We started our drive but we soon had to keep stopping for photos click to enlargeAfter our two nights at the Rosendal Winery, the drive to Altes Landhaus (Schoemanschoek, Oudtshoorn) was greater in distance and greater in beauty if the latter was at all possible.
The enormity of the endless, dry, arid mountain ranges, the unusual variety of colours, the ostriches, baboons and other animals we couldn’t identify, was captivating.
Altes Landhaus
We were staying in another boutique hotel, the Altes Landhaus, a large Victorian colonial style farmer’s ranch, beautifully restored and with gardens full of intense colours.
Everywhere in this ranch was huge including our room. I say room yet it was really three rooms. The bedroom, lounge and bathroom were all of equal size.
A nice touch was a decanter of sherry resting on a side table to refresh us.
Peace
The browny-red colours reminded us of Devon soil click to enlargeBoth Rosendal and Altes have been so peaceful. It’s Autumn so guests are few; both hotels are in the middle of nowhere so there’s no noise apart from crickets, toads, tree frogs, endless bird song much of which is heard on David Attenborough’s documentaries, and the dinner gong.
For the next two nights we have a rest from fine dining and calories and plan the next stage of our journey – to Plettenberg Bay before setting course for Toby and Amy’s wedding in the Tala Private Game Reserve.
We’re so excited. We want to press the time accelerator.
Piers and Lin
Altes Landhaus
…on temporary leave of absence from Play d’eau
Fleming 55
Beaucette Marina
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
Different rock formations everywhere click to enlarge
The ranges rolled on for miles into the distance click to enlarge
So hot, so dry, yet animals thrive here click to enlarge
By now we are nearing our destination click to enlarge
We arrive at Altes Landhaus click to enlarge
Bougainvillea lined the 100m driveway click to enlarge
Alternating red and white, a wall of colour was created click to enlarge
A Rosendal Merlot click to enlargeWe drove the three hour journey across mountains, through gorges and along tightly circuitous passes in our Avis hire car to the gorgeous Rosendal Winery, a tiny eight room ‘boutique’ hotel in the middle of nowhere between Roberston and Ashton.
Blue skies
Although it’s Autumn, we’ve had the most wonderful weather since we arrived. It’s been in the mid-thirties centigrade with cloudless blue skies and gentle breezes to keep us cool.
Chef David
Dinner that evening was completely unexpected. Not that we were given dinner, but that its quality was simply outstanding.
I began asking questions to our waitress who told us the chef was her husband, and that he’d worked in many top restaurants in the UK and Europe.Rosendal Winery and Wellness Centre click to enlarge‘Where in the UK?’ I asked. ‘The Vineyard at Stockcross,’ came the reply. ‘But that was our local restaurant,’ I replied. ‘When was he there?’
It transpired that Chef David was there from the very start of the Vinyard having come from the Savoy Grill and other one and two Michelin Star kitchens before that. No wonder the food was delectable.
Two nights
With two nights at Rosendal, we tasted (and drank) their wines, ate sumptuously, and subjected ourselves to various Spa treatments. Various ‘pink’ treatments for Lin and ‘muscle bashing’ massages for Piers. He ached the next day.
The evenings were spent watching vivid, shot silk sunsets whilst toads croaked, crickets chirruped, and birds sang their lullabies.
The Last Supper
Rosendal’s infinity swimming poolChef David came to see us to discuss our last supper at Rosendal. We chose the tasting menu, menu Dégustation, but he insisted on making some changes given various courses we’d had previously.
It was divine. Eating on the veranda of a small boutique hotel in the middle of nowhere mountains, watching another sunset.
Bliss.
Piers and Lin
Rosendal Winery and Wellness Centre
…on temporary leave of absence from Play d’eau
Fleming 55
Beaucette Marina
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
The drive across the mountains was simply breathtaking click to enlarge
Gorges and passes never ending click to enalrge
So majestic, mile after mile click to enlarge
One hundred miles of stunning scenery click to enlarge
One of Rosendal white wines click to enlarge
You can eat in Rosendal’s cellars click to enlarge
A weaver bird builds his nest (taken from 150m away) click to enlarge
Langer township’s African Gospel Church click to enalrgeWe had no idea how much today’s tour of a township, District 6 and Robben Island, was going to affect us.
Township
Our guide warned us that we may find this tour somewhat gruelling. He was right. So very right.
Langer is a township, a mass of cheap one and two story concrete buildings where blacks were settled when being displaced from land which whites claimed for themselves.
Typically, a two small room building is now occupied by six people. One room for sleeping, the other serving as a kitchen and day room. Communal toilets serve many buildings. Running water and electricity is in many cases, a bonus.
