Looking aft as we descend into the trough of the 3m swell click to enlargeDate of departure: 4 June 2015
We couldn’t sleep.
By 1am we were up and dressed. The light of the full moon was reflecting off the glassy flat harbour sea untouched by any hint of a wind. Perfect.
Fragile weather window
Yet we also knew from the forecast that as soon as we rounded St Martin’s Point on the SE of Guernsey and started heading WSW, we’d meet a 3m Atlantic swell topped with 1m waves stirred up by a NE4 wind.
These conditions would stay with us until abeam L’Aber Wrac’h for some 15 hours before turning south for the Chenal du Four and Camaret.
We knew it would be uncomfy. But we also knew that if we didn’t take this fragile weather window and make Camaret we would lose at least a week whilst the fronts in the North Atlantic and their associated pressure gradients played havoc with the winds and seas.
The old saying that the boat could cope but the crew couldn’t, would soon ring in our ears.
The longest day
Having cast off at 0230 and transited the east coast of Guernsey, we turned WSW and came head to head with the 3m swell. But it was just a roller coaster; gently up to its peak and gently down into its trough. In a way, quite soothing, soporific, quite enjoyable.
Were there the forecast 1m waves? Yes, but annoyingly they created a nasty steep slop causing Play d’eau to wallow. It was that movement, hour after hour, which made us both feel unwell. Lin was. I just felt ill but wasn’t. I also began to develop a fierce headache.
The Mary Celeste?
After 14 hours we turned SSW for Camaret where the seas became glassy flat click to enlargeSome 20 miles past Guernsey a target appeared on the radar, fine on the starboard bow. AIS gave her details as the 14m long Mardrea, at anchor, yet making 6.7kts.
At 0401 she passed 1.4nm to the north of us. No navigation lights to be seen and even in the pre-dawn light she was invisible.
Un petit mystère, je pense.
Planned diversions
In case we didn’t want to continue, we’d planned our options to return to Guernsey or divert to Roscoff or l’Aber Wrac’h depending upon where we were along the route. At each point we made the decision to keep going.
Chenal du Four
By mid-afternoon, clear skies were replaced by a grey, overcast dullness.
After 14 hours of this endurance run, we turned SSW for the Chenal du Four. Thankfully, the wind soon abated to a gentle F2 and the wind whipped waves and swell subsided.
By the time we approached the Chenal du Four the sea had become glassy flat. The wind was a mere 2kts, and what could have been a difficult encounter was nothing of the sort. A complete non-event.
Camaret
Pointe de Sainte Mathieu – the end of the Chenal du Four click to enlargeCamaret was full, albeit because boats had moored inconsiderately by occupying far more room than necessary. With a flat sea and no wind, we were content to moor on the outside of the outer pontoon.
Wanting to set foot on terra firma, we took the short walk into the village and had the mandatory first pression of the trip.
Post-mortem
Was the trip dangerous? No. Was it unpleasant? Yes. Was it worth it? Without question. Why? We were now well positioned to round the peninsula and start enjoying the holiday before the pressure gradients whipped themselves up to unsociably strong winds.
Nav data
Times are BST.
Pinchpoint: Chenal du Four
Departed St Peter Port: 0230
Arrived Camaret: 1952
Time en route: 17hr 22min
Planned distance: 139nm
Sunrise: 0506
Tech issues: Vibration when synchronising the engines. Having 100rpm difference stopped the vibration. Must check in Camaret.
Piers and Lin
from the navigation table of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
Hot sun and blue skies at Beaucette click to enlargeDate of departure: 3 June 2015.
With shouts of ‘fine weather and calm seas’ from friends Ricky, Dawn, Terry and Margaret, Play d’eau gave a long, echoing blast on her shiny Kahlenbergs signalling her exit from Beaucette with the west coast of France firmly in her sites. We just happened to be travelling with her.
Play d’eau was ready to go. Blue skies and a hot sun encouraged us. Jason had cleaned and polished her and Nick had varnished the ensign and burgee staffs. Her engines purred as she stretched her limbs ready for her two and half month summer cruise ahead.
