Well, we’re homeward bound. After a magnificent and glorious three weeks in South Africa, we have travelled from Cape Town to Durban to Amsterdam and will shortly leave for Guernsey.
Cape Town
After taking afternoon tea at Cape Town’s Mount Nelson Hotel (as a chap and chapess do), we flew to Durban and stayed at the Granny Mouse Country Lodge, some 90 minutes west of the city, for one night before catching an Emirates flight to Amsterdam.
Today, we take a Blue Islands flight back to Guernsey (via the ‘other island’) to be reunited with Play d’eau. In a strange way we know it’s time to go home, yet our hearts have been certainly captured by South Africa.
As Amy’s brother, Kevin, had said to us, ‘South Africa gets in your blood’.
How right he was.
Some last pics
Here are some last pics from the many we took.
Our room at the Tala Private Game Reserve KwaZulu-Natal click to enlarge
Our 12m long room at the African Pride, Melrose Arch, J’burg, with its green and red lighting click to enlarge
The Queen Victoria Hotel was close to the waterfront which buzzed with life click to enlarge
These guys were great with their improvisation and rhythms click to enlarge
“The wheel on the front goes round and round’ click to enlarge
Traditional skills are still being used click to enlarge
The port and marina were so busy click to enlarge
Table Mountain was wearing its table cloth click to enlarge
The cloud disappeared… click to enlarge
…and window cleaners were suspended by ropes click to enlarge
Sandwiches, cakes, savouries, scones, creams, jams, breads and 'nibbles' click to enlarge
We indulged in afternoon tea at The Mount Nelson click to enlarge
Piers’ favourite click to enlarge
We stayed at the Granny Mouse Country Lodge for our last night in SA click to enlarge
Our room had a wood burning stove – great because it dropped to -3C overnight click to enlarge
Granny Mouse overlooks the valley and its river click to enlarge
The fog stayed hovering above the river click to enlarge
As the sun rose, it was -3C, frosty, and fog steamed off the river click to enlarge
A great sign by Reception click to enlarge
Water taps and corrugated iron made a novel water features click to enlarge
Nearby were the stunning 95m (310′) Howick Falls click to enlarge
Piers and Lin
Granny Mouse Country Lodge
…on temporary leave of absence from Play d’eau
Fleming 55
A picture postcard story of the wedding preparations.
The wedding venue, Acacia, in the Tala Private Game Reserve.
A beautiful thatched, wooden barn with a large decking area overlooking a waterhole, 150m away. The sun was bright and strong.
The grassed reception area. Wine and beer was kept cool in wheelbarrows click to enlarge
Welcome to the wedding venue click to enlarge
The ‘bridal aisle’ entrance to Acacia click to enlarge
The ceremony was held on the decking click to enlarge
Chairs were facing the waterhole and rhinos click to enlarge
The minister’s view click to enlarge
Nadine and Colleen prepare the tables click to enlarge
The staff helped as well click to enlarge
Amy’s sister, Dayna placed decorations in glass vases click to enlarge
The Manager in charge of the event checked everything so carefully click to enlarge
Rosie, Amy’s Godmother, with Amy click to enlarge
Nadine, Amy’s cousin, adding touches to decorations click to enlarge
Top table flowers and decorations click to enlarge
Orange was the theme click to enlarge
Brigitte, Amy’s aunt click to enlarge
Linda, Amy’s step-grandmother click to enlarge
The flowers were so gorgeous click to enlarge
Irene, Mark’s partner click to enlarge
Colleen, Amy’s aunt click to enlarge
Shelly, bridesmaid click to enlarge
Chairs were decorated with bows click to enlarge
Mr and Mrs Hippo click to enlarge
Toby, Brigitte’s partner click to enlarge
Rhinos were mud bathing click to enlarge
The Bridal Lodge… click to enlarge
…with a Vervet monkey scampering across the top click to enlarge
The evening sunset click to enlarge
The barman who looked after us all so well click to enlarge
The next day Mr and Mrs Tobias du Pré leave for their honeymoon click to enlarge
We took no photographs during the wedding, leaving that task to Simon Jones, the professional photographer and video team from Heartistic productions. When we receive our copies we’ll post some more.
