Tag Archives: l’aber wrac’h

Cruising

Leg 21 – L’Aber Wrac’h to Roscoff – 30 August 2013

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Morning calm looking towards L’Aber Wrac’h’s estuary
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Three weeks ago when we left Rochefort, we had the distinct feeling we were starting our journey home; latitude was increasing and we were heading north – homeward bound.

The feeling became a reality yesterday on reaching L’Aber Wrac’h. Having turned the corner around the Brest peninsula we’d now track east along Brittany’s rock strew north coast.

‘The end is nigh,’ Piers said to Lin, dramatically. ‘Rubbish,’ was the immediate response. ‘It’s the start of the next stage of this whole adventure.’

Lin was right, of course.

There remain many delightful ports to visit along this coast and we can’t wait to see yacht Woolly Mammoth’s Graham and Frances in Jersey and together, have fun tormenting the local restaurants – again.

Pinch points

Threading our way through the reefs saved 30 minutes passage time
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With no pinch points as such, we just wanted our easterly passage to Roscoff to be without hassle. If we could have the Atlantic swell behind us and a following tide and wind that didn’t interfere with us, that would be spot on.

The nav plan

Looking at the tide tables, if we left L’Aber Wrac’h at 0900 we’d catch the flood tide all the way to Roscoff.

The final stage of the route would require pilotage along the narrow Canal de Île de Batz separating Île de Batz from Roscoff, after which a turn to starboard would bring us to Roscoff’s new Bloscon marina.

The weather

Before departure, a SW’ly hushed at F2 whilst the sky above was half blue and half fractured cloud. To the east it was bright whilst to the west continuous dark cloud reigned supreme.

The chart showing our route along the Canal de Ile de Batz
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The cloud to the west signalled an approaching warm front, but the synoptic charts showed it wold slide SE taking its rain with it. We should run ahead and out pace it.

The journey

Another perfectly calm and flat sea awaited Captain Lin as she took Play d’eau off her pontoon and drove her out of the marina into the river, and headed for the sea. I was on warp and fender duty….

As ever, our planned route is always the safe route. Given it was calm and the tide was almost slack, we cut the corner by heading north through the rocks cutting off half an hour travel time.

There was nothing arduous on this passage. The tide and wind were with us, and the Atlantic swell gently caressed Play d’eau as we headed for the Canal de Île de Batz. A fleet of four small fishing boats here posed no threat – they simply made way for us.

Large patches of weed were waiting to strangle our props and rudders
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The only nuisance was the large amount of green weed at the entrance to the Canal. The issue with weed is that you never know what may be caught up in it. Netting? Rope? All designed to strangle your props and rudders and stop you dead in the water.

We carefully steered around the many clumps that blocked our way.

The Île de Batz looks simply delightful and has a number of small bays perfect for anchoring-out. One day.

Arriving

Turning to starboard to enter Roscoff’s approach channel, we slid by the docked Brittany Ferry busy disgorging its holiday makers onto French soil.

The Reeds Nautical Almanac helpfully, but somewhat unnecessarily, suggests small boats should keep clear of the ferries….

A few hundred metres on we entered the new Roscoff Bloscon marina and were met by a really helpful member of staff in his RIB. We were shown to the hammerhead of Ponton B.

A Brittany Ferry in the commercial port next to the Roscoff Bloscon marina
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The sun was out and it wasn’t raining. We’d beaten the warm front.

Another perfect cruise on another perfect day as we begin the next phase of our adventures.

The tecky details

Departed L’Aber Wrac’h – 0900
Arrived Roscoff – 1325
Time on passage – 4hr 25min
Total planned distance – 35.15nm
Tides: Neaps
Longest leg – 16.2nm from Aman Ar Ross NCM to Basse Plate NCM

Tech issues – Mastervolt battery charger (model 24/100-3) has failed. Back-up remains working.

Incidents – nil
Navigational info: nil

Piers and Lin
From the Nav Table of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.

Cruising

Leg 20 – Camaret to L’Aber Wrac’h – 29 August 2013

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We left Camaret in thick fog on weapons
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Yes, yes, yes! Fog – and lots of it. Maybe 100m maximum.

So today we’d be on full weapons using our new radar seriously after all these hours of practising. And let’s not forget the Kahlenbergs and their auto-signaller for those four second blasts every two minutes.

One point to remember from yesterday’s passage was the port engine overheat. How would she (it? Non!) behave today? I had been into the engine room, talked kindly to her, stroked her and told her how much we valued and relied on her. In true HR style, I had no doubt she would behave itself.

The nav plan

Today’s pinch point would be the Chenal du Four as we made passage around the second part of the Brest peninsula. Needing to take this at slack tide meant being off Le Conquet at HW Brest +¼ or -5¾.

Last time in L’Aber Wrac’H we drank biere. Now it’s Breton Cidre
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Not wanting to leave at silly’o’clock in the morning, we opted for the -5¾ point even though it meant we would be punching into a S’ly tide after Le Conquet. Mind you, it shouldn’t be too bad since it was neaps.

Our planned track from the Chenal would take us outside the coastal reefs, but if the seas were kind we could always cut corners and arrive significantly ahead of plan.