We felt uncomfortable. Here was utter poverty and in their eyes we were white rich tourists looking at them and their environment. But we were told again and again not to feel bad since a proportion of the tour fees went to help the township.Pottery is taught and the results are sold click to enlargeOn the plus side, projects were underway where manual skills are taught and developed, and schools have sprung up. In one of them, 30 gorgeous, excitable three year olds sang to us. Their happy innocent, eager eyes and untainted souls made us wonder where they’d be in years to come. Lin and I wept.
We sang ‘The wheels on the bus go round and round’ to them as they squealed with delight.
There are no state hand-outs. The people of UK have no concept of poverty or the poverty line.
District 6
Moving to District 6 we first visited the museum where an ex-prisoner, originally incarcerated and beaten for spreading anti-government propaganda, showed us around, explaining what happened not only to the area, but to his family and hundreds of others.The sand paintings were really beautiful click to enlargePhotographs and newspaper articles detailed the devastation of what happened.
Robben Island
By now, our minds were emotionally disoriented. I can’t think of a better term. Yet the hour and a half boat ride to Robben Island did nothing to prepare us for the next stage of our tour.
Another black ex-prisoner who’d also been beaten and tortured and held in the same prison block as Nelson Mandela, greeted us. Apparently, blacks could be imprisoned and kept without trial for as long as the authorities wanted. No time limits applied.
Dog kennels were twice the size of prison cells.
Although we were encouraged to take photographs of the prison and especially the tiny cell where Mandela was held, I couldn’t. I felt that if I did, I’d somehow be trivialising something of untold value that should be held just as it was and not consigned to digital format.
Revenge or Reconciliation?
Part of a giraffe sand painting click to enlargeThe language we kept hearing from those who suffered for so many years was common. ‘Reconciliation, not retribution or revenge, only reconciliation.’
What a great and inspired leader Nelson Mandela was. Without him, one dreads to imagine the blood bath that would have undoubtedly happened.
Who can possibly follow in his footsteps?
Leaving Robben Island
Leaving the small Robben Island harbour, we were astounded by the thousands of cormorants that lined the breakwater.
Maybe one cormorant for each prisoner that perished here, I wondered.
Piers and LinThousands of cormorants lined Robben Island’s breakwater. One per prisoner? click to enlargeMount Nelson Hotel
…on temporary leave of absence fromPlay d’eau
Fleming 55
Beaucette Marina
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
A Cape Seal swims lazily around the harbour click to enlargeOur second day in Cape Town is another tightly packed tour. We’ll visit Hout Bay, the Cape of Good Hope, Cape Point, a colony of penguins at Boulder Bay, and the Botanical Gardens.
Hout bay
No-one can believe the weather! Clear, deep blue skies with a baking hot sun. We know the Mount Nelson has a reputation for being able to arrange anything, but this goes way beyond expectations.
After another great tropical fruit breakfast and a large cup of fresh strong black coffee (tea for Lin), our tour guide picks us up at 8.20am.
Driving south along the west coast, we stop initially at Hout Bay Harbour where some Cape Seals are swimming around, lazily.
Continuing south, I see a wide bank of sea fog in the distance. ‘Look Lin. Sea fog, and it will soon be on us.’ Loving meteorology, I find this far more exciting than being able to admire the seascape.Hout Bay harbour click to enlarge
Controlled Burn
A mile or so before the Cape of Good Hope we see smoke rising high in the distance. This isn’t seafog, it’s smoke which in turn means fire. A brush fire? Thankfully no. As we pass by, signs declare a controlled burn’s in progress. There are many firemen keeping it in check.
But it’s a hot day and the breeze is increasing.
Cape of Good Hope
Arriving at the Cape of Good Hope the first thin wisps of sea fog are around us. We stop to take photos. From the Cape of Good Hope we drive to Cape Point. Behind us, we can see the smoke is more dense and the sky is dark.
Cape Point
A bank of sea fog approaches the coast click to enlarge
We arrive at Cape Point as the sea fog reduces visibility to a few hundred metres. No views. Is it disappointing? Not at all.
Instead our imaginations run riot at the thought of sailors battling their tall masted ships with torn sails against violent storms, whilst laden with precious far eastern spices and hoping beyond hope they wouldn’t be driven onto the rocks to face certain death and join countless others.
Uncontrolled?
Returning, we have to drive past the fire. There’s no doubt the fire is spreading. The flames are more extensive. A fire engine races past with its siren wailing (wobbling would be a better description) and more trucks with more firemen.