Piers and Lin
Tala Private Game Reserve
…on temporary leave of absence from Play d’eau
Fleming 55
Toby and Amy exchange their vows click to enlargeThe day had arrived. The day Toby and Amy were to wed.
The Venue
The Tala Private Game Reserve was the chosen venue with its 3,000 hectares in KwaZulu-Natal, between Durban and Pietermaritzburg.
Its various single story accommodation lodges are scattered around the reserve with a central main reception and restaurant complex. There’s no tarmac here, just rough dirt tracks.
Animals include rhino, hippo, kudu, zebra, giraffe, impala, eland, monkeys and ostrich. Bird life is everywhere, some singing beautiful love songs whilst others make ghastly sounds that put crows to shame.
Preparations
The previous afternoon saw many of Amy’s extended family and Tala staff descend on Acacia, a large thatched timber barn standing on the side of a slight incline in front of a waterhole.Mr and Mrs du Pré with Mr and Mrs Tobias du Pré click to enlargeWhilst tables, chairs, linen, cutlery, flowers, sashes and labels were being lovingly placed inside the barn, seven rhinos were mud bathing (outside) in the waterhole 150m away whilst zebras strutted their stripes, impala jumped, and bored wildebeest just grunted.
Rather than tables being numbered, Amy had created cards with specific dates or comments, such as ’35 Flights’ – ‘the number of individual flights taken to see each other’.
Wedding Day
Right on cue, the sun rose just after 6am into yet another clear blue sky.
As we opened the veranda doors of our lodge, monkeys scampered across the lawns, jumped into trees and peeped from behind the trunks to see what we might be doing.
After a lazy breakfast, Piers took more photographs whilst Lin relaxed on the veranda.
By 3pm, Piers had donned his locally hired tails whilst Lin wore a beautiful special dress for the day. She looked so gorgeous.
We assembled on the decking in front of the barn and Ron the minister told us what was to happen. The rhino and other animals were still in attendance. It was almost surreal.
The Marriage
The stage was set click to enlargeToby was standing at the front when the bridal party appeared. Maid of Honour, bridesmaids, best man and groomsmen.
And then Amy, veiled and on her father’s arm, walked around the corner. So elegant, so poised.
Amy looked utterly beautiful in the most lovely white dress and long embroidered train. There were gasps followed by tears and hushed snuffles.
In front of guests, Ron and the rhinos, Toby and Amy said their vows looking intently into each others’ eyes. Ron’s address was a delight and thoroughly scriptural.
Mr and Mrs Tobias du Pré looked radiant and so, so happy. After years of long distance waiting, their dream had come true.
The Reception
Rose petals showered the couple as they made their way onto a grassed area to cut the cake and be toasted.Tables were identified by dates and explanations click to enlargeSitting at our tables, dinner was served. Mark, Amy’s father, spoke. His speech was the finest and most heartfelt we’d ever heard, a comment which was to be made to him many times that evening.
Justin, the best man, was hilarious.
We danced late into the evening. Eventually, at 11pm, Toby and Amy left, and the party slowly dispersed.
A truly stunning event, and one which the animals will describe for generations to come.
It had been a long wait for the couple. It had been worth it. Their prayers had been answered.
Piers and Lin
Tala Private Game Reserve
…on temporary leave of absence from Play d’eau
Fleming 55
Cloud, created by warm, humid air from the Indian Ocean being lifted over the mountains click to enlargeOnly three more sleeps until we see Toby and Amy again, and two extra until the wedding – excitement is growing!
Yet again, clear blue skies ruled the start of the day and the 37C temperature and low humidity was simply delightful.
Outeniqua Pass
We climbed into our silver Avis hire car at 11am and headed the 150 miles to Plettenberg Bay to cross the mountain range along the unbelievable Outeniqua Pass before joining the ‘Garden Route’.
As we climbed the pass we ascended into the cloud which was blowing in from the warm seas of the Indian Ocean. Descending to the seaward side the cloud stayed with us to the Tsala Tree Top Lodge. It felt cold. It was. Pullovers came to the fore.
For those who like meteorology, the cloud is created by the Foehn effect.
Tsala Tree Top Lodge
We were about to enter the stunning Outeniqua Pass click to enlargeTsala Tree Top Lodge is exactly as described on the tin being built in the tree tops on one side of a valley. I say valley but it’s more like a gorge.
