The final act of defiance – a dramatic downpour click to enlargeWe knew we were in for a week of strong winds. That’s why we’d kept moving.
The NE F6/7 had been relentless, howling across Audierne ever since we arrived accompanied mostly by strong sunshine with the occasional spot of rain.
But the weather was no match for Play d’eau. She was becoming uneasy and wanting to move on with her holiday. Play d’eau won, of course.
The weather suddenly gave in and the wind dropped, yet in the same way as a teenager mumbles after being told off, the blue skies were replaced by grey cloud as a warm front moved overhead and a gentle rainfall began.
As the door slammed in the final show of defiance, a sudden heavy downpour was the final flourish of ‘I don’t care’ before leaving the stage to a grey sky and no wind as evening fell to night.
We’d leave tomorrow, mid-morning.
Hydraulic leaks
The blue oil spill from the port stabiliser ram click to enlargeAnnoyingly, we’d found two hydraulic leaks associated with the port stabilser. The first was from a seal on the ram and the second was a weep on a gear oil feed pipe connection. Contacting Golden Arrow, the European distributor, we began discussing options with their stabiliser guru, Brian George. As far as continuing the cruise we could simply immobilise the port fin but continue using the starboard fin.
That would be fine provided there wasn’t a sudden increase in leakage so we needed to plan for Brian to attend Play d’eau in La Rochelle or sooner. It would be a day’s work.
Au revoir, Audierne
We awoke early. Although it was misty it was ‘good to go’. The wind was calm.
Piers bought the croissants, took some final photos, visited le propriétaire de la cave d’Audierne (from whom we’d bought an outstanding Armagnac and Alsace dessert wine), and the Harbour Monster to say, ‘Au Revoir’, and we cast off at 1115 just as the sun appeared.
En route
An unhappy house near the entrance to Port la Forét click to enlargeCompletely uneventful. Calm seas, a warm sun and a gentle breeze from the SW helping us along.
Working with a single stabiliser fin was fine. Not as precise, but perfectly acceptable. Mind you, the sea was kind today.
Nav data
Times are FST.
Departed Audierne: 1115, 12 June 2015
Pinchpoints: Access over the sand bars at the entrances to Audierne and Port la Fôret
Arrived Port la Fôret: 1620
Time en route: 5hr 5min
Planned distance: 39nm
Tech issues:
With no return of the previously reported vibration, the Tech Log entry was altered to ‘resolved’
The oil leak from the port Trac stabiliser ram is concerning. Discussions are ongoing with the European agents, Golden Arrow
Piers and Lin
from the navigation table of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
Dawn breaks over Audierne click to enlargeOh how we love this small, unspoiled, market fishing town which has no pretensions or modern glamour to smother its original reality. Thankfully, the long arm of ‘Progress’ has kept its destructive hands away from Audierne.
Meanwhile, the town’s extensive shell fish industry has kept it firmly on the haute cuisine map by serving much of France with fresh crab, lobster, langoustine, sardines and line-caught fish.
You can imagine the excitement when notices outside Audierne wet fish shops declare ‘Langoustines Vivante – arrive à 19 heures ce soir’. Queues grow long.
Similar to St Peter Port
In a way, the town looks similar to St Peter Port before its marinas were created. The fishing fleet moors against the long sea wall which fronts the town’s road with its shops, houses and the Le Goyen 3 star Hotel. More houses line the small hill behind, all with slate roofs. The marina has been added at the end.
She needed a bath
After six hours, we finished cleaning and had a drink click to enlargeHaving travelled from Beaucette in not the best of seas, Play d’eau was covered in salt and needed a good bath.
Jason, who cleans and polishes Play d’eau regularly, had been a good tutor. ‘A good soapy bath at least once a week and a good coat of carnuba wax polish every two months. Do the upper deck one month, and the lower deck the next.’ Yes, Jason.
Having arrived in the early morning from Camaret, we started just after lunch. Six hours later, she’d had her (very) soapy bath, all over, been rinsed down and chamois leather dried. She looked good, really good. We broke out the Peroni and quaffed on the aft deck in hot sunshine.
Bas Armagnac and…
The sign read ‘De Vigne en Vin’ and pointed to a side road. Once inside the Cave, fine wines were beautifully laid out in three cool cellars. The last had an array of Armagnac.
After many tastings, resistance was low and we just had to buy a very fine Armagnac, didn’t we?The cellars of De Vigne en Vin d’Audierne click to enlargeBeing fully in the spirit of the event we began tasting dessert wines. An Alsace from the Gewurztraminer grape stood out. It would have been ungracious of us not to buy it and find an excuse to drink it.
A treat
Having had an unexpectedly good dinner served with beautiful French elegance in the 3 star Hotel Goyen two years ago, we booked a return treat.