The plan
Our extended summer cruise is to explore the many beautiful ports lining the west coast of France as we did in 2013 just after we’d retired. Cidre, gallettes, croissants and farmers’ markets add fuel to fire of excitement.Ocean Pearl in St Peter Port click to enlargeWe also wanted some dear friends to join us. John and Beryl for one part of the cruise and David (who we first met 42 years ago) for another.
Finistère Peninsula
To reach our planned cruising grounds we first had to clear the Finistère Peninsula. Two pinch points would be in the way. The Chenal du Four and Raz de Sein. To avoid potentially horrible seas we needed light winds and slack tides.
With the forecast showing only two short windows of opportunity, we decided to head straight for Camaret to clear the Chanel du Four. Due to tide constraints this meant waiting in St Peter Port, departing at 0230hrs the next morning and motoring for some 18 hours.
St Peter Port
30 minutes after leaving Beaucette, we motored into St Peter Port and moored on a waiting pontoon opposite Ocean Pearl, a USA flagged Nordhavn 64. Although only some 9’ longer then Play d’eau, she looked gigantic.Jason had cleaned and polished Play d’eau click to enlargeWith supper on the table, Ricky appeared in his RIB next to us. Looking first at Ocean Pearl and then at me, he said, ‘Now that’s a real boat, Piers.’ Growl….
Ocean Pearl
And then Ocean Pearl’s owners, Braun and Tina, appeared on their side deck. Tina held some papers in her hand.
‘Play d’eau, I’ve carried a copy of the article in Motor Boat and Yachting in which you wrote about your 2013 cruise along the Brittany coast. That’s where we headed right now.’
What a coincidence – how crazy is that!
Piers and Lin
from the navigation table of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
The orange brush stroke twixt sky and sea as Play d’eau left St Peter Port click to enlargeThe sea was calm as the sun woke from its night’s dreams to peek over Herm, creating an orange brushstroke between the grey sky and sea, as we motored out of St Peter Port. Such a contrast from the previous evening’s strong E’ly F5 blowing swell and white caps into the harbour the previous evening.
The eleven and a half hour sector from St Martin’s Point to Lizen van Ouest WCM (five miles due north of L’Aber Wrac’h but ten sea miles around the rocky coast) remained surprisingly calm with almost no Atlantic swell and only the occasional V-formation of gannets.
Taken by surprise
In the middle of the vast, peaceful open ocean, our solitary bubble was suddenly pierced. ‘Play d’eau, Play d’eau, Play d’eau, this is Still Calm, Ch16, over.’ I was being hailed by a 60’ East Bay (I think it was) which was closing on us at 21kts en route to Benodet. Perfect calm en route between St Peter Port and L’Aber Wrac’h click to enlargeIts Jersey owner had apparently bought a pair of Kahlenberg horns from Toby and had heard about Play d’eau.
Small world, aye?
The calm seas extended right through to L’Aber Wrac’h where we were able to cut corners close to the rocks and motor gently up river to the marina, finding a perfect spot to park just inside the wavebreak at 7.30pm French Summer Time.
Our first taste of France, 2013
Needing exercise, we jumped ship and walked to the Café du Port and had our first taste of France – a cold Pression. After thirteen hours of sailing (motoring!) it was just gorgeous.
It took great will power not to have another; we had to have supper and plan for our early morning departure for Camaret.Our first cold pression this year – hard not to order more…. click to enlargeBut whilst sitting at the bar, we found ourselves gently rocking.
We’d found our sea legs!
Tecky details
0519hrs BST – Departed St Peter Port
1812hrs BST – Arrived L’Aber Wrac’h
Planned distance – 105.4nm
Longest single leg – 92.7nm
Tech problems – nil
Piers and Lin
from the Pilot House of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
PS – Message for Dave and Gary – Restaurant Le Vioban is exactly where you said it would be. The menu looks luscious, so we’ll eat there on our return trip in a month or three…
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
Sunset at L’Aber Wrac’h click to enlarge
The wonderful sunset light across L’Aber Wrac’h’s marina click to enlarge
Play d’eau in St Peter Port, Guernsey at the start of our summer cruise around Brittany click to enlargeAt last!
After I don’t know how many weeks of staring at weather forecasts, the skies and sea states, we have started our summer cruise – just four days before mid-summer’s day.
Waiting had caused Cabin Fever to set in to the point it had almost become Cabin Rot. Endless delays had been caused by high winds and tracing the last of the gremlins in the new electronics.
