping before the road bridge which spanned the lock. We looped the hanging chains with our warps and a few minutes later we began the 2m rise.
Given Play d’eau’s air draft, the lifting bridge was raised and we exited.
Arriving
The next 4nm to La Roche Bernard reminded us of the beauty of La Sein when we cruised to Paris in Play d’eau in 2004. For sake of repeating ourselves, the river’s beauty has to be seen to be believed. The lifting bridge had to be raised before we were able to exit the lock click to enlargeGiven our length we had to moor on the visitor’s pontoon which itself is moored in the river. Access to the shore is by a small dory and pulling a rope on a pulley system. The 200m journey takes for ever, is hugely exhausting but the macho in a chap prevents fatigue from showing.
The tecky details
Departed Pornic – 0754
Arrived Arzal lock – 1355
Departed Arzal lock – 1415
Arrived La Roche Bernard – 1448
Time on passage – 6hr 54min
Total planned distance – 45.8nm
Tides: Spring
Longest leg – 11.9nm from SE Lambarde SCM to Pointe du Croisic
Tech issues – nil
Incidents – nil
Navigational info: La Vilaine carries considerable amounts of silt, mainly mud. The marker buoys are moved often to reflect this, and the chart bears no relation to reality.
Piers and Lin
From the Nav Table of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.La Vilaine river between Arzal and La Roche Bernard click to enlarge
La Vilaine river between Arzal and La Roche Bernard click to enlargeLa Vilaine river between Arzal and La Roche Bernard click to enlargeVedettes ply La Vilaine click to enlargeThere are some lovely houses on La Vilaine click to enlargeThe dory links the pontoon with the shore. You pull on the rope and pull yourself along – exhausting! click to enlarge
A lovely calm sea for the cruise to Pornic click to enlargeLooking forward to another FLIR experience, we cast off from Quai Garnier’s pontoon A ‘exterieur’ and headed into the black an hour and a half before sunrise, destination Pornic in the départment Loire Atlantique, some 60nm to the North.
Even with clear skies there was no moon. Maybe, because today’s a French public holiday, apparently something to do with Napoleon being officially recognised as a ‘good egg’, the moon had taken its own day (or night) as an Astronomic public holiday.
The nav plan
The pinch point was the latest time we could safely enter Pornic given the continuous silting it suffers in its approach channel.
I’d called the Capitainerie and Mademoiselle said she’d reserve a place for us. ‘Have you been here before?’ I was asked. ‘You must stay close to the rouge, the red channel markers, where it’s OK for you.’
We planned the north bound route to go anti-clockwise around the outside of the reefs surrounding Île de Noirmoutier rather than risk cutting through the narrow gap at its southern extremity and the mainland. Numerous published warnings advise not trying and although that to me is like a red rag to a bull, I agreed.
The route kept us some 5nm off the coast but there were large areas where the seabed rose to within the 10m depth contour. That would mean pots, lots of pots, and dozens of fishermen in their Merry Fishers hoping for a fresh catch for lunch and always somehow being directly in our way.
We weren’t to be disappointed.
The weather
With a gentle wind mainly from the E, and flat calm seas, we were completely protected by the land. The skies were clear, no moon (have I mentioned that?), and the visibility was perfect.Our new Furuno FAR2117 picks up pots so well. The 4 strong returns ahead and port were pots, the three small light yellow returns ahead were gulls, and the long blue trail pointing 030 degrees was a helicopter we tracked doing 69kts click to enlarge
The journey
The moment we passed over the 10m contour, pots were everywhere with clusters of ten being common. However, in the main they were well flagged and visible.
But deceptive. On this, our 15th passage since we left Guernsey, we came across our first net. At first, it looked like two more clusters of pot markers about 300m apart. Aiming to pass between them we saw, too late, a line of small white floats, maybe 10cm diameter and each 30m apart.
‘Net!’ I shouted as I pulled the throttles to idle and the gears to neutral. ‘Watch the floats as we go over them,’ I called to Lin.
We coasted and waited. Would I have to dive to cut ourselves free? Would our rope cutters work? I waited as Lin watched from the side of the Pilot House.
After an age, Lin shouted, ‘Looks like they’re not following us – we’re OK.’ I waited a few more moments just to be sure before engaging the gears and opening the throttles again. We’d had our first ‘net experience’.
Not knowing how nets are cast, I suspect each float has a line which suspends the net a few metres below the surface. We’d passed over the top.
Cruising up the west coast of Île de Noirmoutier it was just about high tide giving us some 4.5m above chart datum, confirmed by comparing the depth sounder against a sounding on the chart and the embedded local tide tables in our Furuno nn3d chartplotter.