The weather

As we breakfasted, the gentlest of zephyrs was feeling its way around the marina, the fog creating an unreal silence, and over a coffee, we had a refresher of COLREG 19b. We felt prepared, nervous, yet excited.

The forecasts showed a maximum of a N’ly F2. With tides only a day away from neaps, the passage should be really smooth, even in the Chenal du Four.

Hollamby Portable Radar units

Whilst making a final check of the forecasts, three yachts with no radar and showing no lights left the marina. Not even one of those new Hollamby Portable Radar (HPR) units was in sight. Here, we’ll refrain from making further comment.

The journey

Easing off the pontoon we felt our way out of the marina and soon lost sight of land. Activating the Kahlenberg auto-signaller, I reminded Lin the horns were just about to fire.

A beautiful sky and sunset displayed itself as we bade farewell to the west coast of Brittany
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They did, and despite the warning, we both jumped. In fact, even though we knew they’d keep firing every two minutes, we couldn’t stop ourselves from jumping every time. But the glorious rich and loud sound they gave made every jump well worth it.

The radar was simply brilliant. Seagulls, whether swimming or flying, and pots, were all identifiable. Boats from small Merry Fishers to high speed Vedettes could all be tracked and it was so useful to see their relative, as well as true, vectors.

The Chenal was flat calm. Trusting our radar, chart plotter and its back up, we passed close to the Le Four lighthouse specifically to take some photos through the fog.

Targets in the fog

Interestingly, although there was little traffic on the water, we didn’t have to alter course for any boats, only pots. Boats seemed to change direction and move out of our way.

The Le Four lighthouse hiding in the fog
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We wondered if it had anything to do with the Kahlenbergs….

Arriving

With an hour and a half to run, the fog lifted revealing blue skies and perfect visibility. Taking as many short cuts as we could and arrived at L’Aber Wrac’h some 50 minutes ahead of plan.

Did the port engine behave herself? Admirably.

The tecky details

Departed Camaret – 0902
Arrived L’Aber Wrac’h – 1454
Time on passage – 5hr 19min
Total planned distance – 36.05nm
Tides: 1 day before Neaps
Longest leg – 7.4nm from Pointe de Grand Goven to Roche de La Dorade
Tech issues – nil

Incidents – nil

Navigational info: As in the previous leg, be at the Chenal du Four at neaps, slack tide, and a wind less than F3

The Petit Pot de Beurre ECM in the estuary to L’Aber Wrac’h
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Piers and Lin
From the Nav Table of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.

Cruising

Rounding the Brest Peninsula

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This pigeon rested on Play d’eau for ten hours gathering its strength before flying off
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Hi Everyone.

We are about to head for the Brest peninsula to take advantage of the neap tides. This will involve us travelling from La Roche Bernard via Port Louis (Lorient), Port La Foret, Camaret and L’Aber Wrac’h, in the next few days.

Of course, if the weather and sea state prevent this happening, we’ll have plenty of time to update the site.

Hence, if there are no posts please forgive us. There’re many sea miles to cover with little time off, leaving even less time for the fun of updating the website.

However, as soon as we can, we will resume normal service.

Piers and Lin
From the Saloon of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.

Cruising

Leg 3 – L’Aber Wrac’h to Camaret – 19 June 2013

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The calm before the storm

The sun rises over a calm sea
as Play ‘eau leaves L’aber wrac’h
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Having rigged for ‘silent running’ (it was still night when we left) Play d’eau motored out of L’Aber Wrac’h marina and down the river bound for Camaret at 0430 to catch the best of slack tide whilst transiting the notorious Chenal du Four.

With almost no wind the seas were flat. Oily, glassy flat calm. Perfect for Play d’eau and her crew.

Nearing the Chenal, the seas remained spirit level flat although a N’ly wind had started to appear, sending occasional shivers of ripples across the surface.

Camaret or Audierne?

Arriving off Le Conquet a decision had to be made. Should we continue to Camaret or slow to 3.5kts to reach the even more notorious Raz de Sein at slack tide in five hours time?

By now the wind was a rising N F3 and the forecast was soon for a F4/5. The choice was to take the Raz in the forecast wind or wait for the forecast F3 in the morning. We chose the latter trusting the forecast was right. If it wasn’t, we’d be spending many days in Camaret waiting for the next weather/tide window.

The strange water fitting which is apparently now a standard in many French marinas
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Water, water everywhere, but not a drop to drink

Arriving in Camaret it was already blowing a strong F4. The marina was crowded with yachts waiting for elusive weather windows but we managed to squeeze into a space on the end of a pontoon giving us a metre between our stern and a yacht and our bow not quite overhanging into the channel.

Having connected shore power I went to hook our hose to the pontoon’s water supply. Looking for the tap all I found was something resembling a compressed air outlet. ‘Is this the water supply?’ I asked a British yacht. ‘Yes. Many French marinas have been upgrading their water outlets, and this fitting is now common.’ Hmmm.