But now it’s goodbye Cabin Fever, hello Brittany.
Summer Cruise Leg 1
So today we positioned Play d’eau from Beaucette Marina to St Peter Port to take advantage of catching the tide early tomorrow morning (18 June) for the 12 hour journey to L’Aber Wrac’h on the north west coast of Brittany.The St Peter Port water taxi fondly known as the ‘St Peter Port exocet missile’ click to enlargeThe next day (19 June) we plan to take the Chenal du Four and Raz de Sein bound for the pretty, little marina, at Audierne. After that, who knows?
When will we be back?
Our plans are to cruise the west coast of Brittany followed by the north coast as well. How long will we be away? Who knows – maybe we’ll be back in September, maybe October. We’re retired now, so it doesn’t matter.
Piers and Lin
from the Pilot House of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
Shell Beach with the family playing cricket click to enlargeWow! What can I say apart from thank you so much to Lin who had arranged days and days of celebrations involving all my immediate family to come to Guernsey for the long Bank Holiday weekend and beyond for my 65th birthday.
For months, Guernsey had been suffering from rain and strong NE’ly winds, but as soon as the family began arriving the winds died down, changed direction to blow from the west, and best of all the sun appeared and shone bright and strong in clear blue skies. I had no idea that Lin could arrange the weather as well….
Our four sons and their families began arriving on Monday 29 April. My sister and brother in law, Hilary and Christopher Finzi, and two of our dearest friends, John and Beryl, arrived on 2 May with the last of our children the next evening. Rather than all 17 of us staying on Play d’eau (!) Lin had block booked us all into holiday apartments in L’Erée on the south west coast of Guernsey.
So what happened?
Whilst waiting for everyone to fly in over the next day or so, we spent time on the beach with the children playing cricket, digging for Australia, making dinosaurs out of pebbles and hunting for shells, especially the Cowry.
Friday 3 May
With blue skies and a hot sun, we all took the Trident Ferry from St Peter Port to Herm and had the most wonderful day on a virtually deserted Shell Beach. Whilst we all walked from Rosiere Steps, Kiffer, my brother in law who has difficulty in walking, was driven by Rose, the Herm gardener, on her quad bike.
We spent the day hunting for Cowry shells, playing cricket, eating picnics, trying our best to devour all the luscious Herm ice cream on sale at the Shell Beach Café, and covering ourselves with anti-sun burn lotion.
At 1600, Rose returned to collect Kiffer and we caught the 1635 Trident Ferry back to St Peter Port.
Saturday 4 MayCelebration lunch at Pier 17 click to enlargeFrom L’Erée, all 17 of us caught the 1102 bus to St Peter Port from where we took the short walk to the Pier 17 restaurant where we were greeted by Chef Seamus. With the best table overlooking the harbour, we ate and drank to our hearts desire (and a bit more) from 1130 to 1600. The food was really excellent and the wines just perfect – especially the Zinfandel!
Sunday 5 May
After a ‘gentle’ start to the day, 15 of us boarded Play d’eau, donned lifejackets, listened to the skipper’s brief, and cast off bound for a round trip to see Herm’s Shell Beach from the sea.
From Beaucette, we threaded our way along the Corbette Passage and Percée Passage before heading for Belvoir and Shell Beach.
The sea was flat calm under blue skies and another hot sun. It doesn’t get better than this!
That evening we had a huge BBQ, eating large quantities of the Perelle Butchery’s gorgeous sausages and burgers hunted out by daughter-in-law Charlotte who’d negotiated a good price for the unusually large order!
Monday 6 May
After a morning under another hot sun on the sand at Port Soif playing endless games of cricket (I haven’t had so much exercise in ages), our sons and their families headed for the airport for their various return flights to the mainland. Many big hugs and tears of goodbyes were made amidst cries of ‘when are we coming back?’ from the grandchildren.
With our children and their offspring gone, it was suddenly quiet. Too quiet – we were missing the grandchildrens’ endless laughter and chatter. However, a sumptuous supper was prepared and devoured before we tried to watch a movie but in truth, we watched the opening credits and fell asleep.
The next few days were taken up with shopping, walks, working on Play d’eau, and eating at La Nautique.
