This pigeon rested on Play d’eau for ten hours gathering its strength before flying off click to enlargeHi Everyone.
We are about to head for the Brest peninsula to take advantage of the neap tides. This will involve us travelling from La Roche Bernard via Port Louis (Lorient), Port La Foret, Camaret and L’Aber Wrac’h, in the next few days.
Of course, if the weather and sea state prevent this happening, we’ll have plenty of time to update the site.
Hence, if there are no posts please forgive us. There’re many sea miles to cover with little time off, leaving even less time for the fun of updating the website.
However, as soon as we can, we will resume normal service.
Piers and Lin
From the Saloon of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
When this year began we had no idea some of the ‘firsts’ that would happen.Lin and our four boys. They won’t tell us the joke they’re sharing…. click to enlargeIn October 2012 we spent a week in Guernsey making sure we knew the practical details surrounding our move to the island in March 2013 where we’d live on Play d’eau in the privately owned Beaucette Marina.
The first first – Furniture
We could store all our furniture in Guernsey but would it fit when we bought a house? Instead, the decision was made (not easy) to keep only those pieces that were family ‘heirlooms’ or had ‘special reasons’. The rest could either be sold or given to our sons. Their choices and requests were mostly able to be met and thankfully there was no falling out over who had what!
So, Jan 22 2013 saw most of our furniture being collected to be sold at auction. The rest was to go to long term store in Guernsey.
We slept on our mattress on the floor; we started married life that way but on a different mattress, I hasten to add! It was not as easy to get off the floor to get out of bed, age was creeping up on us. Our garden tables and chairs were used indoors and one sofa was kept for comfortable sitting.
We culled our bits and pieces into what we needed and could use on the boat now, what we would use later, and gave the rest to charity shops or sold. We became ebay masters! The remainder would go into short term storage in Guernsey where we could access them, if necessary.
I found I had squirrelled away loads of toiletries when they had been on special offer – they will keep us going until at least next year!
Second first – Houseless
We had been renting a house in Chetnole, near Yeovil, since selling Orchard Gate in Nov 2011. Now we had to vacate and clean the rental property so moved into a holiday let at the other end of the village for a week. We left this on 9 March 2013.
Third first – the Fox
I took the first car (our little Fox) to Guernsey at the beginning of March 2013, taking the fast ferry from Poole and back later that day for Piers to collect me.
Fourth first – Snow
We ‘first’ departed the UK on 9 March 2013. Piers had to go to USA so he flew back the next day leaving me to hold the fort. The following day saw the island assailed by a blizzard. The wind was gale force north-east and the snow was horizontal. It was exciting yet daunting. Guernsey had not had such bad weather for over 50 years and the airport was closed for 2½ days.
Fifth first – Cessation
We are no longer employed. Piers had started Onaphone in 1979 making his first sale the next year. Later, the company name changed to du Pré plc. It was really strange being cessated by our own company! Our last day of employment was 21 March 2013.
Sixth first – Guernsey
It was 22 March 2013 and finally we arrived in Guernsey to live on the boat. The longest time we had holidayed on her in one stretch was 10 weeks in 2010. Now to live on her with our belongings and in the winter as well! Guernsey self-store has been brilliant for those things of which we have no immediate need.
Seventh first – A Fiancée
Toby, our youngest son, proposed to and was accepted by his girlfriend Amy. He did ask Mark, Amy’s dad, for permission, beforehand. They will marry in South Africa next April.
Eighth first – Piers was officially old
Piers was 65! We had a huge gathering of all the family in May – the weather was very good to us and brilliant memories will be cherished.
Ninth first – Exploration
We have been away exploring since June 18 and ventured further south than ever before. We reached Rochefort which is up the river Charente (south of La Rochelle) and a lovely place to visit. From there, we’ve started the return back north, visiting places we missed on the way down.
Tenth first – Another Fiancée
Adam, our third son, proposed to, and was accepted by Perdita. Wow, two future daughters-in-law in 4 months. So exciting for us all. How come this all happens when we are not in the UK?
We still have another 4 months of this year. How many more ‘firsts’ are there waiting for us?
Lin
From the Saloon of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
The falling spring tide would bring today’s special challenges. The gorgeous 23m yacht Copihue left Pornic half an hour before us click to enlarge
La Vilaine River
La Roche Bernard is some 10nm up the beautiful La Vilaine river. Just beyond midway is the Arzal lock and the 1400 écluse would be perfect – if the planning allowed it.
The nav plan
The first challenge was the time to leave Pornic before the spring tide had fallen to a level where the silted marina approach channel would be too shallow for our safe exit to the Baie de Bourgneuf.
