Another spectacular sunrise light show click to enlargeEven though we’d had a somewhat tiresome passage yesterday, it had been unexpectedly rewarded by the second best dinner we’ve had whilst on holiday this year.
If ever there’s a reason to visit Camaret, it’s the Restaurant of the small Hotel Vauban.
Although tired, we felt back on form.
Go or no go?
With the morning’s forecast and actuals to hand, we plotted our next move over an early morning coffee (tea for Lin).
All looked good apart from a tight frontal system swirling around the peninsula, yet being so tight it was unlikely to present strong winds apart from isolated downdraughts and showers, maybe heavy, from any lurking cumulus cloud.
We made the decision to go.
Black skies
Against the black clouds, the sunlight was breathtaking click to enlargeAs dawn approached, the sky to the east was clear apart from a narrow roll of cloud just above the distant horizon. In comparison, the fronts had covered the sky to the west with thick, black ominous cloud.
As the sun rose she found a small letterbox gap between the land and the cloud through which she beamed, creating rainbows and a glorious show of bright light.
With an ETD of 0900, we prepared for departure and cast off after a breakfast of French Bread (eggy bread fried in bacon fat – yummy) and coffee (tea for Lin).
Thankfully, yesterday’s swell had completely disappeared. Had it been scared off by Play d’eau’s wrath? The land protected us from an easterly force 3 wind and the transit through the Chenal du Four was yet again, placid.
L’Aber Wrac’h or…?
Nearing the turn towards l’Aber Wrac’h we wondered if we should continue straight to Roscoff. The seas were comfortable, the wind had dropped to a light southerly force 2 and the sun had chased the cloud away. What could be better?
We did.
Nearing Roscoff
Yacht Meander en route to Ushant as we passed l’Aber Wrac’h click to enlargeNearing Roscoff, the narrow channel between the Île de Batz and the mainland can look narrow and daunting with short changes of heading to avoid the many rocky outcrops. But provided you have understood the transits it’s really straight forward and good fun.
The many ferries and trawlers which use this channel are helpful and help by making way.
Calling Bloscon marina on channel 09, we were met at the entrance and guided to the hammerhead of pontoon A.
Date: 7 August 2015
Departed Camaret: 0903
Arrived Roscoff: 1725
Pinchpoint: Chenal du Four
Longest leg: 16.2nm
Time en route: 8hr 20min
Planned distance: 61.8nm
Tech issues: None.
Piers and Lin
from the Pilot House of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
(click on the photos below to enlarge, and use the left/right arrows)
Richard and Andrea of Yacht Whileaway left for Paimpol as well click to enlargeWe had entered the Rivre de Tréguier in the rain, the mist and a F4, and we left the Rivre de Tréguier in the rain, the mist and a F4.
The weather
Reality was as forecast. A warm front was dithering over Tréguier casting its gloom in the form of mist and light rain, aided and abetted by a F4 from the N.
Pinch points
Being a locked marina, it’s easiest to enter Paimpol when the lock is on free-flow – open both ends – which occurs about an hour either side of HW.
The nav plan
Wanting to minimise the time we’d be directly exposed to the N wind, we planned to route through the Passe de la Gaine, passing south of Les Haux de Bréhat with its 48m high lighthouse before turning SSE through Chenal de la Moisie to the La Vieille du Tréou SHM.Leaving Treguier along the still waters of the river click to enlargeThence, SW to La Croix before turning E to route between the mainland and Ile de Bréhat whilst playing dodgems with the Vedettes that ply their trade between the two.
Once clear of the mainland, we’d turn S and head for the Chenal du Dénou and finally W along the long approach to the locked harbour of Paimpol.
With the journey taking approximately 4 hours, we’d leave Tréguier at 0810 to catch free-flow at Paimpol, at 1200.
The journey
Apart from being misty the whole way with a visibility of ½ mile, the journey was almost boringly uneventful. The sea’s emotions were in an irritated mood for about an hour after we’d left the Rivre de Tréguier but quietened soon after we turned SSE towards La Vieille.
Transiting these narrow channels can be a challenge to a chap’s sense of humour, but the whole journey was ‘plain sailing’ if a motor boater is allowed to use such a phrase.We saw many more fish farms along the river click to enlargeOverall, the tidal effect was more positive than we’d planned and we gained 22 minutes.
Arriving
We’d met a couple from Yacht Whileaway whilst in Tréguier and their plan was also to move to Paimpol, today. However, last night they moved up river and anchored to shorten their journey. Given their departure time we were confident we’d overtake them en route, but this was not be.