We walked the mile into town to pay our dues to Le Capitainerie and ask where we could buy the fitting for our hose. With a Gallic shrug and a sound like ‘Pfff’, the words ‘Je sais pas’ completed the gesture.

A half mile further on found the Chandlery. More of a nautical gift shop than a ‘swindlery’. The only hose fittings they had were garden fittings. Maybe the Super-U?

Hose fittings or Lunch?

A perfect lunch, Pate de Campagne Echalotte and baguette. The Maille Framboise vinegar is only in the pic to show we found some at the Super-U; it’s not for adding to the pate!
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A half mile further on we found the Super-U. Again, no hose fittings. To compensate, we bought a large slice of Paté Campagne Echalote Fraiche for lunch to go with a Baguette. Perfect.

We also managed to find some Maille Raspberry Vinegar which we prize highly and which has proven impossible to find in Guernsey.

The storm?

By the time we returned to Play d’eau the wind had risen to a N’ly high F5 vindicating our call not to carry onto the Raz de Sein.

Let’s hope the wind has dies down as the forecasters predict, ready for noon departure tomorrow? We’ll see.

Tecky details

0515hrs FST – Departed L’aber wrac’h
0955hrs FST – Arrived Camaret
Planned distance – 36.4nm
Longest leg – 7.4nm
Tech problems – nil

Makes you wonder what stories this old abandoned wooden trawler could tell Play d’eau over a beer
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Piers and Lin

Piers and Lin
from the Pilot House of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

PS: Message for Hil – we’ll save some Framboise for you.

You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.

Cruising

Leg 2 – St Peter Port to L’Aber Wrac’h – 18 June 2013

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Finding our Sea Legs

The orange brush stroke twixt sky and sea as Play d’eau left St Peter Port
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The sea was calm as the sun woke from its night’s dreams to peek over Herm, creating an orange brushstroke between the grey sky and sea, as we motored out of St Peter Port. Such a contrast from the previous evening’s strong E’ly F5 blowing swell and white caps into the harbour the previous evening.

The eleven and a half hour sector from St Martin’s Point to Lizen van Ouest WCM (five miles due north of L’Aber Wrac’h but ten sea miles around the rocky coast) remained surprisingly calm with almost no Atlantic swell and only the occasional V-formation of gannets.

Taken by surprise

In the middle of the vast, peaceful open ocean, our solitary bubble was suddenly pierced. ‘Play d’eau, Play d’eau, Play d’eau, this is Still Calm, Ch16, over.’ I was being hailed by a 60’ East Bay (I think it was) which was closing on us at 21kts en route to Benodet.

Perfect calm en route between St Peter Port and L’Aber Wrac’h
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Its Jersey owner had apparently bought a pair of Kahlenberg horns from Toby and had heard about Play d’eau.

Small world, aye?

The calm seas extended right through to L’Aber Wrac’h where we were able to cut corners close to the rocks and motor gently up river to the marina, finding a perfect spot to park just inside the wavebreak at 7.30pm French Summer Time.

Our first taste of France, 2013

Needing exercise, we jumped ship and walked to the Café du Port and had our first taste of France – a cold Pression. After thirteen hours of sailing (motoring!) it was just gorgeous.

It took great will power not to have another; we had to have supper and plan for our early morning departure for Camaret.

Our first cold pression this year – hard not to order more….
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But whilst sitting at the bar, we found ourselves gently rocking.

We’d found our sea legs!

Tecky details

0519hrs BST – Departed St Peter Port
1812hrs BST – Arrived L’Aber Wrac’h
Planned distance – 105.4nm
Longest single leg – 92.7nm

Tech problems – nil

Piers and Lin
from the Pilot House of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

PS – Message for Dave and Gary – Restaurant Le Vioban is exactly where you said it would be. The menu looks luscious, so we’ll eat there on our return trip in a month or three…

You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.

Sunset at L’Aber Wrac’h
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The wonderful sunset light across
L’Aber Wrac’h’s marina
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Cruising

Goodbye cabin fever – hello Brittany!

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Play d’eau
in St Peter Port, Guernsey at the start of our summer cruise around Brittany
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At last!

After I don’t know how many weeks of staring at weather forecasts, the skies and sea states, we have started our summer cruise – just four days before mid-summer’s day.

Waiting had caused Cabin Fever to set in to the point it had almost become Cabin Rot. Endless delays had been caused by high winds and tracing the last of the gremlins in the new electronics.

But now it’s goodbye Cabin Fever, hello Brittany.

Summer Cruise Leg 1

So today we positioned Play d’eau from Beaucette Marina to St Peter Port to take advantage of catching the tide early tomorrow morning (18 June) for the 12 hour journey to L’Aber Wrac’h on the north west coast of Brittany.

The St Peter Port water taxi
fondly known as the ‘St Peter Port exocet missile’
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The next day (19 June) we plan to take the Chenal du Four and Raz de Sein bound for the pretty, little marina, at Audierne. After that, who knows?

When will we be back?

Our plans are to cruise the west coast of Brittany followed by the north coast as well. How long will we be away? Who knows – maybe we’ll be back in September, maybe October. We’re retired now, so it doesn’t matter.

Piers and Lin
from the Pilot House of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.