The second was the mouth of La Vilaine which has sand bar 2nm long at its ‘embouchure’ reducing depth only 0.5m above chart datum.
Planning showed that if we left Pornic as the latest safe time and kept our speed to 7kts (using one engine only to save servicing time) we’d arrive at the mouth to La Vilaine as the tide was on the rise giving us an extra 1.5m above chart datum. Adding that to the chart’s 0.5m would give 2m. Since Play d’eau’s draft is 1.52m, she’d have 48cms under her keel.We motored through a shoal (a wobble?) of these huge 2′ diameter jelly fish click to enlargeWell, that was the theory which we knew would be subject to many factors such as additional silting, atmospheric pressure, wind effect and so on, but we could test this as we approached the mouth by monitoring chart soundings against the depth sounder. Dead slow at this point just in case.
The weather
A NE F3, clear skies and excellent visibility greeted us when we woke at 0630. Even if the wind had been much stronger it wouldn’t have mattered since the land would be there to protect us.
Preparation included Lin going to the Capitainerie to use their wi-fi (wee-fee) to download emails only to find the Capitainerie wasn’t open but the laundry was. Perching the laptop on the washing machine – ‘le wee-fee marshed’ as they say in French.
The journey
Lin took Play d’eau off her berth at our ETD of 0754 and manoeuvred her towards the entrance. A sharp turn to starboard took us into the approach channel, the depth was just right, and we were into the Baie de Bourgneuf.Approaching Arzal lock, about half way from the sea to La Roche Bernard click to enlargeTravelling close to the Jade Coast our journey took us past the Pointe de St Caldas and into the Grande Rade de La Loire.
Crossing the approach channel to St Nazaire Lin was reminded of her Dad’s involvement on the raid on the lock gates of the Normandie dry dock in WW2. He was on the hunter destroyer, HMS Atherstone, and his account of the Atherstone’s involvement differs significantly from that in the text books….he lived to tell the tale and have five children, one of which, of course, was Lin.
From Point du Croisic with its shoal of jelly fish (or is it a ‘wobble’?) to Piriac-sur-Mer, we passed the small bird sanctuary and mussel farms of Île Dumet to port before heading for the mouth of La Vilaine.
The whole journey was so, so pretty.
’Bonjour La Vilaine’
At her shallowest point, La Vilaine’s sand bar gave us 1m clearance below Play d’eau’s keel. We thanked her.We entered the Arzal lock stopping before the lifting bridge took our mast off! click to enlargeLa Vilaine is a beautiful river. Leaving the mussel farms behind and the dark green tree lined banks ahead, we wove our way towards the lock at Arzal.
Arzal Lock
The timing worked. The lock was open as we approached and the lights were green. We entered, stopping before the road bridge which spanned the lock. We looped the hanging chains with our warps and a few minutes later we began the 2m rise.
Given Play d’eau’s air draft, the lifting bridge was raised and we exited.
Arriving
The next 4nm to La Roche Bernard reminded us of the beauty of La Sein when we cruised to Paris in Play d’eau in 2004. For sake of repeating ourselves, the river’s beauty has to be seen to be believed. The lifting bridge had to be raised before we were able to exit the lock click to enlargeGiven our length we had to moor on the visitor’s pontoon which itself is moored in the river. Access to the shore is by a small dory and pulling a rope on a pulley system. The 200m journey takes for ever, is hugely exhausting but the macho in a chap prevents fatigue from showing.
The tecky details
Departed Pornic – 0754
Arrived Arzal lock – 1355
Departed Arzal lock – 1415
Arrived La Roche Bernard – 1448
Time on passage – 6hr 54min
Total planned distance – 45.8nm
Tides: Spring
Longest leg – 11.9nm from SE Lambarde SCM to Pointe du Croisic
Tech issues – nil
Incidents – nil
Navigational info: La Vilaine carries considerable amounts of silt, mainly mud. The marker buoys are moved often to reflect this, and the chart bears no relation to reality.
Piers and Lin
From the Nav Table of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.La Vilaine river between Arzal and La Roche Bernard click to enlarge
La Vilaine river between Arzal and La Roche Bernard click to enlargeLa Vilaine river between Arzal and La Roche Bernard click to enlargeVedettes ply La Vilaine click to enlargeThere are some lovely houses on La Vilaine click to enlargeThe dory links the pontoon with the shore. You pull on the rope and pull yourself along – exhausting! click to enlarge
Yacht Aquitaine (Chris and Sue) were our hosts click to enlargeI confess that far too much Breton cider and Pastis was consumed and far too many olives fresh from the buzzing farmers’ market that morning; black in herbs and green in pesto. We had been invited for drinks by retired Chris and Sue of Aquitaine, a British yacht moored three places along the pontoon from us, together with their friends who were cruising in company with them on Lady Day.