In the Chenal du Dénou we hailed them on Ch16. Changing to Ch77, I asked where they were. ‘Just entering the main approach channel to Paimpol,’ came the reply. They’d beaten us! How could that be? They must have set off earlier than planned. Hmmm.
However, we remain friends, and they’re coming around for a glass or three this evening.
The tecky details
We passed just to the south of Les Haux de Bréhat click to enlargeDeparted Tréguier – 0810
Arrived Tréguier – 1335
Time on passage – 3hr 25min
Total planned distance – 26.1nm
Tide: 2 days before Neaps
Longest leg – 3.9nm La Croix to Cadenenou NCM (pilotage)
Tech issues – nil
Incidents – Why do the French seem to leave their lobster pots right in the middle of the smallest navigation channels?
Navigational info: Given the strong tidal flows through Tréguier’s pontoons, it’s best to be pointing into the current when leaving.
Piers and Lin
From the Nav Table of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
A recently repainted La Croix in the Entrée de la Riviere de Trieux click to enlarge
Passing close to Denou in the Chenal du Dénou before turning west on final approach to Paimpol click to enlarge
Treguier, on the north coast of Brittany, was founded in the sixth century and still has many ancient buildings click to enlargeUpdate 3 November 2017
Jean-Jacques Furet, Harbour Master, Treguier, has pointed out some major marina improvements to the following report I made in 2013. Please read his comments which are almost at the bottom of this page.
Report dated 11 September 2013
Tréguier, on the north coast of Brittany, is one of our favourite places in which to while away a few days absorbing the beauty and stillness of a river marina and walking around the small town with its many ancient buildings dating back to the sixth century.
Hot chocolate (large) in the square sitting opposite the 14th century cathedral is de rigueur as one contemplates the difficult decision of which boulangerie to choose for your next supply of croissants.
So what was wrong with the old marina?
In a strange way, the ‘oldness’ and ‘unkemptness’ of the pontoons was one of Tréguier’s attractions. You felt something of an explorer visiting a little known and hidden away marina.
Yet, the ravages of years had taken its toll. Piles were rusted through becoming a lattice-work of holes joined by flakes of rust. Fingers were too small, too flimsy and insubstantial for many visitors and stories of fingers breaking away drifting downriver complete with yacht attached can still be heard on the jungle drums.The cathedral in Treguier’s square click to enlargeDespite these inadequacies, visiting boaters kept returning, the beauty of tucked away Tréguier more than compensating for the marina risks.
That’s precisely why we kept coming back with Play d’eau, mooring up to the first or second hammerhead with its desperately suspect fingers, but having heard the distant jungle drums we would run additional warps stretching to more secure points back along the main pontoon.
So what’s new – what’s changed?
Major work has been carried out over the last year of so to revamp the marina. For example,
Every pile has been replaced.
Every piece of rotten and bent pontoon boarding has been replaced.
The Capitainerie’s office is new and in the marina building opposite Pontoon E’s walkway
Video surveillance is throughout the marina
The bar and marina restaurant (Le Pontoon) has had a facelift and serves good food.
…and for the arriving boater,
The first pontoon (E) now has a very substantial 30m x 2.5m pontoon in place of its old hammerhead.
Eight new and substantial 10m fingers have been installed on the north side of E.
The first three pontoons (E, D, C) offer the visitor berths.
A new 30m hammerhead on pontoon E. Remember to have your fenders set high. Play d’eau looks dwarfed! click to enlarge
55 visitor berths accommodate boats lengths up to approximately 15m max.
Visitor berths have 16A electricity supplies and water
Visitors can reserve a berth by calling the HM on his mobile 0033 (0) 6 72 70 70 20
Tréguier Marina
Tréguier marina is 5nm up the beautiful Rivre de Tréguier which has some lovely and protected places in which to anchor.
42nm to the west is Roscoff, 53nm NE will find you in Beaucette Marina Guernsey, to the east by 28nm is Paimpol and St Malo at 58nm, whilst Plymouth is 100nm to the NNW.
Access to the marina is 24/7, regardless of tide. Speed limits are 5kts reducing to 3kts in the marina. Along the river you’ll pass fish and shell fish farms and I’d advise keeping speed back to 3kts even if just to keep people happy.The Capitainerie is in the main building opposite Pontoon E’s walkway click to enlargeWi-Fi is free from Netabord. If you don’t already have a code, ask at the HM’s office and car hire and taxis can be arranged through the HM office as well.
Diesel is available from the N side of pontoon E, limited from HW slack to LW slack, but not during the flood tide.
