Another spectacular sunrise light show click to enlargeEven though we’d had a somewhat tiresome passage yesterday, it had been unexpectedly rewarded by the second best dinner we’ve had whilst on holiday this year.
If ever there’s a reason to visit Camaret, it’s the Restaurant of the small Hotel Vauban.
Although tired, we felt back on form.
Go or no go?
With the morning’s forecast and actuals to hand, we plotted our next move over an early morning coffee (tea for Lin).
All looked good apart from a tight frontal system swirling around the peninsula, yet being so tight it was unlikely to present strong winds apart from isolated downdraughts and showers, maybe heavy, from any lurking cumulus cloud.
We made the decision to go.
Black skies
Against the black clouds, the sunlight was breathtaking click to enlargeAs dawn approached, the sky to the east was clear apart from a narrow roll of cloud just above the distant horizon. In comparison, the fronts had covered the sky to the west with thick, black ominous cloud.
As the sun rose she found a small letterbox gap between the land and the cloud through which she beamed, creating rainbows and a glorious show of bright light.
With an ETD of 0900, we prepared for departure and cast off after a breakfast of French Bread (eggy bread fried in bacon fat – yummy) and coffee (tea for Lin).
Thankfully, yesterday’s swell had completely disappeared. Had it been scared off by Play d’eau’s wrath? The land protected us from an easterly force 3 wind and the transit through the Chenal du Four was yet again, placid.
L’Aber Wrac’h or…?
Nearing the turn towards l’Aber Wrac’h we wondered if we should continue straight to Roscoff. The seas were comfortable, the wind had dropped to a light southerly force 2 and the sun had chased the cloud away. What could be better?
We did.
Nearing Roscoff
Yacht Meander en route to Ushant as we passed l’Aber Wrac’h click to enlargeNearing Roscoff, the narrow channel between the Île de Batz and the mainland can look narrow and daunting with short changes of heading to avoid the many rocky outcrops. But provided you have understood the transits it’s really straight forward and good fun.
The many ferries and trawlers which use this channel are helpful and help by making way.
Calling Bloscon marina on channel 09, we were met at the entrance and guided to the hammerhead of pontoon A.
Date: 7 August 2015
Departed Camaret: 0903
Arrived Roscoff: 1725
Pinchpoint: Chenal du Four
Longest leg: 16.2nm
Time en route: 8hr 20min
Planned distance: 61.8nm
Tech issues: None.
Piers and Lin
from the Pilot House of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
(click on the photos below to enlarge, and use the left/right arrows)
The day we left, the dawn sun was glowing through the milky cloud click to enlargePlease excuse the lack of photos in this posting – read on and you’ll see why.
We’ve never, ever been in such threatening seas.
Leaving Sainte Marine under a grey and cloudy sky, we headed south with a calm wind onto a flat sea, amongst many yachts. Soon we were heading into a slow, smooth swell which I have to say was rather enjoyable, even soothing.
‘The remnant of yesterday’s swell,’ I said knowingly to Lin.
Before I continue with the story, please excuse the lack of photos. The seas made it almost impossible to take any.
Penmarc’h Peninsula
Turning west to start the long passage around the Penmarc’h Peninsula we were joined by two 14m Dutch yachts out of Port Loctudy, forming a 7½kts cruise in company.
As the swell slowly increased, Lin retired to the saloon to take a Kwell and lie down. Having been in worse conditions around Start Point and Le Cap de la Hague, I was happy to continue. The positive was that the wind remained calm.
At least we had two yachts keeping Play d’eau company for encouragement.
When to abort?
As we were leaving, Yacht Popoff came in. Great name… click to enlargeAfter an hour our companion yachts were half disappearing in the troughs and I was at the point of making the decision to abort and return to Sainte Marine. The swell was now a fairly steep 4 metres.
The issue, though, was how to turn around? Crest to crest was far less than my turning circle and I certainly didn’t want to present Play d’eau broadside to this swell during a turn.
I tussled in my mind. Can it really get much worse? The wind was still calm and the yachts were still with us.
Turning NW
Reaching the westerly point of the Peninsula, the swell was at its worst. By now the yachts and their masts were disappearing in the troughs leaving only their VHF antennas visible. Quite a sight to behold. But I’d be telling an untruth if I said I was enjoying it.
Heading north west for the Raz de Sein, the first encouraging sign was the cloud clearing and the sun coming out. The second encouraging sign was the wind staying calm. The third encouraging sign was that the swell slowly, very slowly, starting to subside.
It took two hours before the swell had settled back to its initial gentle, acceptable rhythm and with no wind, the sea was quite glassy yet at times it looked as though it would shiver and come out in goose bumps. A strange sight.Play d’eau motored out of Sainte Marine amongst a procession of departing yachts click to enlargeLater, Lin told me that when she’d woken, she’d looked out of the saloon windows, seen the sea towering above her at which point she decided denial was the best reality, closed her eyes and went back to sleep.
We mused whether a Kwell thrown into the sea would help have settled it. Maybe not.
Raz de Sein
The plan had been to enter the Raz at slack. Annoyingly, the tide turned some 30 minutes before the Admiralty tide tables and pilot books stated. More lumpy seas? Pah! Used to them now.
Ten yachts and Play d’eau converged on the Raz, yet I have to say that the transit itself was a bit of a non-event.
(Note to self: Remember the 30 minute tidal error error for next time)
Last leg
It took two hours to cross the Baie de Morgat before we arrived in Camaret where we took the last parking slot. We were both somewhat weary.
Two trip highlights
During the last four hours, four separate pods of dolphins came to play with Play d’eau. A wonder to behold and a thankful distraction.
A sunfish with its fin flopping side to side in the air, passed just a few feet away from us. It rolled slightly on its side so we could see eye to eye almost as though it wanted to say something.
Dinner out
The final highlight was dinner. Being so tired, we walked to the nearby Restaurant of the small Hotel Vauban where we ordered large pressions whilst looking at the short menu. Piers chose Melon Soup followed by Mackerel whilst Lin chose baked camembert with honey followed by moules.
Every moment spent waiting to be served was worth it. Each of the dishes was inspired, unexpected and obviously cooked fresh. This chef loves cooking!
A great way to end an ‘interesting’ day’s cruising.
Met data
Sainte Marine: Calm, cloudy, good.
Forecast sea state: Calm, with a slight swell.
Reality: An horendous swell.
Camaret: Calm, clear, good
Nav data
Times are FST.
Date: 6 August 2015
Departed Sainte Marina: 1005
Arrived Camaret: 1720
Pinchpoint: Raz de Sein
Longest leg: 22.3nm
Time en route: 7hr 15min
Planned distance: 57.1nm
Tech issues: None.
Piers and Lin
from the Pilot House of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
These were the voyages of Piers and Lin du Pré aboard their Fleming 55