Chris and Sue keep Aquitaine close by at La Roche Bernard on the La Vilaine river. Having cruised the area extensively for many years I took advantage of their local knowledge.
The plan takes shape
Taking Chris’ advice that we needed to see the off-lying islands before the annual French swarm begins on 14 July, we planned to go straight to Port Joinville on the Île d’Yeu and stay for a few days or more before returning to the mainland. A telephone call to the Harbour Master secured a mooring and the plan came together.The Kerino swing bridge opened, three greens came on and we were off click to enlargeThe forecast promised a week of light NE’ly winds, high temperatures and clear skies from an Azores high of 1028mb. In honour, we erected the flybridge bimini cover to protect us from the impending rays.
The nav plan
The only pinch point for the route was the need to be at Vannes’ Kerino swing bridge at 0730, the morning’s only opening.
The Journey
Starting grey and overcast, by midday the forecasters were right. The clear blue sky had appeared and it was hot, very hot.
A small queue of boats waited for the 0730 Kerino swing bridge. As we exited into the narrow channel we came head to head with a coaster about to moor at the small commercial dock. Pulling as far over to the side of the channel as we dared the coaster slid by. Its skipper made a point of thanking us. Nice one.We edged to the left of the narrow channel to make way for this coaster click to enlargeThe ebb tide carried us all the way to the mouth of the Golfe averaging an extra 2kts which peaked at 5½kts close to the Grand Mouton.
Apart from one really silly fisherman in his small boat being intent on preventing a British boat from overtaking him by intentionally weaving to and fro in front of us, the ten mile journey through the Golfe was uneventful. My finger itched towards the Kahlenbergs but with discretion being the better part of valour I restrained myself, waited my time, attacked and won.
Passing close to the many reefs and islands which extend to the SE of Presq’ile de Quiberon, we espied some lovely places to anchor, especially the beach on the east of Hoedic. We marked map.
From Presq’ile to Île d’Yeu, we had a calm open Atlantic sea, its gentle swell, and a hot sun. It was lovely in the shade under the bimini.
Arriving
The tide was ebbing fast by the Grand Mouton beacon click to enlargeÎle d’Yeu slowly appeared out of the haze seven hours after leaving Vannes and we pulled into the Port Joinville marina just ahead of schedule and the Harbour Master guided us to our berth. Perfect.
The tecky details
0720 FST – Departed Vannes
1558 – Arrived Port Joinville
Planned distance – 67nm
Longest leg – 29.1nm – Sud Banc Guerande SCM to Port Joinville WP
Tech issues – nil
Piers and Lin
from the Pilot House of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
Lin at the flybridge helm under the bimini for shade from a very hot sun click to enlargePlay d’eau’s wake en route to Ile d’Yeu click to enlarge
The walled town of Vannes click to enlarge
Founded by the Romans in 56 BC, Julius Caesar went on to conquer the area known as Brittany.
Throughout the third century, fortified walls were built around the town to protect it from ‘barbaric tribes’.
Between 1341 and 1364 wars of succession were fought between two families claiming the title Duke of Brittany, which was eventually won by Jean IV.
The union with France
Anne de Bretagne was the last duchess of Brittany, dying in 1514. The demise of Brittany was sealed when her daughter, Claude, married Francois d’Angouleme, the future king of France.
In 1532 Francois 1st stayed in Vannes and negotiated the Treaty of Vannes proclaiming the ‘perpetual union of the Country and Duchy of Brittany with the Kingdom and Crown of France’.
Although Brittany was still permitted to control taxes and maintain its own army, in practice its destiny lay in French hands. The title Duke of Brittany became obsolete, the region’s assets were stripped and its autonomy eroded.
Today, many Bretons today do not ‘officially’ recognise Brittany as part of France and would far prefer to return to self-rule.