The private firms which have been operating by the marina for many years all appear to have grown and offer just about every facility you may need. Lift out (21 tonne max), mechanics, GRP work, as well as considerable amounts of storage ashore, either covered in large sheds or out on the hard standing.
The ancient three floored chandlery just over the bridge has had an extension built and every nook and cranny of the whole building bulges with chandlery and clothing. I don’t recall having seen such an vast array of boaty bits in one place.
Lin and I spent ages just looking, whilst the smell of tarred twine evoked childhood memories of looking around Jersey’s St Aubin’s chandlery with Dad in the late 1950s and early 1960s, and before you say it, yes, I’ve recently qualified for my old age pension….
Provisioning
The chandlery ‘over the bridge’ bulges with equipment from floor to ceiling – literally click to enlargeThere’s a huge farmers’ market on Wednesdays from 0900-1300, every week of the year, which stretches from the marina hardstanding right up into the town’s square. As someone has previously commented, you can buy anything from a day old chicken to a ten year old Calvados.
As well as the many shops in the square, I’m told there’s a Super-U on Boulevard Jean Guehenno, up the steepish hill from the Pont Canada roundabout about 1.6km SW of the marina. Walking back down the hill is much easier of course!
Le Ponton – the Marina’s bar and restaurant
After a period of absence, the marina restaurant is back up and running with a clever ‘pirate’ décor which we have to admit, is really well done.
Our first meal at Le Ponton was capped off by a glass of Venezuelan rum which the Chef Proprietor M. Porgré-gilles, presented to Piers. With rum as Piers favourite tipple, he was surprised by its richness and elegance and promptly bought a bottle the next day. How long it will last is another question altogether.
You can reserve a table by calling – 0033 (2) 96 92 41 08.
Three words of caution
The first and third SHMs are lit. The second, which reaches into the channel, isn’t. More than one yacht has hit it on approach at night click to enlargeThe first regards the final approach to the marina for which there are three green SHMs. The first and last are lit. The middle isn’t. If you follow the line between the first and third green at night, you’ll probably hit the middle SHM since it’s bang (literally) in your way in the channel.
A visiting yacht had done just that when we arrived and was having its bows repaired where the GPR had been damaged.
The second concerns the tidal flow which can move through the pontoons just as quickly, if not quicker, than that at Roscoff. It’s emphasised by the HM that mooring should only ever be attempted into the current.
The third concerns the debris the river picks up especially at spring tide and which can so easily foul your sterngear. Always check all is clear before casting off – it can save a good deal of embarrassment – see the photo below.
Our thanks for much of this information must go to HM, David Peron, who speaks such good English.
Piers and Lin
from the Nav table of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
Spring tides wash debris down river. The HM is towing a 25′ tree trunk found wedged across the transom of a yacht click to enlarge
The flood and ebb tides are very strong and flow through the pontoons diagonally. Always moor into the current click to enlarge
Low tide at the marina makes it a challenge to climb the walkways click to enlarge
At high tide walkways are easy click to enlarge
The chandlery is bursting at the seams from floor to ceiling – literally click to enlarge
The magnificent chandlery is just over the Treguier’s bridge click to enlarge
Let’s call this leg, ‘Never poke your tongue out at the rain’.
The weather
The cold front hovering over Roscoff and the Bay of Morlaix, its rain showers clearly visible click to enlargeThe last few days of our week’s stay in Roscoff had seen thick fog which didn’t really clear until after lunch, leaving the air cold and damp.
In contrast, today was a clear day. The forecast showed a fairly consistent W’ly F3/F4 which would push us on our easterly route to Tréguier.
The synoptic chart showed something else (see below).
An area of low pressure had been hanging around to the NW of France, leaving an elongated warm and cold front stretching in an almost straight line down the coast of Norway, though central England to graze the NW coast of France before turning into the Bay of Biscay.
It would reach Roscoff as a cold front sometime around midday as it made its way slowly eastwards. The question was how developed was the front? Would it be producing downdrafts, squalls, and heavy rain?
Pinch points
Looking south towards Tréguier five hours later. This same rain storm had stalked us from Roscoff and was waiting to mug us as we entered the Rivre de Tréguier click to enlargeThere were no pinch points as such, but we wanted to ensure we had the wind and tide with us, meaning a following wind and a tide that carried us to Tréguier.
The nav plan
Tidal streams showed we should be entering the channel between Les Sept Îsles and mainland around HW Brest -3½. At this point, the tide would be almost slack after which it would carry eastwards along the coast and upriver to Tréguier.
The journey
As we left Roscoff in sunshine, we could see the cold front to the west.