The traffic stops and is backed up ahead of us. We slow and stop and it’s not long before the smell of smoke is in the mini-bus, maybe because I’ve opened the side window and am hanging out taking photos.
Smoke rises in the distance click to enlargeWhilst I’m half out of the window I hear the unmistakable ‘wop, wop’ of helicopter blades. It arrives carrying a huge water bladder. It drops its load over the fire close to the road and flies off.
We’re on the move again, the water having sufficiently doused the flames to allow us to pass.
How exciting this trip is becoming!
Penguins
We even have time to visit a penguin sanctuary at Boulders Bay.
What great little fellows these little African (Jackass) Penguins are, and how strange to see penguins on a hot beach. Where’s the snow and ice?
The sanctuary has boarded and railed walkways to separate visitors from the colony. It’s fun hearing them speak (the penguins, not the visitors). They ‘grunt’. And when they start grunting in unison they sound like donkeys braying – hence their colloquial name of ‘Jackass’ Penguins.
We pass close to the ‘controlled burn’ click to enlarge
Botanical Gardens
It’s been a long day, and we end it with a visit to the Cape’s Botanical Gardens. Although Autumn, there were still a few flowers in full bloom.
What must these hectares crammed with species from all over the world look like in Spring?
Piers and Lin
Mount Nelson Hotel, Cape Town
…on temporary leave of absence from Play d’eau
Fleming 55
Beaucette Marina
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
The sea fog bank reaches the coast… click to enlarge
…and starts to engulf the area… click to enlarge
..and starts pouring through the gap in the hills and over the town click to enlarge
Yes, we were there but not in Play d’eau click to enlarge
By now, the smoke was dense and the fire extensive click to enlarge
Traffic was stopped soon after passing these fires click to enlarge
A fire engine raced by. The air was thick with smoke click to enlarge
A helicopter arrived and dumped water… click to enlarge
…and flew off for a refill click to enlarge
With the traffic moving again, we looked back click to enlarge
Table Mountain from our room at the Mount Nelson click to enlargeAs you know, we’re in South Africa to be with our son, Toby, for his marriage to Amy. And what a great excuse to have a holiday as well.
Flight problems ex-Dubai
Late in the evening of April 5, we flew from Amsterdam to Cape Town on Emirates via Dubai. But after take-off from Dubai we levelled at 10,000 feet and flew north west out to sea and began circling. Strange, we should have been going south.
I was about to say something to Lin, when the Captain announced, ‘Ladies and Gentlemen, unfortunately, the undercarriage will not retract so we have to return to Dubai.’
Boring…
After dumping fuel to reduce weight, we landed, disembarked, ate lunch and had a four hour delay whilst another A340 was prepared. This time, the undercarriage came up.
Cape Town
Cape Town with Table Mountain behind taken from the boat that took us to the infamous Robben Island click to enlargeWe arrived at our hotel, the Mount Nelson, at 2330 local, somewhat tired. We’d been up almost forty hours.
With six hours sleep, we were up and eating a sumptuous al fresco breakfast under the veranda in this equally sumptuous colonial-style hotel. The sun was already roasting hot and at 0800 we jumped in a mini-bus for our first guided tour – the City and Table Mountain.
Unusually for this autumnal time of year, the skies are clear, the sun is hot with temperatures in the mid-thirties. How perfect is that?
Table Mountain
Table Mountain is breathtaking. No other word can describe this seventh natural wonder of nature.
The Swiss designed and installed cable car whisked us 765m (2,510 feet) up to the top whilst we stood on its slowly revolving floor enabling everyone in the car to have an equal view.
On top of the mountain we saw some guineapig lookalikes, locally called Dassies, but in reality, Rock Hyrax. Is the plural Hyrices as in index and indices, we wondered?Dassies roam the top of Table Mountain click to enlargeAn American lady was cooing over one whilst trying to reach out to stroke it. ‘Oh how simply awesome. So sweet. I really must have one,’ she squealed. After a few moments I said to her, ‘You, know, I’ve been told they are far better rare rather than well done.’
‘Uh-huh,’ came the response before my words had fully settled in, followed by, ‘Oh that’s dreadful. How horrid.’ I could hardly prevent smiling whilst I added, ‘It’s best to keep back a bit, you know. They spit poison.’
By now, obviously confused, and with a furrowed brow, she backed off. Looking at me questioningly, she murmured a weak, ‘Thank you,’ and disappeared.
We wonder just how far this rumour will spread.
Afternoon
Having descended, we visited to the 1679 Castle of Good Hope which protects the Governor’s Residence.