Individual tree top villas have a lounge, bedroom, bathroom, terrace and small infinity plunge pool, all supported on long stilts from the ground, with wooden walk ways to connect to the main building.
Again, being the end of the summer season there were few guests. We felt spoiled with the staff only there for us.
Toby and Amy’s wedding
We had three nights at Tsala and spent the days exploring the beautiful Plettenberg Bay area. Now it was time to head for Toby and Amy’s wedding to fulfil the reason we had come to South Africa.
A drive to Port Elizabeth, an airplane to Durban and another drive along severely pot-holed country roads through hectare upon hectare of sugar cane brought us to Amy’s father’s house in Wartberg.The cloud began to surround us as we climbed the pass click to enlargeWe pulled into the driveway to find Toby and Amy waiting for us.
Such happy days.
Next post
The next post will concentrate on Toby and Amy’s wedding…
Piers and Lin
Wartberg
…on temporary leave of absence from Play d’eau
Fleming 55
With the cloud came lower termperatures click to enlarge
You can see the wiggly pass we’d just driven click to enlarge
Plettenberg Bay suddenly appeared click to enlarge
The entrance to Tsala Tree Tops Lodge click to enlarge
Walkways through the trees connected the villas click to enlarge
The final steps to our tree top villa click to enlarge
Our patio, plunge pool and lounge click to enlarge
Zig-zag walkways were everywhere click to enlarge
Our balcony overlooked the gorge click to enlarge
Our lounge, complete with wood burning stove click to enlarge
What a bathroom! click to enlarge
The bedroom had a full size glass wall overlooking the gorge click to enlarge
One could take coffee (tea for Lin) from the balcony click to enlarge
We took meals in the tree top dining room click to enlarge
We started our drive but we soon had to keep stopping for photos click to enlargeAfter our two nights at the Rosendal Winery, the drive to Altes Landhaus (Schoemanschoek, Oudtshoorn) was greater in distance and greater in beauty if the latter was at all possible.
The enormity of the endless, dry, arid mountain ranges, the unusual variety of colours, the ostriches, baboons and other animals we couldn’t identify, was captivating.
Altes Landhaus
We were staying in another boutique hotel, the Altes Landhaus, a large Victorian colonial style farmer’s ranch, beautifully restored and with gardens full of intense colours.
Everywhere in this ranch was huge including our room. I say room yet it was really three rooms. The bedroom, lounge and bathroom were all of equal size.
A nice touch was a decanter of sherry resting on a side table to refresh us.
Peace
The browny-red colours reminded us of Devon soil click to enlargeBoth Rosendal and Altes have been so peaceful. It’s Autumn so guests are few; both hotels are in the middle of nowhere so there’s no noise apart from crickets, toads, tree frogs, endless bird song much of which is heard on David Attenborough’s documentaries, and the dinner gong.
For the next two nights we have a rest from fine dining and calories and plan the next stage of our journey – to Plettenberg Bay before setting course for Toby and Amy’s wedding in the Tala Private Game Reserve.
We’re so excited. We want to press the time accelerator.
Piers and Lin
Altes Landhaus
…on temporary leave of absence from Play d’eau
Fleming 55
Beaucette Marina
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
Different rock formations everywhere click to enlarge
The ranges rolled on for miles into the distance click to enlarge
So hot, so dry, yet animals thrive here click to enlarge
By now we are nearing our destination click to enlarge
We arrive at Altes Landhaus click to enlarge
Bougainvillea lined the 100m driveway click to enlarge
Alternating red and white, a wall of colour was created click to enlarge
A Rosendal Merlot click to enlargeWe drove the three hour journey across mountains, through gorges and along tightly circuitous passes in our Avis hire car to the gorgeous Rosendal Winery, a tiny eight room ‘boutique’ hotel in the middle of nowhere between Roberston and Ashton.
Blue skies
Although it’s Autumn, we’ve had the most wonderful weather since we arrived. It’s been in the mid-thirties centigrade with cloudless blue skies and gentle breezes to keep us cool.
Chef David
Dinner that evening was completely unexpected. Not that we were given dinner, but that its quality was simply outstanding.