Picture post cards of Vannes
The St Vincent town gate which faces the marina click to enlarge
Castle De L’Hermine which housed the Brittany Parliament click to enlarge
The glorious gardens of the Castle De L’Hermine click to enlarge
The Captain of the Guard’s residence click to enlarge
The Parliament’s Wash Houses click to enlarge
You just feel these buildings are tipping over click to enlarge
Party creations from a sweet shop called Glup’s click to enlarge
The woodwork structure is just beautiful click to enlarge
Gorgeous ancient buildings abound in the walled town click to enlarge
So many alley-ways with overhanging buildings click to enlarge
Piers and Lin
from the Saloon of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
Many colourful trawlers fish the Baie de Quiberon with seagulls hitching rides waiting from breakfast click to enlarge
Our next port of call, the walled town of Vannes, is at the top of the beautiful Golfe du Morbihan. The Breton word Morbihan means Little Sea, an apt description given it covers over 100 square kilometres (approx. 12,000 hectares), with more than 40 islands, the largest of which is the Île aux Moines with its 7km coastline.
The inland sea of the Golfe du Morbihan is separated from the Atlantic by a narrow strait through which 400 million cubic metres of salt water pour at each high tide.
The nav plan
The pinch points start at the narrow strait entrance to the Golfe where tidal flows create currents of over 4kts. These become more pronounced as you pick your way through the islands towards Vannes, in one place exceeding 9kts. Bear in mind Play d’eau cruises at 8kts so we could easily find ourselves going backwards!
The ‘Sandbanks of Poole’ equivalent to the Golfe du Morbihan click to enlarge
We planned to leave Port Haliguen so we’d arrive at Port Navalo, the entrance to the Golfe, at its high tide to be carried on its peak to Vannes. In practice, it gave us an unexpected additional 2kts all the way.
The Golfe is a favourite yachting area for thousands of boats. Couple this with fast Vedettes ferrying tourists, and it becomes a challenge to play boats against Vedettes against tides against the shallow sea!
Arriving
Access to Vannes is through a swing bridge which only opens at specific times. For us, this meant being at the bridge at 1530.
After three exiting yachts we went through and up a short canal to Vannes to berth.
Tecky details
The Vedettes don’t take prisoners. Travelling fast, they pass close and make large wakes click to enlarge
1242hrs FST – Departed Port Haliguen
1542hrs FST – Arrived Vannes
Planned distance – 19.3nm
Longest leg – 9.8nm of pilotage in the Golfe
Tech problems – nil
Piers and Lin
from the Pilot House of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
A cold, grey sky greeted us as we emerged from our cabin and raised the blinds in the saloon to view the outside world. Whilst Lin went to fetch fresh croissants (a pink job) I busied myself with engine and nav checks (a blue job). Lin at the helm, not always doing a pink job click to enlarge
Leaving Port La Forêt
Casting off at 0830, we motored gently from the sleepy marina along the narrow half mile channel to the open sea where we began dodging the many poorly marked lobster pots that seem to litter the Brittany coast.
Lin brought the La Foret Fouesnant croissants and fresh coffee to the pilot house for breakfast and we were soon set up for the six hour passage to Port Haliguen, a small marina and fishing port on the south east side of Presqu’ile de Quiberon some fifty miles to the south west.
The nav plan
There are no real pinch points along the route today, but there’s one part worth mentioning.
Towards the end of our journey we pass to the south of Presqu’ile de Quiberon where we need to thread our way through the many reefs and islands which extend fourteen miles to the south west.Threading our way through the reefs, we passed within 50m of this outcrop click to enlargeThe track we take through this area will depend on the sea state at the time and how comfy we feel about cutting corners and threading our way thought the rocks!
Arriving
Just as we rounded Presqu’ile, the sun came out in her full glory and turned a grey day into a great day.
Given the sea state was completely calm, we chose the shortest of short cuts through the reefs where the tide, at times was running at 4 knots against us.
The Harbour Master was waiting for us in his RIB and led us to our berth. Would you believe, it had one of those pesky water connectors we’d first encountered at Camaret. The receptionist at the Capitainerie couldn’t have been more helpful. In answer to our first question she responded, ‘Oui, of course there’s Wi-Fi and here’s the code.’This is the adaptor required for the new style water outlets being installed in many French marinas click to enlargeIn answer to our second question, she replied, ‘The Chandlery is closed and there’s nowhere else to get the adaptor. But wait a moment.’ Picking up her radio she called another of the marina staff and spoke in rapid fire French. All I understood was ‘Play d’eau‘.
As we returned to Play d’eau someone asked, ‘Monsieur Play d’eau?’. ‘Oui’. ‘The Capitainerie asked me to give you this adaptor, with our compliments’.
So now we are the proud owners of the elusive adaptor!
Tecky details
0830hrs FST – Departed Port La Forêt
1453hrs FST – Port Haliguen
Planned distance – 51.1nm
Longest leg – 38.1nm, Pointe de Trévignon to Basse du Chanel SCM
Tech problems – a very slight oil leak from the aft of the stbd motor. Needs investigation Note: that the previous leg’s nav kit issues were all resolved with a re-boot. The question remains, what happened?
