Tag Archives: La Rochelle

Ocean station vessel, this is Speedbird …

The France 1 Ocean Station Vessel
50 crew, launched 1958, decommissioned 1985
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“Ocean Station Vessel Lima, Ocean Station Vessel Lima, Ocean Station Vessel Lima, this is Speedbird 201, over.”

When flying for BOAC in the 1970s, I’d call these ocean station vessels (OSVs) on the VHF radio when overflying the Atlantic. Being stationed in specific geographic locations, OSVs could identify you by radar and advise your position. Really helpful given astro-nav and Loran were the two main navigation aids – there was no GPS in those days.

The ship France 1

France 1 is now a Maritime Museum moored in the Bassin des Chalutiers in La Rochelle, just across from where we are with Play d’eau.

Yesterday, we paid our few euros, picked up the English France 1 briefing, and boarded her. Standing on the aft deck Lin began reading.

‘France 1 was a stationary meteorological frigate operating in the Atlantic in the 1970s.’

OSV locations on the Atlantic
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It turned out that France 1 was an OSV, and more to the point, one with which I must have had radio contact during the many Atlantic crossings I did in the Boeing 707 in the 1970s. Memories began flooding back.

Mayday, Mayday, Mayday

I only ever heard one Mayday whilst flying and it was over the Atlantic, at night. A Piper Cherokee Arrow, a small single engine light aircraft with retractable undercarriage was en route from Newfoundland to Ireland.

The pilot was radioing a Mayday. No was answered, so I responded. He told me the Cherokee’s undercarriage had suddenly come down, adding drag, decreasing his airspeed and increasing his fuel consumption such that he now had insufficient fuel to reach Ireland and would have to ditch in the Atlantic. Could I contact the nearest OSV for radar guidance so he could ditch next to it and be rescued?

On the radio you could sense his relief at knowing he now had a potential route to survival.

I contacted the closest OSV. Yes, of course they’d help. I asked for the sea state. It was dreadful. Really dreadful. High winds, high seas, with huge primary and secondary swells. With full cloud cover and no moon it would be pitch black. He wouldn’t be able to see anything. His chance of surviving would be minimal.

The Communications Room on the France 1
The full size cardboard cut-out (left) is not me!
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Passing the sea state back to the pilot you could hear the fear grip his voice.

In the short pause that followed, a new voice came over the ether. ‘Speedbird, this is Ascot, over.’

‘Speedbird, this is Ascot’

Ascot was the callsign used by the RAF, and in this case it was an RAF Nimrod aircraft designed for maritime surveillance and patrol.

‘Speedbird, we have altered track to intercept the Cherokee and will shortly be in range to talk direct. Meanwhile, can the pilot give us his rate of fuel burn and remaining fuel?’

In the minutes that followed, the Ascot was in direct contact with the Cherokee just as we flew out of range. The last transmission I heard was, ‘Cherokee, this is Ascot. If you would like, we will direct you on the most efficient track to Shannon. We will overfly and follow you and if you need to ditch we will drop a survival raft and alert the rescue services accordingly. Would you prefer this to ditching by the OSV?’

France 1 had 3 x Paxman Norton 850hp main engines
creating 110dB and 35C in the engine room
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I didn’t hear the response from the Cherokee – we’d just flown out of range.

Any news?

The next morning I bought the Daily Telegraph hoping to find some news. Inside, a column inch stated ‘Yesterday, an RAF Nimrod on Atlantic patrol escorted a Piper Cherokee to Shannon after it had declared an emergency. Under guidance from the RAF the Cherokee managed to land at Shannon moments before running out of fuel.’

As I gazed at the communications room in France 1, I was re-living the moment and wondering if this was the OSV with which I had acted as that Mayday Relay?

Piers
from the Saloon of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.

The France 1 was diesel electric.
Each of her three main engines turned
a generator (above) to power…
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…two electric motors
one per propeller shaft
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Leg 10 – Les Sables d’Olonne to La Rochelle – 18 July 2013

Pre-dawn long-range pic of Les Sables tralwers off-loading their night’s catch
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As dawn was preparing to make her golden appearance to grace another red hot day, there was just enough light to see the trawlers off-loading their night’s catch at the maritime cooperative.

La Rochelle’s Bassin des Chalutiers was today’s destination.

