Play d’eau waking up as dawn is about to break click to enlargeAlthough we’ve loved being in Paimpol, a weather window is opening to allow us to escape to St Helier, Jersey, after 9 days here.
We had wanted to visit Binic first, but given the delay from high winds we’ve had to miss that part of our plan.
Paimpol
Paimpol is such a beautiful, small old Brittany town, built around its original granite harbour from which many sailing trawlers crossed the Atlantic to fish for cod off the Newfoundland’s Grand Banks.
The harbour remains a fishing port yet today’s trawlers have swapped sails for engines, salt for refrigerators, and only venture a few miles out to sea. In addition, the Port de Plaisance accommodates over 330 yachts, with more available in Basin 1.
The marina’s wi-fi didn’t reach the corner of Bassin 1 where we were moored. So we picked up our ‘ordinateurs’ and walked along the line of many cafés and restaurants on the harbour front, all advertising free wi-fi.A line of trawlers stretched out behind us click to enlargeOne told us we could use their wi-fi if we ordered a meal. ‘Non,’ I replied. The next, Quai Quest, welcomed us, gave us their access code and found us a good place. With no demand for us to order anything, we ordered deux chocolat chaud – grand.
Having to cope with a large back log of emails we went on to order lunch – and what a great meal. The first course was slices of goat’s cheese on small crispy bread, served on shreds of lettuce with a honey dressing and walnut pieces. Sheer delight. We were so pleased we didn’t give our patronage to the previous restaurant.
We used their wi-fi so often, we had dinner there one evening. Again, it was excellent food and at a very reasonable price. Not a tourist in site – that said something.
Farmers’ market
Yes, there’s a regular farmers’ market on Tuesdays, and as with others we’ve seen, it’s vast. The selection of foods let alone the varieties on offer, sparks the imagination and makes shopping such a joy.The tide recedes for over three miles leaving soft mud. The channel is narrow and you need to stay on the centreline click to enlargeMakes you wonder how well a market stall full of pre-packaged, pre-prepared, pre-cooked, chemically enhanced, food reconstructed, GM modified ‘meals’ would survive.
In contrast, how great it was to buy unpasteurised cream, spooned out of an open large tub from the dairy farmer’s stall.
The tides
Paimpol is approached along a long, narrowing channel, and until you’ve seen what happens to the sea after the tide’s drained it all away, it’s hard to imagine just how dry and narrow it becomes.
Looking back along the channel from the shore at low water makes you realise how vital it is to stay between the markers for the last half mile especially, unless you want to feature in the next edition of the local paper – and the UK magazine Motor Boats Monthly!
Play d’eau’s Departure from Paimpol
Looking from the lock gates to the harbour entrance click to enlargeThe plan is to leave Paimpol on Saturday 21 September for St Helier, Jersey, where we’ll meet Graham and Frances of Woolly Mammoth and have a meal at Shaun Rankin’s new restaurant, Ormer.
Needing to be back in Guernsey for 29 September, we’ll probably leave on the 26th, weather dependent.
Piers and Lin
From the Pilot House of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
Treguier, on the north coast of Brittany, was founded in the sixth century and still has many ancient buildings click to enlargeUpdate 3 November 2017
Jean-Jacques Furet, Harbour Master, Treguier, has pointed out some major marina improvements to the following report I made in 2013. Please read his comments which are almost at the bottom of this page.
Report dated 11 September 2013
Tréguier, on the north coast of Brittany, is one of our favourite places in which to while away a few days absorbing the beauty and stillness of a river marina and walking around the small town with its many ancient buildings dating back to the sixth century.
Hot chocolate (large) in the square sitting opposite the 14th century cathedral is de rigueur as one contemplates the difficult decision of which boulangerie to choose for your next supply of croissants.
So what was wrong with the old marina?
In a strange way, the ‘oldness’ and ‘unkemptness’ of the pontoons was one of Tréguier’s attractions. You felt something of an explorer visiting a little known and hidden away marina.