‘If you’re OK with cutting the north western corner and passing through the reef, we’ll do it,’ I said the Lin. Looking at the chart, the calm sea and perfect visibility, the only issue would be pots and the fishermen. ‘We can dodge the pots, and for the fishermen we have Kahlenbergs – they don’t – and a black water tank,’ I added.
Sadly, we didn’t have to use the horns, not even once, but cutting the corner saved some 3.5nm and 25 minutes, putting us exactly on the best time to arrive at Pornic.Dozens of small boats were out fishing over a shoal bank just N of Île de Noirmoutier click to enlarge
Arriving
Leaving Île de Noirmoutier behind we entered the Baie de Bourgneuf of the Grande Rade de la Loire, and headed ENE straight for Pornic.
Pornic looked lovely. Large, beautiful villas lined the coast. Mature pine trees were everywhere, from which it earned its name of the Jade Coast.
Keeping close to the red port hand channel markers, we entered the marina and saw Mademoiselle in her dory waiting to take us to our berth. Perfect.
We intend to stay here a few days giving us plenty of time to explore.
The tecky details
Departed Les Sables d’Olonne – 0536
Arrived Pornic – 1249
Time on passage – 7hr 13min
Total planned distance – 59.9nm
Tides: Neap
Longest leg – 21.7nm from Basse Vermenou to Pont d’Yeu SCM
Tech issues – nil
Incidents – 1. The net.
Piers and Lin
From the Nav Table of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
Calm seas as the sun rose taken from the saloon on leaving St Martin de Ré click to enlargeWhilst moored in Port Garnier marina, Les Sables d’Olonne, thinking or our return plans to Guernsey, local trawlers of all sizes pass us by heading for their cooperative some 300m beyond the marina.
Since they bring fresh catch every moment of the day, we really don’t mind the noise or being tossed around by their wakes since the cooperative’s huge Poisonnerie displays the most amazing range of fresh fish and crustacea you can imagine.
None of this “it has to be sent to Grimbsy to be irradiated and tested for foot and mouth (or whatever it is)”. Straight from the sea to Play d’eau’s galley. What could possibly be better?
So what are the plans to return to Guernsey?
So, our plan is to be back in Guernsey by the end of September.
To achieve this, there are two possible neap tide windows in which to navigate the Brest peninsula and its Raz de Sein and Chenal du Four, namely the 31 August and 14 September.
Whichever we take, we’ll spend the remainder of the time exploring Brittany’s north coast before heading for Jersey to meet Graham and Francis of yacht Woolly Mammoth and finally heading home to Beaucette Marina.
Piers and Lin
from the Nav Table of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
Ian and Wendy on their Moody 422 bound for the Caribbean click to enlargeA UNESCO World Heritage site, St Martin is Île de Ré’s historic capital and ancient port surrounded by the citadel.
Small, old, full of history, buzzing with life. We cherished our time there.
You have to live the dream
Ian and Wendy’s Moody 422 yacht, Silver Slipper, was moored directly behind us. Having met in March 2012 and married in April 2013, they are gradually making their way to Las Palmas to take the ARC to the Caribbean.
‘We’ll cruise the hundreds of Caribbean islands until we feel it’s time to move on to the Pacific through the Panama Canal.
‘You have to live the dream – you must live the dream,’ emphasised Ian, ‘so we’ve sold everything to make it happen while we can.’
Watch the video of their departure from the UK bound initially for Guernsey, complete with their dog, Bumble.
Play d’eau makes a graceful stage exit
‘Living the dream’ captured as the sun rose behind us click to enlargeWith clear skies, a calm wind and the temperature already in the mid-twenties, it would be another perfect day for Play d’eau.
Ten minutes before our 0800 ETD we still had two 53’ motor boats and three yachts rafted against us. With one foot clearance behind, we were hemmed in by two boats in front, our bows in the gap between them by six feet.
At ETD plus ten they’d all moved and we cast off. We sidled, went forward a few feet and finally swung Play d’eau’s stern out and towards the lock, gracefully reversing out of the marina as though making a stage exit after the final curtain call.
The nav plan
Only one pinch point today, and that was the opening time of the St Martin lock. Not a problem, and given the travel time to Les Sables d’Olonne was only some three hours we’d arrive before lunch when hopeully there’d still be a space for us at the Quai Garnier port.
The Journey
The radar screen erupted with yellow targets as we neared Les Sables d’Olonne (30 second trails in blue) click to enlargeA really gentle and calm crossing with the fun beginning in the last few miles when the radar erupted with a rash of yellow targets as the world appeared to be out on their boats. There were dozens and dozens, everywhere.
Arriving
As planned, there was space for us on pontoon A, but within an hour of mooring up (and Lin having hosed Play d’eau down) boats were being turned away.
