After 21 years we’re back in Carentan on the Normandy coast. I was first here with the MBM Cruise in Company fleet in the mid-1970s (can anyone remember those days?) and then with the family in 1997.

But seeing the mile long yet narrow marina now, I just wonder if it’s become a forgotten destination?

Fat, rolly, polly seals

The 8 mile approach from the fairway buoy through the estuary and along the river is just gorgeous. Hundreds of fat seals basking on the beach and flock after flock of birds flying up from the wetlands. Approaching the end of the river you see the lock which opens HW-2 to HW+3.

And here’s the ‘but’. After 21 years the marina doesn’t seem to have changed. Same old bouncy pontoons mostly covered in gull and duck pooh, same old 5A power supply in lichen blackened boxes, looking dowdy and unkept.

Yes, there’s a new-ish Capitainerie and shower block (water is somewhat tepid) and a Brasserie but it’s shut for the summer hols. A number of boats seem to have been left to die, covered in green and unloved.

Far from the madding crowd

What is so, so lovely, is the peace and tranquility. Just perfect for being and unwinding. Apart from Play d’eau, there are no visiting boats and no-one working on their boats. It’s as though it’s a ghost marina.

Walking into the small town with its large 12c church. Again, it’s so quiet. So few people around. Some modern buildings have been shouldered in amongst the old, architecturally more beautiful buildings, many of them shut down and up for sale. From what we’ve seen, there are hairdressers, opticians, pharmacies, clothing shops, but only one small supermarket, two boulangeries (the third is up for sale), one butcher and one ironmonger.

On the other hand, there’s a new indoor swimming pool complex and a separate small sports centre, but neither seem really used – good use of EU money?

Duck a l’orange?

As I’ve said, what we love about the marina is the peace. It’s so, so quiet. No visitors. Only dozens of really vociferous ducks. What if we fed them with oranges? Would they be marinaded ready for the pot?

Having met our Carentan goal we’re undecided on ‘where next?’

Maybe we’ll head back around the Cherbourg peninsula to the north coast of Brittany which we love.

Piers and Lin
from the Saloon of
Play d’eau
Fleming 55