Exhausted, but exhilarated by the sheer beauty of Cape Town and its surroundings, we return to the ‘Pink Lady’ and dined in its beautiful Planet restaurant.
Piers and Lin
Mount Nelson Hotel, Cape Town
…on temporary leave of absence from Play d’eau
Fleming 55
Beaucette Marina
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
It’s 765m to the top… click to enlarge
…and 765m down click to enlarge
The Atlantic ocean is to the west and south click to enlarge
The views are simply stunning click to enlarge
You cannot tire of the views click to enlarge
Looking to the north along the ridge click to enlarge
If you really want you can opt to abseil down click to enlarge
Piers didn’t click to enlarge
The hour we had gazing was far too little click to enlarge
Cape Town with Robben Island in the distance click to enlarge
Resident Egyptian geese in the Castle of Good Hope Fort click to enlarge
Papa Goose follows behind making very loud ‘goose warning noises’ click to enlarge
The Governor’s Residence within the Castle of Good Hope click to enlarge
The Governor’s entrance hallway click to enlarge
The dining room seats over 100 guests click to enlarge
After a long day we arrive at the impressive arches to the Mount Nelson’s driveway click to enlarge
The Mount Nelson’s long and imposing driveway click to enlarge
We arrive back at the Mount Nelson click to enlarge
The glorious wing where we ate al fresco overlooking the pool click to enlarge
The Mount Nelson Hotel, Cape Town with Table Mountain behind click to enlargeWe arrived at the start of our South African extravaganza at this magnificent old colonial-style hotel, the Mount Nelson, late last Sunday evening after an unexpectedly prolonged journey.
The Mount Nelson is affectionately know as ‘The Pink Lady’ or ‘Nellie’.
The last three days
We’ve packed so much into the last three days. The weather has been unexpectedly perfect with temperatures in the high twenties, cloudless skies and a gentle cooling breeze.
Table Mountain, Cape Point, the Cape of Good Hope, Botanical gardens, District 6 and Robben Island have taken every moment. Robben Island has left us emotionally exhausted.
To make you smile…
Yesterday, we were having an early breakfast on the terrace when the sun poked her nose through the palm trees beyond the infinity pool at the end of the beautiful green lawn.
With our table laden with glorious tropical fruits, the aromas of freshly watered garden mixed with good strong coffee, were intoxicating.
Then the sun went out. It was a street lamp.
Piers and Lin
Mount Nelson Hotel
…on temporary leave of absence from Play d’eau
Fleming 55
Beaucette Marina
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
Which city are we in? click to enlargeThursday 3 April. It’s the beginning of our South African adventure.
Can you guess from the photo?
Alarm clock, coffee (tea for Lin), taxi, airport, check-in, security, departure lounge, is the fog going to delay us? No.
Blue Islands flight SI 310 is on time for the exhausting ten minute flight to the ‘other island’ (Jersey).
We disembark and wait two and a half hours before boarding Blue Island flight SI 295 for – did you guess right?
Grand Amrath
We are billeted in the Grand Amrath Hotel, Amsterdam, a somewhat strange looking Art Deco early 1900s building, originally designed as the HQ for six major Dutch shipping companies.The glass roof at the Grand Amrath showing South Africa click to enlargeThe roof is two enormous stained glass windows depicting the sides of the earth. I took a photo of the side showing South Africa for the Emirates pilot in case he gets lost en route on Saturday knowing he’d be grateful.
Looks
When Toby and I have been to METS, Kahlenberg has always treated us to dinner at Looks. So Lin and I ate there.
The menu showed only four starters and main courses and three desserts. But what options. So inspired. Apparently the menu’s changed every six weeks which keeps regulars coming back and back.
We can see why. We weren’t disappointed. The cooking was tinglingly exciting.
Friday
We wonder what’s on the menu in this ‘coffee shop’ click to enlargeToday we walk, work, and plan.
We have two days when we return and will spend the time visiting the art museums of great Dutch Masters. And maybe Looks, again?
On Saturday, we leave on Emirates EK150 for Cape Town via Dubai.
We have the photo ready for the pilot.
Piers and Lin
from the virtual saloon of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
Beaucette Marina
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
Red Pepper Sauce. Rich, thick, looks brilliant and tastes even better click to enlargeThe colour is vibrant and the taste is so pure.
As we continue to search for the beauty of flavour simplicity, we’ve honed this recipe to produce a sauce that’s one of the most beautiful to look at, let alone a tasting delight.