The tecky details
Departed St Martin de Re – 0810
Arrived Les Sables d’Olonne – 1141
Total distance – 25.8nm
Longest leg – 17.5nm from Les Islattes NCM to Bourgenay SWM
Tech issues – nil
Piers and Lin
from the Nav Table of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
We overhung the boats in front by 6 feet and had five boats rafted against us click to enlargeOnly 1 foot clearance between us and Silver Slipper click to enlarge
The beautiful river Charente at Rochefort click to enlargeAs the song goes, ‘mud mud, glorious mud’!
On our way was to Rochefort we travelled 12 miles up the beautiful river Charente, where the colour of the water became more and more brown-green. By the time we arrived the colour was so dense that nothing could be seen if it was much more than an inch below the surface.
Walking along the river bank at low tide showed just how muddy and silty the banks were, looking as though it was ‘quick mud’ if there is such a thing. Piers found a small pebble and tossed it at the mud. It sank out of sight causing a spurt of brown water to jump into the air.
Would I want to fall into this? A beauty treatment, maybe? No thank you.
Lin
from the Saloon of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
The mud bank by the entry to the lock from the river click to enlargeYou can see the mud-trail left by this paddling tern click to enlargeWhen the lock gate opens the mud is stirred in the marina click to enlargeJust before the lock opens, the mud builds against the gate click to enlargePlay d’eau needed a good cruise in clean water after sitting in this for five days click to enlargeThe banks of the river Charente were covered in reeds. Clumps floated everywhere click to enlarge
Port St Denis d’Oléron marina was a huge parking lot for Merry Fisher boats click to enlargePort St Denis d’Oléron was crowded. The only visitors’ pontoon was tightly packed and Play d’eau was on the inside of a raft of four; the bulk of the marina seems to be a huge parking lot for Merry Fisher boats.
The Capitainerie staff was brilliant. Under their direction boats were shuffled to give us an outside position against an old beautiful (but actually brand new) 60’ twin masted sailing boat for the last night so we could leave early for St Martin on Île de Ré. Perfect.
The nav plan
The two pinch points (it always seems to be two, doesn’t it?) on this journey were the entry/exit times at both Port St Denis and St Martin de Ré, but given the passage time was just over two hours, it wouldn’t be a problem.
The Journey
St Martin de Ré – our mooring overlapped the yachts in front click to enlargeCasting off at 0551, we used the FLIR camera to pick our way through the unlit buoyed channel to the sea. Exciting!
The journey itself was lovely with twilight changing to dawn as we neared Île de Ré. So beautiful.
The forecast was for W/NW winds F2 but reality was entirely different with an E’ly F3. It’s been interesting that forecast winds seem to bear nothing to reality in this area of the Vendée.
Arriving
Calling the St Martin Capitainerie on ch 9, we were told there was no space until the evening. In the hope this would change as more boats left in the half hour before the lock closed, we hooked onto one of the visitors’ buoys. Determined to keep Play d’eau in the forefront of the Capitainerie’s mind, I called again to announce we were moored to ‘bouée seize’. ‘D’accord,’ came the reply.
A few minutes later we heard, ‘Vedette Play d’eau, ici St Martin. Il y a une place maintenant. Venez vite puisque l’écluse se ferme en dix minutes’. (Please excuse my dreadful knowledge of French…)
We unhooked, venezed vite, très vite, and moored to the smallest pontoon space I’ve ever seen between two rafts of boats four deep, just as the lock gate closed behind us.There was not a lot of space behind, either click to enlargeAs we all know, mooring is not so much a skill but a spectator sport. Finally, as we eased Play d’eau against the pontoon with her bows overhanging six feet into the space in front between the bows of the two rafted yachts, we were give a round of applause!
Whilst taking a bow, a cheery Welsh voice drifted across the marina, ‘Hi Piers!’ It was Mike and Heidi of Yacht El Aranque, whom we’d met in La Rochelle. For Mike, read Dale Nelson.
Within moments we had a Princess 52 and four yachts rafted alongside.
Memories
Looking at how the boats were stacked reminded me of Kim Hollamby leading his MBM cruise in company fleets. You needed to use a feeler gauge to measure how close he’d packed them all in….
The tecky details
Departed Port St Denis d’Oléron – 0551
Hooked St Martin de Ré visitor’s buoy (No 16) – 0802
Unhooked the buoy – 0818
Moored St Martin de Ré – 0830
Total distance – 16.6nm
Longest leg – 12.9nm from Port St Denis WP to Grand Greffe ECM
Tech issues – nil
Piers and Lin
from the Nav Table of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
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These were the voyages of Piers and Lin du Pré aboard their Fleming 55
