Tag Archives: Paimpol

Leg 24 – Paimpol to St Helier – 21 September 2013

We left Paimpol’s harbour
and motored east along the narrow channel
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With fresh croissants from Le Fournil du Port collected by Lin and safely stowed in the galley (away from Piers), and the water tanks refilled (we don’t like Jersey’s desalinated water), we lit the fires and cast off ending our delightful nine day stay in this glorious Brittany port.

Exiting the lock, we waved goodbye to the lock-keeper, headed out of the harbour and into the long, narrow channel.

The weather

After days and days of high winds that kept us safely tucked up in Paimpol’s Basin 1, today’s wind was almost non-existent. It was so calm, registering a gust maximum of 0.26kts on Play d’eau’s instruments.

OK, the sky was full of murky cloud but there was no rain and the temperature was ‘good to go’. So we did.

Pinch points

We threaded our way through the Chenal Saint-Rion
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The controlling pinch point was the opening time of the lock to exit Paimol giving us a departure time of 0845. Given this, we’d arrive at St Helier at low tide when there’d be insufficient water to enter the marina so we’d have to stay a while on their waiting pontoon, just outside. Not a problem.

Tide Plan 2

The longest leg is 32.7nm. For this, we’d use Tide Plan 2, a software which plans a constant heading to steer between waypoints, ensuring the tidal flow is put to best advantage (or least disadvantage) giving the best time on the leg.

Note: the software can be downloaded for trial, free of charge, from CompassCard.

The nav plan

The hard to starboard turn into La Collette
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Seeing we’d leave at the top of an 11m spring tide, we decided to pilot Play d’eau through the Chenal Saint-Rion regaining our planned track 0.4nm east of the Ar Bonn Krenv ECM. From there we’d motor north until clearing the Plateau des Échaudés before heading ENE for Jersey via the Danger Rock Passage and Green Rock SHM.

The journey

Piloting through the Chenal Saint-Rion was fun. The spring tide was having a ball, dancing a Viennese waltz around the small islands and rocky seabed, its turning and swirling causing the autopilot to work overtime to keep us on track whilst coping with an additional 3.7kts of tide.

Arriving at the Nord Horaine NCM, we set the autopilot to Tide Plan’s calculated heading of 077 (T) for our next waypoint just south of Les Grunes Vaudin on Danger Rock Passage.

The Furuno NN3D chart plotter
recorded our arrival into La Collette
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For the next few hours we had a calm sea with a lazy 1m swell from behind created by the many lows that had been playing in the Atlantic for the last week or so.

Arriving

TidePlan 2 had done a reasonable job, putting us back on track just 2nm before the waypoint. It was now low tide, giving us just 1m above chart datum.

Calling St Helier marina we were told there was Dragon Boat racing in the main harbour and that we’d have to pull into the adjacent La Collette harbour and wait on D pontoon. ‘Follow the dory,’ was the Harbour Master’s advice. ‘It’s a very low spring tide and the channel to the pontoons is narrow.’ Shades of Paimpol, I wondered? At one stage Play d’eau only had 60cms beneath her keel.

It would be 2½hrs before we could leave and motor the half mile to the St Helier marina. We used the time to give Play d’eau a bath, reset clocks to UK time and change SIMs on our mobiles.

Whilst we paused for a few moments to have some hot chocolate, we looked at each other and said, ‘Nearly home.’

The tecky details

After a two hours we cast off from La Collette
and arrived at St Helier marina at 1745
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Departed Paimpol – 0845 (French)
Arrived La Collette – 1515 (UK)
Time on passage – 8hr 30min
Total planned distance – 47.5nm
Tide: Top of springs
Longest leg – 32.7nm Nord Horaine NCM to

Tech issues – nil

Incidents – nil

Navigational info: The approach into La Collette requires a hard turn to starboard to go between the mole and the PHM. Track close to the fishing boats to starboard before heading to the pontoons to port.

Now, where’s Woolly Mammoth?

Piers and Lin
From the Pilot House of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.

It was so calm
Piers began doing the housekeeping…
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…whilst Captain Lin
took her position in the driving seat
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The 32.7nm leg
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TidePlan 2
restored us on track just 2nm before the waypoint
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Paimpol – our extended stay

Play d’eau
waking up as dawn is about to break
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Although we’ve loved being in Paimpol, a weather window is opening to allow us to escape to St Helier, Jersey, after 9 days here.