Yet, the ravages of years had taken its toll. Piles were rusted through becoming a lattice-work of holes joined by flakes of rust. Fingers were too small, too flimsy and insubstantial for many visitors and stories of fingers breaking away drifting downriver complete with yacht attached can still be heard on the jungle drums.The cathedral in Treguier’s square click to enlargeDespite these inadequacies, visiting boaters kept returning, the beauty of tucked away Tréguier more than compensating for the marina risks.
That’s precisely why we kept coming back with Play d’eau, mooring up to the first or second hammerhead with its desperately suspect fingers, but having heard the distant jungle drums we would run additional warps stretching to more secure points back along the main pontoon.
So what’s new – what’s changed?
Major work has been carried out over the last year of so to revamp the marina. For example,
Every pile has been replaced.
Every piece of rotten and bent pontoon boarding has been replaced.
The Capitainerie’s office is new and in the marina building opposite Pontoon E’s walkway
Video surveillance is throughout the marina
The bar and marina restaurant (Le Pontoon) has had a facelift and serves good food.
…and for the arriving boater,
The first pontoon (E) now has a very substantial 30m x 2.5m pontoon in place of its old hammerhead.
Eight new and substantial 10m fingers have been installed on the north side of E.
The first three pontoons (E, D, C) offer the visitor berths.
A new 30m hammerhead on pontoon E. Remember to have your fenders set high. Play d’eau looks dwarfed! click to enlarge
55 visitor berths accommodate boats lengths up to approximately 15m max.
Visitor berths have 16A electricity supplies and water
Visitors can reserve a berth by calling the HM on his mobile 0033 (0) 6 72 70 70 20
Tréguier Marina
Tréguier marina is 5nm up the beautiful Rivre de Tréguier which has some lovely and protected places in which to anchor.
42nm to the west is Roscoff, 53nm NE will find you in Beaucette Marina Guernsey, to the east by 28nm is Paimpol and St Malo at 58nm, whilst Plymouth is 100nm to the NNW.
Access to the marina is 24/7, regardless of tide. Speed limits are 5kts reducing to 3kts in the marina. Along the river you’ll pass fish and shell fish farms and I’d advise keeping speed back to 3kts even if just to keep people happy.The Capitainerie is in the main building opposite Pontoon E’s walkway click to enlargeWi-Fi is free from Netabord. If you don’t already have a code, ask at the HM’s office and car hire and taxis can be arranged through the HM office as well.
Diesel is available from the N side of pontoon E, limited from HW slack to LW slack, but not during the flood tide.
The private firms which have been operating by the marina for many years all appear to have grown and offer just about every facility you may need. Lift out (21 tonne max), mechanics, GRP work, as well as considerable amounts of storage ashore, either covered in large sheds or out on the hard standing.
The ancient three floored chandlery just over the bridge has had an extension built and every nook and cranny of the whole building bulges with chandlery and clothing. I don’t recall having seen such an vast array of boaty bits in one place.
Lin and I spent ages just looking, whilst the smell of tarred twine evoked childhood memories of looking around Jersey’s St Aubin’s chandlery with Dad in the late 1950s and early 1960s, and before you say it, yes, I’ve recently qualified for my old age pension….
Provisioning
The chandlery ‘over the bridge’ bulges with equipment from floor to ceiling – literally click to enlargeThere’s a huge farmers’ market on Wednesdays from 0900-1300, every week of the year, which stretches from the marina hardstanding right up into the town’s square. As someone has previously commented, you can buy anything from a day old chicken to a ten year old Calvados.
As well as the many shops in the square, I’m told there’s a Super-U on Boulevard Jean Guehenno, up the steepish hill from the Pont Canada roundabout about 1.6km SW of the marina. Walking back down the hill is much easier of course!
Le Ponton – the Marina’s bar and restaurant
After a period of absence, the marina restaurant is back up and running with a clever ‘pirate’ décor which we have to admit, is really well done.