By the time we were half way across the Bay of Morlaix the front was a solid messy mass of cumulus over Roscoff and it had started to block the sun from Play d’eau. You could see where it was dropping its rain.Tracking these showers on radar showed they were either staying over the land or moving north, albeit very slowly. They’d miss us. Ha!Approaching the Rivre de Treguier, the cloud burst over us as though to say ‘Gotcha’ almost obliterating visibility. Taken from inside the Pilot House! click to enlargePassing by Les Sept Îsles we encountered short term F6 squalls. The largest shower we’d be tracking was almost abeam us but still over the land. In my mind, I poked my tongue at it as I said, ‘You didn’t manage to get us.’
Famous last thoughts. As we tracked south from the Basse Crublent PHM to the mouth of the river de Tréguier, it passed overhead, its rain almost obliterating visibility. But by the time we’d passed La Corne, the rain had all but stopped and we had a beautiful 5nm trip up river, with magnificent cloud displays all round.
Arriving
We arrived as the tide was almost at its highest, with only a half knot flow. Seeing the brand new 30m hammerhead, we turned, headed into the tide, moored up, and settled down to dinner and to watch the finals of Masterchef.
Incidents
The rain was so heavy it beat the sea into submission click to enlargeAfter so many incident-free legs, this one had two.
The first was the pressure switch on the compressed air tank which failed to shut down the compressors as full pressure was reached. Just as we were casting off, the pressure relief valve blew with an almighty bang followed by a huge rush of escaping air. I’d be telling porky pies if I said I didn’t jump.
The second was as we were passing Les Sept Isles. I’d been watching two fisherman becalmed in their Merry Fisher ahead and to port. Suddenly, they opened their outboard’s throttle and steamed straight at us on an intercept.
Five blasts on the Kalhlenbergs did nothing to alter their apparent determination to hit us. By now I see into their small cockpit. The skipper wasn’t looking to see where he was going, he was turned away talking with his friend. Maybe the noise of his outboard was drowning even the 143dB Kahlenbergs.Ten minutes after it started, the downpour stopped just as we passed Le Cornu, leaving perfect visibility click to enlargeHaving already disengaged forward power I engaged reverse and ‘Kahlenberged’ them with a long blast. Just before cutting in front of me and only about 30m away, the skipper must have heard and suddenly looked up. His mouth dropped open, he slammed his out board into reverse and pirouetted to port and away from us, giving me a ‘Gallic’ shrug as though to say ‘Pas de problème.’
My thoughts at this point are unprintable. After 25 years of boating, I was amazed at how suddenly and quickly the situation had developed.
The tecky details
Departed Roscoff – 1225
Arrived Tréguier – 1810
Time on passage – 5hr 45min
Total planned distance – 42.4nm
Tide: Springs
Longest leg – 12.9nm from West of Les Sept Isles channel to Basse Crublent PHMMoored in Treguier on the new 30m hammerhead. Taken the next day as Lin was hanging the washing out click to enlarge
Tech issues – One – see above
Incidents – One – see above
Navigational info: There’s a strong tidal flow at 45 degrees across Tréguier’s marina pontoons just waiting to catch you out!
Piers and Lin
From the Nav Table of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.The synoptic chart for 0001 on 6 September 2013 click to enlarge
Roscoff’s Bloscon marina. The commercial port and marina entrance are on the left of the picture click to enlargeReport dated: 6 September 2013
Bloscon is already a great marina, and next year will be simply superb. Here’s why.
An interview with M. Frédérie Boccou, Maître du Port
Frédérie spent forty minutes with me unravelling the creation of the Bloscon complex, and detailed the next and last developments to bring the marina to completion by May 2014.
The vision was that for €52m, Roscoff’s ferry and fishing ports would be expanded and modernised, and a new marina created.
Roscoff’s Bloscon marina is perfectly located on the north coast of Brittany. It’s 15nm from Trébeurden to the east. To the west it’s 34nm from L’Aber Wrac’h and 67nm from Brest. To the north, it’s 95nm from Plymouth and 75nm from the popular Beaucette Marina, Guernsey.M. Frédérie Boccou, Maître du Port, Roscoff click to enlargeAs well as being an ideal transit marina, a growing number of British owners are locating their boats to Bloscon permanently to save Channel crossings and marina fees; there’s so much to explore along the north coast, and for the more adventurous Brittany’s inviting west coast beckons, strongly.
Roscoff – a small town of character
The small town of Roscoff is a mile away. Its ancient buildings and small one way roads are a delight and restaurants, créperies, boulangeries (fresh croissants galore!), and small hotels abound.