The surroundings hadn’t changed. A light grey décor, wallpaper on the doors, white starched table cloths and waitresses who seemed to flow and glide rather than walk.
Whilst consuming glasses (note the plural) of champagne, we studied the menu. With Lin choosing lobster for a main course the Maître d’hôtel returned with three live local specimens displayed on a silver salver. Pointing to one of them, Lin said, ‘Emile, please.’
An excellent bottle of Sancerre accompanied six local No 3 oysters, crab meat rolled in thin slices of raw white fish, and langoustine tails (raw) in a delightful soya and lentil broth. Emile, gently roasted, and a sea bass poached in a fennel vegetable stock, followed. With no room for anything else, Piers paid the bill and knocked his expresso all over the table cloth.Le Goyen 3 star Hotel click to enlargeWithout doubt, the stars were the lobster and sea bass. It’s rare to find fish so beautifully prepared and both were simply magnificent. And now for the ‘but’: if there was any criticism, it was that the accompaniments on the dishes were dark brown or grey and somewhat dull. They needed the next level of brightening with colour and burst of flavour.
A day trip to Quimper
Being such a small marina, mainly for privately owned fishing and sailing boats, there’s only room for a handful of visitors on the hammerheads. Given its size there’s no marina wi-fi (wee-fee) so visits to the local bars and cafés for Chocolat Chaud or Cidre Pression were necessary. Quelle domage.
On the other hand, if we had a mobile wi-fi extender as we did in South Africa, we might be able to save the not inconsiderable amount we were spending on cidre.
On a dull and chilly day, we took the hour long bus journey to Quimper (yes, Piers went on a bus…). We found the Orange emporium next to the Cathédrale Saint-Corentin de Quimper. €85 later, we had a 4G Orange Let’s Go (pay as you go) Airbox and credit valid for six months. Will it work?
Time to depart
And now we must make ready to depart for Port la Fôret tomorrow, 12 June 2015.
Piers and Lin
from the saloon of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
A Bas Armagnac magnifique click to enlarge
An equally magnifique Alsace dessert wine click to enlarge
Cathédrale Saint-Corentin de Quimper began construction in the 1200s click to enlarge
An interesting roof line click to enlarge
The Catherdral’s Last Supper window click to enlarge
Glorious back streets of ages untold click to enlarge
Ocean Pearl squeezes through the narrow entrance of Camaret marina click to enlargeAfter our horrid yet triumphant marathon passage making yesterday, we had a day off to recuperate before tomorrow’s short weather window would allow us to transit the Raz de Sein on 6 June.
If we missed this window, we’d be stuck for at least a week whilst the forecast NE gales played endless and annoying percussion by slapping rigging against masts of neighbouring yachts.
We’d be pushing ourselves but it would be worth it to be south of the Finistère Peninsula before the strong winds came. The plan was coming together.
Audierne, here we come.
Throughout the day, the skies remained heavily overcast with a strong, cold wind but no rain.
Croissant and hot chocolate
Although both Lin and I had sore tummies and my head still hurt, we retraced our steps into the village to have croissants and hot chocolate. A delectable feast.Ocean Pearl looks the business as she moors click to enlargeHow come only the French can make such delicious croissants?
Yesterday’s vibration
Being moored on the outside wasn’t ideal, so as soon as there was space in the marina we took it.
With nothing obvious being found with the drive shafts in the engine room, we needed to check if anything had been snagged on a prop. Piers would either don the dive kit or try our underwater video camera bought especially for the purpose.
Cable tied to the boat hook, the small camera worked brilliantly. The props could clearly be seen and thankfully nothing untoward was seen. We concluded we must have been snagged something during yesterday’s passage which had come free as we manoeuvred in Camaret.
We wait to see if the vibration returns on the next sector.
A phone call
Ocean Pearl moored opposite Play d’eau click to enlargeMy phone rang. ‘Piers, it’s Braun, Ocean Pearl. We are thinking of coming into Camaret. Are you there? We’re in the Chenal du Four right now.’
By mid-afternoon, the enormous Ocean Pearl held her breath and squeezed through the narrow marina entrance to moor in the only space available. Neighbouring yachts also held their breath whilst their skippers were heard to mutter, ‘Alors’, ‘Sacr%eacute; bleu’, and ‘C’est enorme!’
‘Come along for drinks, tonight,’ invited Tina. We need no encouragement.
A tour of Ocean Pearl
Lin’s first words were, ‘Wow, this is huge,’ as we stepped into the saloon.
We cannot begin to describe how large and beautifully crafted the vessel is. What a pilot house! To learn Braun and Tina had crossed the major oceans of the Pacific and Atlantic and have just been cruising extensively in the Baltic, was breathtaking.