Ingredients
10 medium size red peppers
Unsalted butter
Pinch of salt
Just a tiny bit (thimbleful?) of veg stock
Maybe, just maybe, a drop or two of organic maple syrup
Preparation
Cut the peppers into quarters and remove all traces of the white bits and seeds.
Brush with a small amount of light olive oil on both sides, and place them on a baking sheet in a roasting tray, skin down.
Put the tray on the middle shelf of an oven at 180C.
After 20 mins or so when the peppers are cooked, remove and place the quarters in a poly bag to sweat a while.
One by one, take them out and remove the black bits, only. Be careful not to lose any of the juices.When cooked, remove the peppers from the oven click to enlargePlace the juices and peppers into a liquidiser and liquidise well. You may find the liquidiser struggles given there’s minimal liquid. If this happens, shake it about. If this doesn’t help, add a thimbleful of vegetable stock.
Sieve through a ‘normal’ sieve using the back of a spoon to force the liquid through.
Liquidise again, adding just a pinch of salt and reasonable lump of unsalted butter to create a rich mousse.
Maple syrup?
If, and it’s a big if, you find the sauce to be slightly bitter, add a drop or two of maple syrup. A slight bitterness tends to be caused by the type of pepper and the time of year. Smaller peppers are sweeter than large.
Removing the skins
This is a question we’re often asked. The answer is simple.
Removing the skins,
is a fiddly and time consuming job, and never 100% successful.
removing the skins also removes some of the gorgeous oils
…so keep the skins and let the sieve remove them!
Piers and Lin
from the galley of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
Beaucette Marina
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
Toby and Amy, three weeks before they marry click to enlargeToby, our youngest son (yet he’s 28 years old) is marrying Amy on April 19 in South Africa.
And we’ll be there!
Game Reserve
Since becoming engaged in April last year, Amy has gained a law degree and Toby has expanded his marine businesses. We are so proud of them.
Toby and Amy, well, Amy mostly, have planned their marriage in a game reserve near KwaZulu Natal near Durban.
Given the distance to South Africa, many family members and friends are unable to attend, so Toby and Amy have planned a celebration party in the UK in July which will be simply marvellous.
Travel plans
Neither Lin nor I have been to South Africa so we’re really excited. We’ll be making the best of the time, exploring Cape Town, the Garden Route to Port Elizabeth, Durban and Johannesburg.
During the last week, I’ll be visiting some schools on behalf of Double First Ltd.
Captain Nick
Whilst away from Play d’eau, Captain Nick will be looking after her, checking warps, power supplies, and generally stroking her to make sure she feels loved…
Piers
from the packing cabin of Play d’eau
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
I removed the water filter which looked reasonably clear to me click to enlargeFor some time, Play d’eau’s domestic water pressure had been reducing. And now there were times when the taps ran dry before slowly starting to run again.
Not very helpful when you’re in the middle of washing your hair.
Where oh where?
Drawing on my long forgotten schoolboy ‘A level’ Physics, I assembled the facts.
The water tanks were full; the Headhunter X-Caliber pump was set to its maximum power (500 watts); the cut-in pressure was at its highest setting; all isolation valves were open; and the water strainer was clear.
Watching the accumulator pressure gauge, it would rise when the pump ran, only to fall slowly when the pump stopped. Hmmm.
Analysis
Being quick and feeling proud of myself I came to the conclusion there had to be a leak. Yet finding no evidence I went back to the drawing board.
Then it dawned on me. There had to be a non-return valve to prevent pressurised water being forced back to the water tanks. This valve had to be faulty.
I found it. It was called a ‘check-valve’ and mounted on the inlet to the Headhunter. I felt so proud of myself – again.
I changed it with my spare and fired up the pump, full of excitement.
Un-manly
…but the filter was the culprit click to enlargeNo change. Same problem. My high expectations of success were dashed. I thought I’d been a genius. I hadn’t. I went and stood in the corner.
Being un-manly, I started to read the instruction book. The troubleshooting guide advised to change the check-valve. Really helpful.
I emailed the manufacturer.
Pressure tune-up
By return I received a ‘Pressure Tune-up’ guide. Stage 1 was to check any in-line filter. Apparently a blocked filter would exhibit the exact symptoms we were experiencing.
Now why didn’t I think of that? I’d checked the strainer but not the filter. Although it looked reasonably clean to me, I changed it.
Success.
Back to the man-cave
So how much time had I wasted? How much easier would it have been if I’d contacted the manufacturer in the first place? Don’t ask. Don’t even think it.
Back to my man-cave to hide and consider my future as ship’s engineer.
Piers
from the man-cave of play d’eau
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
These were the voyages of Piers and Lin du Pré aboard their Fleming 55