Food ingredients are mainly available from the two out of town supermarkets. However, for those in Roscoff on a Wednesday morning, there’s a comprehensive farmers’ market.
Bloscon marina details – today
Marina staff are on the water in their RIBs from 0700 to 2100 click to enlargeBloscon marina’s telephone number is 0033 (0) 2 98 79 79 49. All staff are fluent in English and extremely helpful. Note: Reeds Nautical Almanac details the wrong telephone number.
Berthing costs are almost the least expensive on the north and west coasts of France, whether visiting or looking for half or full year contracts.
There are 625 berths, plus an additional 45 dedicated for visitors on the south side of pontoon B and north side of pontoon D. Thirteen berths are adapted for those with physical disabilities.
The marina’s minimum depth is 4m, regardless of tide.
Marina buildings currently house a chandlery (mainly selling clothing and fishing tackle and some basic boating items), a sandwich bar from which bread and croissants can be pre-ordered, and car and bicycle hire.
10,000 square metres of hard standing is available for storage ashore and there’s a 20m x 100m slipway to the water.Bloscon’s pontoons have rubbing strakes to protect boats click to enlargeThe marina’s large car park offers free parking.Wi-fi is also free, yet the one aerial which services the marina currently struggles to cope.
A 50 tonne travel hoist is available. The only other hoists of similar or greater lifting capability are at M&G St Sampson’s Guernsey, Jersey, Brest and St Malo.
Pontoons
The 4m wide walkway takes you from the marina buildings down to two main pontoons. The one straight ahead and against the new concrete breakwater is 100m x 4m, and is reserved for large vessels and superyachts. Its electricity supply is both 16A and 32A.
At right angles to this is another 4m wide walkway with two toilet blocks. This pontoon has nine further pontoons, A to I inclusive, all with substantial 12m fingers which are untypically French; they don’t sink when you stand on them – I’ve jump and bounce tested them.The delightful town of Roscoff is full of ancient buildings click to enlargeFingers and pontoons have high impact plastic protective inserts to prevent yacht damage. 16A electricity and water supplies are available to all as are substantial cow-horn cleats.
The service pontoon sports a fuel berth with a 24/7 diesel pump which accepts UK credit cards, an oil disposal unit, and a black tank pump out and flush facility.
Note that water is supplied from the new style connectors now appearing in so many marinas. These adaptors are (thankfully) available for purchase from the HM.
Approach
Just like Jersey’s St Helier marina, the approach to the marina is through the commercial ferry port where international lights control all movements.
The first set controls entry and transit through the commercial area to the marina. The lights are on the north side of the Lemaire commercial breakwater and display green over white over green when ferries are manoeuvring, prohibiting entry.
The second set controls exit from the marina and are at the marina’s entrance by the starboard hand marker. Three reds forbid exit.
Only the marina’s north entrance is to be used. The southern entrance should not be attempted where there are unchartered rocks and shoals. ‘Captain’s own risk,’ as Frédérie said.
In the marina
Alexandre Dumas of the Three Musketeers fame lived here in Roscoff for the summer of 1869 whilst he wrote his chapter on the onion in his Great Dictionary of Cuisine click to enlargeMarina RIBs with 30hp and 70hp outboards are constantly on the water between 0700 and 2100 to help visitors to their berths and ensure the lights are obeyed.
Ahead you will see the pontoons. To your left is a beautiful 570m long breakwater constructed from local pink granite blocks. To your immediate right is the service and superyacht pontoon next to the concrete breakwater.
A small word of warning. It’s been found that at springs, a strong current of 3 to 4 knots runs by the pink granite breakwater. Do not underestimate its effect when manoeuvring between this breakwater and the first berths of the pontoons.
Bloscon marina details – tomorrow (May 2014)
As well as restaurants, chandleries and a supermarket in the marina itself, adjacent separate buildings will house professional marine services, including boat builders, sail loft, engineers and mechanics.
A new HM complex will house marina staff and the yacht club, as well as having toilet and shower facilities.
Wi-Fi is having an additional three aerials installed to overcome the current coverage and connectivity issues.
A lift to the pontoons for those with physical disabilities will be operational.
Completion is on target for May 2014.
Piers and Lin
from the Nav Table of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form. Piers washing Play d’eau. You can just see Irish ferry (behind the pink granite breakwater) which is moored in the commercial port click to enlargeThe exit from Bloscon marina. The three red lights (by the marina’s SHM) are lit indicating manoeuvring in the commercial port and prohibiting exit click to enlarge
These were the voyages of Piers and Lin du Pré aboard their Fleming 55