There’s no doubt the Nordhavn 64 is built for serious ocean cruising in wonderful luxury.In pre-dawn twilight, cliffs and rocks look daunting as we left Camaret click to enlargeAs I write, I can hear Lin saying, ‘No, it’s not happening…’
The second fragile weather window
Given access to Audierne is limited by tide, the latest time to leave Camaret would be 0445 even though it placed us in the pinchpoint of the Raz de Sein an hour before slack water. The current spring tides wouldn’t help either and hopefully the forecast NW3 wind would be realised.
En route
As quietly as possible, we cast off and let the wind drift us away from the pontoon. Using engines only we manoeuvred out of the marina.
The FLIR thermal imaging camera came into its own. Presenting a daylight picture we were able to see pot markers, take avoiding action, and not be ‘hooked’.
Meeting a NW4/5 wind along the headland, the first hour was into the swell (again) and slop (again), but it smoothed out as we turned south for the Raz leaving us riding a 2m Atlantic swell only, broadside-on. The bonus was that the wind began to abate.
A yacht race
Early dawn after leaving Camaret click to enlargeHaving had the radar on short range for pot spotting, I increased it to 4 miles just before turning S towards the Raz. To my surprise dozens of targets covered the screen like angry acne, each with an AIS.
It was a yacht race. Some fifty or so 6m and 7m yachts were following a clockwise course from Morgat, through the Raz, along the S coast of the Ile de Sein to its western tip before heading NE to the Basse du Lis SCM and finally striking for Morgat.
The yachts had interesting names, such as ‘Follow me solo sailor’ and ‘Dinky toy solo sailor’.
Hey, if 6m yachts can handle the Raz, how on earth can we make a fuss?
The Raz
As hoped, the Ile de Sein protected us from the wind which by now had more W in it that N, making the transit almost smooth. Another non-event.At the end of the Raz, numerous Gannets signify a good feeding ground click to enlargeOnce through, the wind petered out as if by a switch. With only a following 2kt gentle breeze we cruised the next 7nm to Audierne in complete flat sea comfort. A call to the Harbour Master confirmed a hammerhead was ready for us as we entered the estuary and followed the narrow, winding dredged channel to the marina.
Audierne
The Harbour Master recognised and welcomed us, giving us a great welcome. He reminded us he was known by his friends as the Harbour Monster!
We love this small, unspoiled, market fishing town which has no pretentions and no modern glamour to smother its reality.
The sun was hot, the wind calm, and to our delight, we saw the farmers’ market was in full flow.
It’s so good to be back.
Nav data
La Vielle signifies the end of the Raz de Sein. Can you see the small fishing boat? click to enlargeTimes are FST.
Pinchpoints: Raz de Sein and tidal access to Audierne
Departed Camaret: 0445, 6 June 2015
Arrived Audierne: 0942
Time en route: 4hr 57min
Planned distance: 30.2nm
Sunrise: 0603
Tech issues: With no return of the previously reported vibration, we ticked it off as ‘resolved but watch’ in the Tech Log.
Piers and Lin
from the navigation table of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
The graveyard for old wooden fishing boats is next to the marina click to enlarge
Audierne. Hot sun and calm winds. Destination achieved click to enlarge
The west Brittany coast is strewn with reefs, rocks and lighthouses click to enlargeWith the sun daring to make one of her rare but welcome appearances during the summer months, Play d’eau and ship’s company waved au revoir to the small, unspoiled town of Audierne.
Audierne may not have the finest of marinas but it’s ‘real’. Wi-Fi may only be available from a bar on the quay front provided you keep drinking Cidre Pression (quel dommage), but when you have fresh croissants and baguettes and fresh local vegetables and fish only 200m away in the small covered market, does it really matter?
The nav plan
The plan was to leave Audierne as the tide fell and enter Port La Forêt as the tide rose again without , timing both so we didn’t fall foul of the sand bars at the entrances to both ports. It worked. Bringing his catch home, a fisherman proudly displays a fine moustache click to enlarge
Again, the sea was kind to us, keeping wonderfully flat and calm all the way with a wind never reaching more than a 4 knot NW’ly. Perfection for Play d’eau, not for yachts.
Port La Forêt
The first time we visited Port La Forêt was three years ago. We loved it then and we still love it.
As the piggy in the middle between Benodet and Concarneau, Port La Forêt tends to be bypassed by visitors. Such a shame since it’s a quiet yet vibrant marina with facilities way beyond the norm.
The France-Finistère training centre for the Figaro and 60′ single-hull races is based at Port La Forêt and some of the pontoons are especially wide for these single and multi-hull racing yachts.
Tecky details
A delight to behold click to enlarge0933hrs FST – Departed Audierne
1523hrs FST – Port La Forêt
Planned distance – 38.1nm
Longest leg – 13.0nm, Audierne to Men Hir on the Pointe de Penmarc’h peninsula
Tech problems – minor, annoying issues with the nav gear requiring investigation.