We had wanted to visit Binic first, but given the delay from high winds we’ve had to miss that part of our plan.

Paimpol

Paimpol is such a beautiful, small old Brittany town, built around its original granite harbour from which many sailing trawlers crossed the Atlantic to fish for cod off the Newfoundland’s Grand Banks.

The harbour remains a fishing port yet today’s trawlers have swapped sails for engines, salt for refrigerators, and only venture a few miles out to sea. In addition, the Port de Plaisance accommodates over 330 yachts, with more available in Basin 1.

The marina’s wi-fi didn’t reach the corner of Bassin 1 where we were moored. So we picked up our ‘ordinateurs’ and walked along the line of many cafés and restaurants on the harbour front, all advertising free wi-fi.

A line of trawlers stretched out behind us
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One told us we could use their wi-fi if we ordered a meal. ‘Non,’ I replied. The next, Quai Quest, welcomed us, gave us their access code and found us a good place. With no demand for us to order anything, we ordered deux chocolat chaud – grand.

Having to cope with a large back log of emails we went on to order lunch – and what a great meal. The first course was slices of goat’s cheese on small crispy bread, served on shreds of lettuce with a honey dressing and walnut pieces. Sheer delight. We were so pleased we didn’t give our patronage to the previous restaurant.

We used their wi-fi so often, we had dinner there one evening. Again, it was excellent food and at a very reasonable price. Not a tourist in site – that said something.

Farmers’ market

Yes, there’s a regular farmers’ market on Tuesdays, and as with others we’ve seen, it’s vast. The selection of foods let alone the varieties on offer, sparks the imagination and makes shopping such a joy.

The tide recedes for over three miles leaving soft mud. The channel is narrow and you need to stay on the centreline
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Makes you wonder how well a market stall full of pre-packaged, pre-prepared, pre-cooked, chemically enhanced, food reconstructed, GM modified ‘meals’ would survive.

In contrast, how great it was to buy unpasteurised cream, spooned out of an open large tub from the dairy farmer’s stall.

The tides

Paimpol is approached along a long, narrowing channel, and until you’ve seen what happens to the sea after the tide’s drained it all away, it’s hard to imagine just how dry and narrow it becomes.

Looking back along the channel from the shore at low water makes you realise how vital it is to stay between the markers for the last half mile especially, unless you want to feature in the next edition of the local paper – and the UK magazine Motor Boats Monthly!

Play d’eau’s Departure from Paimpol

Looking from the lock gates to the harbour entrance
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The plan is to leave Paimpol on Saturday 21 September for St Helier, Jersey, where we’ll meet Graham and Frances of Woolly Mammoth and have a meal at Shaun Rankin’s new restaurant, Ormer.

Needing to be back in Guernsey for 29 September, we’ll probably leave on the 26th, weather dependent.

Piers and Lin
From the Pilot House of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.

The winner of the 2013 Croissant competition

Le Fournil du Port, Paimpol.
This boulangerie produced the winning croissant
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We can now declare the winner of the Play d’eau Croissant Competition 2013.

Having cruised the beautiful coasts of north and west France and their hidden treasures of marinas for the last three months, we’ve tasted croissants in 22 ports from 31 boulangeries.

And the winner is…

‘Le Fournil du Port’ at Paimpol, north Brittany.

The margin by which Le Fournil won was considerable. In all criteria their croissants scored the highest.

To prove it wasn’t a baking fluke and that Le Fournil’s croissants consistently rose crisply to the challenge, we tried croissants from Le Fournil on five occasions.

Le Fournil is at the south end of Paimpol’s Bassin No 1.

Running order…

The first bite of the winning croissant
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The final running order was:

1st place (€0.88) – Le Fournil du Port, Paimpol
2nd place (€0.90) – Boulangerie Denigot, Port Louis, Lorient
3rd place (€0.95) – Boulangerie Founesant la Forêt, Port la Forêt
4th place (€0.23) – LIDL, Rochefort (yes, only 23 centimes)

Judging criteria

The judging criteria has been the same all along,

  • Does it look good?
  • As you bite, is the outside crispy?
  • Is it buttery?
  • Is the inside light, fresh and soft?
  • Do you glow with croissant pleasure?

Although the price was noted, it was not included as one of the criteria.

Was the inside light, fresh and soft?
click to enlarge

One question remains. How can we have hot, fresh supplies from Paimpol to Beaucette in time for breakfast?

Piers and Lin
From the Galley of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55

You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.