I began asking questions to our waitress who told us the chef was her husband, and that he’d worked in many top restaurants in the UK and Europe.Rosendal Winery and Wellness Centre click to enlarge‘Where in the UK?’ I asked. ‘The Vineyard at Stockcross,’ came the reply. ‘But that was our local restaurant,’ I replied. ‘When was he there?’
It transpired that Chef David was there from the very start of the Vinyard having come from the Savoy Grill and other one and two Michelin Star kitchens before that. No wonder the food was delectable.
Two nights
With two nights at Rosendal, we tasted (and drank) their wines, ate sumptuously, and subjected ourselves to various Spa treatments. Various ‘pink’ treatments for Lin and ‘muscle bashing’ massages for Piers. He ached the next day.
The evenings were spent watching vivid, shot silk sunsets whilst toads croaked, crickets chirruped, and birds sang their lullabies.
The Last Supper
Rosendal’s infinity swimming poolChef David came to see us to discuss our last supper at Rosendal. We chose the tasting menu, menu Dégustation, but he insisted on making some changes given various courses we’d had previously.
It was divine. Eating on the veranda of a small boutique hotel in the middle of nowhere mountains, watching another sunset.
Bliss.
Piers and Lin
Rosendal Winery and Wellness Centre
…on temporary leave of absence from Play d’eau
Fleming 55
Beaucette Marina
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
The drive across the mountains was simply breathtaking click to enlarge
Gorges and passes never ending click to enalrge
So majestic, mile after mile click to enlarge
One hundred miles of stunning scenery click to enlarge
One of Rosendal white wines click to enlarge
You can eat in Rosendal’s cellars click to enlarge
A weaver bird builds his nest (taken from 150m away) click to enlarge
Langer township’s African Gospel Church click to enalrgeWe had no idea how much today’s tour of a township, District 6 and Robben Island, was going to affect us.
Township
Our guide warned us that we may find this tour somewhat gruelling. He was right. So very right.
Langer is a township, a mass of cheap one and two story concrete buildings where blacks were settled when being displaced from land which whites claimed for themselves.
Typically, a two small room building is now occupied by six people. One room for sleeping, the other serving as a kitchen and day room. Communal toilets serve many buildings. Running water and electricity is in many cases, a bonus.
We felt uncomfortable. Here was utter poverty and in their eyes we were white rich tourists looking at them and their environment. But we were told again and again not to feel bad since a proportion of the tour fees went to help the township.Pottery is taught and the results are sold click to enlargeOn the plus side, projects were underway where manual skills are taught and developed, and schools have sprung up. In one of them, 30 gorgeous, excitable three year olds sang to us. Their happy innocent, eager eyes and untainted souls made us wonder where they’d be in years to come. Lin and I wept.
We sang ‘The wheels on the bus go round and round’ to them as they squealed with delight.
There are no state hand-outs. The people of UK have no concept of poverty or the poverty line.
District 6
Moving to District 6 we first visited the museum where an ex-prisoner, originally incarcerated and beaten for spreading anti-government propaganda, showed us around, explaining what happened not only to the area, but to his family and hundreds of others.The sand paintings were really beautiful click to enlargePhotographs and newspaper articles detailed the devastation of what happened.
Robben Island
By now, our minds were emotionally disoriented. I can’t think of a better term. Yet the hour and a half boat ride to Robben Island did nothing to prepare us for the next stage of our tour.
Another black ex-prisoner who’d also been beaten and tortured and held in the same prison block as Nelson Mandela, greeted us. Apparently, blacks could be imprisoned and kept without trial for as long as the authorities wanted. No time limits applied.
Dog kennels were twice the size of prison cells.
Although we were encouraged to take photographs of the prison and especially the tiny cell where Mandela was held, I couldn’t. I felt that if I did, I’d somehow be trivialising something of untold value that should be held just as it was and not consigned to digital format.
Revenge or Reconciliation?
Part of a giraffe sand painting click to enlargeThe language we kept hearing from those who suffered for so many years was common. ‘Reconciliation, not retribution or revenge, only reconciliation.’
What a great and inspired leader Nelson Mandela was. Without him, one dreads to imagine the blood bath that would have undoubtedly happened.
Who can possibly follow in his footsteps?