Piers and Lin
from the Pilot House of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
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Macif, one of the 60′ racing mono-hulls based at Port la Forêt with its huge mast click to enlarge
Looks like half the boat’s been cut off click to enlarge
A giant’s cat’s cradle for kids to climb in the play area click to enlarge
The Saveol 60′ racing mono-hull, one of many based at Port La Forêt click to enlarge
A Caravelle sailing vessel. There were 100 of these 60 tonners at Audierne (click to enlarge)We had no idea of the importance of Audierne and the sea – read on…
XVIth and XVIIth centuries
During the late XVIth and early XVIIth centuries, Audierne’s Breton sailors became known for their coastal navigation skills creating a commercial industry of almost a hundred 60 ton ‘Carvelle’ sailing vessels, all based in Audierne.
Merchants from all over Europe would hire these Carvelles, confident the crews with their knowledge of the narrow Breton channels would carry their goods safely.
The fortunes made by Audierne ship owners can be seen in the more opulent houses which remain to this day.
XVIIth and XVIIIth centuries
One of the magnificent houses built by an Audierne ship owner (click to enlarge)Later in the XVIIth century, French monarchy became involved in many wars hindering Audierne’s trade, and by the end of the XVIIIth century competition from the English and Dutch further diminished trade.
XIXth century
A maritime resurgence came in the XIXth century when sardine fishing became the new trade, growing to over 500 vessels supplying 20 canning factories, all based in Audierne.
Today
Today, there are no cargo vessels and no sardines and the number of fishing vessels has reduced considerably.
However, Audierne has diversified into shell fish, both farmed and fished and has a large processing plant standing halfway along the estuary. The output is huge and Audierne is now a major supplier throughout France of lobster, crayfish, scallops, brown and spider crab and langoustine.Audierne’s shell fish processing plant (click to enlarge)Piers
from the Saloon of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
La Vieille lighthouse 0.2nm NE of La Plate in the Raz de Sein click to enlargeWell, the wind screamed through yacht rigging and it poured with rain during the night but by 6am it had exhausted itself and become a reducing F4 with misty drizzle. By the time we cast off at 1113 it was a mere NW’ly 2. Perfect Play d’eau weather.
The nav plan
The ‘pinch point’ of the route was to be abeam La Plate WCM in the Raz de Sein at 1415 when the tide would be slack as it changed from north- to south-going. Given the wind was forecast NW F3, the passage through the Raz should pose no problems.
As soon as we emerged from the protection of the marina the wind began to pick up and for most of the journey to the Raz we had a WNW F5 with a 2m+ Atlantic swell on our beam causing Play d’eau to ‘loolop’ (a special Play d’eau technical term…) creating white caps on the coffee. The stabilisers worked hard.
Interestingly, the two hour journey to La Plate was more tiresome than the transit of the Raz itself. Maybe because the Raz was at slack, maybe it was the westerly wind. But it certainly wasn’t the tyrant it can be.
La Plate West Cardinal Marker in the Raz de Sein click to enlargePassing La Plate at 1412 (three minutes early: note to self – must try harder) we turned east towards Audierne with the wind and swell behind us. A gentle and lovely ride.
Audierne
Our AA guide tells us Audierne used to have a great fishing fleet travelling to Africa to catch tuna. Nowadays its fishermen concentrate on crustacia, lobsters, crab and langoustines.
Arriving
Arriving in Audierne was great fun. The marina is 1nm up the river, reached by a dredged channel which is narrow, and I mean narrow, passing some 25m from the breakwater and 15m from the fishing wharf – narrower than Beaucette Marina’s entrance! Concentrating on the leading lines marked by fore-aft chevrons, it worked perfectly.
Having called the harbour master, he had a hammerhead ready for us. Remembering we were there three years ago almost to the day, he was on the pontoon to welcome us back. A lovely touch.
Round the Finistère corner
The last few days have meant early rises and long hours. Now, well and truly around the Finistère corner, the pressure’s off and we can saunter south to warmer climes as and when we feel like it.
As I write, it’s overcast, raining and chilly. Lin’s just reminded me it’s mid-summer’s day tomorrow, and Christmas is only 6 months and five days away; forever the cheer-leader!This Gannet was swimming in the middle of the Raz de Sein with no concerns at all click to enlarge
Tecky details
1113hrs FST – Departed Camaret
1537hrs FST – Audierne
Planned distance – 30.5nm
Longest leg – 11.8nm, Basse de Lis SCM to La Plate WCM
Tech problems – nil
Piers and Lin
from the Pilot House of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
Message to Gary – given langoustines are fresh every day, we’re going to make Langoustines bisque!
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
These were the voyages of Piers and Lin du Pré aboard their Fleming 55