Our first meal at Le Ponton was capped off by a glass of Venezuelan rum which the Chef Proprietor M. Porgré-gilles, presented to Piers. With rum as Piers favourite tipple, he was surprised by its richness and elegance and promptly bought a bottle the next day. How long it will last is another question altogether.
You can reserve a table by calling – 0033 (2) 96 92 41 08.
Three words of caution
The first and third SHMs are lit. The second, which reaches into the channel, isn’t. More than one yacht has hit it on approach at night click to enlargeThe first regards the final approach to the marina for which there are three green SHMs. The first and last are lit. The middle isn’t. If you follow the line between the first and third green at night, you’ll probably hit the middle SHM since it’s bang (literally) in your way in the channel.
A visiting yacht had done just that when we arrived and was having its bows repaired where the GPR had been damaged.
The second concerns the tidal flow which can move through the pontoons just as quickly, if not quicker, than that at Roscoff. It’s emphasised by the HM that mooring should only ever be attempted into the current.
The third concerns the debris the river picks up especially at spring tide and which can so easily foul your sterngear. Always check all is clear before casting off – it can save a good deal of embarrassment – see the photo below.
Our thanks for much of this information must go to HM, David Peron, who speaks such good English.
Piers and Lin
from the Nav table of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form.
Spring tides wash debris down river. The HM is towing a 25′ tree trunk found wedged across the transom of a yacht click to enlarge
The flood and ebb tides are very strong and flow through the pontoons diagonally. Always moor into the current click to enlarge
Low tide at the marina makes it a challenge to climb the walkways click to enlarge
At high tide walkways are easy click to enlarge
The chandlery is bursting at the seams from floor to ceiling – literally click to enlarge
The magnificent chandlery is just over the Treguier’s bridge click to enlarge
Roscoff’s Bloscon marina. The commercial port and marina entrance are on the left of the picture click to enlargeReport dated: 6 September 2013
Bloscon is already a great marina, and next year will be simply superb. Here’s why.
An interview with M. Frédérie Boccou, Maître du Port
Frédérie spent forty minutes with me unravelling the creation of the Bloscon complex, and detailed the next and last developments to bring the marina to completion by May 2014.
The vision was that for €52m, Roscoff’s ferry and fishing ports would be expanded and modernised, and a new marina created.
Roscoff’s Bloscon marina is perfectly located on the north coast of Brittany. It’s 15nm from Trébeurden to the east. To the west it’s 34nm from L’Aber Wrac’h and 67nm from Brest. To the north, it’s 95nm from Plymouth and 75nm from the popular Beaucette Marina, Guernsey.M. Frédérie Boccou, Maître du Port, Roscoff click to enlargeAs well as being an ideal transit marina, a growing number of British owners are locating their boats to Bloscon permanently to save Channel crossings and marina fees; there’s so much to explore along the north coast, and for the more adventurous Brittany’s inviting west coast beckons, strongly.
Roscoff – a small town of character
The small town of Roscoff is a mile away. Its ancient buildings and small one way roads are a delight and restaurants, créperies, boulangeries (fresh croissants galore!), and small hotels abound.
Food ingredients are mainly available from the two out of town supermarkets. However, for those in Roscoff on a Wednesday morning, there’s a comprehensive farmers’ market.
Bloscon marina details – today
Marina staff are on the water in their RIBs from 0700 to 2100 click to enlargeBloscon marina’s telephone number is 0033 (0) 2 98 79 79 49. All staff are fluent in English and extremely helpful. Note: Reeds Nautical Almanac details the wrong telephone number.
Berthing costs are almost the least expensive on the north and west coasts of France, whether visiting or looking for half or full year contracts.
There are 625 berths, plus an additional 45 dedicated for visitors on the south side of pontoon B and north side of pontoon D. Thirteen berths are adapted for those with physical disabilities.