Piers and Lin
from the Pilot House of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
A hot sun in a clear blue sky with a cool breeze and a sea mist rolling up the estuary, set the scene for the Festival of Jazz at the bandstand on the last day of our extended visit to Port La Forêt. The six jazz musicians of the Cornouaille Jazz Band on the bandstand at Port La Forêt click to enlarge
…and they played
With the crowd ready and waiting, the Cornouaille Jazz Band’s six musicians and vocalist assembled their various amplifiers and instruments and put their heart and soul into playing blues, trad, and Chocolat ‘River Rat’ syncopations, using their array of saxophones, trumpet, clarinet, banjo, guitar, bass guitar, drums, and the occasional voice.
After two hours of fun the crowd didn’t want them to stop. ‘Encore, encore!’
We loved it.
So pleased we stayed that extra time at Port La Forêt.
Au revoir Port La Forêt
We’ve had a ball here.
Glorious walks, a beautiful local village, an outrageous Creperie, excellent quaffable cider, fresh croissants and Petit Moulé loaves from a Boulongerie that cares for perfection, swooping terns ducking and diving to snatch unwary fish for supper and to top it all off, Jazz on the Bandstand with the Cornouaille Jazz Band.
Au revoir Port la Forêt. À la prochaine.
Piers and Lin
from the Saloon of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
The Trumpeter, who played and played and played click to enlarge
The vocalist sang ‘Let my people go’ (in French, of course) click to enlarge
The bass guitarist click to enlarge
Proficient on banjo and guitar (sounded just like Johnny Depp) click to enlarge
The clarinetist played clarinet and sax click to enlarge
The clarinettist plays his preferred instrument click to enlarge
The drummer never had a break click to enlarge
Always waiting for his big moment to go crazy! click to enlarge
The bass sax was almost as tall as the player click to enlarge
The saxophonist with his array of saxaphones click to enlarge
The bass guitarist with one of the sax players in the background click to enlarge
The Trumpeter, my point of contact click to enlarge
The eccentric Creperie Quartier d’été, with equally eccentric and delicious crepes click to enlargeBy now you’ve probably gathered we like it at Port La Forêt. So much so, that instead of moving on after two days we’re staying until next Monday or thereabouts.
Why are we staying on?
So many reasons.
The village (or is it a tiny town?) of La Forêt-Fouesnant is a lovely half mile walk away around a lake. Counter-clockwise, you walk by the forest; clockwise, you walk on the small road by lovely houses and the Crêperie Quartier d’été with its wonderfully eccentric owner just waiting to delight you with his crêpes and Fouesnant cidre served Breton style in pottery cups.
Jazz on the band stand
Behind our pontoon and hidden by trees is an old fashioned bandstand. Two days ago, we heard a small jazz band practising. I went to investigate – with my camera. The four musicians played trumpet, bass guitar, banjo and sax and rather than mind me taking pics they asked me to come on stage to take more!Members of the Cornouaille Jazz Band were practising on the bandstand ready for Sunday’s concert (lick to enlarge)If you’ve seen the film Chocolat with Johnny Depp the type of jazz they were playing was very similar to that played by the River Rats – syncopated, catchy, innocent and fun.
I learned they were some of the members of the Cornouaille Jazz Band, practising for Sunday’s 4pm concert and they insisted I returned to take even more photos! I will, but I must learn how to take good pics which have a strong backlight without using flash. Back to the new camera’s manual.
La Forêt-Fouesnant’s Boulangerie
Now here’s a treat. The Boulangerie is also a Patisserie and a Chocolaterie, with chefs that delight in precision cooking. It’s hard not putting on weight just by looking.
La Forêt-Fouesnant’s École des Chefs
Would you believe there’s a Chef School in La Forêt-Fouesnant, specialising in crêpes? We were only just saying how we’d love to learn how to make buck wheat crêpes (galettes de blé noir) the way Monsieur Quartier d’été makes them, so thin and lacy. Maybe, just maybe, we’ll sign up for a course….
So Play d’eau will be staying for the next few days. An added bonus is that the sun is out and forecast to stay out. Good call.
Piers and Lin
from the Saloon of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
The chocolates made by the Chocolatiere look so gorgeous click to enlarge
…and there were more…. click to enlarge
The cakes were glistening so seductively click to enlarge
…and there were more…. click to enlarge
These were the voyages of Piers and Lin du Pré aboard their Fleming 55