Thursday 9 MayEn route in Play d’eau to Shell Beach heading between Herm and Jethou with Sark in the distance click to enlargeJohn and Beryl caught the Blue Islands 1325 to Southampton. I say ‘caught’ but they almost didn’t. We were so involved in chatting in the airport lounge that we became oblivious of the time until Lin suddenly said, ‘You must go.’
Hurrying to Departures, we said our tearful goodbyes and they disappeared towards security. As Lin and I went back upstairs to watch them leave, we heard the PA system calling for them. A few moments later, an even more urgent request for them was broadcast with the threat they’d be offloaded if they didn’t appear immediately. Where were they?
Finally, we saw them hurrying toward the small Jetstream aircraft with John trying to hold his trousers up! Apparently, he’d kept setting the alarms off in security and despite many searches and frisks, nothing could be found. He hadn’t even had time to put his belt back on….
What next?
My sister and brother in law are staying on for a while. With my birthday on Sunday, we’ll be eating at The Restaurant at Beaucette Marina and next Thursday we’ll take the Condor fast cat to Jersey for a few days.
What it is to be 65!
Piers
from the Saloon of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
Shell Beach Cafe click to enlarge
The gorgeous colour of Herm lichen click to enlarge
A deserted Shell Beach as the family hunts for Cowries click to enlarge
My sister Hilary and husband Christopher Finzi on Shell Beach click to enlarge
Grandparents and two grandchildren hunt for Cowries click to enlarge
The hunt for Cowries intensifies Herm ice-creams are dependent on the result! click to enlarge
‘Found one!’ click to enlarge
…and the winner is? click to enlarge
Diccon takes aim… click to enlarge
…and scores the first ‘six’ with a brilliant stroke! click to enlarge
Our dear friends, John and Beryl always insist on paddling click to enlarge
Golden sands, golden Beryl click to enlarge
Would you like some of my seaweed? click to enlarge
Lin with one of our four grandchildren! click to enlarge
About to leave Shell Beach after a glorious day click to enlarge
Boarding the Trident for St Peter Port after Rose had driven Christopher to the dock on her quad bike click to enlarge
Our eldest son’s two children click to enlarge
Lin and a tired granddaughter arriving at St Peter Port click to enlarge
Two tired Mums after the day on Herm click to enlarge
Leaving Herm on the Trident Ferry after a glorious day in the sun on a deserted Shell Beach click to enlarge
Adam starts with Champagne and Charcuterie click to enlarge
I always wear my Aunt’s sunglasses click to enlarge
Uncle Toby with an armful of nephews click to enlarge
This is my bestest uncle Adam click to enlarge
Adam and Didi click to enlarge
Do I have to share him? click to enlarge
Our 4 sons & 4 grandchildren click to enlarge
Creativity in sand and pebbles click to enlarge
‘Almost through to Australia’ click to enlarge
Didi with two of our grandchildren at L’Erée click to enlarge
Two cheeky weasels click to enlarge
Come on Dad, let’s get going…. click to enlarge
Leaving Beaucette through its narrow entrance click to enlarge
Almost through…breathe in! click to enlarge
Our eldest son sizzles the sausages for a BBQ click to enlarge
The family on Boxing Day 2008. Maia was born in June 2009 click to enlarge
… the first contingent of our family arrives for the celebrations of Piers’ 65th birthday.
The actual date that he becomes officially old is 12th May. However, with a bank holiday on 6th we have all the family able to enjoy a long weekend, with some coming earlier and some staying later.
No, they are not staying on the boat – it’s not that big! Instead, we’ll all be staying in a block of Holiday Apartments where I’ll be able to enjoy a soak in the bath again!
We will be having a celebration lunch at Pier 17 on 4th – an ideal venue at the end of Albert Pier in St Peter Port. The food is really excellent and the views are such that our four grandchildren can watch the harbour’s comings and goings when they tire of adult conversation.
There will be 17 of us from 3 generations, ranging from Piers’ brother-in-law at 79 to our youngest grand-daughter who is 3 (correction – 3 & 3/4 – see comment below). It will be great having our four sons here with their families. Last time we were all together was Christmas which seems a long, long time ago. As an aside, our eldest has his birthday on May 12th as well!
Lin
from the Saloon of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
These were the voyages of Piers and Lin du Pré aboard their Fleming 55