Leaving Robben Island
Leaving the small Robben Island harbour, we were astounded by the thousands of cormorants that lined the breakwater.
Maybe one cormorant for each prisoner that perished here, I wondered.
Piers and LinThousands of cormorants lined Robben Island’s breakwater. One per prisoner? click to enlargeMount Nelson Hotel
…on temporary leave of absence fromPlay d’eau
Fleming 55
Beaucette Marina
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
A Cape Seal swims lazily around the harbour click to enlargeOur second day in Cape Town is another tightly packed tour. We’ll visit Hout Bay, the Cape of Good Hope, Cape Point, a colony of penguins at Boulder Bay, and the Botanical Gardens.
Hout bay
No-one can believe the weather! Clear, deep blue skies with a baking hot sun. We know the Mount Nelson has a reputation for being able to arrange anything, but this goes way beyond expectations.
After another great tropical fruit breakfast and a large cup of fresh strong black coffee (tea for Lin), our tour guide picks us up at 8.20am.
Driving south along the west coast, we stop initially at Hout Bay Harbour where some Cape Seals are swimming around, lazily.
Continuing south, I see a wide bank of sea fog in the distance. ‘Look Lin. Sea fog, and it will soon be on us.’ Loving meteorology, I find this far more exciting than being able to admire the seascape.Hout Bay harbour click to enlarge
Controlled Burn
A mile or so before the Cape of Good Hope we see smoke rising high in the distance. This isn’t seafog, it’s smoke which in turn means fire. A brush fire? Thankfully no. As we pass by, signs declare a controlled burn’s in progress. There are many firemen keeping it in check.
But it’s a hot day and the breeze is increasing.
Cape of Good Hope
Arriving at the Cape of Good Hope the first thin wisps of sea fog are around us. We stop to take photos. From the Cape of Good Hope we drive to Cape Point. Behind us, we can see the smoke is more dense and the sky is dark.
Cape Point
A bank of sea fog approaches the coast click to enlarge
We arrive at Cape Point as the sea fog reduces visibility to a few hundred metres. No views. Is it disappointing? Not at all.
Instead our imaginations run riot at the thought of sailors battling their tall masted ships with torn sails against violent storms, whilst laden with precious far eastern spices and hoping beyond hope they wouldn’t be driven onto the rocks to face certain death and join countless others.
Uncontrolled?
Returning, we have to drive past the fire. There’s no doubt the fire is spreading. The flames are more extensive. A fire engine races past with its siren wailing (wobbling would be a better description) and more trucks with more firemen.
The traffic stops and is backed up ahead of us. We slow and stop and it’s not long before the smell of smoke is in the mini-bus, maybe because I’ve opened the side window and am hanging out taking photos.
Smoke rises in the distance click to enlargeWhilst I’m half out of the window I hear the unmistakable ‘wop, wop’ of helicopter blades. It arrives carrying a huge water bladder. It drops its load over the fire close to the road and flies off.
We’re on the move again, the water having sufficiently doused the flames to allow us to pass.
How exciting this trip is becoming!
Penguins
We even have time to visit a penguin sanctuary at Boulders Bay.
What great little fellows these little African (Jackass) Penguins are, and how strange to see penguins on a hot beach. Where’s the snow and ice?
The sanctuary has boarded and railed walkways to separate visitors from the colony. It’s fun hearing them speak (the penguins, not the visitors). They ‘grunt’. And when they start grunting in unison they sound like donkeys braying – hence their colloquial name of ‘Jackass’ Penguins.
We pass close to the ‘controlled burn’ click to enlarge
Botanical Gardens
It’s been a long day, and we end it with a visit to the Cape’s Botanical Gardens. Although Autumn, there were still a few flowers in full bloom.
What must these hectares crammed with species from all over the world look like in Spring?
Piers and Lin
Mount Nelson Hotel, Cape Town
…on temporary leave of absence from Play d’eau
Fleming 55
Beaucette Marina
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
The sea fog bank reaches the coast… click to enlarge
…and starts to engulf the area… click to enlarge
..and starts pouring through the gap in the hills and over the town click to enlarge
Yes, we were there but not in Play d’eau click to enlarge
By now, the smoke was dense and the fire extensive click to enlarge
Traffic was stopped soon after passing these fires click to enlarge
A fire engine raced by. The air was thick with smoke click to enlarge
A helicopter arrived and dumped water… click to enlarge
…and flew off for a refill click to enlarge
With the traffic moving again, we looked back click to enlarge
Table Mountain from our room at the Mount Nelson click to enlargeAs you know, we’re in South Africa to be with our son, Toby, for his marriage to Amy. And what a great excuse to have a holiday as well.