Leaving Les Sables d’Olonne

Play d’eau was moored port side to. Having singled out the warps, Lin took the helm. Using a forward spring and a touch of starboard throttle, Lin gently eased the stern off the pontoon before engaging reverse power to take us off the berth at our planned departure time of 0730.

Neat, so neat.

The Journey

Flat calm and hot as we headed towards La Rochelle. On days like this it can be difficult to distinguish between sea and sky
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Flat, calm seas, under a hot sun. We almost succumbed to having the air conditioning on in the Pilot House, but noblesse oblige came to the fore. Instead, we baked (and regretted our decision).

Arriving

Access to the Bassin des Chalutiers is through a lifting bridge and lock gate, which is only opened for around two hours at top of tide. Hence, our early departure from Les Sables d’Olonne.

As we travelled under the huge bridge that links the beautiful Île de Ré with La Rochelle, we passed the deep water port before turning into the approaches to La Rochelle.

Giving the Capitainerie 30 minutes notice of our pending arrival on channel 9, we were met by M. Christian, Harbour Master, in his dory. Within moments the bridge lifted and M. Christian led us though the lock gate into the basin and to our berth.

We have electricity, water and Wi-Fi.

The tecky details

M. Christian, Harbour Master, guided us through the lock gate and to our berth
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0730 FST – Departed Quai Garnier, Les Sables d’Olonne
1245 FST – Arrived Bassin des Chalutiers, La Rochelle
Planned distance – 36.3nm
Longest leg – 13.7nm – Bourgenay SWM to NNW of Pt Grouin
Waypoints – 13
Tech issues – None.

Note: The oil leak reported on Leg 9 is under watch and will be repaired when back in Beaucette. The stabiliser pump and gearbox will have to be removed before the flywheel housing is exposed, after which the offending seal can be replaced.

Piers and Lin
from the Engine Room of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.

Memories of Les Sables d’Olonne

Le Clipper, restaurant gastronomique, where we celebrated our 41st wedding anniversary
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We’ve had a great time at Les Sables d’Olonne celebrating our 41st wedding anniversary, cleaning Play d’eau, exploring the town and enjoying the constant movement of trawlers.

Wedding Anniversary

We ate at Le Clipper, one of many restaurants along the Quai Garnier where Play d’eau is moored. Why Le Clipper? It’s mentioned in the Michelin Guide, it looked different, and Madame was so welcoming when I enquired about booking.

We arrived at 7pm to be met by Chef (who looked like Alastair Simm), Madame and their daughter. Lots of hand shakings and welcomes, especially when we told them it was our wedding anniversary.

Over a Kir Royale (fraise for Lin, mûre (mulberry) for me) we chose from the 37 euro menu.

After the gazpacho amuse bouche, we both had ‘Foie Gras de canard mi-cuit, chutney de poires aux épices doux’ with a large glass of Coteaux du Layon, an Appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC) for sweet white wine in the Loire Valley wine region of France, made from the Chenin Blanc grape, locally often called Pineau de la Loires. Luscious.

The Black Pearl, one of the larger trawlers
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The main course was ‘Filet de boeuf du Limousin cuit au sautoir purée de pommes de terre aux truffles blanche d’Italie’ washed down with a bottle of Chateau Grand Barrail from Lamarzelle, Figeac, St. Emilion.

After cheese and a small green salad, Lin chose the Croustillant d’ananas de Côte d’Ivoire rôti au cinq épices, crème aux saveurs des îles et glace coco’. ‘Just like the Caribbean on a plate,’ said Lin. I had ‘Crémeux de chocolat blanc et opaline de sucre à la vanille’. No wine with this course – we were full up!

Coffee, tea and a glass of Armagnac ended a great evening. Très gentil.

Trawlers and the fishing port

Quai Garnier shares port with the trawlers and fishing community. Large and small trawlers work non-stop, at all hours of the day and night. After off-loading their catches, they refill with ice and diesel from the maritime co-operative.

What a beach

One of the smallest trawlers and lobster boats, working from Les Sables d’Olonne
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Now we know why the town has the name ‘Les Sables’. Its sandy beach is simply stunning, and in the current hot weather, people made a bee-line for it.

Le sable of Les Sables.

Well, we’re off to La Rochelle early tomorrow, so until we write again, bon soir.

Piers and Lin
from the saloon of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.

The beautiful sand of the huge beach at Les Sables d’Olonne
click to enlarge