The marina’s minimum depth is 4m, regardless of tide.
Marina buildings currently house a chandlery (mainly selling clothing and fishing tackle and some basic boating items), a sandwich bar from which bread and croissants can be pre-ordered, and car and bicycle hire.
10,000 square metres of hard standing is available for storage ashore and there’s a 20m x 100m slipway to the water.Bloscon’s pontoons have rubbing strakes to protect boats click to enlargeThe marina’s large car park offers free parking.Wi-fi is also free, yet the one aerial which services the marina currently struggles to cope.
A 50 tonne travel hoist is available. The only other hoists of similar or greater lifting capability are at M&G St Sampson’s Guernsey, Jersey, Brest and St Malo.
Pontoons
The 4m wide walkway takes you from the marina buildings down to two main pontoons. The one straight ahead and against the new concrete breakwater is 100m x 4m, and is reserved for large vessels and superyachts. Its electricity supply is both 16A and 32A.
At right angles to this is another 4m wide walkway with two toilet blocks. This pontoon has nine further pontoons, A to I inclusive, all with substantial 12m fingers which are untypically French; they don’t sink when you stand on them – I’ve jump and bounce tested them.The delightful town of Roscoff is full of ancient buildings click to enlargeFingers and pontoons have high impact plastic protective inserts to prevent yacht damage. 16A electricity and water supplies are available to all as are substantial cow-horn cleats.
The service pontoon sports a fuel berth with a 24/7 diesel pump which accepts UK credit cards, an oil disposal unit, and a black tank pump out and flush facility.
Note that water is supplied from the new style connectors now appearing in so many marinas. These adaptors are (thankfully) available for purchase from the HM.
Approach
Just like Jersey’s St Helier marina, the approach to the marina is through the commercial ferry port where international lights control all movements.
The first set controls entry and transit through the commercial area to the marina. The lights are on the north side of the Lemaire commercial breakwater and display green over white over green when ferries are manoeuvring, prohibiting entry.
The second set controls exit from the marina and are at the marina’s entrance by the starboard hand marker. Three reds forbid exit.
Only the marina’s north entrance is to be used. The southern entrance should not be attempted where there are unchartered rocks and shoals. ‘Captain’s own risk,’ as Frédérie said.
In the marina
Alexandre Dumas of the Three Musketeers fame lived here in Roscoff for the summer of 1869 whilst he wrote his chapter on the onion in his Great Dictionary of Cuisine click to enlargeMarina RIBs with 30hp and 70hp outboards are constantly on the water between 0700 and 2100 to help visitors to their berths and ensure the lights are obeyed.
Ahead you will see the pontoons. To your left is a beautiful 570m long breakwater constructed from local pink granite blocks. To your immediate right is the service and superyacht pontoon next to the concrete breakwater.
A small word of warning. It’s been found that at springs, a strong current of 3 to 4 knots runs by the pink granite breakwater. Do not underestimate its effect when manoeuvring between this breakwater and the first berths of the pontoons.
Bloscon marina details – tomorrow (May 2014)
As well as restaurants, chandleries and a supermarket in the marina itself, adjacent separate buildings will house professional marine services, including boat builders, sail loft, engineers and mechanics.
A new HM complex will house marina staff and the yacht club, as well as having toilet and shower facilities.
Wi-Fi is having an additional three aerials installed to overcome the current coverage and connectivity issues.
A lift to the pontoons for those with physical disabilities will be operational.
Completion is on target for May 2014.
Piers and Lin
from the Nav Table of Play d’eau
Fleming 55
You can get in touch with us any time by using our Contact Form. Piers washing Play d’eau. You can just see Irish ferry (behind the pink granite breakwater) which is moored in the commercial port click to enlargeThe exit from Bloscon marina. The three red lights (by the marina’s SHM) are lit indicating manoeuvring in the commercial port and prohibiting exit click to enlarge
These were the voyages of Piers and Lin du Pré aboard their Fleming 55