Flight problems ex-Dubai
Late in the evening of April 5, we flew from Amsterdam to Cape Town on Emirates via Dubai. But after take-off from Dubai we levelled at 10,000 feet and flew north west out to sea and began circling. Strange, we should have been going south.
I was about to say something to Lin, when the Captain announced, ‘Ladies and Gentlemen, unfortunately, the undercarriage will not retract so we have to return to Dubai.’
Boring…
After dumping fuel to reduce weight, we landed, disembarked, ate lunch and had a four hour delay whilst another A340 was prepared. This time, the undercarriage came up.
Cape Town
Cape Town with Table Mountain behind taken from the boat that took us to the infamous Robben Island click to enlargeWe arrived at our hotel, the Mount Nelson, at 2330 local, somewhat tired. We’d been up almost forty hours.
With six hours sleep, we were up and eating a sumptuous al fresco breakfast under the veranda in this equally sumptuous colonial-style hotel. The sun was already roasting hot and at 0800 we jumped in a mini-bus for our first guided tour – the City and Table Mountain.
Unusually for this autumnal time of year, the skies are clear, the sun is hot with temperatures in the mid-thirties. How perfect is that?
Table Mountain
Table Mountain is breathtaking. No other word can describe this seventh natural wonder of nature.
The Swiss designed and installed cable car whisked us 765m (2,510 feet) up to the top whilst we stood on its slowly revolving floor enabling everyone in the car to have an equal view.
On top of the mountain we saw some guineapig lookalikes, locally called Dassies, but in reality, Rock Hyrax. Is the plural Hyrices as in index and indices, we wondered?Dassies roam the top of Table Mountain click to enlargeAn American lady was cooing over one whilst trying to reach out to stroke it. ‘Oh how simply awesome. So sweet. I really must have one,’ she squealed. After a few moments I said to her, ‘You, know, I’ve been told they are far better rare rather than well done.’
‘Uh-huh,’ came the response before my words had fully settled in, followed by, ‘Oh that’s dreadful. How horrid.’ I could hardly prevent smiling whilst I added, ‘It’s best to keep back a bit, you know. They spit poison.’
By now, obviously confused, and with a furrowed brow, she backed off. Looking at me questioningly, she murmured a weak, ‘Thank you,’ and disappeared.
We wonder just how far this rumour will spread.
Afternoon
Having descended, we visited to the 1679 Castle of Good Hope which protects the Governor’s Residence.
Exhausted, but exhilarated by the sheer beauty of Cape Town and its surroundings, we return to the ‘Pink Lady’ and dined in its beautiful Planet restaurant.
Piers and Lin
Mount Nelson Hotel, Cape Town
…on temporary leave of absence from Play d’eau
Fleming 55
Beaucette Marina
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
It’s 765m to the top… click to enlarge
…and 765m down click to enlarge
The Atlantic ocean is to the west and south click to enlarge
The views are simply stunning click to enlarge
You cannot tire of the views click to enlarge
Looking to the north along the ridge click to enlarge
If you really want you can opt to abseil down click to enlarge
Piers didn’t click to enlarge
The hour we had gazing was far too little click to enlarge
Cape Town with Robben Island in the distance click to enlarge
Resident Egyptian geese in the Castle of Good Hope Fort click to enlarge
Papa Goose follows behind making very loud ‘goose warning noises’ click to enlarge
The Governor’s Residence within the Castle of Good Hope click to enlarge
The Governor’s entrance hallway click to enlarge
The dining room seats over 100 guests click to enlarge
After a long day we arrive at the impressive arches to the Mount Nelson’s driveway click to enlarge
The Mount Nelson’s long and imposing driveway click to enlarge
We arrive back at the Mount Nelson click to enlarge
The glorious wing where we ate al fresco overlooking the pool click to enlarge
These were the voyages of Piers and Lin du Pré aboard their Fleming 55
